peow130

3.125" x 0.500" wall
Yep.. they always have. The axle shafts themselves though, that's a different story

Anyways, for ease of swappage the toyota axle will be the best. If you're building a full on comp buggy with a V8, dana 60's will be the best.

Volcom

I will have to disagree with both of these statements. This is coming from somebody that is running 39.5" Iroks on Toyota axles for 5 years now. Nothing is "cheap" when building D60's. My dad is building a set right now, I know firsthand how expensive D60 parts are. I also have a built Toyota front axle. It's no diamond housing or HP diff but it's got 30 spline Longfields, ARP knuckle & hub studs, 5th knuckle stud, Chromo hub gears. The rear is stock IFS axle. They have held together just fine for my wheeling style and 40's.

Believe me, I plan on moving to a D60 front / 14 B rear. But it's going to take $3000-3500 to buy & build them (not including new wheels to account for the lug pattern difference). I way less than half of that in Toyota axles.

yotaman85

a junkyard d60 will hold up to your tires too, and it would cost less then what you have in you toyota axle. thats all they were saying.

FWIW, i would use the toyota axles.

Volcom

Yeah but a junkyard D60 won't have the correct setup for steering and a locker. I'm looking for my dad's build up sheet with prices. It's crazy how fast it adds up to build a D60. That's like telling somebody with IFS to just grab a solid axle and throw it under their rig. There's WAY more it it than that.

Volcom

Front D60
$1000 for the Axle it was complete but not together.
$550 for Detroit
$120 for 4.88 gears
$150 for gear set up
$100 for master install
$80.00 wheel bearings
$90.00 rotors
$150.00 guess on calipers and brake pads
$100.00 knuckle rebuild kit
$25.00 spindle rebuild kit
$225.00 high steer arms
$200 for dom and TREs for steering
______________________________________
$2790 for the front axle and that's sticking with the stock 30 spline outers.

Add $250 for 35 spline Warn locking hubs and $200 for stock 35 spline outers = $3240 minimum.

That's not including U joints, fluids, chromo axles or U bolts & plates.

Rear D60
Free - axle came with Jeep. Usually they run $50-$200
$550 Detroit locker
$150.00 gears
$125.00 master install
$150.00 labor to install gears
$80.00 wheel bearing
$75.00 bored the spindles for 35 spline axles
$200.00 price for 35 spline 1541 axles shafts
$450.00 disk brake kit (could go with cheaper brake kits but this kit included Eldorado calipers to have an E-brake)
______________________________________________
$1780

Not included in those prices are new 8 lug wheels. If your running 15's, you will have to step up to a 16" or 17" wheels and tires.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

^^ Great post Volcom

and than you end up with a truck you can't daily drive in most states with out massive goofy looking fender flares of some kind. I would love to go to full size axles someday but i would end up adding the extra expense of having the housings/axles narrowed so I could still drive the truck on the street every once in a while..

peow130

Holy christ. The whole reason i even suggested D60's in the first place was if he was making a SERIOUS WHEELING RIG.

Nobody caught the point. For ease of SAS, and something you're going to DD on occasion, yeah the Toyota axle is great. Its strength is good, pretty stout, and they're not too bad to buy used.. But i know for a fact that the wabbit won't even buy a used axle because he would rather not get one with a bent housing.

However, if you're going the dedicated trail rig, and you want a rig that's built to crawl, the wider axles will suit your case better.
1) Thicker axle shafts
2) Thicker axle tubes
3) Bigger R/P
4) Bigger knuckle
5) 8 lug outers
6) Huge disk brakes
7) 1350 pinion yoke ( not sure if that's what it's called)
8) Great aftermarket support
9) EASILY NARROWED TO TOYOTA OR JEEP WIDTH (if that's what you want)

Now, i'm not saying this is the be-all end-all of axles. However, if you're running 39.5 iroks, and you're running a V6 or V8 or Diesel or whatever the heck else (Let's face it, any serious crawler isn't going to be running a 90hp gas guzzler like the 22re or 22r, unless it's an ftoy), then you'll probably not need to re-gear to 4.88's or 4.56's right away..

