rolled my truck
09-18-2012, 05:36 PM
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6 bolts, steering, wiring, radiator, and anything else thats bolted to the firewall, like brake lines to mc, etc. 1 back yard, 2 guys, one week end, some beer and banaids should get you close. remove doors and fenders etc, unbolt everything, cut the inner fenders off the cab close to the fire wall and remove the front section. then you can flip the cab off to one side. hardest part is getting new cab in place with the front section still attached. 4 more guys and beer otta do it, or use a back hoe to lift it, etc. good luck n be safe !!!
09-19-2012, 12:29 AM
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It isnt hard at all. Nothing to be worried about. If you have the exact same cab to match up. I copied from a post I did to try and make it a little easier to understand.
Copied....I have talked to a couple of other people on here about doing frame swap or body swaps. I have done two and tried to write out a nice way of doing this. I did the swaps before finding Yotatech and wish I would of taken pictures. I figured I would put this in my thread so if others do a search on it, it might make finding this thread easier and so I can call it up quick if I need it. I havent done a 4runner but the steps would be about the same. If you can pull a motor or tranny you can swap bodies/frames. It s very doable and nothing to be afraid of.
I did the 22re's. Apparently a 3.0 and 22res frame arent interchangeable without redoing the motor mounts. I am sure everythign here would apply to a 3.0, but I havent done this so will not say for sure. 84-88 Pickup frames and 89-95 frames are not interchange able from what I have been told.
On the 84-89 4runner behind the Drivers rear tire is a wire disconnect point, for the tailgate and lights that would make separating the wires for body removal. Im sure a 90-95 4Runner would be the same, but I havent done one so cant say for sure.
Fierohinks has some pic in his thread for some ideas and what things will look like. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/
Dutchbelly has some good pics of doing a Frame swap...... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-234352/
I didnt have a lift, so if you were going to leave the drive train in, there are some steps that would be different and I will try and write them up as best as I can at a later time.
First I center the Steering Wheel and remove the motor and tranny. If you have a lift and can get the body high enough this would really help, but this is how I have to do this.
Getting the Steering Wheel and wheels straight just makes it alot easier for later. When I take the cab off and put it back on is when I install and remove the Steering Rod is probably the most hardest. You may find another way, but this works for me.
Then on the frame by the right front tire you have 2 brake lines to disconnect. This is the best place to do it as it keeps the lines on the cab intact and the frame lines will stay intact. This will take care of your brake issues. ( Pic at bottom)
I then disconnect the Wiring harness under the Passenger side seat and this will let the cab come off with out any problems other than you front blinkers and I take the Front Bumper off just so I dont have to lift the cab so high. Leave the wiring harness to the Tail lights/ Fuel Pump on the back half of the frame til later. You can get it when you take the bed off. All of your electrical and computer wires will come with the cab. This is set up quite nice. Just mark all of your wires and such when you pull your motor. When you pull your motor, you will have taken care of alot of other steps like fuel lines.
I disconnect the E-brake cable at the mounting point just in front of the gas tank.
You have 6 bolts that hold the cab to the frame. The cab and front end come off in one piece. I already have the hood off. I leave fenders, doors, and interior in. 2 bolts by the Radiator, 2 bolts behind the front tires, and 2 bolts toward the rear of the cab is all that hold the cab to the frame. You can tell them as they sit on the outside of the frame and have rubber bushings. You may have to lift your carpet to hold them with wrench to take the nut off.
You have 8-10 bolts that hold the bed on. They have a tab that sticks in the bed so you dont have to have a wrench to hold the top. You should take some PB Blaster a nite or two ahead of time before you do this as most or all of the bolts will break. They are special so you will need to get some from Toyota or the salvage. This is a good time to remove the 3 screws that hold your gas tank fill tube to the bed or body of a 4Runner. Also I have had problems of these nuts backing off when I have had a bed bolt off before so I would suggest using locktite. I use 4 concrete blocks and set the bed on these with the floor of the bed on the blocks so I dont have to worry about damaging the bed sides.
