funjumper

I pulled the trigger and bought a conversion package. ORS already had a harness under way for this motor, so I jumped the queue a bit.

Pictures to come. I need to set up a host service and link to them. Any recommendations?

I have a few questions. I didn't get the intake parts. I have the air meter, no ducts or airboxes. What aftermarket cold air intake is the best one for a CARB legal install? If I didn't have to deal with California smog tests, I would fab one up myself.

The motor has 98k on it. It sat for a few years. It isn't pretty, but it turns freely. I stripped it down to the cylinder heads so that I could clean out the leaves, twigs, and other crap. There was dust and dirt at the bottom of the housing for the timing belt. The gaskets for the intake manifold held and the intake passages look OK. I have it down this far. Should I go ahead and pull the heads and have them done? This would give me a chance to take a look at the cylinders. I haven't pulled and re-installed cylinder heads for more than 25 years. I am a bit nervous about it.

I bought the package from Toy Connection, 799 Comstock, Santa Clara, CA, 95054. Phone is 408-988-3479. I dealt with the owner Jeff Olofsen. Nice guy. They do 3.4 conversions as well as run a boneyard. As I go through the motor I find that I am missing a few bolts, etc. Jeff told me to put together a list and he'll ship the parts.

Anyone in the San Luis Obispo area that want to take a look or help with the swap, PM me. I am shooting for the weekend of 3/3/07 for the physical swap.

jskijoe

If SD wasn't so far from there, I'd help out. I want to learn a little more before I dive in to mine. Did you buy the full kit?

funjumper

I am buying the full ORS kit and their crossover, too. I plan to do this swap once. I don't want to spend a lot of time bug-chasing. I want my 4runner back on the road.

jskijoe

Does your 4Runner have an R12 AC system? Are you keeping all the same components? I'm trying to figure out how to keep it without draining the freon and/or switching to R134. My system works great and blows super cold!
Btw, I might call your contact for the parts so I can pick up a 98 x-over (mine is missing for some reason...)because I need that for the ORS x-over right? I don't want to pay a core charge...

Marc P

JSKIJOE--When are you going to start your swap...I would like to check it out. One of these days I will be doing it too.

jskijoe

Probably some time in march or april. I'm recovering from an accident right now and can't drive (or walk) so I've got to get some strength back before I tackle it. I still need to get the full kit from ORS and some more tools. I'll let you know when it gets closer if you want.

Kutter

Good move on deciding to do the 3.4 swap. I just finished mine in Dec 06. It is not too difficult and can be done pretty quick. I did it without even opening the A/C system, only changed the A/C compressor pulley. You will not be disappointed with the performance increase. I think you are smart to use the kit. The fun part is driving it not taking weeks to build it. I have a writeup and pics on 4x4.com under 4runner forum. Search Kutter or 3.4 swap completed there. PM if you have any question.
My engine was a mess like you described yours. I put it in with only minimal cleaning and no trouble.
More power better milage.
I have an Injen air intake now on the 3.4. Don't know about CARB compliance.

funjumper

In the quote I got from ORS on 2/20/07, they provided the following information -

begin quoted text >>>

the crossover pipe is $310.00, the core charge is $55.00

<<<end quoted text

By the time you track down a crossover and ship it to them, you might have spent more time and effort than it's worth.

I'll pay the core charge up front if I have to. I don't think it will be an issue to get the crossover from Toy Connection. It is part of the conversion package.

Localmotion

for pic hosting go to imageshack.us

Pozi

I have a crossover pipe from my 3.4L swap that I am not using because I went with Downey headers...also because the crossover was not available when I did my swap. If someone is interested in the crossover for a core drop me a PM.

funjumper

I pulled the water pump last night. I have some questions about the block. The water pump mounting area is pretty corroded. The motor sat for a few years and was messy and dirty. The moisture seems to have infiltrated the gap between the pump and the block, causing the corrosion.

I have attached a picture.

Can this be cleaned up without sending it out for resurfacing?
The surface is pretty rough, even after using green scotchbrite pad on a small area.

funjumper

I took the intake manifolds and valve covers to be hot tanked last night.
The lower manifold had some corrosion around the injector holes. We'll see if the corrosion comes off clean or if I need a new manifold.

I did some research on the water pump mounting area corrosion issue. I'll take a dremel tool with a wire brush to it and see if it comes clean.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

jskijoe

How about using some CLR calcium,lime,rust cleaner with a small brush? I'm wondering if mine is the same as yours. My motor's been sitting for about year and a half now.

funjumper

I cleaned up the motor with a small wire brush, a 3" wire brush in a drill , and a pile of shop rags. It looks a lot better. The corrosion where the water pump mounts is gone. The surface is uneven and a bit rough. I am told that with the gasket for the water pump, and some sealer, and I should be good to go.

I'll be picking up the intake manifolds and valve covers for the place I had them hot-tanked. They may still be stained a bit. I would paint them, but the throttle body is a bit rough looking. It would look weird to have nice painted manifolds and a rough looking throttle body. Any good aluminum cleaners to spruce up the throttle body? All the exterior cleaning of the motor is making it look pretty good. It would be nice if the top of the motor looked good.

I have been using a wire wheel in my bench grinder to clean up the nuts, bolts, and brackets. I bought the right size taps and dies to chase out the holes and clean up the studs. The dies may not get much use as the wire wheel is fast. Really fast. Leather gloves and safety glasses are a must. Bolts can fly a long way when you lose your grip. When they bounce past a sleeping dog the dog wakes up in a hurry...

I'll have the gasket kit tomorrow. I'll be starting re-assembly of the 3.4 soon.

I would have gotten more done this weekend, but I had to do the rear brakes on my pickup truck.

funjumper

I haven't decided yet - Scoop or body lift?

What do you all think?

Dan.3

scoop. Im trying to find a good one when I do my swap

funjumper

I got the parts back from being hot tanked. The intake manifold (the part that the fuel injectors go in to) cleaned up OK. The bad news is that the right side of the manifold was very corroded and the manifold is toast. I suspected as much when I took it off.

I sent the injectors in to WitchHunter Performance in Bothell, WA for cleaning and calibration. The injectors that were in the corroded part of the manifold didn't look that great. Gordon at WitchHunter will check them out. I may have to replace a few.

Anyone upgrade to a URD kit or have any injectors laying around? Want to sell a few for cheap?

Jeff at Toy Connection will replace the manifold, no problem. So far all of my dealings with him have been great.

Pozi

Hey funjumper. I live in Poulsbo (a ferry ride away) and have done the swap. If you need help with the swap feel free to email me.

funjumper

I picked up the exhaust manifolds and a few other items. The Jet-Hot Coating looks pretty nice on the manifolds.

The valve covers didn't look very nice when I cleaned them up. Some careful masking and some rattle-can paint makes for a nice look. My 4runner is black.

I'll be having fun cleaning parts today.

While I have the engine stripped down this far it is very tempting to take the heads off for a good look-see of the cylinders and the heads. I have the full gasket kit. Should I go for it?

TNRabbit

I'ts far easier to get into the engine NOW than after you have it all back together, believe me! You'll need new head bolts...aren't they TTY on the 3.4 as well?