Getting into Welding/Fab

Bill · 10-01-2007, 08:11 PM

Now that I've got some space, I'd like to get into Welding/fabrication. Nothing big, fancy or professional, just for fun and to be able to make stuff that I need (sliders, bumpers, brackets, fix a bike frame, mabey build a small trailer, etc). But I'm not totally sure where to start.

I've got a grinder(both bench and hand), can get my hands on a miter saw pretty easy(beg dad). Figure a bender would be important(Princess auto?), as well as a drill press. But I'm not sure on what I should be looking for in a welder.

I've done a bit or Arc Welding before. But I'd like to be able to run on 110, as that's what my garage is wired for.

Mig looks really cool, but not sure what I should be looking for.

I'm kinda leaning towards Oxy-Acetylene. I've done some "sodering" with it before(not actual welding). Plus I figure it can double as a torch for cutting out flat steel too. But big tanks...could I get away with smaller ones, how long do they last?

I'm going to keep doing my own research. But any imput would be great!

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jjrgr21 · 10-01-2007, 08:21 PM

i've got a wire feed that can convert to mig. but i always just use the wire feed, its strong enough for me.

start with sliders

Yota Runner · 10-01-2007, 09:35 PM

My step-dad has a 220 mig welder...I like mig the best for fabbing. I am no pro by any means but I can run a decent bead. I am working on welding the legs, plates and gussets on my sliders I got from Wab Fab Then I will weld them up to the frame. I am also working on building some knock offs of the sonoran steel shackle hangers. Grinder, Welder, Chop saw, and drill press are pretty much what I have been using lately.

amgraham · 10-01-2007, 10:04 PM

MIG is your best bet for learning how to weld as it is the easiest to get a decent weld out of. I have a 140 amp 110V that does fine and will weld up to 1/4". I have an oxy/acet torch as well but just use that for cutting. It's a good idea on the chop saw, grinder, and drill press. I also got a cheap band saw from Harbor Freight ($150 IIRC) and it is slow but cuts very clean. Here's some stuff I've done/am doing to give you an idea of what can be done in a backyard:

AxleIke · 10-02-2007, 08:05 AM

Oxy-Acetylene is a difficult art to master.

You have to heat the metal before welding, to red hot. This means you can EASILY warp your project, expecially welding anything over 3/16" thick. A good welder can do it without any problem, but a beginner could end up trashing the whole deal.

110 volt mig is easy. Plus, you can wire 220 if you really want to, its very simple.

Bill · 10-02-2007, 04:06 PM

SAIT (Southern Alberta Institute of Technology) offers a night class on welding/fab basics that I think I'm going to sign up for.

I think for now I'll talk to my dad and see if I can steal...err borrow his little 110 Mig. play around on some scrap steel for now.

rowdy235 · 10-04-2007, 09:33 PM

I wouldn't recommend using the oxy-fuel for welding in the kind of fabrication situations you are going to see. It could be done, but it would be inefficient with smaller bottles it would be even worse. As of now, I have a little clarke 95E welder, runs on 110v, great stick welder. I have always welded stick, so I have became very good at it, and have no intention of switching to MIG. Right now I have an Oxy-Propane torch, as I decided a few moths ago to stop renting the acetylene cylinder, because my local welding store was ripping me off. Oxy-Propane is limited for cutting, and you can't weld with it, but it cuts most of my metal fine. I can't remember what size my oxygen cylinder is, but its around 4' tall, 1' diameter. I bought it from the high school used. The propane cylinder is a run-of-the mill RV cylinder, something like 20lbs. Betweeen the two, I have a good fabrication setup.

fork · 10-04-2007, 10:05 PM

I'm in this same boat. I am trying to learn but my local resources for doing so are pretty limited. The college I am currently attending won't let me take any welding courses. They have repeatedly told me that the only way I can take them is if I change my major to welding exclusively. So when I'm not in school I'm usually at a local shop here trying to mess with metals

So far I've only used TIG and oxy-acetylene.

ozziesironmanoffroad · 10-04-2007, 10:12 PM

welding is complicated. just take your time. if you have to lay a huge uneven bead, then just sand down once its done. ive done a couple minor weld jobs.. welded some metal to my buddys trailer for hauling quads, put up steel railings on it, and the welds are very ugly, but strong. depending on the type of welder, GET A WELDER FACEMASK.

