Bentup or 4Crawler rock sliders?
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,683
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bentup or 4Crawler rock sliders?
Ive decided on either of the 2 sliders below but cant make up my mind.
1) Bentup Double square rocker skids (bolt on)
http://www.bentup.com/rockerskids.html
This picture has the welded style mounts (only one i could find)
2) 4Crawler Rock SliderZ (bolt on)
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RockSliderZ.shtml
What would you get and why?
1) Bentup Double square rocker skids (bolt on)
http://www.bentup.com/rockerskids.html
This picture has the welded style mounts (only one i could find)
2) 4Crawler Rock SliderZ (bolt on)
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RockSliderZ.shtml
What would you get and why?
Last edited by rocket; 07-13-2005 at 01:42 AM. Reason: left out words :(
#3
Look at the ends of the sliders. One is angled, and boxed in. The other is wide open. I would pick the boxed in set, and weld them on. The other could hang on a rock, and not slide past if in a tight spot. IMHO
If you take them offroad and really test them, let me know what you find out. I could have used sliders at BMRA, but now have a nice little dent in my driver rocker panel.
If you take them offroad and really test them, let me know what you find out. I could have used sliders at BMRA, but now have a nice little dent in my driver rocker panel.
Last edited by Cedarbarn; 07-12-2005 at 09:30 PM.
#5
I have not heard of many (if any) people having issues with the open-endedness of the 4Crawler sliders anymore than they'd have trouble with the open spaces on any part of the slider. The nice thing about the 4Crawler sliders (aside from what I've already mentioned) is the fact that you can get them with kick outs if you're running larger tires. I don't know much about Bent-up, but I do know that with Roger at 4Crawler, you'll be more than happy not only with the sliders you end up with, but with the customer service as well.
#6
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Cedarbarn
Look at the ends of the sliders. One is angled, and boxed in. The other is wide open. I would pick the boxed in set, and weld them on. The other could hang on a rock, and not slide past if in a tight spot. IMHO
Trending Topics
#10
Originally Posted by EWAYota
the fact that rodgers is open isnt a factor. the longer bar is tucked under the truck. scroll down this thread and you can see how they look on Rocky's Runner. Super clean and really look great. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=rocky
I wonder why I am on this board anyway, I get flamed more here than TTR, TTORA, TXTTORA, etc.
Have fun kids, I am going offraod with my ÅÅÅÅ.
#11
Originally Posted by Cedarbarn
Yeah, I know what they look like, thanks. I watched them get welded on.
I wonder why I am on this board anyway, I get flamed more here than TTR, TTORA, TXTTORA, etc.
Have fun kids, I am going offraod with my ÅÅÅÅ.
I wonder why I am on this board anyway, I get flamed more here than TTR, TTORA, TXTTORA, etc.
Have fun kids, I am going offraod with my ÅÅÅÅ.
#12
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Cedarbarn
Yeah, I know what they look like, thanks. I watched them get welded on.
I wonder why I am on this board anyway, I get flamed more here than TTR, TTORA, TXTTORA, etc.
Have fun kids, I am going offraod with my ÅÅÅÅ.
I wonder why I am on this board anyway, I get flamed more here than TTR, TTORA, TXTTORA, etc.
Have fun kids, I am going offraod with my ÅÅÅÅ.
#14
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
I originally ran a slider that had outer tubes that dove back into the frame at each end:
And I can't count the times I got hung up on rocks getting jammed into the notch formed by the end of the slider and the tire, usually leaving a nice dent in my fender in the process.
Since switching to the full length ends (w/ optional kickouts), I have not been hung up in a similar manner, including trails like the Rubicon, Moab, Hammers, Dusy, etc. By leaving the ends of the bars open with a beveled end cap facing down, the chances of jamming something up between the tire and slider seems to be lessened. I find the kicked out ends, with wider tires, makes a nice combination as well. The kicked out end pushes the truck away from the rock until the tire has a chance to grab it. With a diving in end, you'll slide along the rock then fall into it as the slider end dives back into the frame. Happened to me about 10 times in a row getting into the Little Sluice on the 'con a few years back, until I finally found a line where I did not touch the slider getting around the big boulder on the driver's side:
The diesign also puts the outer tube higher than the inner tube for better clearance. On the early models, the outer tube is a full 2" higher than the inner, later models are a bit lower, but every inch of clearance you can get is worth it.
