GSGALLANT

Hi,

After searching the threads to find out that the motive power bleeder was the best method to flush my brake system, I started making calls to try to find a power bleeder locally. After many calls, I found no local suppliers, and wanted to avoid paying full price + shipping + exchange on Canadian Dollar for one from the US, so I decided to try and figure out a way to make a tool that would essentially do the same thing.

What I came up with works (in my opinion) as well as I would expect the power bleeder to work, and only cost me $15 (Canadian) to build. I started off by buying:

- One flexible plumbing reducing coupling (the large end is just under 2" in diameter and is made to fit over 1 1/2" PVC pipe, and the small end fits over the 3/4" end of the 1/2" to 3/4" metal elbow.)
- One 1/2" to 3/4" metal elbow.
- One 1/2" metal nipple.
- One 1/4" to 1/2" metal reducing coupling.
- One 1/4" male quick connect fitting.
- You also need a source of compressed air with a pressure guage and regulator.

See this link for some photos -> Brake Bleeder Adapter

I assembled them together as shown in the photo called "Adapter".
The photo called "Reservoir" shows what the opening on my brake reservoir looks like.
The photo called "Adapter on Reservoir" shows the adapter installed on the reservoir.

Once I had the adapter built, I removed the cap on the brake reservoir and used a turkey baster to remove as much of the old brake fluid as I could. I then topped up the reservoir (above the max line) with new fluid.

Next, I installed the adapter to the reservoir (See image in link above), and connected my air compressor quick connect fitting to the adapter. I adjusted the regulator to 10-15 psi, then cracked open the rear passenger brake bleeding fitting and let the fluid flow until new fluid came out. I closed the bleeder, and repeated the same on the rear driver's side brakes.

Once the rear brakes were done (bled a little over half a liter of fluid out), I removed the adapter from the brake reservoir and topped the reservoir up again (the level had dropped to approximately the MIN line). I re-installed the adapter, re-adjusted the air regulator to 10-15 psi, then bled the front brakes (passenger side then driver's side).

Once the front brakes were done (bled a little over 1/4 of a liter of fluid out), I removed the adapter from the brake reservoir and topped the reservoir up again (the level had dropped to halfway between the MIN and MAX lines). I then re-installed the reservoir cap and called it a day. The whole process took approximately 1.5 hours (including removing and re-installing wheels.) I used 1 liter of brake fluid.

Hope this helps you guys. I definitely recommed this method for flushing your brakes. The adapter mentioned above will fit the reservoir on 2001 and 2002 4Runners with hydraulic brake boosters. The fill port on reservoirs on systems with vacuum brake boosters may be different.

p1michaud

GSGALLANT
Well I'm glad you did not totally abandon after our first try using a gas can, plastic tubing, silicone, garbage bag, etc...

It was just a matter of time before we ended up with brake fluid all over your garage and my truck!

We will have to bleed the brakes on the Tacoma to see if it works as well as on your 4Runner.
Cheers ,
P
mess from last attempt!

aowRS

Excellent DIY. I use the Motive Black Label bleeder and have been more than pleased with the ease of use. I tend to keep the pressure at around 15 psi as well.

Also, I never fill the bleeder with new fluid - too messy. I simply use it to pressurize the reservoir.

Andreas

MTL_4runner

Nice little setup you figured out.....might be nice to put the regulator right in line on the unit with a release valve.
Glad to know it worked, I might have to rig something up like that for mine too.

All the pro systems use shop air like that to pressurize, works great if you have a compressor.

GSGALLANT

MTL 4runner: Yeah... a pressure relief valve would be a good addition. If my regulator ever fails when I have 100 psi in my air tank, my brake reservoir would explode and send brake fluid all over the place.

I noticed that I didn't use too much air from my tank during the whole flush anyways, so as an alternative, next time I may start with only 20 psi in the air tank. That way, if the regulator fails, the pressure in the reservoir would not go above 20psi (I think the reservoir would survive that). Thanks for the reply.

bigacuralvr

thats awesome!! that just saved me $50 at checkers for something that does the same thing!!
Brett

DoubleZero4x4

Super cool idea. Now we need to come up with Gonculator 2.0 and figure out how to fill a container with new fluid, pressurize it with your adapter and be able to do it without having to "rinse, lather, repeat" by having to take off the adapter piece. All that and still be able to keep the price down. Hmm...

gpcollen1

I usually the tubing and check vlave method on the bleeder and pump the brakes but......

this does seem rather convenient....

aowRS

Awesome solution. I will make something similar but use the existing end attached to my Motive Black Label.

Off to Home Depot...

Andreas

bigacuralvr

quick stupid question, that I think I know the answer to, but here goes:

When using this adaptor, does the car need to be on/running? I've always used the 2 person deal, where the car was on.

Now, I tried this method, but didn't have the car on, and it didn't work!! I got a little fuid out..but not near enough.

Can someone confirm that the cra does/doesn't need to be running/on?

This is on my 99 Runner (I just finished up the tundra upgrade!!)