Once all of this is done, I use some concrete blocks and 4x4 wood to support the cab. If your rocker panels are in good shape you can rest it on the wood. If not you might want to support it using blocks of wood between the 4x4 and floor. I set the concrete blocks about a foot from the cab to clear the front tires. This way could be a little unstable so be careful or you might have some other way of doing this. Here is whereI get 3 other guys to help lift the cab. 2 lifting and 2 setting up the stand for the cab. The back is heavy, but the front is light. I go about a foot high off of the frame for everything to clear, but work the frame out slowly and make sure it is high enough. I back the frame out as the front part of the frame is lower than the back part.
I get the new frame with axles in them or you can just put yours in. Put the wiring harness for the back part of the truck and fuel tank in and hopefully you will have brake lines and fuel lines already on or you will get to do that too. Try and get a frame with this stuff already on It will save you a lot of time. Put your exhaust in before you move the new frame under the cab.
Before I start all of this, I try to have the new frame prepped as far as I can. Without counting motor/tranny removal and having the frame ready. I have done this in about 20 total hours using basic tools in a weekend by myself except lifting the cab and body. Cutting torch for bolts, air tools, and a lift would be soooo nice. If you can get the body high enough it would make swapping alot easier, but I dont have access to a lift so this is how I do it. The first time I did this I was intimidated, but by the time I had the old frame out I wasnt in the least bit concerened. If you can pull a motor and tranny out, you wont have any problems. You will be quite surprised when you do it. Any questions that come up, feel free to ask.
If you are going to use a lift and keep the drive train in you will need to
Disconnect your fuel line from fuel filter.
Remove your electrical lines from your injectors and sensors.
Disconnect your electrical lines from your transmission, O2 sensor and transfer case.
I mentioned it earlier, but remove 3 screws that hold your fuel tank to the bed/ body. You can remvoe the lines at the tank, but I feel this is easier.
On a 4Runner you will have to go up between the body an frame and remove 2 bolts to get the fuel filler assembly out.
These are some steps that are different from pulling the motor. Im sure there are more steps but this will get you started in the right direction.
Here is a great place to disconnect your brake and clutch line. By the Passenger front tire.
Wiring harness with tranny and tcase conrectors.
Steps without having to pull the drive train and cab only.
Disconnect steering linkage at gear box or firewall
6 bolts that hold the body on.
Wiring harness all the way to the tranny and lay it over the fender.
I would pull radiator for more clearance
Brake and clutch line behind right rear front tire
Ebrake at the crossmember
I would disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter
Remove tranny and tcase sticks so they dont get damaged.
Disconnect wring harness under cab under passenger seat.
Front bumper for easier clearance, may not be needed though.
Speedometer cable
Throttle cable
Copied....I have talked to a couple of other people on here about doing frame swap or body swaps. I have done two and tried to write out a nice way of doing this. I did the swaps before finding Yotatech and wish I would of taken pictures. I figured I would put this in my thread so if others do a search on it, it might make finding this thread easier and so I can call it up quick if I need it. I havent done a 4runner but the steps would be about the same. If you can pull a motor or tranny you can swap bodies/frames. It s very doable and nothing to be afraid of.
I did the 22re's. Apparently a 3.0 and 22res frame arent interchangeable without redoing the motor mounts. I am sure everythign here would apply to a 3.0, but I havent done this so will not say for sure. 84-88 Pickup frames and 89-95 frames are not interchange able from what I have been told.
On the 84-89 4runner behind the Drivers rear tire is a wire disconnect point, for the tailgate and lights that would make separating the wires for body removal. Im sure a 90-95 4Runner would be the same, but I havent done one so cant say for sure.
Fierohinks has some pic in his thread for some ideas and what things will look like. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/
Dutchbelly has some good pics of doing a Frame swap...... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-234352/
I didnt have a lift, so if you were going to leave the drive train in, there are some steps that would be different and I will try and write them up as best as I can at a later time.
First I center the Steering Wheel and remove the motor and tranny. If you have a lift and can get the body high enough this would really help, but this is how I have to do this.
Getting the Steering Wheel and wheels straight just makes it alot easier for later. When I take the cab off and put it back on is when I install and remove the Steering Rod is probably the most hardest. You may find another way, but this works for me.
