wimpywade94

hey all, im just starting to get into seriouse wheeling, and i need to rebulild my rear axle anyways, im thinking about putting in a lockright and gears when i do it, any sugestions on other lockers, need to be relativly cheap, and im not doing no major stuff with it, im running 32's now but im going to 33s with a 5 inch suspension lift, i want a front locker and at least a rear limited slip with a front bumper that will hold a winch, now in your experiences whats the best of the cheap so i can start building it! thanks for any help
:pig:

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to the forums.
I'll let the more experienced people answer you on the lockers, but I see you are in WA. state.
I'm not familiar where Benton is though.

A good custom shop in our state is Badland Bumpers.

He made the sliderz on my rig, and they are nice.
A few on the forum here also have his gear, and a few also have his "tube" style front bumper.

Here is a member from here who has the front & rear bumper, and the sliderz from the shop.
http://www.badlandbumpers.com/Index_...PLETE%201A.jpg

wimpywade94

those bumpers look pretty good but already have nerf bars,
benton city is on the east side about an hour out of yakima or vantage and about 2 from spokane, its next to the tri-cities,

im trying to get all mechanical on my truck done before the august trail run, hoping to anyways,
thanks

wade

Robinhood150

Sorry, I can't help you with your locker question, but when you say you have nerf bars, do you mean off the shelf nerfs, like smittys or something? If so, then you really should ditch them and get real sliders. Sliders are made to support the weight of the truck, nerf bars are made to support the weight of a couple people.

rockcrwler

yes for sure ditch the nerfs the only thing you will get done with those is either breaking them off or causing more body damage might as well just take them off and sell them while you can. if i was you i would go with 4.88s if you are only running 33's and still a daily driver second do a locker in the rear and either an e locker or arb in the front.

crawler#976

gears- for 33" tires 4.88:1 will bring it back close to stock ratios

if you EVER think you'll go bigger on tires, get 5.29's NOW!

for average wheelin' a LockRight is fine, and it's cheaper than a Detroit, but not as strong. I use a spool in the rear Diff, and a Detroit up front on my daily driver/trail rig. A spool is the most dependable, cheapest locker available (other than a welded carrier), tough on tires tho-----

Cost is not cheap when re-gearing. Figure it will be about:

$360.00 for GOOD gears- Precision or U.S Gears (two sets)

DON'T WASTE YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON CHEAP GEARS

$240.00 for R/P setup kits (two kits)

about $750.00 or more for setting up both sets of gears- and that amount is if YOU pull the thirds, add another $250.00 if the mechanic pull's them for you.

later

wimpywade94

you say i should run an e locker or arb up front, why? after i take my truck out of 4x4 and i unlock the hubs wont it not matter, just curiouse cause thats the impression i was under, anyways how much would a toyota e locker be after installed if i did work myself do you think?? thanks for the help

wade

upndair

Those prices might be a little high... Typically the gears run about $250 each for good gears (Yukon), about $135 for the master intall kit each and about $250 each if you bring in the truck to have the work done. Some shops will cut you a deal if you do it all at once.

crawler#976

I should have highlighted that those prices were for both sets of gears, both r/p setup kits, and reflect what I payed here in AZ for having the r/p's setup 3 years ago-

wimpywade94

so in the front locker, shouldnt it be that if you shift out of x4 and unlock your hubs it wont matter? wont be like its pulling when im on the road or when im trying to turn will it, im pretty confused on why id need a arb or e locker for the front?

thanks for your help.
wade drunk:

upndair

The ARB requires an on board air system (which you'll proably want anyway if you're going to wheel). The ARB has been tested for years and is very, very hardy. The E-locker is getting some good reviews, doesn't have the problem with the ARB caused by broken or leaky air lines, but it's pretty new on the market. I've read lots of good stuff about it.

Both should be professionally installed and both are pretty darn expensive.

Your perfectly correct about unlocking the front hubs and shifting out of 4wd.

wimpywade94

hey thanks for the info, im just going to put in some quicklocks or lockrights cause there cheap and easy, the next 4x4 i build will be a sas 90's or an 85 with a ford 302. havent decided yet but i will build it over about a year and a 1/2 so ill have plenty of money and time for stuff like that, thanks for the help again.
wade