Fillsrunner4 3.4cralwer -pic heavy! - Page 3

fillsrunner4 · 12-21-2007, 02:58 PM

Today the rain held for me

(it was damn cold though) so i decided to get some work done on my rear shocks. Ive got both mounted and they work great. I test flexed my suspension and made sure the shocks had no binding or contact with anything. They will work great like this. They are mounted at a 75 degree angle instead of the ~45 i had before. this will help some with body roll and also give me a bit more travel ability that my 10" i used to have. Shocks are best mounted straight up and down on oposite sides but this will work and is pretty much the only way i could mount mine so its going to have to work

or its back to the drawing board

Uper mount

Back view

Front view. Sorry the pics are kinda blurry. The pics were taken with my phone Im going to add a piece of flat plate to the botom of the lower shock mounts so if i drop onto the mounts they will hit the plate instead of the shock. Ive still got to do this soI may go out here in a min and finish that while theres light

I may have to shorten the exhaust also to get it farther away from the shocks but it may be good. Ill figure that out later

fillsrunner4 · 12-21-2007, 04:35 PM

So with the rest of my light i quickly fabbed the lower shock mount protection. Its kinda crappy welds but hell it'll work

I plan on going coils and links in the near future (just like everyone says

) the project never ends.
Hell my new motor will probably be replaced with more power at some point but in the mean time this suspension, drivetrain and motor combo should work great

ocdropzone · 12-22-2007, 04:11 AM

So I understand the deal with the plastic gas tank needing to be strapped down and with 3 straps it seems to be pretty secure. Wondering though how well the nylon straps will hold up against the metal edge of the tank tray? do you have some kind of buffer material between the strap and the metal to alleviate wear? Just wondering.

Overall awesome job..wish I had the time and skills..

fillsrunner4 · 12-22-2007, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

So I understand the deal with the plastic gas tank needing to be strapped down and with 3 straps it seems to be pretty secure. Wondering though how well the nylon straps will hold up against the metal edge of the tank tray? do you have some kind of buffer material between the strap and the metal to alleviate wear? Just wondering.

Overall awesome job..wish I had the time and skills..

Thats a good point i dont have a buffer yet but i do plan to add some to it. Im not to concerned at the time because it doesnt really move at all but ill add some once i start wheeling again very soon.

Thats a very good point and Thanks for the input

fillsrunner4 · 12-24-2007, 07:17 PM

Rain Rain Rain

has plauged the Northwest like it does all winter long so work on my 4runner is at a stand still till i catch some breaks. I should have just left it in the garage but I have no room in there so outside it was forced. It doesnt help that i keep buying more and more tools loosing more and more space

The only way it semi fit was when it was like this in the garage

Doors, hood, and seats were placed on top of the truck to make space

I just wanted to add this pic because i think it looks awesome without doors

pics with new 37's and i had to start keeping it outside

Before

After

I love a clean work area

This small part of the garage was were i did my SAS and rear leaf conversion install. not much room but ive seen less

Im about to share my motor swap part of the build right after i finish uploading some pics so stay tuned

fillsrunner4 · 12-24-2007, 08:09 PM

First off the tired and detroyed 3.0 had to go (its an ugly site haha the motor that is

)

And its out

Looks to me like the engine bay needs some cleaning

When i bought my motor it had a chopped harness no ecu and the owner only new it was from a T-100. If i could start all over again i would not have even messed with this motor

but on the other hand it helped me understand alot about this motor. Aspecialy in the wiring

I bought the motor and since the guy didnt know much about it i didnt just want to throw it in without rebuilding it and at least changing the head gaskets.

(Edit pic with manifolds on)

Side view block is pretty rusty

Intake manifolds

Drivers side cams. If you look down the spark plug hole youll see some more rust (this motor obvioulsy sat for some time which is one reason why i

myself sometimes)

This is were most all the rust was

And heads off. Good amount of carbon build up but Cyl. walls look real good.

