79 sr5 longbed 2wd fuel issues
02-13-2012, 09:12 AM
#1
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79 sr5 longbed 2wd fuel issues
i have a 79 pickup that i just installed a webber into. i started it and it runs get out fo the greatness of how it sounds and she dies. and i work on the tryin to get her to start and it will sometimes but for short time. so i turn on ignition and unplug filter nothing but fuel came out of line before as it was diconnected then i removed line before filter and same thing. so my question is can an electric pupm work for a second and not most of the time.
03-02-2012, 10:55 AM
#6
I'm with dropzone on that one, I avoid electric anything if I can. Check your fuel filter at the tank and while you're at it, you might want to make sure that the fuel screen inside the tank isn't clogged. When I first got my truck, I took the tank off and disposed of the old fuel in it. I filled up a soda can with the rust scale that can out of my tank! Also, that Weber works best with 3.5 psi, you might want to install a fuel pressure regulator.
Also, since you yanked all the smog BS, you might want to go back through and make sure that all the excess vacuum ports are pluged properly.
Also, since you yanked all the smog BS, you might want to go back through and make sure that all the excess vacuum ports are pluged properly.
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03-02-2012, 01:17 PM
#8
Registered User
Well, I didn't put a pressure regulator on my weber, and I don't seem to be having any problems...correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that any fuel pressure not required to fill the bowl or run the truck goes back down the return line to the tank?
03-02-2012, 01:19 PM
#9
have heard it both ways regarding the FP regulator with a weber
some sites are saying that a weber carb needs 3.5 PSI
edit, more info:
some of this junk might help:
From this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...2-36-a-240521/
Other helpful links:
Subject: weber carb info
weber carb tuning:
http://www.clutchkitcenter.com/media...weber/K610.pdf
˟
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=62976.0
˟
trouble shooting guide:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...ng%20Guide.pdf
˟
carb adjustment guide:
http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf
˟
jetting:
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/62/32/
˟
parts diagram/exploded view:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec..._breakdown.htm
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...3236DGAVEV.pdf
˟
˟
carb set up and lean best idle set up:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm
˟
http://www.poustusa.com/weber_carb_p..._carb_page.htm
some sites are saying that a weber carb needs 3.5 PSI
edit, more info:
some of this junk might help:
From this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...2-36-a-240521/
Someone please sticky this.
NOTE: This ONLY goes for the 32/36 DGV/DGEV/DGAV etc series of carburetors not the 38.
This procedure assumes no modifications have been done internally to the carburetor. Including but not limited to primary and secondary main jets, air corrector jets.
It also assumes you have no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE including the popular two-piece adapter that typically comes with the kits. I HIGHLY suggest using the Transdapt 1 piece adapter. Others have had decent results with the LCE spiral adapter as well, even though that is also a two-piece unit. Easy way to test for vacuum leaks at the adapter is to spray carb cleaner in and around the entire base of the carburetor. If a change in idle (usually a stumble) is noticed then the adapter is leaking air into the engine and needs to be fixed before any accurate tune is achieved.
Other common areas for vacuum leaks are Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and timing cover gaskets.
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.
CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.
Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out.
DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.
Back out the screw 2 full turns.
TUNING
Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.
JET KITS are available if needed.
EXAMPLE: With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.
The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.
NOTE: This ONLY goes for the 32/36 DGV/DGEV/DGAV etc series of carburetors not the 38.
This procedure assumes no modifications have been done internally to the carburetor. Including but not limited to primary and secondary main jets, air corrector jets.
It also assumes you have no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE including the popular two-piece adapter that typically comes with the kits. I HIGHLY suggest using the Transdapt 1 piece adapter. Others have had decent results with the LCE spiral adapter as well, even though that is also a two-piece unit. Easy way to test for vacuum leaks at the adapter is to spray carb cleaner in and around the entire base of the carburetor. If a change in idle (usually a stumble) is noticed then the adapter is leaking air into the engine and needs to be fixed before any accurate tune is achieved.
Other common areas for vacuum leaks are Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and timing cover gaskets.
Carburetor Set Up and Lean Best Idle Adjustment
Base line Settings
Speed Screw 1 to 11/2 turns
Mixture Screw 2 turns
Your settings with engine runningMixture Screw 2 turns
Speed Screw ____________
Mixture Screw ___________
Mixture Screw ___________
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.
CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.
Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out.
DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.
Back out the screw 2 full turns.
TUNING
- BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
- Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
- The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
- Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
- Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
- Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
- Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
- To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.
Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.
JET KITS are available if needed.
EXAMPLE: With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.
The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.
Subject: weber carb info
weber carb tuning:
http://www.clutchkitcenter.com/media...weber/K610.pdf
˟
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=62976.0
˟
trouble shooting guide:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...ng%20Guide.pdf
˟
carb adjustment guide:
http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf
˟
jetting:
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/62/32/
˟
parts diagram/exploded view:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec..._breakdown.htm
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...3236DGAVEV.pdf
˟
˟
carb set up and lean best idle set up:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm
˟
http://www.poustusa.com/weber_carb_p..._carb_page.htm
Last edited by dropzone; 03-02-2012 at 01:25 PM.
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