UNR.Grad

Has anyone done this, please PM if you have, I need some help.

Jason B

You need one of these to hook up a sub and amp up to your factory deck. A line output converter.



The wires on the left are - left and right + and - leads from your speakers. They are then downconverted to pre-amp levels (output via the RCA's).

The single wire by the RCA's is a ground.

SoCal4Running

You can also buy an amp that has "line level input" wich is when you connect the speaker output wires from your head unit to the amp. It doesnt work as well "more distortion" as RCA connections but is the best bet when your stock head does not have RCA outputs.

bamachem

Don't waste your time with a line level converter. You'll end up with the same distortion and you get by just using the line level inputs on the amp. Why buy another $20 adapter when the amp has one built in??? Anyway, I have a 10" Kicker sub in a custom box running off a small 2CH Pioneer amp that I got for cheap at Wal-Mart. It has line level inputs, and puts out about 100 Watts RMS when bridged into 4ohms. Yesterday, I picked up a DUAL (brand) amp from Best Buy for my nephew and it was $59 as an open box buy. Regular price is $69. It's 170 watts RMS bridged into 4ohms and has a built in crossover (A MUST UNLESS YOU HAVE A SEPERATE ONE) and a adjustable bass boost.

-Make sure to look at the RMS power of an amp and NOT peak or max power.

-Make sure to get a 4ohm sub NOT AN 8 OHM!!!

-Make sure to get the box completely sealed - I MEAN PERFECTLY SEALED - then add some polyester fiberfill (pillow stuffing from wally world) and then run a bead of caulking or silicone around the edge of the sub before you mount it to get a good seal.

-Get a wiring kit from wal-mart for less than $12 and also a spool of large gauge speaker wire when you go get the fiberfill.

-Mount the amp under a seat to keep it hidden and run all wiring under the carpet to the cargo area for the sub.

deznoches

and dont forget to mount your box before you go froading

SoCal4Running

Thats what I was trying to say, my 250 watt PPI amp has them built in. I run a 6" Bazzoka, and two 6x9 speakers in the fron door, two 4" in the dash , and two 6" in the rear where the roll bar is. Its loud enough to make the rear view miror unusable

bamachem

Check out ebay for decent prices... Also, check out www.tweeter.com and look at the kicker outlet section. Kicker makes great subs and amps, and you'll be hard pressed to beat the prices they have. Get a 210 watt amp with a Kicker competition 12" sub for $170 with free shipping. Get the same amp and a 10" sub for $160. You can get the same pioneer amp that I have for about $50 on ebay and a pioneer sub for about $40 at circuit city as a cheaper alternative. Circuit City also has a deal where you but two subs at $39 each and get a free sub box. The pioneer subs are OK if you're looking to add bass but not interested in a competition system...

UNR.Grad

How can that fit under the seat, seems liek there's not enough room.

I already have the system components, here they are, let me know what you think:

Sub:

Kicker Solo-Baric L7 S10L74

Amp:

Rockford Fosgate 551s

I have a bandpass box also waiting, I've had these components since Christmas but haven't had time to install them. I'm thinking I'm going to upgrade the headunit though, these are all top of the line components and I want them to sound good. What do you guys think?

If I buy a headunit, all I will need is RCA cable to go from headunit to amp, power wire to go from battery to amp, and a power on/off wire from the amp to some power source (I can jsut tap the rear 12v for that can't I)? That is pretty much what an amp kit is correct? I have all of that waiting too, just don't know if I need anythign else, the power wire is 4 gauge, it's made to handle some power. Do you think I need a capacitor?

bamachem

Naah, you don't need a capacitor. You also need a ground for the amp. Make sure that the power lead from the battery has an inline fuse or you'll be sorry later. BTW- that is going to rock - but I wouldn't put a solobaric in a bandpass box. They are designed for SMALL sealed enclosures to save space.

Henryv

If you're gonna do all that definately go with a new headunit. The stock one will leave you dissappointed and you'll probably want to change it out later which means more work.

UNR.Grad

This is the box I have, it's vented not a true bandpass...

Do you suggest I get a different one?

User 051420

Thats a neat box, be certain to re-caulk that box as most pre-built boxes leak. You don't want a leaky box.

Also, what kind of music do you listen to? A bandpass is for big, boomy, inaccurate bass. A ported box yields a mix betweek tight, accurate bass and a little more boom for the buck.

Personally I run a sealed box, and I'm interested in building a custom ported box that covers the rear floor and fires up, with some sort of material protecting the subs from cargo.

UNR.Grad

I listen to rap mostly, but sometimes I'll switch to punk like AFI or something. I wanted a box that sounded pretty clean, but didn't take away too much bass. The box I got was a good median right?

User 051420

Exactly. That box should suit you perfectly. I also listen to mostly rap and sometimes (believe it or not), wish my bass was a little less accurate, and sharp.

UNR.Grad

Ok, doing the install today.

I decided to just use the stock headunit for now, but need a little more help guys...