Before this point I had some concerns about if my manual tranny would work with this motor.(I searched the tps part number and a few other part numbers and found it was from no newer than a 97 T-100 and the cut harness had Auto tranny wires so its from an auto) I read alot about how it needed the pilot bearing hole in the crankshaft in order to work becuase other than that the bellhousing patterns are the same auto to manual.
Heres a pick of the pilot bearing to make sure it fit

and flush view

More in a bit

fillsrunner4 · 12-24-2007, 09:05 PM

Once i got the motor torn down and the heads off I decided that since I dont know enough about this motor and I wanted to learn more and also make a reliable motor I decided to tear everything out and rebuild it from bottom to top
Crankshaft retainer

Crank, rods, and pistons all out

Its very important to keep track of the bearing caps and all things like bolts and pistons, ect and were they go. I take lost of pics when i dive into these projects so your only seeing some of the better ones i have. This will help if you lose somthing or need a reference. Just like the transmission rebuild ziplocks and markers make for a happier ending

Once here i took the block to a machine shop to get it hot tanked and cleaned. it didnt take it all off and i wanted to paint the block so the wire wheel was also in order (blocks starting to look a bit better

)

Fresh paint

goes with the black and red color scheme of my truck (note be sure to add the freezplugs befor painting i learned the hard way

problem was since corrected and fixed)

Looks pink but thats just the light

Paint was a high temp ceramic engine paint
No more rust

Cylinder Honing

Nice cross hatching

All cylinders done and now motor is ready to be put back together

fillsrunner4 · 12-25-2007, 03:42 PM

OK so lets try this again (i hate Comps sometimes aspecialy when your about to post and it exits the site) (Smily is the comp

)

Ok so with the block cleaned and painted its time to work on the heads.
Heads off You can see the carbon and a bit of rust and that the previous owner used platnum 4's

To remove the valves and springs an SST is required as the heads arent like chevys and roller rocker style heads. The rollers are like a cap over the spring and are a genious design to were every roll over of the cam the top of the cap rotates. (the cap has a bearing like piece on top of it that rotates creating an even wear and prolonged life) Im not going to show my friend Erics tool he made to help and save me some money for this process as I think he should patent the design.

All valves guides and springs removed

Close up

Note apon reasembly you need to install the guides in a specific way as the exhaust and intake use different guides although they look very similar. Look in your manuals for the correct instalation because its important to put them in the right way and on the right sides.

I took the heads to get resurfaced then i polished the heads intake and exhaust ports for faster and smother airflow
thus creating more power

yotasavg · 12-25-2007, 04:24 PM

wow! amazing detail, great work

fillsrunner4 · 12-25-2007, 07:02 PM

Thanks yotasavg

Bottom end being being reasembeled all new bearings. Be sure to lube all parts apon reasembly of bearings and other metal on metal surfaces.
Crank back in

Crank retainer and bearings

And on

front view

Use of a 2wd T100 works great. I bought this new with pickup, pan, dipstick and a few misc parts form Sky-Manufacturing for a great low price
Pistons, splash shield and pickup tube installed

New pan on. Be sure to clean the bottom off of all the old seal before installing the new pan and its seal to assure proper sealing

fillsrunner4 · 12-25-2007, 07:19 PM

When I started this thread i should have added a dial up warning sign i think haha

moderators if you could add this it may save some people. I like pics and I know alot of others do too so im gonna keep them coming

fillsrunner4 · 12-25-2007, 07:38 PM

Picture of pistons back in and cleaned the best i could. I also bought a piston ring grove cleaner that worked great and i would recomend you do a good job cleaning them before installing the new rings. Also when installing the rings and using the ring compressor make sure you tighten it as much as you can. I chipped a new ring installing it and had to order more. Also they are installed in a specific order and directions

Heads back on

So before i got the heads bolted on I had ordered LCE head studs
I will not recomend there head studs and the reason being is in this post
http://www.yotatech.com/f123/why-not-buy-lc-110530/

Since the problem i had gone back to the original head bolts and had to have the entire side of my block helicoiled. Im pissed because this not only cost an ass load but it also ruined my chances of every going to a supercharger. Thanks alot LC CRAPINERING

Anyway again the problem is fixed for now so hopefully the coils will hold nicely. the machinest told me they should work great and i trust him and his companies work

Valve covers on. Cams installed.
Note: be sure to mark the cams teeth before removal so when you install the cams again they are placed in the exact same location they were when removed. I also noticed the cams could only be placed in there head and not vise versa