KevinInSac · 10-04-2007, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fork

I'm in this same boat. I am trying to learn but my local resources for doing so are pretty limited. The college I am currently attending won't let me take any welding courses. They have repeatedly told me that the only way I can take them is if I change my major to welding exclusively. So when I'm not in school I'm usually at a local shop here trying to mess with metals

So far I've only used TIG and oxy-acetylene.

I just found that out too. I have to be some type of engineering major. Uber lame... But, I'm undeclared now. So I guess I could decalre for a semester or two.

gearbox · 10-05-2007, 02:26 AM

oops, double post

gearbox · 10-05-2007, 02:42 AM

Definitely staying away from OAW. You wouldn't even cut with an multi-use oxy-fuel set-up if you get yourself a plasma. I hate explosive gases. OAW is just a pain in the ass. There's very good reason it's not in use today. Slow, hot, tedious, potentially dangerous, poor quality.

If you learn stick (SMAW) and get good at it you'll do better at everything else. MIG and FCAW are great. MIG is clean and FAST and lays good welds. FCAW is hot and a bit messy, but puts in good welds too.

I recommend you sit down and draw out a list of everything you need. Add up how much it will cost and multiply that by 1.5 or more. Add up how much space it will require and double it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinInSac

I just found that out too. I have to be some type of engineering major. Uber lame... But, I'm undeclared now. So I guess I could decalre for a semester or two.

Go to ARC. Take WELD300 with Mark Reese. That's the best instructor for intro classes: informative, encouraging and not boring. Then take the specialized classes: fabrication, FCAW, MIG, TIG, non-ferrous metals, etc..
You can even take a "projects" class, which I assume just means you pay to use their facilities, which would be an awesome way to learn and develop skills and experience.
ARC has dozens of machines, from SMAW to GMAW to FCAW to GTAW to Oxy, plus angle grinders, rail-mounted OFC, a plasma cutter, etc..

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozziesironmanoffroad

depending on the type of welder, GET A WELDER FACEMASK.

Actually, get a hood for any arc welding, plus a leather long-sleeved welding jackets. I used a Nomex fire-retardant shop coat and would still get spatter stuck in the crook of the elbow.
Auto-dark helmets for light/casual usage are just $50-60 at Harbor Freight.

deserttoy84 · 10-05-2007, 10:43 AM

Im taking a welding class right now in college, It covers mig,tig,stick welding. So far ive only done stick welding and i like it a lot. If you dont have the money for a good mig welder dont waste your time buying one. Your welds will not only look horrible but cheap mig welders just dont get the penetration. Trying learning on a stick welding, If can be a little frustrating in the beginning but its easy to catch on. A good stick welder like a lincoln 220v can weld pretty much anything and they run about 250 brand new.

Travisfab · 10-05-2007, 10:59 AM

Pick up the oxy-acetylene unit and use it for cutting, not welding. I would highly recommend starting with MIG welding. If your are going to make the investment, you may as well pick up a 220 machine. A 110 will do most everything you need, but as your skills increase, you will want the power and penetration of the 220. I've heard many times that you should never trust a 110 for any sort of cage work.

I am self taught. I bought a miller 175 and just went at it. I studied techniques on the internet and I very confident with my skills now. It just takes practice.

AlphaOffRoad · 10-05-2007, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travisfab

I've heard many times that you should never trust a 110 for any sort of cage work.

Not always true. I will agree that I prefer a 220V over a 110V for most everything structural [body/sheetmetal the 110V is great].

Purchase a welder that you can grow with. Something ~175amps + will allow you do just about everything. Gas is a must IMO [75/25]. Oh, and I'm reffering to a MIG setup... Check into refurbished Hobart/Miller's - Had a good friend pick one up for a great price, and it works extremely well! HTH!

