Gonna have 22rte rebuilt and machIned
07-21-2012, 10:19 PM
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Gonna have 22rte rebuilt and machIned
Hi I have an 85 Toyota pickup with a 22re turbo engine I just bought the car and the owner gave me paper work saying that the head was machined and head gasket replaced 1500 miles later the crankshaft bearings break and are found I the oil pan shop so his mechanic says the the engine needs to be machined and rebuilt, so I have bought the car I'm gonna pull the motor and sent it to machine shop is there any upgrades I should have done while its appart, any parts , or certain extra things like port and polish or something any suggestions would help wanna build it right and if possible get more power let me know thanks
07-22-2012, 07:39 AM
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the 22rte came out in 86, someone must have swapped it in there but onto the main topic, you can do little stuff like double timing, maybe a cam and a bigger turbo but our trucks best as stock
07-22-2012, 12:49 PM
#6
Just as important, IMHO, is to make sure ALL the cooling system is working well/flushed well and check the oil cooler as well. These do NOT like to overheat/or even get close... and one of the best things to do is make sure your cooling system is tip-top. Check the Water pump as well. Pressure test/or have tested/ the Radiator, as well/Verify no leaks or ABOUT TO LEAK's are present. Flush if necessary. Replace ANY questionable coolant hoses. (I replaced them all... was NOT expensive and I feel VERY GOOD preventative maintenance. 
)
Make sure you grab an OEM Oil and Fuel Filter while you're at it, and send off the injectors just for the heck of it(unless they appear to have JUST been refreshed/have receipts?).
While your motor is off getting built(trust me, when you're told "3 days, max", ...that means, MOST OFTEN, 2 weeks, hahaha... NOT saying it will, but always use whatever down time you have, right?)......Pull all the vacuum fittings you can off the intake, bring it down to the machinist and ask him to hot tank them for ya(likely wont charge you any extra for this). Pay attention to any of the ports for vacuum on them, before you have it cleaned, and also clean out the Power Steering port, 3 way port, etc., etc.... This will prevent you having to hunt for the infamous "WTH is going on with this idle/Etc." type grelmlin, due to badly clogged vacuum ports, etc. Also clean the Throttle Body VERY WELL, including all the TINY holes. I found a bag tie, stripped of the paper on it, worked great for reaming out those ports. And they WERE clogged up with stuff. Couple of them I couldn't even breath through...... And 2 of them go to EGR stuff's. Just DO NOT SOAK THE TPS! Clean it, as I said, "carefully", with Throttle Body Cleaner and a rag, cleaning off the flap, then lightly lubing the shaft as best as you can without flooding the TPS.(Lube the Dashpot while you're at it, ..... Google "4Crawler TPS" and you'll see the Dashpot testing, etc.). WHILE YOU'RE AT IT, make sure ALL the vacuum hoses are in great shape... Look inside them as well. They can tend to seem ok on the outside, in some cases, and yet be collapsing and brittle inside, where they suck HOT AS HELL AIR all day long! haha. I replaced ALL mine with the best lines I could find at O'reilly's for around 20$(give or take a few bucks). And while you're at it, CLEAN THAT EGR LIST OF STUFF'S WELL, before slapping this all together, ya know? The head will be cleaned at that port by the machinist(make sure he cleans it THROUGH, all the way to the exhaust side)... But the EGR itself? BET YOU that lil side t-fitting hard line is clogged up
Bring the flywheel to the guy as well... if it needs it, and have him resurface it for you. It's very common to touch it, on accident when pulling up the motor, so cover it with a clean towel wrapped around it as you 'hold' the motor while on the hoist..... and if you do touch it...and don't need to remove it as it's in great shape... clean off the fingerprints. They create hot spots, which you don't want.
As mentioned, there are a couple options on replacing the turbo with an upgrade... Totally up to you as to how far you wanna go, ya know? "Search" on that one and you'll see what I mean. Mudbunny is a Members girl on here who has a thread where he's dealing with a 22RET Turbo right now(maybe already has?)..... Might check into that thread as well.
Performance mods for these are ENDLESS(OK, they're NOT endless...but many ways you can go).... Personally, if I wanted to really get AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE out of one of these.... I would talk to Putney's( www.22reperformance.com ) and see what you can do. You could ask the machinist, "How much to slap a 1MM stainless oversized valve grind into it?".... and if it's cheap enough, grab the stainless oversized valves from www.engnbldr.com . IF you go that route, you could also ask the machinist how much for a lil porting of the head? Weigh out the costs, ...and 1. If your head is largely PRISTINE, only the bottom end is messed up... I'd just do a 261 CAM from www.engnbldr.com and a header, double roller timing chain/or at least steel guide kit from engnbldr and be done with it..... OR....... 2. If the head IS needing a full do over.... Maybe consider, since you're looking for performance gains, going with a Street RV head from engnbldr(Not sure if the Turbo Head is slightly different.. Can't remember. Someone on here will chime in). That head, delivered, w/cam, is 550$ or so. READY TO GO. It would come with the 1mm oversized stainless valves and MAYBE some porting?(can't remember).... along with the cam... And you WOULD notice the difference in the motor, RIGHT THERE, with that head alone.