Lower manifold and timing cover backing plate on

Side view of coil packs

A few more pics on the engine rebuild after they load in a few mins

fillsrunner4 · 12-25-2007, 07:54 PM

Intake manifolds on

Timing belt was installed and now its ready to be dropped in

Looks right at home and fits perfectly. I installed with transmission attached

It helped to install the tranny and engine easily like this

Stock radiator will be used with a Flex-A-Lite fan and Ill show you how to get rid or the pulley belt and bearing completly in another post.

fillsrunner4 · 12-25-2007, 11:15 PM

With a Flex-a-Lite fan they claim more power because the engine doesnt have to turn the fan clutch in order to cool the motor. The electric fan helps not only eliminate the need for the clutch but also allows the motor to warm to running tempature quicker which is better for the motor. With no need for the fan clutch i didnt see the need for the bearing and use of the belt at all. I think this will give me that much more power (yes i know its so small a gain it doest really matter but if the bearing went bad it could destroy other parts around it.

So I chopped it

My friend Eric made a plug to seal it off it at school

With the bearing cut off the bolt you see in this pic with the allen head was interfering with the belt to the alt. So i took the original bolt cut it down and welded a counter sunk allen head. I had to counter sink the fan pully bracket in order to make it as flat as possible so it would not interfere
this is how it turned out.

You can also see my lightweight crank pully i bought from URD.

Stats include:
Aircraft grade 6061 T-6 aluminum billet.
CNC machined to .001" tolerances.
Bolt holes for the OEM crankshaft holding tool and puller.
MILSPEC grade hard anodized coating in URD Red.
Substantial weight reduction 2 lbs 10 oz down from 10 lbs stock.
Freed up acceleration horsepower and torque.
Snappier throttle response.
Stock belt drive diameters.
Maximum traction URD SuperGrip design on the supercharger belt drive.
Impressive to stare at.
They also claim according to some internet sites that for every pound reduced in rotational mass of the crankshaft assembly, you gain 2.7 acceleration horsepower. Being thats is alot lighter than my stock one (Eric dropped and broke

)I should have a huge gain

Check them out at http://www.urdusa.com/index.phpthey have some great stuff
It only cost a bit more than a brand new stock one so it was a no brainer

Top view you can also see my new power steering line I got from ORS. I took out my ABS unit since its useless to me

yotasavg · 12-26-2007, 11:03 AM

so why did the head bolt issue make it so that you can't ever add an S/C?

(am i the only one reading you're thread? lol)

12-21-2007, 02:58 PM	#51 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Today the rain held for me (it was damn cold though) so i decided to get some work done on my rear shocks. Ive got both mounted and they work great. I test flexed my suspension and made sure the shocks had no binding or contact with anything. They will work great like this. They are mounted at a 75 degree angle instead of the ~45 i had before. this will help some with body roll and also give me a bit more travel ability that my 10" i used to have. Shocks are best mounted straight up and down on oposite sides but this will work and is pretty much the only way i could mount mine so its going to have to work or its back to the drawing board Uper mount Back view Front view. Sorry the pics are kinda blurry. The pics were taken with my phone Im going to add a piece of flat plate to the botom of the lower shock mounts so if i drop onto the mounts they will hit the plate instead of the shock. Ive still got to do this soI may go out here in a min and finish that while theres light I may have to shorten the exhaust also to get it farther away from the shocks but it may be good. Ill figure that out later __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-21-2007, 04:35 PM	#52 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	So with the rest of my light i quickly fabbed the lower shock mount protection. Its kinda crappy welds but hell it'll work I plan on going coils and links in the near future (just like everyone says ) the project never ends. Hell my new motor will probably be replaced with more power at some point but in the mean time this suspension, drivetrain and motor combo should work great __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-22-2007, 04:11 AM	#53 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX Posts: 2,819	So I understand the deal with the plastic gas tank needing to be strapped down and with 3 straps it seems to be pretty secure. Wondering though how well the nylon straps will hold up against the metal edge of the tank tray? do you have some kind of buffer material between the strap and the metal to alleviate wear? Just wondering. Overall awesome job..wish I had the time and skills.. __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker SR5 B4Runner Build '89 Tercel Project POS Gas Saver TREKKER Forum LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS All Toyota Website Search Engine Wheel Responsibly, Don't screw it up for others...