Gator · 10-05-2007, 11:58 AM

What do ya'll think about this welder?

http://cgi.ebay.com/LINCOLN-SP135T-M...QQcmdZViewItem

44Runner · 10-06-2007, 07:16 AM

I agree with the others. Start off with a 220 machine. Stick or MIG. I prefer MIG for a general use garage machine. Look at the Hobart 183 (i think that's the current model number). GREAT intro welder that you will probably never out grow either. Can do most everything.

algranger · 10-06-2007, 07:41 AM

i just started about 2 months ago with a lincoln gassless wire feed. they say it will weld up to 1/4 in. steel and thats fine for my trail armor. it's super easy and it can upgrade to gas. after using $2500 migs at my class i have decided to at least upgrade this one to mig. it was only 400 bucks plus a mask (it comes with one but it SUCKS.) here is a link if you wanna check it out.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125

Travisfab · 10-06-2007, 10:03 AM

Can you get clean welds with that flux-core wire? I've never used anything but gas.

gametom · 10-06-2007, 10:32 AM

you need some kinda of gas to get a clean weld. the flux core stuff looks like crap, and do your self a favor and buy a auto darkening helm from harbor fright it makes a huge difference. as far as 110 migs go i like the Lincoln models B/c if you buy a few parts you can weld aluminum. Welding is easy it just takes practice. i taught someone to mig weld in about a hour and after he welded for a few hours he was good enuff to weld up a set of sliders.

gearbox · 10-06-2007, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gametom

you need some kinda of gas to get a clean weld. the flux core stuff looks like crap, and do your self a favor and buy a auto darkening helm from harbor fright it makes a huge difference. as far as 110 migs go i like the Lincoln models B/c if you buy a few parts you can weld aluminum. Welding is easy it just takes practice. i taught someone to mig weld in about a hour and after he welded for a few hours he was good enuff to weld up a set of sliders.

That's not quite true, FCAW can put in great welds. They just look different, it's a hotter process, it's smokey, and requires a different technique.

Gas and flux can both shield the pool well. To say you "need some kind of gas" doesn't describe why MIG is preferrable. It has little to do with quality and everything to do with practical differences.

Bill · 10-09-2007, 09:40 PM

Ok, well sad to say I cheaped out. I went down to Princess Auto(near as I can figure the Canadian version of Harbour Freight), and got one of their import special Mig welders: 120V, 78A. I know it's not going to be the greatest thing in the world, but I figure for $200, if it lasts me a year or so before I either outgrow or it busts. But it can still run Flux-core and gas, and the price was right...especially on a University student wage.

Unpacked it and started "playing" tonight on some scrap I had lying around. I suck...but oh well. It was fun. I'll go to a scrap metal place this week and go get some different stuff to practise on.

Once I get out of school and can afford something bigger and better, I'll look more into it. For now I'm going to have fun with my new toy.

hiluxforever · 10-17-2007, 09:43 PM

I did the same thing, bought a cheap clark flux mig. Figured if I use it enough or burn it up I can justify upgrading.. but if it sits around most of the time, I am not out a ton. it will do 3/16, so i will get good at multiple pass welding.

The guy I work with doing finish carpentry is going to get a high amperage stick/arc so we can do thick stuff for frame reinforcement.

so we will see..

fastkevman · 10-17-2007, 10:43 PM

I do tig / mig / stick welding on a semi-regular basis, for repairs and fabrication.
My current position is with a Pharmaceutical company so its mostly tig for light to intermediate jobs and mig for heavy-duty applications with ss wire.
I would buy for myself a good Miller or Lincoln mig welder, Miller is my preference, heres why, every welder that is used on a regular basis will need maintenance and/or repairs and over the years the Miller welders I have used held up the best and were usually easier to maintain and repair.
Tig is buy far the cleanest and also the hardest to master.
Mig is kinda the do-all workhorse and is not too messy and is usually the easiest to get someone started without them getting discouraged.
Stick isn't bad but, I wouldn't want to do it all the time.
Hope this helps.

gotmud? · 10-19-2007, 08:55 AM

MIG or GMAW, is by far the easiest. you pull the trigger and go. it is good for sheetmetal, as it doesnt have the penetration of STICK/ARC (GMAW). i personally stay religoesly to stick. it is a little frustrating to learn, but it produces the best welds of all. TIGor GTAW, it completely useless for production or service welds on your rig unless you are making an aluminum tool box. same goes with Oxy Acetelene or OAW welding and cutting. it plain sucks and is useless. either MIG or Stick is best. justbe sure that you are not welding on chromium (chrome), berilluim, zinc coating (galvanised) and several other metals, as the fumes given off from heat, will either injure/kill you or make you very sick. an auto dimming helmet is very nice, but may be a little overkill. if you are going MIG, i strongly suggest Miller. if you are going arc, lincoln. but a few machines, miller to be exact, have MIG, TIG, Stick all in one, you just turn a switch and use the correct stinger. hope it goes well

