knobs

Long story short, had a bad fuel tank and sucked rusty nasty fuel in and clogged my fuel filter, changed tank, ha injectors rebuilt and new plugs. Still started and ran fine before I swapped injectors. Started it after injector swap and it runs great. I started It again after the swap and it took roughly 25 sec of cranking to start and I've it a code 41 for the tps. Tested it, it was bad, swapped it, still bad, checked pump by jumping the test terminals, fine, tested it in crank position, fine. Swapped afm, wasn't it. I've to no fuel leaks no air leaks, checked an double checked vacuum lines, all correct orientation. When it starts it runs perfect. I'm at wits end and need a little input! Any would be great, thanks

Gamefreakgc

TPS wouldn't keep the truck from starting. You can adjust it by turning it slightly but you have to do it right per the FSM: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34throttle.pdf.

Sounds like to me you have a fuel leak. My truck has taken that long twice... once when I did a valve adjustment and when I swapped my injectors for Flamethrowers (sorry you didn't get that memo when you had yours apart, they are awesome and cheaper than getting old ones reman'd). That's because my fuel lines were completely empty.

You have an 88, so your diagnostic port for the fuel pump looks like this (minus the wire)



Turn the key to "ON" but don't start or crank the engine. Jump it using spare wire or a paperclip or something and you should hear the fuel pump turn on. Give it 30-40 seconds and start the engine. If it starts immediately, you've got a leak in your fuel line somewhere. Did you replace the copper gaskets when you did your injectors or reuse them ?

Keep the jumper in and let it run for a while. Use your fuel vapor detection sensor, also known as your nose, and find the leak. Follow the lines from the tank all the way to the injectors, look for moisture and that distinct fuel smell. This is best done on a cold engine so you don't have any other leaks/smells competing for your attention.

knobs

Wow great reply! I actually did that and checked for fuel leaks, but my thought also was that since its positive pressure from the tank forward that a leak would be really obvious? I definitely smelled gas under the good though but couldn't see anything, nothing loose, no cracks, no splits. Nothing. Now what you said about the injector coppers, that's making me wonder..... I don't remember if I reused or if I used the new ones!!!

Gamefreakgc

Wait, you know there's a fuel leak? Yikes! I'd buy a fire extinguisher the next time you head out...

Just run the pump long enough and you'll find it. I can't say for sure where it is but the washers on the fuel rail are a common mistake. Also, make sure you tightened them to spec since they are crush washers. Not enough pressure and the soft copper won't mold to the rail and will have gaps for fuel to get through (and fuel is very thin, excellent at escaping through small gaps). If you tried the reuse them, you have to get them EXACTLY how they were before. Switching the washers around or flipping the wrong way could also cause a leak.

It could also be a mis-aligned O-ring on the injectors. Did you see if they twist back and forth fine before tighening down the fuel rails? Did you re-use any old O-rings (I'm hoping the place that did your injectors sent you new ones)?