1. What's the best place for me to tap my speaker wire for the low-level/RCA converter?

2. What's the best place to tap for the amp's on/off switch?

3. Do I need anything special to remove the stock headunit, or do I even need to remove it?

4. Do I run the wires under the carpet next to the door seams, that's what I did in my old explorer and it worked well.

5. What's the best way to fasten the sub down? Can I secure it to the floor with something, or should I just use plain old cargo tie-down straps?

Thanks alot guys, wish me luck!!

*Moderators please don't move this to Audio, I immediate help and I won't get that in the Audio forum

Adam F

Actually, it's called a "high level input". Line level is RCA.

If you find an amp that has the high level input, then you have no need for a line level converter, as it has it built in. One less component to hook up is a good thing.

ksig4runner

yotas also have a built in amp. i have a 2nd gen and the rear speaerks have their own little amps right behind the speakers in the rear panel. someone also thouhgt it would be a good idea to cut (probably with a handsaw or something horrible) through the plastic to put in 6x9's instead of the 4's ( i think thos were stock) that were there. i found that out when i replaced the speakers front and rear. you would also be amazed at how much car audio stuff is marked up at best buy (im an employee *wink wink).

User 051420

If you haven't already done the install:

1. I'd tap the speaker wires from behind the deck, and run the RCA's to the back.

2. You'll tap the on/off (Remote Turn On Lead) from the Power antenna wire (if it's on in all states...cd, radio, etc..). If not, use any switched lead, but note the amp will be on even if the radio isn't.

3. You'll likely need to remove the head unit for access to the wiring, and no you won't need anything special to do so. I suggest you get a wiring diagram from http://www.installdr.com in order to tap the correct wires. I'm willing to bet you'll need to tap the wires on the outboard side of the amp, not the stock deck.

4. You can run the power wires anywhere you want, but make sure you run the RCA (audio) wires AT LEAST 18" away from them. Preferably on the other side of your truck. This reduces noise.

5. Tie downs....You've got me there, I have no idea. Mine are pretty freakin heavy and dont move around that much.

Now may be a good time to re-ground your head unit to the body. Ever since I got my subs, I've had a terrible ground loop noise through my speakers. This WILL be getting fixed today, FINALLY.

Good luck!!!

toy_yoda

im trying to do the same thing...

do i cut the two (rear) speaker wires that go into the stereo, then splice them with the positive/negative of the line converter...

or do you get the signal sopmewhere else... ive seen people make mention of the stock amp.

i have a 96 SR5 with everything but leather, and at first glance yesterday, i think the amp for my stock head is a little silver box under the head unit.

here is what im going to attempt

connecting the corresponding wires to the negative and positive for the right and left rear speakers at the back of the deck, connect the 2 grounds to the metal frame that holds the stock deck, connect the L/R rca's run them down the driver side, connect the power direct to the positive battery pole (with fuse) and run it through the firewall down the passenger side.

connect to my 300 watt amp and subs.

although i am a musician and have alot of experience with guitar and home amplifiers, i have never attempted to mess with car audio... so please someone respond with a cease and dissist if im missing something.

this place kicks arse by the way... im happy to be here, i have an old '78 25th anniversary vette (all stock) so i frequent a couple of vette boards, but this is the best toyota forum ive came across!

frankenrunner

what's up "unr.frosh" & "toy yoda" ?!?

allow me to shine some additional light on your installation dilemmas w/a little clarification of the pointers & tips that have already been given:

(a) tap into the factory speaker wires "after" they have left their built-in amps(even though their signals will be reduced for conversion, the stronger the signal that you send to the new amp the better, it wiil take care of the rest)& are on their way to the speaker itself;

(b) the remote power, &/or amp on-off lead, can be tapped directly into the factory fuse box's (located in the drivers side kick panel & accessed by 1st. removing the rocker panel/door threshold strip, then the retaining nut for the kick panel itself) "radio" fuse slot (which happens to be what it is there for);

(c) despite the nay saying of "bamachem" (sorry brah), you definitely WILL need a "capacitor" (cap), which should be mounted &/or connected to the amp within 18" of it, or you'll suffer dimming lights, battery drain, overly taxed charging system, etc., etc.;

(d) both the amp & the cap should be grounded directly to the body, preferrably in the same location, right where they are at;

(e) i think that you already know about running a main lead from the battery, through the firewall to the cap first, then the amp...after that it's just line-in (the rca's from the factory speakers)/line-out (the heavy gauge speaker wire from the amp to sub) & yes, do try to keep the speaker wires a-w-a-y from the power & ground wires to avoid interference;

(d) lastly ( as long as i have'nt left anything out), i'd just use a pair of those solid band, bungee cords strecthed across the top of the sub enclosure from one cargo tie down ring (located on all four corners of the rear bed area) to the other & just remove the enclosure when i'm closing shop for the evening (my "box" always goes w/me), which is how i do it.

hope this helps you out & enjoy the good vibrations!

frankenrunner
(a 2nd. nature audiophile)