A few questions about notching a frame
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A few questions about notching a frame
I will need to notch the front part of my frame on my 95 4runner to get the coil springs w/solid front axle to sit level with the rear.
what would be stronger, im thinking the latter (even though more work)
using 2x4, 0.120 wall like this
or use 3/16" plate and make plates that extend all the way down the frame, similar to this
what would be stronger, im thinking the latter (even though more work)
using 2x4, 0.120 wall like this
or use 3/16" plate and make plates that extend all the way down the frame, similar to this
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I am a little confused. Are your front coil springs too short? Why not just get some taller springs? Or just add a little to your frame and not worry about notching it at all. It would be plenty strong that way. Those pictures are more for c-notching the frame for lowering trucks with airbags and hydraulics so that it can go lower.
Last edited by Dras16; 04-24-2011 at 03:00 PM.
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I am a little confused. Are your front coil springs too short? Why not just get some taller springs? Or just add a little to your frame and not worry about notching it at all. It would be plenty strong that way. Those pictures are more for c-notching the frame for lowering trucks with airbags and hydraulics so that it can go lower.
as it sits right now, the frame in the front is 23" off the ground where the springs will mount, and the rear part of the frame sits 27" tall.
the spring perches on the axle will end up being directly under the frame, so in order for them to sit level with the rear, I need them to be mounted higher up on the frame.
essentially, the springs will sit to tall in the front, id order taller rear springs, but im trying to keep the lift at 8-10" not 14"-15"
Last edited by GreenYoda; 04-24-2011 at 05:55 PM.
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to answer your main ? go with plating the frame all the way for max strength. thats my opinion. as far as the purpose for doing this your biggest achievment will be the gain in uptravel. my only advice (if you want it) will be to adjust your bumps to prevent axle/oil pan meetings. other than that keep on keepin on! i like where your going.
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to answer your main ? go with plating the frame all the way for max strength. thats my opinion. as far as the purpose for doing this your biggest achievment will be the gain in uptravel. my only advice (if you want it) will be to adjust your bumps to prevent axle/oil pan meetings. other than that keep on keepin on! i like where your going.
and yea, I am going to plate all the way down, found an interesting article about this on another forum, should be able to make it equally strong as stock (hopefully stronger)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4597148
hopefully within the next few months ill at least have the front lifted
next im gonna have to start thinking about a hi-steer setup (obviously not store bought)
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i got the bomb proof motor/t-case mounts and they are strong and safe but i do get alot of vibration now. enough to skip my cd player so i have to turn to the ipod while the truck is running. you ever hear kenny chesney stutter during a song? sit in my truck and you will! lol
Last edited by E-ROC; 04-26-2011 at 06:12 PM.
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Best bet is to just make a new set of front frame horns. C-notching would work, but a new set of frame horns that rises up above the original would be cleaner, give you more clearance, etc etc.
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Got my plates almost finished today, just need to clean up the edges a bit more. Just have to go measure the frame width and see if I can buy some flat stock thats the right size
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I need to start cutting the suspension off, but my boss has projects in the shop right now, he blew the trans in his sand rail, got it back from the shop the other day, so now we just gotta install it, then load it into his toy hauler...
only bad part of using the shop at work, boss's projects come first, and ˟˟˟˟ either has to be tucked out of the way, or drivable incase we have one of our work trucks go down.
only bad part of using the shop at work, boss's projects come first, and ˟˟˟˟ either has to be tucked out of the way, or drivable incase we have one of our work trucks go down.
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