12-24-2007, 07:17 PM	#55 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Rain Rain Rain has plauged the Northwest like it does all winter long so work on my 4runner is at a stand still till i catch some breaks. I should have just left it in the garage but I have no room in there so outside it was forced. It doesnt help that i keep buying more and more tools loosing more and more space The only way it semi fit was when it was like this in the garage Doors, hood, and seats were placed on top of the truck to make space I just wanted to add this pic because i think it looks awesome without doors pics with new 37's and i had to start keeping it outside Before After I love a clean work area This small part of the garage was were i did my SAS and rear leaf conversion install. not much room but ive seen less Im about to share my motor swap part of the build right after i finish uploading some pics so stay tuned __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-24-2007, 08:09 PM	#56 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	First off the tired and detroyed 3.0 had to go (its an ugly site haha the motor that is ) And its out Looks to me like the engine bay needs some cleaning When i bought my motor it had a chopped harness no ecu and the owner only new it was from a T-100. If i could start all over again i would not have even messed with this motor but on the other hand it helped me understand alot about this motor. Aspecialy in the wiring I bought the motor and since the guy didnt know much about it i didnt just want to throw it in without rebuilding it and at least changing the head gaskets. (Edit pic with manifolds on) Side view block is pretty rusty Intake manifolds Drivers side cams. If you look down the spark plug hole youll see some more rust (this motor obvioulsy sat for some time which is one reason why i myself sometimes) This is were most all the rust was And heads off. Good amount of carbon build up but Cyl. walls look real good. Before this point I had some concerns about if my manual tranny would work with this motor.(I searched the tps part number and a few other part numbers and found it was from no newer than a 97 T-100 and the cut harness had Auto tranny wires so its from an auto) I read alot about how it needed the pilot bearing hole in the crankshaft in order to work becuase other than that the bellhousing patterns are the same auto to manual. Heres a pick of the pilot bearing to make sure it fit and flush view More in a bit __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread Last edited by fillsrunner4 : 12-24-2007 at 09:07 PM.

12-24-2007, 09:05 PM	#57 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Once i got the motor torn down and the heads off I decided that since I dont know enough about this motor and I wanted to learn more and also make a reliable motor I decided to tear everything out and rebuild it from bottom to top Crankshaft retainer Crank, rods, and pistons all out Its very important to keep track of the bearing caps and all things like bolts and pistons, ect and were they go. I take lost of pics when i dive into these projects so your only seeing some of the better ones i have. This will help if you lose somthing or need a reference. Just like the transmission rebuild ziplocks and markers make for a happier ending Once here i took the block to a machine shop to get it hot tanked and cleaned. it didnt take it all off and i wanted to paint the block so the wire wheel was also in order (blocks starting to look a bit better ) Fresh paint goes with the black and red color scheme of my truck (note be sure to add the freezplugs befor painting i learned the hard way problem was since corrected and fixed) Looks pink but thats just the light Paint was a high temp ceramic engine paint No more rust Cylinder Honing Nice cross hatching All cylinders done and now motor is ready to be put back together __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-25-2007, 03:42 PM	#58 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	OK so lets try this again (i hate Comps sometimes aspecialy when your about to post and it exits the site) (Smily is the comp) Ok so with the block cleaned and painted its time to work on the heads. Heads off You can see the carbon and a bit of rust and that the previous owner used platnum 4's To remove the valves and springs an SST is required as the heads arent like chevys and roller rocker style heads. The rollers are like a cap over the spring and are a genious design to were every roll over of the cam the top of the cap rotates. (the cap has a bearing like piece on top of it that rotates creating an even wear and prolonged life) Im not going to show my friend Erics tool he made to help and save me some money for this process as I think he should patent the design. All valves guides and springs removed Close up Note apon reasembly you need to install the guides in a specific way as the exhaust and intake use different guides although they look very similar. Look in your manuals for the correct instalation because its important to put them in the right way and on the right sides. I took the heads to get resurfaced then i polished the heads intake and exhaust ports for faster and smother airflow thus creating more power __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread Last edited by fillsrunner4 : 12-25-2007 at 03:43 PM.