Not sure if the 22RET AFM is larger in diameter... But if not, maybe look into a Supra AFM swap, especially if you upgrade the head/port anything. This will PROVIDE the extra air needed, quicker, and should AID in a lil bit of gain that you're getting.....DEPENDING on which route you go with the motor/head, etc.
MOST of what I'm suggesting is maintenance, but that's most important when ALSO doing upgrades.
If you REALLY want to have 'upgrade's you can feel', and the machinist starts quoting prices on all this that get into the 'higher end'... maybe consider calling www.22reperformance.com and see what one of their Stage 2 motors would go for/what they would do on a 22RET? I'm sure it's around 2K$, at least..... But you'd be done with it, top to bottom, and have a good guarantee as well. They have a pretty great reputation. So do engnbldr, LCE and a few others, if you're thinking of piecing together your own(Assembling yourself, grabbing a new head or having yours tricked out a bit, etc.).
BE SURE you read up on head bolt Torque Values. Not sure, but I know the 22REC has been updated in the FSM's for the dealerships to 63-65FT#. NOT 58# as recommended in the books. IF you're doing it yourself, of course. And, make sure when you get it back that the holes are not soaked with oil.... Makes it hard for the rings to seat, as they can glaze over quickly if too soaked. Then be sure you REALLY clean the block deck where the head will go WELL! Acetone and Rubbing Alcohol after a CAREFUL very lightly dampened lint free rag with soap and hot water works wonders. ALL THIS WORK, meeting up with a blemished or residue riddled block and head deck surfaces... well, that could lead you to 'OOOPS, gotta tear it back down in 5 minutes for another HG' situation... Ask me how I KNOW? hahaha.(and my surfaces were PRISTINE, with even another set of eyes making sure... Ya never know, eh?).
Personally? I might do a CAM, AFM swap, header, couple mods like that on one... But JUST LIKE IT COMES, with a lil bit of 'refresh', it should be enough to give you LOTS of troublefree miles and lots of fun, with a LIL extra 'POP' and power on hills, etc. That, along with Gears/Locker, ...I'd be done! As mentioned,.... they DO seem to prefer to remain stock'ish! LOL. I would focus more on using "QUALITY: RINGS, BEARINGS, VALVES, GUIDES, SEALS, SPRINGS(IF NEEDED), WRIST PINS, PISTONS, OIL COOLING, WATER COOLING" products more than anything else. You could get 300HP out of this thing with enough money... But with just one of those major internal components being CRAP? .... Have fun doing it again in a couple years, yeah? As I said, those above, along with a CAM, maybe a www.22reperformance.com head/engnblrdr , QUALITY header(if that's feasible on these)..... things I can TRUST will last and give me gains w/out making me fail smog or get 10MPG? That's what I'd do.
) Make sure you grab an OEM Oil and Fuel Filter while you're at it, and send off the injectors just for the heck of it(unless they appear to have JUST been refreshed/have receipts?).
While your motor is off getting built(trust me, when you're told "3 days, max", ...that means, MOST OFTEN, 2 weeks, hahaha... NOT saying it will, but always use whatever down time you have, right?)......Pull all the vacuum fittings you can off the intake, bring it down to the machinist and ask him to hot tank them for ya(likely wont charge you any extra for this). Pay attention to any of the ports for vacuum on them, before you have it cleaned, and also clean out the Power Steering port, 3 way port, etc., etc.... This will prevent you having to hunt for the infamous "WTH is going on with this idle/Etc." type grelmlin, due to badly clogged vacuum ports, etc. Also clean the Throttle Body VERY WELL, including all the TINY holes. I found a bag tie, stripped of the paper on it, worked great for reaming out those ports. And they WERE clogged up with stuff. Couple of them I couldn't even breath through...... And 2 of them go to EGR stuff's. Just DO NOT SOAK THE TPS! Clean it, as I said, "carefully", with Throttle Body Cleaner and a rag, cleaning off the flap, then lightly lubing the shaft as best as you can without flooding the TPS.(Lube the Dashpot while you're at it, ..... Google "4Crawler TPS" and you'll see the Dashpot testing, etc.). WHILE YOU'RE AT IT, make sure ALL the vacuum hoses are in great shape... Look inside them as well. They can tend to seem ok on the outside, in some cases, and yet be collapsing and brittle inside, where they suck HOT AS HELL AIR all day long! haha. I replaced ALL mine with the best lines I could find at O'reilly's for around 20$(give or take a few bucks). And while you're at it, CLEAN THAT EGR LIST OF STUFF'S WELL, before slapping this all together, ya know? The head will be cleaned at that port by the machinist(make sure he cleans it THROUGH, all the way to the exhaust side)... But the EGR itself? BET YOU that lil side t-fitting hard line is clogged up
Bring the flywheel to the guy as well... if it needs it, and have him resurface it for you. It's very common to touch it, on accident when pulling up the motor, so cover it with a clean towel wrapped around it as you 'hold' the motor while on the hoist..... and if you do touch it...and don't need to remove it as it's in great shape... clean off the fingerprints. They create hot spots, which you don't want.
