oswin

Hi everyone, im new to yota tech and have already become obsessed with the site... love it... I brought my 2nd toyota project last summer and have been working on it to get it ready to roll in the spring.. The question i have is i have to correct the axle housing angle on the front, i have 35s and i think a 3 inch lift.. Obviously a high pinion third would be best but what are peoples thoughts on adding wedges to twist the axle housing up a bit...
thanks

JonnyBoy

Wedges/pinion angle shims, whatever you wanna call them, are ok for the rear, but in the front it'll ruin your caster angle and make your steering feel off. Having not experienced it myself with a sfa truck, I don't know for sure, but I've heard it will increase the likelihood of death wobble and reduce your turning radius. Others may chime in with more specifics, but I know it's not a good idea.
If you only have a 3" lift I don't think your front driveline will be that angled to need any correction, either.

oswin

thanks, yeah ive heard that about shims in the front, it is used on the road abit so want to avoid the death wobble... Im not actually sure on the lift height, it was on the truck when i got it, the truck was an unfinished project with a mint 86 frame with sas, that was the reason i grabbed it as its hard to find good frames with a solid front axle up here in canada!! How would i determind my lift height, do i measure the spring length or perhaps shock lengh.. My u-joint looks like it could bind when articulated. im just wondering if there is a decent alternative to a high pinion set up...

xxxtreme22r

Driveshaft angle does not equal pinion angle. Took me a while to understand that concept and people explaining it to me 50 times before I got it.

For example, tilting the diff up can mess up your pinion angle and can cause more vibration then originally intended. IMO pinion angle is more important then driveline angle. Proper way to fix driveline angle is a double cardan joint or longer wheelbase.

Good read: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml

oswin

double cardon!! makes sense... yes ive been on the 4crawler website.. thats where i was looking at getting my shims..

xxxtreme22r

Won't need shims if the pinions are parallel. What you are worried about sounds like driveline angle.

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Good info XXX, When I saw this, my jaw hit the floor, I am getting ready for a complete under the truck over haul/SAS and had planned on running the diff parallel with a hi-steer long spline front d-shaft and double cardan to try and eliminate vibration. Almost thought I was going to have to do something with the diff, as I don't have Hi-Pinion diffs...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Done tons of Toyotas and never used a front high pinion or shims. No need for either if setup right and using other options that give you more wheelability, like dual cases.

:wabbit2:

oswin

xxx, i must mean drive shaft agles then. My pinions are parrallel, my driveshaft has a double cardon but the u-joint at the diff end looks like it could bind. I thought that if i added shims to tilt the axle up this would help the drive shaft angle but i dont like the idea of shims and cant afford a high pinion as i just spent my money on replacing my 4.10 with 5.29s...

oswin

I too have a high steer kit and a long spline drive shaft... so my options would be a different drive shaft, dual cases, moving everything forward to increase wheel base or high pinion?? just did some measuring and altho its not an exact science i believe ive got a 5'' lift with 35s.. sorry about the misunderstanding...

ThatGuy1295

High pinion front is very niiice. If you have the option get one. It can't hurt ya. Everyone who says bad things about it are just jealous cause they don't have one.

The shims will for sure cause wandering. The truck won't know where straight is. You let go of the wheel and its tracks severely to the left or right. Expereinced it first hand. Their fine for off road only use as said by lots of people. But for the road don't do it.

Oatmeal

With a double cardon (CV) joint at the t/c you dont want the axle and t/c flanges to be parrallel, the axle's flange should be pointing straight at the t/c flange or with (almost) no angle at the u-joint.

You're probably not driving the truck with the front axle engaged at highway speeds so the increased angularity at the axle side u-joint and ensuing vibration it would cause shouldn't be a worry but, if you do, you will get some vibration.

You could redrill the t/c flange to accept a non cv d/s flange (cut down stock rear shaft) and run a single u-joint at both ends (you said your t/c and axle flanges are parrallel?) to eliminate or lessen the vibrations.

My truck runs a square tube front shaft because the axle only gets locked in on the trail but, I have run it at up to 40mph on occasion with some, not to harsh, vibration....it's not that bad.

The best way to address the problem is to remount the axle spring perches to fix you pinion angle and then cut and rotate the axle ends (knuckle balls) to regain your lost caster.

It's a lot of work but, the correct way to fix the problem(?)

Then again, my front pinion angle kinda sucks too but, I've never had a binding issue and my truck has a pretty flexy suspension.....hybrid rear springs up front, axle is moved 2" forward, 15" travel shocks, high steer yada, yada.....and it's also my daily driver.

Hans

oswin

The best way to address the problem is to remount the axle spring perches to fix you pinion angle and then cut and rotate the axle ends (knuckle balls) to regain your lost caster.

It's a lot of work but, the correct way to fix the problem(?)

thanks oatmeal, looks like i have some food for thought!!! the work load might be out of my league but at least i have an idea on how to correct my problem...

I think i will change out and 'beef up' my u-joint at the diff end and run her to see... If i have problems i will change my drive shaft or if money permits change to a high pinion set up.. i know that shims are now not an option!! cant wait to wheel!!

ThatGuy1295

High pinion, descent flex, single t-case, single u-joint top and bottom. No vibrations under 35mph.



During the build, if you look close you can see the old low pinion still in the axle.

Like mentioned by Oatmeal run a single u-joint top and bottom if your pinion and t-case are parallel and you should be fine. Double cardons are only for mismatched angles like when one joint is straight and the other at an angle. The double joint at one end cancels out the other.

ThatGuy1295

Just for fun. As you can see the drivline angle would be much worse obviously, if it were low pinion. Dual cases also make a nice improvement, but if your not going that route then I would suggest a high pinion over cutting spring perches off and trying to reweld knuckles back on as good as the factory. Not easy!! While it can be done correctly its not a practical approach to this very simple problem.

oswin

thanks Thatguy, this is all good stuff. I want to change my front drive shaft anyhow so will remove the double cardon and replace both u-joints with heavier units and see how it goes. If you get a chance to post more pics of your set up that wouild be awesome, i too will put some pics up once ive fiqured it out... I wanna put some pics up anyhow as im quite pleased with the build so far!!