10-01-2007, 08:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
jjrgr21 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,520	i've got a wire feed that can convert to mig. but i always just use the wire feed, its strong enough for me. start with sliders __________________ 2003 4WD TRD Tacoma 1986 4Runner

10-01-2007, 09:35 PM	#3 (permalink)
Yota Runner Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: WA Posts: 288	My step-dad has a 220 mig welder...I like mig the best for fabbing. I am no pro by any means but I can run a decent bead. I am working on welding the legs, plates and gussets on my sliders I got from Wab Fab Then I will weld them up to the frame. I am also working on building some knock offs of the sonoran steel shackle hangers. Grinder, Welder, Chop saw, and drill press are pretty much what I have been using lately. __________________ 98 4 Runner SR5 3.4 V6 - Anthracite Metalic - 5 spd - 265/75/R16 BFG AT's on Akuza 359 wheels - Trail Gear 60" Rock Sliders - Rola Roof Rack - Custom Front Recovery Points - Hella 500 fogs - Flowmaster 50 series - Clear lenses - 5% tint - GT covers Exact fit seat covers - DVD - Silverstar ultra's...

10-01-2007, 10:04 PM	#4 (permalink)
amgraham Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 701	MIG is your best bet for learning how to weld as it is the easiest to get a decent weld out of. I have a 140 amp 110V that does fine and will weld up to 1/4". I have an oxy/acet torch as well but just use that for cutting. It's a good idea on the chop saw, grinder, and drill press. I also got a cheap band saw from Harbor Freight ($150 IIRC) and it is slow but cuts very clean. Here's some stuff I've done/am doing to give you an idea of what can be done in a backyard: __________________ 1987 Toyota 4Runner Specs Here: 4Runner Page Member VAXC, RVA-OR

10-02-2007, 08:05 AM	#5 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,887	Oxy-Acetylene is a difficult art to master. You have to heat the metal before welding, to red hot. This means you can EASILY warp your project, expecially welding anything over 3/16" thick. A good welder can do it without any problem, but a beginner could end up trashing the whole deal. 110 volt mig is easy. Plus, you can wire 220 if you really want to, its very simple. __________________ 1987 Mutant 4runner\|Slightly Modified\|Lacking general build direction -Lifts and Tires look cool at the Mall, Lockers and Gears look cool on the trail. -Internet Nice Guy

10-02-2007, 04:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
Bill Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Calgary, AB, Can Posts: 690	SAIT (Southern Alberta Institute of Technology) offers a night class on welding/fab basics that I think I'm going to sign up for. I think for now I'll talk to my dad and see if I can steal...err borrow his little 110 Mig. play around on some scrap steel for now. __________________ 86 Turbo Pickup EB Street RV head EB 268 Cam V6 Brakes + MC A340F auto ---> W56 5-spd swap ...I want a bigger turbo...

10-04-2007, 09:33 PM	#7 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,561	I wouldn't recommend using the oxy-fuel for welding in the kind of fabrication situations you are going to see. It could be done, but it would be inefficient with smaller bottles it would be even worse. As of now, I have a little clarke 95E welder, runs on 110v, great stick welder. I have always welded stick, so I have became very good at it, and have no intention of switching to MIG. Right now I have an Oxy-Propane torch, as I decided a few moths ago to stop renting the acetylene cylinder, because my local welding store was ripping me off. Oxy-Propane is limited for cutting, and you can't weld with it, but it cuts most of my metal fine. I can't remember what size my oxygen cylinder is, but its around 4' tall, 1' diameter. I bought it from the high school used. The propane cylinder is a run-of-the mill RV cylinder, something like 20lbs. Betweeen the two, I have a good fabrication setup. __________________ The Daily Driver: 1998 Tacoma \| Regular Cab \| 4WD \| 2.7L \| 5-Speed Stick \| Mostly Stock The People-Hauler 1988 Grand Wagoneer \| SUV \| 4WD \| AMC 360 \| 3-Speed Auto \| All Stock The Dump Runner 1982 Pickup \| Regular Cab \| 2WD \| 22R \| 5-Speed Stick \| Custom Exhaust FER SALE! http://www.yotatech.com/f108/1982-sh.../#post51229916

