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Old 06-22-2008, 04:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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body lift needed for slider installation?

I am planning to install a set of TG sliders this week. It looks like I would have to either cut or bend the pinch weld in order to keep the legs from touching the body. Another option is to do a small body lift, like 1'' or 2'' at the most.

Right now I'm leaning towards doing the body lift. I'm planning on welding the sliders on, and thus know that if I want to install a body lift, now is the time since the sliders aren't yet on there. On the other hand, I don't really need the lift for anything other than clearing the sliders. So it might not be worth the $100. But then again, if I need the body lift sometime in the future, I'll be kicking myself in the butt for not installing it now.

any thought or advice appreciated!
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, if you were going to want a lift later then i would get the bl now.
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I have NOOO $$ Im a poor college kid I recently started working so I decided to SAS.
If I dont sas Ill just waste money on chili cheese dogs and beer then Ill be poor, fat, and STILL on ifs.

My build thread
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyNG View Post
I am planning to install a set of TG sliders this week. It looks like I would have to either cut or bend the pinch weld in order to keep the legs from touching the body. Another option is to do a small body lift, like 1'' or 2'' at the most.

Right now I'm leaning towards doing the body lift. I'm planning on welding the sliders on, and thus know that if I want to install a body lift, now is the time since the sliders aren't yet on there. On the other hand, I don't really need the lift for anything other than clearing the sliders. So it might not be worth the $100. But then again, if I need the body lift sometime in the future, I'll be kicking myself in the butt for not installing it now.

any thought or advice appreciated!
IMO no need to cut or bend the pinch weld. No need for a body lift.

Yet if you are going to install a body lift, install it before you install the sliders.

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Old 06-22-2008, 06:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit View Post
IMO no need to cut or bend the pinch weld. No need for a body lift.

Yet if you are going to install a body lift, install it before you install the sliders.

It seems like if I do none of those, then the legs will end up touching the body. Especially once I put a Hi Lift under there, or go over any bumps. But if it can be done the way you say, then that'd be optimal.
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just leave sufficient clearance between the sliders and the pinch weld. I usually install mine with about 1/2" clearance (enough to slide my fingers between the slider tube and pinch weld):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#Installation
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Old 06-23-2008, 06:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you dont need a body lift to clear sliders......just cut the pinch seam and weld em up..... if you gusset them properly you should have no concerns about the sliders flexing into the body when they are hit or have the full weight of the rig on them
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Oh, after a consult with Mr. Anheuser, I think I beer-stormed a way to test the gears
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Your concerned about sliders hitting the body....and you are buying HREW sliders?.....
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1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top.
1990 fj62 stock and mint!
1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, custom snorkle, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Electronic shifters by AWshifting, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system.

The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rnr View Post
Your concerned about sliders hitting the body....and you are buying HREW sliders?.....


They really arent that bad.....I have a set of TG HREWs (couldnt pass up 135 WITH shipping) I've bashed mine pretty hard with no giant dings (yet)

But yes....DOM is preferable
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler.

I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampThing View Post
Oh, after a consult with Mr. Anheuser, I think I beer-stormed a way to test the gears
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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They really arent that bad.....I have a set of TG HREWs (couldnt pass up 135 WITH shipping) I've bashed mine pretty hard with no giant dings (yet)

But yes....DOM is preferable
Im not saying HREW is bad. It will do as it is intended but in my experiance (and this is anticdotal) HREW sliders are kind of like a disposal mantenance item like an alternator. Sooner or later, maybe way later....maybe never they will need to be replaced.

But on topic....they do bend a bit easier and will contact the body. I have had to do the "jump on the slider so my buddy can open his own door" dance a few times.

Back when I bought sliders (before I could make them) they were all DOM (AP). If I had to do it now it would be hard to pass up a set of HREW's for 100$. And many of my friends run them. But I have landed etreemly hard (enough to hurt myself) on my sliders so many times that Im very glad I have DOM.
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1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top.
1990 fj62 stock and mint!
1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, custom snorkle, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Electronic shifters by AWshifting, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system.

The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rnr View Post
Im not saying HREW is bad. It will do as it is intended but in my experiance (and this is anticdotal) HREW sliders are kind of like a disposal mantenance item like an alternator. Sooner or later, maybe way later....maybe never they will need to be replaced.

But on topic....they do bend a bit easier and will contact the body. I have had to do the "jump on the slider so my buddy can open his own door" dance a few times.

Back when I bought sliders (before I could make them) they were all DOM (AP). If I had to do it now it would be hard to pass up a set of HREW's for 100$. And many of my friends run them. But I have landed etreemly hard (enough to hurt myself) on my sliders so many times that Im very glad I have DOM.
no offense taken at all. I got them for $130 including shipping. Couple that with the fact that I'm a broke student who doesn't do much rock crawling, and I think these will work fine for me. thanks for the input though!
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rnr View Post
Im not saying HREW is bad. It will do as it is intended but in my experiance (and this is anticdotal) HREW sliders are kind of like a disposal mantenance item like an alternator. Sooner or later, maybe way later....maybe never they will need to be replaced.
Thats my view as well...I just needed something cheap and quick to save my already bashed rockers.....

They will need to be replaced at some point yes....
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I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampThing View Post
Oh, after a consult with Mr. Anheuser, I think I beer-stormed a way to test the gears
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've got the Stubbs sliders and no body lift is necessary for my sliders and body. The TG sliders are a bit bigger but I think a little shorter so YMMV. What you wouldn't want is them bending (can only take one hit) and the having them contact the body. It would be hard to fix or bend back. The other thing you don't want id for them to contact the body with hard vibration on faster bumpy roads. You might want to get the 1" BL if it's close.
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Old 06-24-2008, 01:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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In my experiance when it does hit the body the damage is minor if at all due to the load being distributed across the entire rocker. that and the rocker is a very stought piece of body.

Once they bend up. just jumping on them usually put them back in place. Or strapping them to the "axle" of a floor jack, and jacking on the frame will move them easily.
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1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top.
1990 fj62 stock and mint!
1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, custom snorkle, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Electronic shifters by AWshifting, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system.

The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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noob here. lookin at sliders for a 2002 4runner limited. what does DOM mean? do most ppl weld them on? what about skid plates? im looking for armor in the chicago area. is shipping outrageous for this stuff?
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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what does DOM mean? do most ppl weld them on? what about skid plates? im looking for armor in the chicago area. is shipping outrageous for this stuff?
Per:
- http://www.izook.com/spy/rock4x/rock4x.htm

Quote:
Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM)
DOM is formed from strip and Electric Resistance Welded (ERW) then cold drawn through a die and over a mandrel resulting in improved inner surfaces and dimensional quality. This process, called cold drawing, may be repeated more than once to reach the planned OD, ID, or wall dimension. Multiple draws can also be used to increase the strength or improve the surface finish of the tubes. During the drawing operation, the tubes may be process annealed to increase the ductility of the material. Lower cost alternative to CDS with equal or superior physical properties.
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Nope, no body lift is necessary.

Like has been said 10 times already, think about your plans for your rig before you start welding them up. If you plan on lifting it in the future, go ahead and do that now so you can be sure the spacing will be right.

I had the TG HREW sliders on my 4Runner and I could jack that thing up all day long with my Hi-Lift and it was fine. I had about 1/2" clearance (as Roger suggested) between the slider and the pinch weld.

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