OneTrickToy

Okay, I'm finally getting around to converting my pump to onboard air. I just got back from an AC shop where the guy that runs the place spent close to half an hour giving me some advice and information on what will be needed. But, he has not done it himself. I will most likely do this early next week after I get my freon drained.

I remembered hearing that a couple of people have done this. For those that have, if you aren't using "AC Oil", start using it. He explained that AC pumps have rubber seals that are not like normal piston seals. They are very susceptable to corrosion and breakage. We came up with an idea to run the small pump and hose between the oiler and seperator so that the fairly expensive oil can be cycled through. The oil runs around 20-30 bucks for 32 ounces.

I've got a question for those that have done it. What kind of output are you getting? FROR says that with their kit you can run air tools. And from what I know, most air tools need 4.0CFM at 90psi to run. Do you think that you are getting close to this amount?

For those that have been thinking about doing this, I've got another tip. Put your quick-connect next to your gas filler. This way you have the connection protected and clean when you need to use it.

I am also going to run a regulator before and after my air tank. And both gauges I'm going to run on remote lines and mount inside the cab. If you have any tips, they would be greatly appreciated! I'll take pictures and do a write-up when I do the conversion.

Mytyota

I've been using the a/c compressor for over six months, no problems. In fact have 2 trucks running the same system. Just as easy to shoot a squirt of w/d40 every couple of hours of run time. have a8 gallon tank and a pressure cut off switch . Air compressor starts at 90 psi.and shuts off at 120 psi.

OneTrickToy

How long to air up your tires? Tire size, start pressure, end pressure, time?

And do you run air tools off it?

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I have some minimal specs on the output of the ND A/C compressor (seems to be around 4CFM @ 30 psi):

A/C compressor info

Of course that will vary with engine speed.

OneTrickToy

Okay... so, I should be able to run air tools with an air tank. But I don't quite understand how to come up with my run times. If you could help, that would be great. I'm probably going to be carrying two 5 gallon tanks. But I still have to decide mounting location and exactly how much space I have to spare. I should be able to place 5 gallon tank forward of each tire well on the inside without losing too much space. My other option is to run two 7 gallon tanks, if I find I have more than enough room that is.

Thanks

Mytyota

it takes less then 2 minutes to fill the tank from empty. and then it cycles as it needs to maintain at least 90 lbs. I run 36 inche tires and run 5 psi on the trail, and air them up to 20 psi for the ride home in less then 1 minute. Have no problem running air tools of any kind of impact to air drill. And thats at an idle, but im trying to put in a hand throttle to control the engine speed when i need a little extra for keeping the air built up on the higher end.

OneTrickToy

awesome! Last time when I was doing my initial research I made a post and got very little info from people who had done the conversion. This time I seem to have gotten plenty of info, and everything is positive!

I'll definately do a write up and post plenty of pictures when I'm done!

upndair

I haven't done the conversion. I went with 2 truck air compressors instead. I wanted to keep my AC. Speaking of which, since you won't be using your AC, I need one of the lines for the AC system that go in front of the radiator. I blew a hole in one while welding next to it. Any chance I can get yours?

Now for tips. Put in the largest air tanks that you can fit. I picked up an 11 gallon air tank from Shucks for $29.99. If I had my druthers, I'd put two 11 gallon tanks, especially with 37" tires and because most of the people I wheel with, don't have onboard air, so I get to be the filling station :o) The more air you have in storage, the better your system will work. I'd also get some 1-way check valves on the input side of the tank. Mine leaks back out through the compressors.

You won't need a regulator on the input side of the tank, only the output side. You'll only need this if you plan to use air lockers. Your air tools will do just fine if you keep the pressure below 120psi. You'll want an unregulated hose for filling up tires. If you have to reset a bead, you'll want every psi you can get!

The fewer connections you make, the less chance you have for leaks.

If you're going to put your tanks in the bed of your pickup, you don't need to go through the hassle of plumbing output hoses. You can run the hoses right out the side of the bed, or out the back if you have your topper on. If you plan to run the tanks underneath the bed like mine is, then you need to go through the hassle of quick disconnects that are easily accessible.

I would only run a single pressure guage inside your cab, and that would be for the tank pressure. If you have an auto switch, rather an manual switch like mine (If I had all my leak problems solved, I'd use an auto switch again.). If you have the auto switch the interior pressure guage wouldn't be needed and is additional plumbing and connections.

I'm learning that simpler is often better - took me a while to figure that out!!!!!!!!

OneTrickToy

No problem Gibby. Give me your address and I'll send it down when I've got it taken out. I'll most likely send it down Wednesday, so you'll get it Thursday MAYBE Friday. But UPS is pretty fast in-state.

Okay, got a couple of qustions. You say don't put a regulator before the tank. What should I put before the tank, rather after the pump? The tanks will probably max out just over 125 or something, so don't I need to regulate how much air is being stuffed in? A check valve is on my paper plan, it just didn't make it to my simplified post. Ok, I'm probably answering my own question. I should probably put an electronic switch on my pump that kicks in at 80 and shuts off at 125psi right? This would solve the problem of needing a regulator. Any idea how much they cost?

Lastly, as for my output, I plan on putting a quick connect behind my fuel filler door. That way it's kept clean, and I don't have to go crawling under my truck or inside the topper.

Arnold

Here's an OBA article that contains some good info that might be helpful.

http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/toyota/york2/index.shtml

OneTrickToy

What I'm talking about is different than a York compressor. A your compressor is an actual Air Compressor that many people install in their trucks. What I'm doing is an actual conversion of the A/C pump into an air pump. Much cheaper. And it's not like I NEED A/C. It's nice on the few days that get into the 90's. But I'm used to heat. I grew up in Southern Cali.

Arnold

I know you're using the stock AC pump but I figured this diagram in the article http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/toyota/york2/013.jpg
might be helpful in making sure you got all the parts needed.

upndair

The auto switch would solve the problem. I use the in cab guage and a manual shut off. I used to have an auto shut off the one I had was complicated and I took it off.

You want to make sure that you are getting as much air and pressure in your tank(s) as you can. You'll only want to regulate your output and only if you plan to use air tools.

jruz

Actually a York is an A/C compressor...or an air compressor. It's much more versatile than the A/C compressors on our rigs because of the design. It has a crankcase just like an engine, so there is no need to have the lubrication go through the air line.

Also, the York is very cheap ($30-50 at a junk yard)...but engine compartments like ours are short on one thing...space. The York is quite a bit bigger.

Anyway, good luck with your conversion. Sounds like it'll be a worthwhile project.

Jim

Mytyota

you can get a pressure switch that mounts on the tank and turns your compressor on at 90 psi and off at 120 psi theres only 2 wires running from it, one for power and one to the compressor. There a place called Six Robblies in seatown that has them and there under 20 bucks.

OneTrickToy

Under $20??? wow....I figured they'd be at least $50. Awesome!