As mentioned, there are a couple options on replacing the turbo with an upgrade... Totally up to you as to how far you wanna go, ya know? "Search" on that one and you'll see what I mean. Mudbunny is a Members girl on here who has a thread where he's dealing with a 22RET Turbo right now(maybe already has?)..... Might check into that thread as well.
Performance mods for these are ENDLESS(OK, they're NOT endless...but many ways you can go).... Personally, if I wanted to really get AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE out of one of these.... I would talk to Putney's( www.22reperformance.com ) and see what you can do. You could ask the machinist, "How much to slap a 1MM stainless oversized valve grind into it?".... and if it's cheap enough, grab the stainless oversized valves from www.engnbldr.com . IF you go that route, you could also ask the machinist how much for a lil porting of the head? Weigh out the costs, ...and 1. If your head is largely PRISTINE, only the bottom end is messed up... I'd just do a 261 CAM from www.engnbldr.com and a header, double roller timing chain/or at least steel guide kit from engnbldr and be done with it..... OR....... 2. If the head IS needing a full do over.... Maybe consider, since you're looking for performance gains, going with a Street RV head from engnbldr(Not sure if the Turbo Head is slightly different.. Can't remember. Someone on here will chime in). That head, delivered, w/cam, is 550$ or so. READY TO GO. It would come with the 1mm oversized stainless valves and MAYBE some porting?(can't remember).... along with the cam... And you WOULD notice the difference in the motor, RIGHT THERE, with that head alone.
Not sure if the 22RET AFM is larger in diameter... But if not, maybe look into a Supra AFM swap, especially if you upgrade the head/port anything. This will PROVIDE the extra air needed, quicker, and should AID in a lil bit of gain that you're getting.....DEPENDING on which route you go with the motor/head, etc.
MOST of what I'm suggesting is maintenance, but that's most important when ALSO doing upgrades.
If you REALLY want to have 'upgrade's you can feel', and the machinist starts quoting prices on all this that get into the 'higher end'... maybe consider calling www.22reperformance.com and see what one of their Stage 2 motors would go for/what they would do on a 22RET? I'm sure it's around 2K$, at least..... But you'd be done with it, top to bottom, and have a good guarantee as well. They have a pretty great reputation. So do engnbldr, LCE and a few others, if you're thinking of piecing together your own(Assembling yourself, grabbing a new head or having yours tricked out a bit, etc.).
BE SURE you read up on head bolt Torque Values. Not sure, but I know the 22REC has been updated in the FSM's for the dealerships to 63-65FT#. NOT 58# as recommended in the books. IF you're doing it yourself, of course. And, make sure when you get it back that the holes are not soaked with oil.... Makes it hard for the rings to seat, as they can glaze over quickly if too soaked. Then be sure you REALLY clean the block deck where the head will go WELL! Acetone and Rubbing Alcohol after a CAREFUL very lightly dampened lint free rag with soap and hot water works wonders. ALL THIS WORK, meeting up with a blemished or residue riddled block and head deck surfaces... well, that could lead you to 'OOOPS, gotta tear it back down in 5 minutes for another HG' situation... Ask me how I KNOW? hahaha.(and my surfaces were PRISTINE, with even another set of eyes making sure... Ya never know, eh?).
Personally? I might do a CAM, AFM swap, header, couple mods like that on one... But JUST LIKE IT COMES, with a lil bit of 'refresh', it should be enough to give you LOTS of troublefree miles and lots of fun, with a LIL extra 'POP' and power on hills, etc. That, along with Gears/Locker, ...I'd be done! As mentioned,.... they DO seem to prefer to remain stock'ish! LOL. I would focus more on using "QUALITY: RINGS, BEARINGS, VALVES, GUIDES, SEALS, SPRINGS(IF NEEDED), WRIST PINS, PISTONS, OIL COOLING, WATER COOLING" products more than anything else. You could get 300HP out of this thing with enough money... But with just one of those major internal components being CRAP? .... Have fun doing it again in a couple years, yeah? As I said, those above, along with a CAM, maybe a www.22reperformance.com head/engnblrdr , QUALITY header(if that's feasible on these)..... things I can TRUST will last and give me gains w/out making me fail smog or get 10MPG? That's what I'd do.
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