Time for new cv joints, possible upgrade?
#1
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Time for new cv joints, possible upgrade?
Hey I drive a 91 4runner sr5 4x4 and One of my cv joints is bad. I noticed that 2 of the boots were ripped too so I figure its time to replace the whole thing. I can go down the the local checker and get a remanufactured stock axle for 90 bucks, but I was wondering since I have to replace it anyway if there was anything I could do to improve the offroad durability of the nortorious IFS. Perhaps aftermarket cv joints or shafts?
Thanks,
Kyle
Thanks,
Kyle
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I have 3 CVs for sale, all rebuilt within the last 2 years so fairly new boots. For $90 plus shipping you can have all three.
As for you question, not much you can do, the CVs themselves are pretty tough. To protect the boots alll you can do is keep the amount of lift low and switch to manual hubs.
As for you question, not much you can do, the CVs themselves are pretty tough. To protect the boots alll you can do is keep the amount of lift low and switch to manual hubs.
#4
this is the item I was talking about.
I saw something on ebay this morning that replaced the CV's with short axels and spindles. Dont know if they are any good just thought I would pass it along.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...temZ8061963459
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...temZ8061963459
Last edited by Buck01; 05-30-2006 at 10:47 AM. Reason: found a link
#5
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ummm no that ebay link was for a solid axle truck. that wont work in IFS
do you have a locker up front?
are you blowing up CV's just about every time you go out wheeling?
if neither of those are true then i dont feel there is much good throwing money at something your basicly never useing.
you have a couple of options
1)$40 for new boots and just replace the boots. should take about an hr to do
2) buy some used spair shafts and bolt them in, should take about 30 min
3) buy a brand new CV shaft from advance/AZ for $70 and bolt it in.
do you have a locker up front?
are you blowing up CV's just about every time you go out wheeling?
if neither of those are true then i dont feel there is much good throwing money at something your basicly never useing.
you have a couple of options
1)$40 for new boots and just replace the boots. should take about an hr to do
2) buy some used spair shafts and bolt them in, should take about 30 min
3) buy a brand new CV shaft from advance/AZ for $70 and bolt it in.
#7
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People cryo IFS CV?!?! Never heard of that and I doubt it's worth the expense. I'd like to see links if this is true.
Other than that...folks, again lets keep down the misinformation.
Other than that...folks, again lets keep down the misinformation.
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#8
Not trying to pass on misinformation.
This is how people learn. You hear something or read something and think you understand it. Then pass on what you believe to be good information.
Just like the Cryo'ed cv's..a month from now someone may ask about it ,you may say..you have heard of it being done...is that misinformation?
You would be passing on info you believe to be valid.
We can't all know everything.
Through the exchange of information we will all learn.
This is how people learn. You hear something or read something and think you understand it. Then pass on what you believe to be good information.
Just like the Cryo'ed cv's..a month from now someone may ask about it ,you may say..you have heard of it being done...is that misinformation?
You would be passing on info you believe to be valid.
We can't all know everything.
Through the exchange of information we will all learn.
#9
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Of course nobody is trying to pass on misinformation. But if you don't have knowledge (either well researched or hands on) then don't say anything. Bad info is worse than no info. And of course I have passed on bad info in my earlier days. I no longer post tech statements unless I know with very high certainty that it is true.
I'm not trying to be a jerk here...there's just way too much bad info going around on yotatech and I'd like to see it reduced. Whatever way you try to justify your post, whether in the name of info exchange or not, it's still incorrect info. Please don't take this personally.
I'm not trying to be a jerk here...there's just way too much bad info going around on yotatech and I'd like to see it reduced. Whatever way you try to justify your post, whether in the name of info exchange or not, it's still incorrect info. Please don't take this personally.
#10
I am not taking it personally... I understand what you are saying and the reasons for it.
I realize my information was incorrect.
I am just trying to contribute to this forum that has given me lots of good information and tips.
I realize my information was incorrect.
I am just trying to contribute to this forum that has given me lots of good information and tips.
Last edited by Buck01; 06-13-2006 at 06:16 AM.
#12
I think he was upset with my "cryro the shaft". It is not misinformation if I admit that I don't know much about it, but I think people come to this board to get ideas and learn of opportunities being researched.
There are many folks checking into this process for IFS vehicles as well as quads.
Here is a recent YT thread where it mentioned: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=Arizona
I hate misinformation too, but I also hate missing out on some new information just as much. Just my $0.02.
There are many folks checking into this process for IFS vehicles as well as quads.
Here is a recent YT thread where it mentioned: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=Arizona
I hate misinformation too, but I also hate missing out on some new information just as much. Just my $0.02.
#13
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Your upgrade options would be something like CV Unlimited or Porsche CV's - both will cost enough to take a HUGE chunk out of the bill for a SAS if you're really breaking them often...
#15
For a supercooled shaft, assuming it is not terribly different than what they are doing with straaight shafts, the cost may be in the $100 to $200 range (for treatment only). Considering the relative ease and low cost of replacement CV shafts (which are very strong), your point is well taken that it may not be worth it, depending on how strong a cryro'ed shaft could be. Something to keep an eye on.
That's for someone else to follow - I can already get Chromollies for my front Dana44.
That's it for me - I don't want to highjack the thread.
That's for someone else to follow - I can already get Chromollies for my front Dana44.
That's it for me - I don't want to highjack the thread.
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I haven't been breaking them often. I bought my truck used about a month ago and I think they have been bad since I bought it. Sounds like I should just stick with stock, Will replacing these screw up my alignment? Cause I just had it done
#17
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Absolutely will not affect your alignment.
Get some M12-1.25x30mm Grade 10.9 bolts, nuts, and lockwashers to replace the pressed in studs. Will make any future replacements A LOT easier. (Search for Quick change CV)
Get some M12-1.25x30mm Grade 10.9 bolts, nuts, and lockwashers to replace the pressed in studs. Will make any future replacements A LOT easier. (Search for Quick change CV)
#18
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Originally Posted by snap-on
3) buy a brand new CV shaft from advance/AZ for $70 and bolt it in.
Cheers!
#19
I believe he's talking about advance auto parts.
the bad thing about CV's is the stress caused by drooping, angles, and whatnot right?
to fix droop problems has anyone ever thought about adding a male and female section of spline shaft to the middle of the cv?
we're looking at this option for our SAE mini baja car next year since we were having problems with length of the cv's we have now.
basically itll add alittle more plunge.
also what actually breaks on them when they get ruined?
is it the cage/race, or the star shaped thing or the bearings come out or what?
-derek
the bad thing about CV's is the stress caused by drooping, angles, and whatnot right?
to fix droop problems has anyone ever thought about adding a male and female section of spline shaft to the middle of the cv?
we're looking at this option for our SAE mini baja car next year since we were having problems with length of the cv's we have now.
basically itll add alittle more plunge.
also what actually breaks on them when they get ruined?
is it the cage/race, or the star shaped thing or the bearings come out or what?
-derek
#20
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Originally Posted by dfoxengr
to fix droop problems has anyone ever thought about adding a male and female section of spline shaft to the middle of the cv?
also what actually breaks on them when they get ruined?
is it the cage/race, or the star shaped thing or the bearings come out or what?
-derek
also what actually breaks on them when they get ruined?
is it the cage/race, or the star shaped thing or the bearings come out or what?
-derek
I think they end up blowing up the outter bairfield type end but ive never personally broke one or replaced a busted one so i cant say for shure.