Then on the frame by the right front tire you have 2 brake lines to disconnect. This is the best place to do it as it keeps the lines on the cab intact and the frame lines will stay intact. This will take care of your brake issues. ( Pic at bottom)
I then disconnect the Wiring harness under the Passenger side seat and this will let the cab come off with out any problems other than you front blinkers and I take the Front Bumper off just so I dont have to lift the cab so high. Leave the wiring harness to the Tail lights/ Fuel Pump on the back half of the frame til later. You can get it when you take the bed off. All of your electrical and computer wires will come with the cab. This is set up quite nice. Just mark all of your wires and such when you pull your motor. When you pull your motor, you will have taken care of alot of other steps like fuel lines.
I disconnect the E-brake cable at the mounting point just in front of the gas tank.
You have 6 bolts that hold the cab to the frame. The cab and front end come off in one piece. I already have the hood off. I leave fenders, doors, and interior in. 2 bolts by the Radiator, 2 bolts behind the front tires, and 2 bolts toward the rear of the cab is all that hold the cab to the frame. You can tell them as they sit on the outside of the frame and have rubber bushings. You may have to lift your carpet to hold them with wrench to take the nut off.
You have 8-10 bolts that hold the bed on. They have a tab that sticks in the bed so you dont have to have a wrench to hold the top. You should take some PB Blaster a nite or two ahead of time before you do this as most or all of the bolts will break. They are special so you will need to get some from Toyota or the salvage. This is a good time to remove the 3 screws that hold your gas tank fill tube to the bed or body of a 4Runner. Also I have had problems of these nuts backing off when I have had a bed bolt off before so I would suggest using locktite. I use 4 concrete blocks and set the bed on these with the floor of the bed on the blocks so I dont have to worry about damaging the bed sides.
Once all of this is done, I use some concrete blocks and 4x4 wood to support the cab. If your rocker panels are in good shape you can rest it on the wood. If not you might want to support it using blocks of wood between the 4x4 and floor. I set the concrete blocks about a foot from the cab to clear the front tires. This way could be a little unstable so be careful or you might have some other way of doing this. Here is whereI get 3 other guys to help lift the cab. 2 lifting and 2 setting up the stand for the cab. The back is heavy, but the front is light. I go about a foot high off of the frame for everything to clear, but work the frame out slowly and make sure it is high enough. I back the frame out as the front part of the frame is lower than the back part.
I get the new frame with axles in them or you can just put yours in. Put the wiring harness for the back part of the truck and fuel tank in and hopefully you will have brake lines and fuel lines already on or you will get to do that too. Try and get a frame with this stuff already on It will save you a lot of time. Put your exhaust in before you move the new frame under the cab.
Before I start all of this, I try to have the new frame prepped as far as I can. Without counting motor/tranny removal and having the frame ready. I have done this in about 20 total hours using basic tools in a weekend by myself except lifting the cab and body. Cutting torch for bolts, air tools, and a lift would be soooo nice. If you can get the body high enough it would make swapping alot easier, but I dont have access to a lift so this is how I do it. The first time I did this I was intimidated, but by the time I had the old frame out I wasnt in the least bit concerened. If you can pull a motor and tranny out, you wont have any problems. You will be quite surprised when you do it. Any questions that come up, feel free to ask.
If you are going to use a lift and keep the drive train in you will need to
Disconnect your fuel line from fuel filter.
Remove your electrical lines from your injectors and sensors.
Disconnect your electrical lines from your transmission, O2 sensor and transfer case.
I mentioned it earlier, but remove 3 screws that hold your fuel tank to the bed/ body. You can remvoe the lines at the tank, but I feel this is easier.
On a 4Runner you will have to go up between the body an frame and remove 2 bolts to get the fuel filler assembly out.
These are some steps that are different from pulling the motor. Im sure there are more steps but this will get you started in the right direction.
Here is a great place to disconnect your brake and clutch line. By the Passenger front tire.
Wiring harness with tranny and tcase conrectors.
Steps without having to pull the drive train and cab only.
