colsoncj

Ok, I've searched, and I've read the Pirate FAQ..... so that should minimize some flamming. Anyway. on the front hanger relocation, 11 inches sounds like the distance... but you should still check it with a plumb line... herein lies my question...

1)The center of these springs will not be in the same spot when i put the truck's weight on it, the spring will flatten out, moving the center rearward... SO, should i account for this by dropping the plumb line to the center of the springs on there when the truck is off the ground, and how much will this centerline shift be.

Also, ive heard the rear shackle mount moves back 4" using a single shackle setup... SO

2) is the desireable shackle angle at level sitting 45 degrees, or something else? is there an easy way to set this thing up, or is it a tack, install, drop weight, check, jackup, untack, move, retack, check kinda deal?

Thanks for the help!

colsoncj

Sorry, one other thing... is that 11" in a straight line, or 11" level back, then down? I know dumb questions.... but thinking just isnt workin well right now....

Silver_Truck

plumb line it...i did what they said (dont remember the exact distance) and my axle moved back this way you'll make sure its equal on both sides etc... i just went straightforward, also on my truck and on trailtoy1993's we just used a single shackle from the stock mount and its prefectly at about 45*

colsoncj

Plumb line it with no weight, or with weight? How long is you shackle?

colsoncj

Also, did you make the stock u-bolts fit with the o/l spring, or buy/make a flip kit?

I think im goina do a write up with pics for YT on this one... make my contribution

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

My simple rule of thumb is to measure along the arc of the spring (main leaf), center of front eye to center of center bolt hole. Repeat the measurement for the stock springs. Subtract the two measurements and the difference is how far you want to move the center of the bolt hole on the new hanger forward of the existing hanger bolt hole. Why does this work? When the spring is flattened out, you are essentially at full compression and the tire will be stuffed up as far into the wheel well as it is going to go. Assuming you are happy with where the wheel is centered now with the existing springs, it'll be there with the new springs. I've used this with my 56" Alcan springs and it works every time:

colsoncj

One last question... I've heard guys grinding the springs to make the stock toyota u-bolts and plates fit, and others buying a flip kit.... what did you guys do, and why did you chose to go that route?

thanks for the help!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Chevy springs are 2-1/2" wide, stock 2-3/8". Stock u-bolts go over the springs and down. Why go to all that work for new springs and then leave that boat anchor set of u-bolts and spring plates hanging below the axle? Make or buy a flip kit and throw that on.

colsoncj

know of any cheap places to get one.... sky wants 55 for one....

tulsa_97SR5

Hey Cory, one other option that seems to be really popular with the guys on the Marlin Crawler board are f150 springs. Something about not being quite as long as the chevies, and using more, thinner leafs. Kinda makes since that the spring packs would be easier to tune.

colsoncj

already got the chevy's sitting in the back of the truck... picked up a complete set for 50 bones.

Napoleon047

i just measured 11 inches straight forward on the frame, and then put the bolt hole of my hanger straight down, came out perfect.

in this neck of the woods, you will end up cutting the u-bolts off, believe me. i used some autozone u-bolts, $20 for a set of 4, and made my own plates

AJ3

agreed.....flip kit! No choice. You'll be sorry other wise. Plus they are easier to tighten when you check them.

You'll love the chevies....

art

colsoncj

So make or buy... dont really have the time or mat'l to make, so where should i buy from? THANKS GUYS!!!!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Rockstomper has a decent kit and lets you retain stock shock position if you want:
- http://rockstomper.com/catalog/suspen/rear.htm

I've made a few flip kits, plates run about $40 and you can supply your own u-bolts,

or



or you can often find suitable spring plates at a junkyard. I think there are some pointers on what to look for on the Pirate Toyota FAQ.

colsoncj

well they're almost done... hangers are in place and welded... need to do some painting and fab some shock mounts. went with a flip kit, ended up comin across one from a buddy for cheap...

only had one problem the entire install... there was no frame left behind my shackle mounts... had to cut out rusted frame and build a new frame towards the back of the truck... soon as its all done, i'll post pics and a mini writeup of the whole shabang.

Adawg_08

Cn I put the chevies on with only gitting about a 2" lift?Thats all I need. I saw on Pirate that most people get about 2-3 then they add AAL or blocks. All I will have in the front is just BJ spacers. I don't want the rear all jacked up.

colsoncj

I dont know... you could use a shorter shackle which would net you smaller gains, but I wound up with about 3.5" over stock and 4.5" over a saggy rear. With my procomp front, it sits just a tad nose up.

I will say after having them for over a year, I love them and wouldnt have gone any other way!

Adawg_08

how many leaves do you have?

colsoncj

IIRC 3+load