You made some great posts, Volcom, and i don't disagree with you in the least bit.. But heres a break down of toyota parts and pieces you neglected to mention, that alot of people end up buying:

Hi-steer knuckles, drag links, and tie-rods: $335 (for just the 4 stud knuckles)
Knuckle service kit (Nobody finds a mint axle): $152 (with wheelbearings)
ONE new 3rd member pre-set up from Trailgear with a spool (cheapest) at 4.88's: $660
ONE new 3rd member pre-set up from TG with 4.88's and a DETROIT: $1,049
27 Spline longfield superaxlle 4140 superset: $610

I could keep going, but i know for a fact a dana 60 can be had at a price much less than that, and out of the box run 39.5's. You're going to break things in EITHER axle anyways, so why not start off with the better platform FROM THE START WITH A SERIOUS WHEELER.

Leviticus6432

Nobody likes a D44 with flat top knuckles? Cheapest option... imho

peow130

That actually would have been the second choice. D44's are plentiful, and the easiest axle to narrow. Namely because the amount of vehicles with D44's allows you to narrow either side to ANY Length and still find a stock shaft lol

Volcom

My Toyota axle build prices

Front
Marlin high steer (I paid close to $600 for it back in the day) $429
Aussie locker $200
Gears & setup kit $220
ARP Knuckle studs $56
ARP hub studs $69
Longfield 30 spline axles $650
Longfield hub gears $120
Longfield 5th stud kit $50
Marlin knuckle rebuild kit $100
V6 calipers and pads $200
____________________
$2094

Rear
Aussie locker $200
Gears & setup kit $220
____________________
$420

My buddy did the gear setup on both diffs so you'd have to add $150 to each axle for gear setup.

But with sticking to the Toyota axles, they bolt right up. The brakes work with the stock system (good luck getting 1 ton brakes working without having to dump some $$$ into them).

Volcom

Yeah but in the same breath you said "REALLY" wheel it. That's why I replied. Serious wheelers don't have to jump straight to 1 tons.

I "REALLY" wheel mine on Toyota axles. Even with a 22RE, as crazy that sounds

peow130

clearly still missing the point.
Congratulations, i'm not sinking to your level.

Volcom

Definally not missing the point. Congratulations, you don't have a clue of what it takes to actually wheel a 22RE powered Toyota on 40's with Toyota axles. You keep saying SERIOUS WHEELING RIG and can't be done with Toyota axles & a 22RE. I just proved your bad advice wrong. Anything else Mr "1" AAL lift and Tbar crank. and two KC HiLites"

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

More expensive to build a D44 and weaker than a Toyota axle IMO.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

There is no way you are really wheeling that 'Runner... Those are all photoshopped pictures with rocky/snowy backgrounds...

If you were REALLY wheeling it, I would see 8-10 lugs, minimal 40" tires, and a 6-71 blower popping out of the hood atop a 4-5-4.....

When you are ready to wheel, then let Peow know.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Web wheeling is a cheap hobby. That's what I'm doing these days to save money.

:wabbit2:

Greg_Canada

LMFAO.....

peow130

Look here, Gomer, i never said ONCE that toyota axles were bad.
Is he building a competition buggy?
No.
Is he going to be trailering his junk everywhere?
Nada
So yeah, he can use the toyota axles.
What you missed is the fact that a serious wheeling rig in my definition is a competition buggy, dedicated trail buggy, etc. etc.
And the reason for the dana's? Well, shear simplicity. They're bigger, wider, and stronger OUT OF THE BOX.
And sure, yeah, you can use your 22re to use in a comp buggy, but who in their right mind would, when SBC 350's are plentiful, or you could get a GM 5.3.Twice the power, same MPG's..

But hey, since you enjoy spending the same amount on inferior parts, then go for it. I'm not saying this guy can't run the toyota axles. He asked if he should use Dana's, we all said no because the toy axles are fine for what he wants to do. If he was building a fullly caged buggy with an LS1, Auto trans, and toyota axles, i'm sure you'd tell him he was a little silly for dropping the extra cash into a toyota axle instead of just running the tons in the first place.
Congratulations Gomer, you've managed to argue the same point as me and win.

Also, i bet your rig isn't trailered, and something tells me you STILL drive it on the street.

And yeah, i do have an AAL, i use my truck to haul loads of stuff around, and i'd rather not have a raked out, flat springed, ride. But i guess since the KC's got smashed i should take them off.