12-25-2007, 04:24 PM	#59 (permalink)
yotasavg Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chico Republic, NOR*CAL Posts: 1,524	wow! amazing detail, great work __________________ -Andrew 94 4Runner 3.0 Auto. I got mods

12-25-2007, 07:02 PM	#60 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Thanks yotasavg Bottom end being being reasembeled all new bearings. Be sure to lube all parts apon reasembly of bearings and other metal on metal surfaces. Crank back in Crank retainer and bearings And on front view Use of a 2wd T100 works great. I bought this new with pickup, pan, dipstick and a few misc parts form Sky-Manufacturing for a great low price Pistons, splash shield and pickup tube installed New pan on. Be sure to clean the bottom off of all the old seal before installing the new pan and its seal to assure proper sealing __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-25-2007, 07:19 PM	#61 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	When I started this thread i should have added a dial up warning sign i think haha moderators if you could add this it may save some people. I like pics and I know alot of others do too so im gonna keep them coming __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-25-2007, 07:38 PM	#62 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Picture of pistons back in and cleaned the best i could. I also bought a piston ring grove cleaner that worked great and i would recomend you do a good job cleaning them before installing the new rings. Also when installing the rings and using the ring compressor make sure you tighten it as much as you can. I chipped a new ring installing it and had to order more. Also they are installed in a specific order and directions Heads back on So before i got the heads bolted on I had ordered LCE head studs I will not recomend there head studs and the reason being is in this post http://www.yotatech.com/f123/why-not-buy-lc-110530/ Since the problem i had gone back to the original head bolts and had to have the entire side of my block helicoiled. Im pissed because this not only cost an ass load but it also ruined my chances of every going to a supercharger. Thanks alot LC CRAPINERING Anyway again the problem is fixed for now so hopefully the coils will hold nicely. the machinest told me they should work great and i trust him and his companies work Valve covers on. Cams installed. Note: be sure to mark the cams teeth before removal so when you install the cams again they are placed in the exact same location they were when removed. I also noticed the cams could only be placed in there head and not vise versa Lower manifold and timing cover backing plate on Side view of coil packs A few more pics on the engine rebuild after they load in a few mins __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-25-2007, 07:54 PM	#63 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Intake manifolds on Timing belt was installed and now its ready to be dropped in Looks right at home and fits perfectly. I installed with transmission attached It helped to install the tranny and engine easily like this Stock radiator will be used with a Flex-A-Lite fan and Ill show you how to get rid or the pulley belt and bearing completly in another post. __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-25-2007, 11:15 PM	#64 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	With a Flex-a-Lite fan they claim more power because the engine doesnt have to turn the fan clutch in order to cool the motor. The electric fan helps not only eliminate the need for the clutch but also allows the motor to warm to running tempature quicker which is better for the motor. With no need for the fan clutch i didnt see the need for the bearing and use of the belt at all. I think this will give me that much more power (yes i know its so small a gain it doest really matter but if the bearing went bad it could destroy other parts around it. So I chopped it My friend Eric made a plug to seal it off it at school With the bearing cut off the bolt you see in this pic with the allen head was interfering with the belt to the alt. So i took the original bolt cut it down and welded a counter sunk allen head. I had to counter sink the fan pully bracket in order to make it as flat as possible so it would not interfere this is how it turned out. You can also see my lightweight crank pully i bought from URD. Stats include: Aircraft grade 6061 T-6 aluminum billet. CNC machined to .001" tolerances. Bolt holes for the OEM crankshaft holding tool and puller. MILSPEC grade hard anodized coating in URD Red. Substantial weight reduction 2 lbs 10 oz down from 10 lbs stock. Freed up acceleration horsepower and torque. Snappier throttle response. Stock belt drive diameters. Maximum traction URD SuperGrip design on the supercharger belt drive. Impressive to stare at. They also claim according to some internet sites that for every pound reduced in rotational mass of the crankshaft assembly, you gain 2.7 acceleration horsepower. Being thats is alot lighter than my stock one (Eric dropped and broke )I should have a huge gain Check them out at http://www.urdusa.com/index.phpthey have some great stuff It only cost a bit more than a brand new stock one so it was a no brainer Top view you can also see my new power steering line I got from ORS. I took out my ABS unit since its useless to me __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-26-2007, 11:03 AM	#65 (permalink)
yotasavg Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chico Republic, NOR*CAL Posts: 1,524	so why did the head bolt issue make it so that you can't ever add an S/C? (am i the only one reading you're thread? lol) __________________ -Andrew 94 4Runner 3.0 Auto. I got mods