Originally Posted by arjan

To be able to use the locker your transfercase should be in 4-Low. The "lock" light should be on steady. If it's flashing it is not engaged

Originally Posted by BruceTS

Here's a breakdown on the mechanics of the E-Locker:

When you activate the RR switch it sends 12v, pin #4 Green/Yellow, to the Locker ECU. The ECU then checks to see if Pin #8 the Grey wire(Blue/Red on 4Runners) is grounded or in 4WL, then checks to see if the Speed sensor, pin #10 the green/orange wire, is below 5MPH, at the same time it activates the flashing RR light pin #1 Yellow/Blue wire. If these conditions are met, then it does a check with a switch in the E-Locker at the axle pin #9 to make sure it's grounded (locker dis-engaged). If all these conditions are met it activate's Relay 1(inside the ECU) switching it from being grounded to supplying 12v to pin #3 the Light Green wire. At this point the E-Locker motor starts turning, moving a shift fork to lock the diff, if the teeth don't line up, the locker won't engage until there is some movement, which is why you turn slightly. Once the fork shifts fully over, the switch opens the circuit to pin #9 and grounds pin #6 the Light Green/Black wire and turns the power off the Relay 1 grounding pin #3, stopping the motor, as well as closing another switch the Yellow/Blue to turn the RR light solid, now the E-Locker if fully engaged.

When you turn off the switch, it goes through the same checks, but with a few differences, since pin #6 is now grounded and no power is at pin #4 the ECU activates Relay 2(inside the ECU) switching pin #2 Light Green/Red from ground to power, reversing the motor, unlocking the diff, again moving slowly in a slight turn the locker will help. Then pin #6 is opened and pin #9 is grounded, shutting off Relay 2 and the lock detection switch in the e-locker is opened turning off the RR light.

Pin #5 Black/White or Black/Yellow is the main power
Pin #7 Wihte/Black is ground
Another note* The ABS is deactivated when the Locker is on(ABS light)

If I made any mistakes in operations let me know. Recently my e-locker failed to work, so I did some reverse engineering to learn about it's operation.

Check your fuses, if they are fine, then check the wiring from the locker motor to the frame, I just had to repair mine. Somehow I picked up something that cut the wiring harness. If the wiring is ok, then you need to see if power is getting to the e-locker ECU. Pin #5 on the plug should be black/yellow or black/white, with the key on, see if there is power at that connection. If so, check the green/yellow wire pin #4; e-locker switch off = no power, on = power also you'll hear a clicking noise from the box, which is a solenoid engaging. If you hear this noise check the light green wire pin #3 for power; this is power going to the e-locker motor to engage. If so check the light green/red wire pin #2 to see if it is grounded. If so, your ECU is ok, now you need to see if actual power(switch on) is getting to the e-locker at the axle. Check the green wire at both connectors, frame and locker motor to see if you got power, if not then the problem is somewhere in the wiring harness. If power is going to the motor then you'll need to remove the assembly and check it out.

If the switch in the E-locker that tells the ECU which relay to activate, doesn't close it's connection properly this will prevent the system from working. Pin #9 should be grounded if the switch is working properly, if it's not, you can try grounding this lead to see if it activates relay 1 in the ECU, this sometime will jump start the system and fix the problem.

Originally Posted by BruceTS

This is something that I posted on another board to assist someone fix their problem, hope this helps you. The Locker ECU is located under the drivers side kick panel, you don't need to take the dash apart.