1991 4Runner Concerns
#1
1991 4Runner Concerns
I recently purchased a 4Runner to use and have since encountered a few issues. Nothing seriously major but wanted to see if anyone knew what I needed to do to fix them or had these problems too. My first problem is the rear window stop working completely shortly after I bought it, with the switch or key. I also have a fair amount of play in the steering wheel. Lastly I have a "rubbing" noise when I turn I think the shocks need to be replaced but wonder if that would cause the noise. Any ideas? Thanks.
#2
With your rear window it probably needs a new motor. The older 4Runner windows aren't very good as far as their design since they do allow water to leak through, causing their motor's to go out quickly. It's a pretty cheap fix and I'm not sure about how to fix the switch, I've found that a lot of people's have gone out quickly and they just choose to modify the center console.
#3
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Do a search for rear windows problems. There are ALOT of threads and a few writes ups on to fix.
As for your sloppy steering, search for that too.....but I would say that your steering box might be loose, but since I've been lucky and not have had those problems, the only advisce I can offer is to search.....
As for your sloppy steering, search for that too.....but I would say that your steering box might be loose, but since I've been lucky and not have had those problems, the only advisce I can offer is to search.....
#4
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The motors are all like that. They get old, water gets in there because of the old failing weather strip on the outside of the tailgate and the relays get tired also. Go see 4crawler's site for more info on the tailgate besides just searching here. I am currently doing bodywork to my 94 which involved taking the tailgate apart because I had a rear window issue also. The right side track rusted away. I also found the wheel on the end of that arm was seized. Dealing with that now by soaking it in a bowl of ATF, oil, PB Blaster, etc. where I soak stuff to free up.
The rubbing noise may be the bump stops that hit the lower A arms when you steer to the end and the steering knuckles hit the arm. Check it out to see if there is rub marks on the lower arms. Add grease to stop it.
The rubbing noise may be the bump stops that hit the lower A arms when you steer to the end and the steering knuckles hit the arm. Check it out to see if there is rub marks on the lower arms. Add grease to stop it.
#5
Anyone know if the 90 4runner 3vze motor is an interference type engine. I think I've lost the timing belt. The interesting thing is the distributor rotor doesn't turn when I roll the crank manually but it turns when I turn over the ignition. This doesn't make sense to me. Not sure what I'm missing here. Any help?
#6
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I have the exact same issues with my 4runner, for the steering deal, I just had to replace a tie rod end/tighten the pitman arm.
As for the window, did it deteriorate gradually or just stop?
mine lost functionality over time, the regulator has gotten gummed up somehow and began catching and wearing on the motor. At this point my motor is almost shot.
As for the window, did it deteriorate gradually or just stop?
mine lost functionality over time, the regulator has gotten gummed up somehow and began catching and wearing on the motor. At this point my motor is almost shot.
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Anyone know if the 90 4runner 3vze motor is an interference type engine. I think I've lost the timing belt. The interesting thing is the distributor rotor doesn't turn when I roll the crank manually but it turns when I turn over the ignition. This doesn't make sense to me. Not sure what I'm missing here. Any help?
#9
Pulled the timing cover and found the timing belt intact but the tensioner bearing disintegrated. The rotor would turn intermittently when the crank was rotated then slip when the tension released. Go figure. Off to buy a new tensioner set and timing belt. Thanks for the help. This site is great with 4 old toyotas on the road presently.
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Pulled the timing cover and found the timing belt intact but the tensioner bearing disintegrated. The rotor would turn intermittently when the crank was rotated then slip when the tension released. Go figure. Off to buy a new tensioner set and timing belt. Thanks for the help. This site is great with 4 old toyotas on the road presently.
#11
water pump is ok but the idler is making a little noise when I turn it by hand. Looks like this may be one unit but I can't tell until I pull it. I just had the timing belt and water pump done about 40K ago. The tensioner just went and probably need to replace all?
#12
Now that the timing belt was slipping, what is the best way to find TDC on the compresion stroke and align the cams. Are the cams ok to just align with the marks or do they take two revolutions like the crank? I would think the smaller crank pulley would go around twice to the cams going around once but nothing is connected now so I can't check. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#13
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mdowning, please start your own thread with your timing belt questions. You've hijacked this thread enough.
To answer though, simply, line up both cams to their TDC marks and the crank to the TDC mark and proceed to installing the new belt.
To answer though, simply, line up both cams to their TDC marks and the crank to the TDC mark and proceed to installing the new belt.
Last edited by rworegon; 11-11-2012 at 09:15 AM.
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Not sure what topic we're on here but for Ol King Cole...
Just swapped a tailgate on my buddies 4Runner and the motor goes up and down when you manually jump the wires but when it's plugged in it would only go down, turned out to be the relay box behind the rear storage compartment on the drivers side. Switched it out for a good one and it solved the problem. You might want to open up the tailgate and verify if the motor works or not first.
Sloppy steering... might be your idler arm on the pass. side, mine was shot and very sloppy. If you grab it and wiggle it and there's any play at all it needs to be replaced.
Just swapped a tailgate on my buddies 4Runner and the motor goes up and down when you manually jump the wires but when it's plugged in it would only go down, turned out to be the relay box behind the rear storage compartment on the drivers side. Switched it out for a good one and it solved the problem. You might want to open up the tailgate and verify if the motor works or not first.
Sloppy steering... might be your idler arm on the pass. side, mine was shot and very sloppy. If you grab it and wiggle it and there's any play at all it needs to be replaced.
Last edited by Nailit69; 11-11-2012 at 06:49 AM.
#15
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OP, check your steering rack bushings for wear by having someone move the steering wheel back and forth while observing the rack. Motion of the entire rack body is bad.
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