Disconnect steering linkage at gear box or firewall
6 bolts that hold the body on.
Wiring harness all the way to the tranny and lay it over the fender.
I would pull radiator for more clearance
Brake and clutch line behind right rear front tire
Ebrake at the crossmember
I would disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter
Remove tranny and tcase sticks so they dont get damaged.
Disconnect wring harness under cab under passenger seat.
Front bumper for easier clearance, may not be needed though.
Speedometer cable
Throttle cable
Last edited by Terrys87; 12-06-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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09-19-2012, 12:52 PM
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yea sorry didnt really give any information at all its a 1980 4wd with a 81 22r in it. I found a 82 thats gettin parted out windows doors fenders and cab for 600$. Its about an hour away i gotta get ahold of a trailer or somthin to get it back home. The truck still runs alright i had to tie a rope to the radiator support and back up to get the fan spinnin again. But other than that ive been wearing motocross goggles and drivin the thing around town. Even got the hood to latch. Once everything is back together I think a roll bar is in order. Im gonna try and borrow an iphone for some pics comming soon. really appreciate the info guys thanks.
09-19-2012, 01:18 PM
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here it is
http://s1220.photobucket.com/profile/fooliolio/index
you can even see the before pictures that was back before i put a ome 2.5 inch lift a lc header and 2 and a quarter inch pipes
http://s1220.photobucket.com/profile/fooliolio/index
you can even see the before pictures that was back before i put a ome 2.5 inch lift a lc header and 2 and a quarter inch pipes
Last edited by foolio; 09-19-2012 at 01:23 PM.
09-19-2012, 02:19 PM
#13
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here it is
http://s1220.photobucket.com/profile/fooliolio/index
you can even see the before pictures that was back before i put a ome 2.5 inch lift a lc header and 2 and a quarter inch pipes
http://s1220.photobucket.com/profile/fooliolio/index
you can even see the before pictures that was back before i put a ome 2.5 inch lift a lc header and 2 and a quarter inch pipes
why not just replace hood fenders and push the roof back out =D
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09-20-2012, 05:15 PM
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i was really just driving down a hill too fast. I slid up on an embankment on the left hand side of the trail but thought i was alright because it all looked smooth but on the other side of a bush was a big root. my drivers side wheel hit the root compressed the springs and then launched the truck over clockwise. did a full roll and landed on my wheels engine still running. I must of got some air because the passenger side didnt take much of a beating compared to where i landed on the drivers side. I noticed the truck was overheating and when i looked inside the fan wasnt spinning so i tied a rope around the front end and backed away from a tree problem solved.
by the way how do i post pics like that i always screw up
aand another thing i noticed a pretty good crack in the bed. I have the old style tailgate with the side latches and they are sorta holding it together but seems like ill probly want to change the bed out down the line at some point. anyone have any cool suggestions on what to replace it with?
by the way how do i post pics like that i always screw up
aand another thing i noticed a pretty good crack in the bed. I have the old style tailgate with the side latches and they are sorta holding it together but seems like ill probly want to change the bed out down the line at some point. anyone have any cool suggestions on what to replace it with?
Last edited by foolio; 09-20-2012 at 05:21 PM.
09-24-2012, 05:07 PM
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So i went today to swap the cab out. Had been talkin to this guy for a couple days and he said he had a 1982 in good condition. My trucks a 1980 but it has a 22r so an 82 should be fine. anyway i show up before he gets off work to start pullin out the bolts and when i peel the carpet up i see a gaping hole in the floor pan on both sides of the cab. The mounts werent even bolted to the cab the holes were so bad. So I wasted one of my days off. I had to make a hour and a half trip each way on the freeway in the beat up yota with no windshield. Im currently working on a new lead though. apparently another guy has a 83 cab, fenders, hood and doors for 450$ so ill tell you all how it goes.
09-24-2012, 06:58 PM
#20
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I would defininetly say a cab swap is in order! I'm glad it wasn't worse and you didn't end up to bad.
You could always get out the trusty bfh and a porta power jack and straighten things out and call it good haha
You could always get out the trusty bfh and a porta power jack and straighten things out and call it good haha
