Extra cab. rear cubby hole speakers.
08-13-2005, 11:30 AM
#3
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Caulk all of the joints with a good silicone based caulk then line the entire interior with DynaMat or similar sound proofing material, or simply use fiberfil (like that which pillows are made of) attached with some spray adhesive.
Once you've got that done take some measurements, allowing for at least a 1/2" of overlap to give you a lip to put screws into to mount the panel to the body, and cut a 1/2" to 3/4" panel of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) or solid birch plywood if you prefer, but no OSB (Oriented Strand Board).
Then, using the stensile that was provided with the speaker(s), mark your pattern onto the panel and cut it out (*note: if you use the speaker itself to pattern with, be sure to draw another line at least 1/2" inside of the line that you traced around the outter part of the basket's rim and cut that line instead).
After you've cut it out, mount your speaker(s) to it and then line the backside of it with the same DynaMat or similar material or fiberfill and then mount the entire assembly to the rear cab body.
You've now created a fully sealed and insulated enclosure that will reward your efforts with great sound from your speaker(s).
I've generalized these instructions so that they will be applicable to any number of body configurations, as long as you've got a cavity or "cubby hole" somewhere in your rides' body and a desire to fill it with some sound.
Once you've got that done take some measurements, allowing for at least a 1/2" of overlap to give you a lip to put screws into to mount the panel to the body, and cut a 1/2" to 3/4" panel of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) or solid birch plywood if you prefer, but no OSB (Oriented Strand Board).
Then, using the stensile that was provided with the speaker(s), mark your pattern onto the panel and cut it out (*note: if you use the speaker itself to pattern with, be sure to draw another line at least 1/2" inside of the line that you traced around the outter part of the basket's rim and cut that line instead).
After you've cut it out, mount your speaker(s) to it and then line the backside of it with the same DynaMat or similar material or fiberfill and then mount the entire assembly to the rear cab body.
You've now created a fully sealed and insulated enclosure that will reward your efforts with great sound from your speaker(s).
I've generalized these instructions so that they will be applicable to any number of body configurations, as long as you've got a cavity or "cubby hole" somewhere in your rides' body and a desire to fill it with some sound.
Last edited by 94x4; 08-13-2005 at 11:48 AM.
08-14-2005, 02:50 AM
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There's only three (3) ways in life to do things:
1. The right way;
2. The wrong way; &
3. The halfarse way.
The choice is yours to make and it's not that much work or as hard to do as it reads, it just "sounds" like it. If you're use to the hand tools involved and not afraid of a little effort, you could easily knock this mod out in an hour and a half, at the most.
1. The right way;
2. The wrong way; &
3. The halfarse way.
The choice is yours to make and it's not that much work or as hard to do as it reads, it just "sounds" like it. If you're use to the hand tools involved and not afraid of a little effort, you could easily knock this mod out in an hour and a half, at the most.
Last edited by 94x4; 08-14-2005 at 02:51 AM.
08-16-2005, 02:14 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by jayhackett03
wow. thats alot of work.
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08-16-2005, 03:41 PM
#8
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I did basically what 94x4 said, but didn't do the dynamat. I'm going to do it now. I have a pretty good rattle in the passenger side panel. HERE'S the link. It took me about 2 hours, not including running wires. I used 3/4" Plywood & routed down the edge to sit flush with the plastic.
Last edited by Bassinfool; 08-16-2005 at 03:42 PM.
08-16-2005, 09:10 PM
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The Dynamat is a sound dampening and isolation material used to prevent nuisances such as the "rattle" that Bassinfool speaks of, nuisances that you'll experience from turning it up and the sound effecting the structural irregularities of the cab's construction.
"Sealing" the area is required to insure that you get good, clean speaker response/sound and improved mid-range and bass response for, again, cleaner sound and/or less distortion.
p.s. Sorry about all of the "detail"..., I did'nt want to leave anything out and run the risk of possibly leaving someone hanging when they're in the middle of it or find out that they've got to get back in there again to do something about that damn rattle (sorry Bassin) and yes, perhaps a weekend or day's worth of work would be involved here for those who are doing this as first-timers..., but hey, it's worth it. 
"Sealing" the area is required to insure that you get good, clean speaker response/sound and improved mid-range and bass response for, again, cleaner sound and/or less distortion.
p.s. Sorry about all of the "detail"..., I did'nt want to leave anything out and run the risk of possibly leaving someone hanging when they're in the middle of it or find out that they've got to get back in there again to do something about that damn rattle (sorry Bassin) and yes, perhaps a weekend or day's worth of work would be involved here for those who are doing this as first-timers..., but hey, it's worth it.
Last edited by 94x4; 08-17-2005 at 08:26 AM.
08-17-2005, 05:16 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by Bassinfool
I did basically what 94x4 said, but didn't do the dynamat. I'm going to do it now. I have a pretty good rattle in the passenger side panel. HERE'S the link. It took me about 2 hours, not including running wires. I used 3/4" Plywood & routed down the edge to sit flush with the plastic.
08-17-2005, 10:22 AM
#13
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I used the 3M spray-on adhesive & stapled the carpet around the edges of the plywood so it doesn't peel off in a couple years. (I did this about 3 years ago.)
08-17-2005, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bassinfool
I used the 3M spray-on adhesive & stapled the carpet around the edges of the plywood so it doesn't peel off in a couple years. (I did this about 3 years ago.)
08-17-2005, 07:32 PM
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a local guy told me i could just cut holes in the plastic cubby hole covers and mount the speakers. i was really weary of that idea. just so i'm right, that's not a good idea, right?
08-17-2005, 10:48 PM
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You could do that, but then there would be concern about whether or not the plastic panels would be structurally strong enough to support the speaker once you've cut it, plus there may also be a resonance issue in that you would probally get better resonance from the wood than you would from the plastic, which is probally why woofer boxes and such are primarily made out of wood.
08-17-2005, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bassinfool
I did basically what 94x4 said, but didn't do the dynamat. I'm going to do it now. I have a pretty good rattle in the passenger side panel. HERE'S the link. It took me about 2 hours, not including running wires. I used 3/4" Plywood & routed down the edge to sit flush with the plastic.
08-18-2005, 03:37 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Silver_Truck
hmmm...that looks very familiar. Exact same way I did mine, except I've got 6x9s back there. Good work
a local guy told me i could just cut holes in the plastic cubby hole covers and mount the speakers. i was really weary of that idea. just so i'm right, that's not a good idea, right?
08-18-2005, 06:12 PM
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Bassinfool "round" speakers are better in reproducing sound than "oval" ones as they are better designed to spread the signal evenly across the cone..., and thanks for pitching in with the heads up about the plastic panel's lack of structural strength to insure a good "seal".
09-14-2005, 07:51 PM
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