Brett

GSGALLANT

Nope. The truck doesn't have to be running. How high are you pressurizing the reservoir? 10 to 15 psi should be plenty to give you a good flow of fluid when you crack the bleeder. I wouldn't go above 15 psi... I'm not sure how much above that the reservoir could take before bursting. I've successfully used the adapter on my 2002 4Runner, and my friend's 1999 Tacoma, and we didn't have any problems with low fluid flow.

Shirleyda4runner

Holy Thread Revival

I was reading
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/front-brake-stopped-working-dealer-quoted-2500-fix-89523/

and there was a discussion with the differences between a 01-02 4runner brake system, and a 96-2000 Version of it... would I need to make any changes to the steps taken here (ie Building the bleeder, pressuring the system) I saw that you mentioned a 1999 Tacoma... but I just wanted to know.

GSGALLANT

It should work for you. The only thing you need to make sure is that the size of the flexible reducing coupling you buy fits on your brake fluid reservoir fill hole.

fourtrax

This is my first post and while this sounds like a good idea…
Just a word of Caution.
Most air compressors do not have an in-line dryer and the moisture accumulated during the compression of the air will be released during normal use. Allowing this moisture into your brake system is not a good idea. At the bottom of this link (http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html) is a section on the impact moisture has on brake fluid. I would recommend against pushing air into your brake system..
You can get a hand held vacuum pump for about 35.00 at any auto store and then using the instructions inside make an in-line accumulator (I used a mason jar two tee’s and some vacuum line the same size as the bleeder). to catch the fluid as it is pulled out of each wheel. It took about 30 minutes to set it up and replace the fluid. I pumped a few times and then added more fluid to the reservoir, I repeated this at each wheel until clear fluid came out. I did not have to bleed the lines or have anyone pump the brakes.

GSGALLANT

I agree that air compression will cause moisture to condense out of the air, but most of it will end up in the bottom of your compressor tank as long as you let the air cool before using it (air heats up when you compress it -allowing it to hold more moisture, then moisture condenses out of the air when it cools back down to its dew point temperature.)

Also, you are not "pumping air into your brake system" by using my method, you are simply pressurizing the small air space above your brake fluid in the reservoir, your air is stagnant - not circulating... and at 10-15psi, I doubt that you'd be able to dissolve much moisture into your brake fluid over that short amount of time.

Finally, keep in mind that most (if not all) brake fluid reservoirs are vented to atmosphere, and over time, the brake fluid will pick up significantly more moisture from that than it ever could from using compressed air to pressurize your reservoir for 20 minutes. That is the main reason for flushing out your brake fluid periodically (the moisture absorbed over long periods of time.)

Although the vacuum pump method works fine, it can sometimes be tricky to tell if the air bubbles that are coming out when you bleed your brakes are actually from the system itself, or are being pulled in through the threads of the bleed fitting (threads sometime allow air to move through when you loosen the fitting to bleed the brake line.)

In any case, to each their own, I guess. There are typically many ways to accomplish the same task. Thanks for the info.

04 Rocko Taco

I think this is a great idea. When I change my brakes here in a week or so, Im going to go ahead and fluch out the lines, great work.

Shirleyda4runner

See, it is good to revive a thread every so often.

MTL_4runner

fourtrax does have a good point, but I have to agree with GSGALLANT on the fact that the amount of water absorbed by the fluid under pressure will be negligible compared to being simply vented to the atmosphere as it is normally. I would also point out that many of the pro mechanic setups use shop air in the exact same way, it is assumed that you have a line drier and a water seperator on your lines when you are using them.

I think the bigger caution area should be not to apply to much pressure to the brake reservoir because it is quite easy to overpressure a small volume like that and it could literally explode in a worst case scenario. I still think a blow off valve and an attached regulator would be good safety precautions for a setup like that.

GSGALLANT

I agree. A relief valve is on my list of things to look into buying prior to next time I flush my brakes (based on your reply in January.) I already have a regulator between my compressed air tank and my hose.

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for the thread revival but I thought I'd share my experience. I decided to give this gadget a try so I built one and went to it today. The only difference is, I put a pressure regulator in line on the gadget itself to adjust the pressure better. On the first try I had the fitting a little loose on the reservoir and started to increase the pressure and it popped off (scared the crap out of me!). Adjusted and slowly raised the pressure and ran to the back to start the bleeding process. I had a decent amount of fluid come out so I think the pressure was pretty good. Went around to all four wheels, topped fluid off and hopped in. Unfortunately the pedal was SUPER squishy and my Brake light was on afterwords. So, I grabbed a buddy and we did the two person bleed, finding out there was a TON of air left in the lines. Now, this could be that I didn't put enough pressure on the gadget to push the air out, I don't know. I didn't want to push the pressure too much and cause damage. I will say that it worked great at pushing the fluid out for a complete fluid change, I just had better luck bleeding the system with another person on hand. Next time around I'll try upping the pressure if possible and see how it works. Great idea though!