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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Redlands, CA
Posts: 247
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body lift needed for slider installation?
I am planning to install a set of TG sliders this week. It looks like I would have to either cut or bend the pinch weld in order to keep the legs from touching the body. Another option is to do a small body lift, like 1'' or 2'' at the most.
Right now I'm leaning towards doing the body lift. I'm planning on welding the sliders on, and thus know that if I want to install a body lift, now is the time since the sliders aren't yet on there. On the other hand, I don't really need the lift for anything other than clearing the sliders. So it might not be worth the $100. But then again, if I need the body lift sometime in the future, I'll be kicking myself in the butt for not installing it now. any thought or advice appreciated!
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1986 pickup 4x4 SR5, 31x10.5 BFG All-Terrains, Ranchos, 2" body lift, Downey grille guard and skid plate, TG sliders |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 1,864
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Well, if you were going to want a lift later then i would get the bl now.
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1990 4runner SR5, 3.0 with 254K, 5-speed, 4.56 gears, , Rancho 9000's, 33X12.50's trxus mt's, rear lock right, 4" lift with lc coils in rear Quote:
My build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f152/904_run...thread-158746/ |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Sponsoring Member
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Quote:
Yet if you are going to install a body lift, install it before you install the sliders. ![]()
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WabFab Off-Road, LLC www.myspace.com/wabfab FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner GRAY FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner RED 6th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, May 22-25, 2009 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Redlands, CA
Posts: 247
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It seems like if I do none of those, then the legs will end up touching the body. Especially once I put a Hi Lift under there, or go over any bumps. But if it can be done the way you say, then that'd be optimal.
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1986 pickup 4x4 SR5, 31x10.5 BFG All-Terrains, Ranchos, 2" body lift, Downey grille guard and skid plate, TG sliders |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 6,211
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Just leave sufficient clearance between the sliders and the pinch weld. I usually install mine with about 1/2" clearance (enough to slide my fingers between the slider tube and pinch weld):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#Installation
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,398
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you dont need a body lift to clear sliders......just cut the pinch seam and weld em up..... if you gusset them properly you should have no concerns about the sliders flexing into the body when they are hit or have the full weight of the rig on them
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 1,175
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Your concerned about sliders hitting the body....and you are buying HREW sliders?.....
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poop 1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top. 1990 fj62 stock and mint! 1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, custom snorkle, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Electronic shifters by AWshifting, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system. The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915 |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,398
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Quote:
They really arent that bad.....I have a set of TG HREWs (couldnt pass up 135 WITH shipping) I've bashed mine pretty hard with no giant dings (yet) But yes....DOM is preferable
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 1,175
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Quote:
But on topic....they do bend a bit easier and will contact the body. I have had to do the "jump on the slider so my buddy can open his own door" dance a few times. Back when I bought sliders (before I could make them) they were all DOM (AP). If I had to do it now it would be hard to pass up a set of HREW's for 100$. And many of my friends run them. But I have landed etreemly hard (enough to hurt myself) on my sliders so many times that Im very glad I have DOM.
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poop 1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top. 1990 fj62 stock and mint! 1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, custom snorkle, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Electronic shifters by AWshifting, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system. The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915 |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Redlands, CA
Posts: 247
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Quote:
__________________
1986 pickup 4x4 SR5, 31x10.5 BFG All-Terrains, Ranchos, 2" body lift, Downey grille guard and skid plate, TG sliders |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,398
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Quote:
They will need to be replaced at some point yes....
__________________
Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. I'm the yota junk man......PM me for ALL your parts needs NEW or USED Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 36
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I've got the Stubbs sliders and no body lift is necessary for my sliders and body. The TG sliders are a bit bigger but I think a little shorter so YMMV. What you wouldn't want is them bending (can only take one hit) and the having them contact the body. It would be hard to fix or bend back. The other thing you don't want id for them to contact the body with hard vibration on faster bumpy roads. You might want to get the 1" BL if it's close.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 1,175
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In my experiance when it does hit the body the damage is minor if at all due to the load being distributed across the entire rocker. that and the rocker is a very stought piece of body.
Once they bend up. just jumping on them usually put them back in place. Or strapping them to the "axle" of a floor jack, and jacking on the frame will move them easily.
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poop 1988 stock 4runner, v6, 5spd, soft top. 1990 fj62 stock and mint! 1992 4runner, 3.4, auto, SAS'ed, Marlin USA springs (4"/5"), 37" PBR's, 30 spline Longfields, Hydro assist, dual inchworms (5:1, twin stick, 23 spline, chromo output, 10* clock) 5.29's, lockrite's, custom exo, custom snorkle, High angle drivelines drive shafts, 108" wheelbase, Warn hs9500i, Electronic shifters by AWshifting, Mcintosh/Dynaudio a/v system. The build up...http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=74915 |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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noob here. lookin at sliders for a 2002 4runner limited. what does DOM mean? do most ppl weld them on? what about skid plates? im looking for armor in the chicago area. is shipping outrageous for this stuff?
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wish i could change my name to "OffRoadRunner"... "Old man gold" 2002 4runner limited: -Sonoran Steel 1.2 -Bud Built Skid and Belly Plate -Yokahama Geolander AT-S 285/75/16s -AEM CAI -TRD Cat-back -Trans cooler -Cobra Ashtray Mounted CB radio -Firestick side antenna mount and 4' firestik II -De-badged (much cleaner) Soon to be added: -Stubbs sliders -Matching alloy spare -Snowboard rackS i need to carry 4! |
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#15 (permalink) | ||
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 6,211
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Quote:
- http://www.izook.com/spy/rock4x/rock4x.htm Quote:
__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Centerton, AR
Posts: 4,676
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Nope, no body lift is necessary.
Like has been said 10 times already, think about your plans for your rig before you start welding them up. If you plan on lifting it in the future, go ahead and do that now so you can be sure the spacing will be right. I had the TG HREW sliders on my 4Runner and I could jack that thing up all day long with my Hi-Lift and it was fine. I had about 1/2" clearance (as Roger suggested) between the slider and the pinch weld. Fink ![]() |
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