10-04-2007, 10:05 PM	#8 (permalink)
fork Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: out in the pacific Posts: 648	I'm in this same boat. I am trying to learn but my local resources for doing so are pretty limited. The college I am currently attending won't let me take any welding courses. They have repeatedly told me that the only way I can take them is if I change my major to welding exclusively. So when I'm not in school I'm usually at a local shop here trying to mess with metals So far I've only used TIG and oxy-acetylene.

10-04-2007, 10:12 PM	#9 (permalink)
ozziesironmanoffroad Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring Valley, CA Posts: 5,676	welding is complicated. just take your time. if you have to lay a huge uneven bead, then just sand down once its done. ive done a couple minor weld jobs.. welded some metal to my buddys trailer for hauling quads, put up steel railings on it, and the welds are very ugly, but strong. depending on the type of welder, GET A WELDER FACEMASK. __________________ The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back. 1988 Toyota P/U 4x4 22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild engine builder .268 cam pioneer CD deck 31x10.50x15 BFG A/T BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper KC Daylighters 100W rancho rs5000 MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB! If not living life to the fullest, why live it? my trucks official buildup thread

10-05-2007, 02:26 AM	#11 (permalink)
gearbox Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sac, CA Posts: 24	oops, double post Last edited by gearbox; 10-05-2007 at 02:44 AM.

10-05-2007, 10:43 AM	#13 (permalink)
deserttoy84 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: san diego Posts: 862	Im taking a welding class right now in college, It covers mig,tig,stick welding. So far ive only done stick welding and i like it a lot. If you dont have the money for a good mig welder dont waste your time buying one. Your welds will not only look horrible but cheap mig welders just dont get the penetration. Trying learning on a stick welding, If can be a little frustrating in the beginning but its easy to catch on. A good stick welder like a lincoln 220v can weld pretty much anything and they run about 250 brand new. __________________ 1984 toyota sr5 4x4 22r w/ weber 32/36 Pro comp 4" front springs & 3" rear downey spring Home made On-board air system V6 4.88 lock rites F & R Bilstein 7100 reservoir shocks

10-05-2007, 10:59 AM	#14 (permalink)
Travisfab Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 236	Pick up the oxy-acetylene unit and use it for cutting, not welding. I would highly recommend starting with MIG welding. If your are going to make the investment, you may as well pick up a 220 machine. A 110 will do most everything you need, but as your skills increase, you will want the power and penetration of the 220. I've heard many times that you should never trust a 110 for any sort of cage work. I am self taught. I bought a miller 175 and just went at it. I studied techniques on the internet and I very confident with my skills now. It just takes practice.

10-05-2007, 11:58 AM	#16 (permalink)
Gator Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Birmingham, AL. Posts: 249	What do ya'll think about this welder? http://cgi.ebay.com/LINCOLN-SP135T-M...QQcmdZViewItem __________________ Current Setup: 94 X-Cab 4x4 w/ 3.0, Auto, 1.5" BJS & Shackles, 33x12.5-15 BFG MT's, Detroit locker w/ 4.88 gears, ISR and Air Box mods, All-Pro winch bumper, Trail Gear Rear bumper, Warn XD9000i, custom body work by trees and rocks. Future Mods: 1UZFE Conversion, A340H to R150F conversion, SAS, dual cases, 12v Air Compressor & tank.

10-06-2007, 07:16 AM	#17 (permalink)
44Runner Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Mount Pleasant, SC Posts: 993	I agree with the others. Start off with a 220 machine. Stick or MIG. I prefer MIG for a general use garage machine. Look at the Hobart 183 (i think that's the current model number). GREAT intro welder that you will probably never out grow either. Can do most everything. __________________ Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7, 8"s, 4Ds 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd and big plans... 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB

10-06-2007, 07:41 AM	#18 (permalink)
algranger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Here in the PNW Posts: 3,264	i just started about 2 months ago with a lincoln gassless wire feed. they say it will weld up to 1/4 in. steel and thats fine for my trail armor. it's super easy and it can upgrade to gas. after using $2500 migs at my class i have decided to at least upgrade this one to mig. it was only 400 bucks plus a mask (it comes with one but it SUCKS.) here is a link if you wanna check it out. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125 __________________ . . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . .

10-06-2007, 10:03 AM	#19 (permalink)
Travisfab Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 236	Can you get clean welds with that flux-core wire? I've never used anything but gas.

10-06-2007, 10:32 AM	#20 (permalink)
gametom Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Manhattan IL Posts: 478	you need some kinda of gas to get a clean weld. the flux core stuff looks like crap, and do your self a favor and buy a auto darkening helm from harbor fright it makes a huge difference. as far as 110 migs go i like the Lincoln models B/c if you buy a few parts you can weld aluminum. Welding is easy it just takes practice. i taught someone to mig weld in about a hour and after he welded for a few hours he was good enuff to weld up a set of sliders. __________________ 91 4runner 22re mostly stock 2006 taco rims pioneer head with ipod controller cerwin vega speakers and 2 12" subs 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 1968 Bronco rusting away until i get the garage cleaned "I've never met a Walmart employee who was trained to do anything but look confused." Squidii On DSLR

10-09-2007, 09:40 PM	#22 (permalink)
Bill Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Calgary, AB, Can Posts: 690	Ok, well sad to say I cheaped out. I went down to Princess Auto(near as I can figure the Canadian version of Harbour Freight), and got one of their import special Mig welders: 120V, 78A. I know it's not going to be the greatest thing in the world, but I figure for $200, if it lasts me a year or so before I either outgrow or it busts. But it can still run Flux-core and gas, and the price was right...especially on a University student wage. Unpacked it and started "playing" tonight on some scrap I had lying around. I suck...but oh well. It was fun. I'll go to a scrap metal place this week and go get some different stuff to practise on. Once I get out of school and can afford something bigger and better, I'll look more into it. For now I'm going to have fun with my new toy. __________________ 86 Turbo Pickup EB Street RV head EB 268 Cam V6 Brakes + MC A340F auto ---> W56 5-spd swap ...I want a bigger turbo...

10-17-2007, 09:43 PM	#23 (permalink)
hiluxforever Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 29	I did the same thing, bought a cheap clark flux mig. Figured if I use it enough or burn it up I can justify upgrading.. but if it sits around most of the time, I am not out a ton. it will do 3/16, so i will get good at multiple pass welding. The guy I work with doing finish carpentry is going to get a high amperage stick/arc so we can do thick stuff for frame reinforcement. so we will see..

10-17-2007, 10:43 PM	#24 (permalink)
fastkevman Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 708	I do tig / mig / stick welding on a semi-regular basis, for repairs and fabrication. My current position is with a Pharmaceutical company so its mostly tig for light to intermediate jobs and mig for heavy-duty applications with ss wire. I would buy for myself a good Miller or Lincoln mig welder, Miller is my preference, heres why, every welder that is used on a regular basis will need maintenance and/or repairs and over the years the Miller welders I have used held up the best and were usually easier to maintain and repair. Tig is buy far the cleanest and also the hardest to master. Mig is kinda the do-all workhorse and is not too messy and is usually the easiest to get someone started without them getting discouraged. Stick isn't bad but, I wouldn't want to do it all the time. Hope this helps.

10-19-2007, 08:55 AM	#25 (permalink)
gotmud? Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 10	MIG or GMAW, is by far the easiest. you pull the trigger and go. it is good for sheetmetal, as it doesnt have the penetration of STICK/ARC (GMAW). i personally stay religoesly to stick. it is a little frustrating to learn, but it produces the best welds of all. TIGor GTAW, it completely useless for production or service welds on your rig unless you are making an aluminum tool box. same goes with Oxy Acetelene or OAW welding and cutting. it plain sucks and is useless. either MIG or Stick is best. justbe sure that you are not welding on chromium (chrome), berilluim, zinc coating (galvanised) and several other metals, as the fumes given off from heat, will either injure/kill you or make you very sick. an auto dimming helmet is very nice, but may be a little overkill. if you are going MIG, i strongly suggest Miller. if you are going arc, lincoln. but a few machines, miller to be exact, have MIG, TIG, Stick all in one, you just turn a switch and use the correct stinger. hope it goes well

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