Some new SAS questions.
11-02-2003, 04:42 PM
#41
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Yep, they won't work. I had to throw a perfectly good set away as well. Actually, I sold them on Ebay. You can get more for those that you'll pay for some new FJ40 rotors.
11-02-2003, 04:47 PM
#42
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First there is plenty of lift for 33’s, 35’s w/ a bodylift.
You will need to make shock mounts for 20-40 bucks.
I did forget about steering 400 for hy-steer.
That price included a driveshaft but a lot of people use square shafts w/ good luck.
You can do gears and lockers later, there is no need to do them w/ the sas.
The knuckle bearings and wheel bearings are not needed just like wheel spacers. A steering stabilizer is not needed but is only another 30-50.
Ifs rears are all the same width, 4 or 6 cyl. It is a three inch difference no big deal.
i am not trying to argue, just sharing my sas experience.
You will need to make shock mounts for 20-40 bucks.
I did forget about steering 400 for hy-steer.
That price included a driveshaft but a lot of people use square shafts w/ good luck.
You can do gears and lockers later, there is no need to do them w/ the sas.
The knuckle bearings and wheel bearings are not needed just like wheel spacers. A steering stabilizer is not needed but is only another 30-50.
Ifs rears are all the same width, 4 or 6 cyl. It is a three inch difference no big deal.
i am not trying to argue, just sharing my sas experience.
Last edited by robrocketanski; 11-02-2003 at 04:51 PM.
11-02-2003, 07:38 PM
#43
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Originally posted by robrocketanski
First there is plenty of lift for 33’s, 35’s w/ a bodylift.
You will need to make shock mounts for 20-40 bucks.
I did forget about steering 400 for hy-steer.
That price included a driveshaft but a lot of people use square shafts w/ good luck.
You can do gears and lockers later, there is no need to do them w/ the sas.
The knuckle bearings and wheel bearings are not needed just like wheel spacers. A steering stabilizer is not needed but is only another 30-50.
Ifs rears are all the same width, 4 or 6 cyl. It is a three inch difference no big deal.
i am not trying to argue, just sharing my sas experience.
First there is plenty of lift for 33’s, 35’s w/ a bodylift.
You will need to make shock mounts for 20-40 bucks.
I did forget about steering 400 for hy-steer.
That price included a driveshaft but a lot of people use square shafts w/ good luck.
You can do gears and lockers later, there is no need to do them w/ the sas.
The knuckle bearings and wheel bearings are not needed just like wheel spacers. A steering stabilizer is not needed but is only another 30-50.
Ifs rears are all the same width, 4 or 6 cyl. It is a three inch difference no big deal.
i am not trying to argue, just sharing my sas experience.
Yes you can do gears and lockers later, but if they're going to 33s or 35s, they NEED to regear.
If they can find a used 82-85 front end then a COMPLETE rebuild is required. That's a 20 year old front end, with bearings, seals and gaskets that are also 20 years old. Unless that front end is torn apart to check the condition, the user is only asking for trouble and likely failure. Noone should do an SAS without rebuilding the used front end from bearings to rebuilding the knuckles, hubs etc.
Axle width IS a big in - in my opinion.
I understand that you're giving people a low end way to do an SAS, but I think it's unfair to think they can complete an SAS without doing all the other stuff. I think it's important to know everything they can expect to run into.
I'm not arguing either, just giving my opinion for the benefit of those considering this option, they should get all the input they can.
If I'd known then, what I know now, I'd tell everyone who's doing an SAS and really wants to wheel, to skip the Toy parts all together and go right to Dana 60s... The toy stuff just isn't strong enough... :o(
11-03-2003, 08:48 AM
#44
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excellent point, there are alot of different ways to do things. i have always had stock 4.10 or 4.30 gears (even now w/ 38's) and have never needed to replace any bearings in my axles but that doesnt mean its right
but if you are on a budget.....i did my sas w/ an attitude of do what i can b/c its better than sitting around planning it like i did for three years. that was stupid, i wish now i would have cut first and questioned later.
but if you are on a budget.....i did my sas w/ an attitude of do what i can b/c its better than sitting around planning it like i did for three years. that was stupid, i wish now i would have cut first and questioned later.
11-13-2003, 10:02 AM
#45
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Shock Mounts
The Ford F-250 mounts worked great for me, and at $33 a pair it was a deal. Hey robrocke how did those rear springs work out in front. I tryed using the stock front springs off the donor truck and that caused my pitman arm to hit my tie-rod just on little bumps, and would have allowed no flex. Have you finished your project yet. Let me know if you run or ran into that spring problem. I wound up using 3'' recurves and it does great. I agree that the best thing I ever did was to just start cuting like a mad-man. It pretty much forces you do do the project!
Last edited by lcopelan22; 11-13-2003 at 10:06 AM.
11-13-2003, 10:23 AM
#46
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To solve the problem of the pitman arm hitting the tie rod, move the steering box forward a little. That'll get the clearance you need without having to go to a shortened pitman arm.
11-18-2003, 07:41 PM
#49
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we all broke
Originally posted by OneTrickToy
Just a little background on why....
First, I'm a college student. I don't have the money to drop down on a complete SAS. If I wasn't already in debt by $2,000 then I'd do it.
Second, I need to replace my CV's, and both Christmas and my birthday are coming up. If I could keep the swap simple and somewhat cheap, then I could most likely do it during my winter break.
The one problem I've come up with is finding axles with the right spline count, diameter, and length. Does any one know where to find some axles that would work? This seems to be my only hangup.
Obviously down the road when I'm done with school and out of debt, I'd replace the 7.5" axle with an 8" or better. But seeing as how I'm in debt, and I just got a locker, I want to check out my other options before I drop some money on new CV's.
Just a little background on why....
First, I'm a college student. I don't have the money to drop down on a complete SAS. If I wasn't already in debt by $2,000 then I'd do it.
Second, I need to replace my CV's, and both Christmas and my birthday are coming up. If I could keep the swap simple and somewhat cheap, then I could most likely do it during my winter break.
The one problem I've come up with is finding axles with the right spline count, diameter, and length. Does any one know where to find some axles that would work? This seems to be my only hangup.
Obviously down the road when I'm done with school and out of debt, I'd replace the 7.5" axle with an 8" or better. But seeing as how I'm in debt, and I just got a locker, I want to check out my other options before I drop some money on new CV's.
we are all broke, i got lay off from my job on august of 2002, i was unemployed for a year, in that time i decided that what better time to do a swap on my daily driver truck than when i don't have to go anywhere??? right?, so i just got my credit card and started calling a few places, while i was waiting on parts i cut everything off, it took me a whole month casue i was waiting around 2 weeks on parts, plus i didn't have anybody helping me, i don't have a garage either so if weather was bad i couldn't work on the truck. if you really want a SAS truck you'll do anything to get it. I'm still paying my credit card but i'm still buying parts for my truck too, all my $$$ goes to my truck thou!!!
stop waisting money on fixing ifs crap, just chop it off and get it over with, don't think about it cause you'll never do it.
just my opinion!
Oz.
Last edited by OZtaco; 11-18-2003 at 07:44 PM.
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