nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

Hey, I'm trying to build just a regular "go anywhere" off road truck for moderate wheeling, nothing special. I made a list of everything I'm thinking of doing and would like your guys opinion on it all. Let me know if there's something I should add or something I don't really need or if there is a better version of the product.

I've been trying to read and research stuff and find out what will help make a good and reliable truck. A year ago I would have just wanted to slap on a giant lift and giant tires and run off without a worry. But I'm learning there is A LOT more to it. I'm hoping to have all this done by June or July. My signature has all the info on my truck. Here's the list:

-factory 3rd members w/ 4.88 gears
-Aussie locker (rear)
-Marlin Crawler HD Rock Sliders
-Marlin Crawler front/rear bumpers
-Marlin Crawler Interior Cage (I'm just guessing this would be cheaper, for now, than having a shop custom build me one)
-HD Ceramic Clutch
-FJ80 Rod Ends
-Sonora Steel IFS Brace
-Wab Fab Pitman Arm
-Wab Fab Bikini Top
-Wab Fab Tube Doors w/ kickout
-Wab Fab Quick Release Door Hinges
-Downey Idler Arm Gusset
-33x12.5 Kumho Venture KL71 M/T's

Thanks for any and all help

Dan.3

I thought you said a moderate wheeler?

whats the interior cage for? Every thing else sounds pretty good. Not sure what you plan on doing but the IFS brace, 80 ends, and pitman arm might be alittle over kill for moderate.

trbizwiz

moderate= "I dont want to mess with an SAS, or 3.4 swap. But I want to do every other mod."

saitotiktmdog

Sounds good. I only have a recommendation for order of mods. Do the gears and lockers first, or at the same time as whatever necessary lift for the 33s. Then do the armor. I guess you could do the armor now to prevent any damage as you wheel your rig now. There is no need for the internal roll cage unless you plan on doing stuff on purpose that might cause a rollover, at least my opinoin. At least do that last.

nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

Right now the truck is just sitting, I screwed up the rear diff. I'm getting the front and rear 3rd members with 4.88's probably sometime in January. I'll get the Aussie then as well. Everything else I'm just going to buy when I get the cash and do it all at once this spring/summer. The deal with the cage is pretty much just in case. I don't think I'll ever need it but reading some reviews of some trails they say there are some pretty narrow sections with good size drop offs to one side so I don't want to leave anything to chance. I've seen pics of rolled rigs without any sort of cage. Thanks for all the input guys! SAS will be coming in the future but I don't have that kind of know-how yet; nor the need for it. I'd like to get a separate truck for that anyways. Thanks again

1styota4X4

do the ball joint spacers....I have not looked back and loved the ride...You will be able to keep the lift moderate if you dont crank the T-bars to mcuh with them

trbizwiz

I like the bj spacers as well. The ride is much improved.

91 4Runner

33x12.5 really should have 8"to10" wide rims, if you go with 33x10.5 you can use your stock rims and then don't need a lift.

joebattle1

last i checked there is no Aussie for the 3.0

cadman

I'm with you 100%. I've personally seen the results of low speed rollovers on easy trails, fireroads even, and I would like to stay in one functional piece if I could help it. I plan on doing a cage in my truck in the near future.

nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

I've thought about the BJ spacers and from what I've read the IFS is strongest when left stock. I have a tendency to break my vehicles, hence the above mentioned "overkill" for a moderate wheeler.

I have 15x10 wheels right now so no worry there. If I have rub I plan to just trim the fenders.

As to the Aussie for the 3.0L, I could have sworn when I was looking at the site it had said V6 4Runner, but I just checked again and all it says is '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner rear 8" 30 spline. I dunno what count the V6 rear has so you could be right. I'll search that right now. Thanks for pointing that out

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I love all the "WabFab" parts.

nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

I hoped you would haha. You've got a lot of cool stuff man. I'll probably be buying plenty from you in the future

nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I've been searching for spline counts and not really finding anything. I tried here, ultimateyota, and pirate4x4. Pirate was the only place that really kind of had what I was looking for with their beautiful FAQ . It looks like the '88 4Runner 3.0L 8" rear is 30 spline. . .can anyone confirm this for me please?

AxleIke

Its not the spline thats the issue. All 4runners from 84-2002 have 30 spline axles in the rear.

Don't quote me on this, but I think it has to do with the pinions in the diff itself. v6 is a 4 pinion, and 4 cyl has two. However, Matt16, a member on here, just put one in his 2nd gen. PM him, and he can tell you what he did.

You're missing some stuff from your list:

Front locker, tcase gears, dual case adapter/2nd case, belly pan, tcase armor, rear diff armor.

Keep in mind that the FJ80 rod ends will require that you take your center link, and knuckle arms to a machine shop, and have them milled out. Probably an hour or two in shop labor, so figure that cost in.

Also, if you are going to FJ80 rod ends, there is no point in messing with the downey brace, you'll need a TC idler arm. You are running 12.50 wide tires, so you can expect to have idler issues even with the brace. Doing the work for the 80 ends without the TC arm is a waste.

saitotiktmdog

I believe its actually a 23 spline. Its the same for the v6 and the turbo. Non turbo and non V6 models were 21 spline. Never mind thought you were talking about transfer cases.

AxleIke

He isn't. He's talking about aussie lockers for the rear diff.

saitotiktmdog

yeah i realized that after I posted and so i edited my post.

nosfanatic2006

iTrader: (1)

Front locker: I want an ARB for the front so I can choose when its locked, too much money right now. Besides, how bad would I need it?

t-case gears/dual cases: I should be fine for moderate wheeling right? I'm not crawling

Armor: I have thought about this but I can't find anything except for the diff armor. Anyone know where I can find some? Or do I need to have it custom made?

TC Idler Arm: super expensive, figured I could run with just the brace?

Tires: not set in stone. I may run 33x10.5

Machine work for FJ80 rods: is there a way I could just buy these parts already made for the FJ80 rods? Would it be cheaper to do it that way if there are? I'm trying to do as much work myself as possible; plus I don't know of any machine shops around Topeka


Again, thanks for all the input guys. I keep getting more and more inspired to get a second job so I can save more for my truck

EDIT: I believe the 3rd's I'm getting are from a V6.

Dan.3

i would not touch the ifs if you are planing to do a sas in the future. The ifs is alot stronger than what people give it credit for. I would just get an idler brace and extra bushings. I run mine with 33x12.5 ATs on the stock rims and 32x11.5 MTs on aluminum 15x8 rims no issues. I actually beat the crap out of mine pretty good keeping up with the SAS guys. What hubs do you have. If you have warns I would invest in a set of Aisin maybe.