And I can't count the times I got hung up on rocks getting jammed into the notch formed by the end of the slider and the tire, usually leaving a nice dent in my fender in the process.
Since switching to the full length ends (w/ optional kickouts), I have not been hung up in a similar manner, including trails like the Rubicon, Moab, Hammers, Dusy, etc. By leaving the ends of the bars open with a beveled end cap facing down, the chances of jamming something up between the tire and slider seems to be lessened. I find the kicked out ends, with wider tires, makes a nice combination as well. The kicked out end pushes the truck away from the rock until the tire has a chance to grab it. With a diving in end, you'll slide along the rock then fall into it as the slider end dives back into the frame. Happened to me about 10 times in a row getting into the Little Sluice on the 'con a few years back, until I finally found a line where I did not touch the slider getting around the big boulder on the driver's side:
The diesign also puts the outer tube higher than the inner tube for better clearance. On the early models, the outer tube is a full 2" higher than the inner, later models are a bit lower, but every inch of clearance you can get is worth it.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 07-12-2005 at 09:54 PM.
#15
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,683
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I posted this in a hurry while leaving work...just got home and theres all these good replies
ok, I know Rodger Brown has top notch customer service but so does Bentup.
I understand the differences of both sliders. I'll narrow it down to this now...
If i get the 4Crawler sliderz with 33X10.50 tires, should i get the 1" kickout just incase i get 33x12.50 tires?
What could be more of a problem: 1" kickout with 10.50 or straight bars with 12.50?
thanks for all replies...
ok, I know Rodger Brown has top notch customer service but so does Bentup.
I understand the differences of both sliders. I'll narrow it down to this now...
If i get the 4Crawler sliderz with 33X10.50 tires, should i get the 1" kickout just incase i get 33x12.50 tires?
What could be more of a problem: 1" kickout with 10.50 or straight bars with 12.50?
thanks for all replies...
#17
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
As noted on the web page, see how far the tires you have or are planning to get will stick outside of the fenders. Take that distance, halve it and that is the size kickout that works well. A straight bar also works well, some folks with wide r wheels/tires gets straight bars. Basically, you don't want the outer tube sticking out much wider than the tires or it may become a rock magnet.
But that said, I've wheeled for about 4 years now with 2" kicked out bars (set up for my old 33x15.50 Swampers) with 33x10.50 tires, sliders are wider that the rubber:
Did not have any trouble with this setup, either. Neither option would be a "problem", just more what you want and plan for your truck. I set mine up for the 15.50" wide tires on 10" wide rims and then went to 10.50 tires on 6" rims, pulling the tires in about 5" per side and did not change the sliders. Might have looked a little odd, but it got me through a number of good trails like that.
But that said, I've wheeled for about 4 years now with 2" kicked out bars (set up for my old 33x15.50 Swampers) with 33x10.50 tires, sliders are wider that the rubber:
Did not have any trouble with this setup, either. Neither option would be a "problem", just more what you want and plan for your truck. I set mine up for the 15.50" wide tires on 10" wide rims and then went to 10.50 tires on 6" rims, pulling the tires in about 5" per side and did not change the sliders. Might have looked a little odd, but it got me through a number of good trails like that.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 07-12-2005 at 10:51 PM.
#18
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,683
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4Crawler, your pics and advice has been very helpful. you too r0cky
What im doing is building a moderate to semi-serious rig. Its almost bone stock at the moment (i have $3,000 to blow with more coming). I'm basically buying a lot of things all at once and i dont have tires, yet.
Im convinced now on getting the 4Crawler silderZ and i'll be ordering a R.B. 1" BL as well. My suspension is still undecided partly due to the choice of 10.50 or 12.50 but i know i want/need sliders now.
With that said, (sorry its not much) what would you get..straight sliderZ or the 1" kickout? I dont have the ability to measure anything right now but I can say i wont ever go bigger than 33X12.50
What im doing is building a moderate to semi-serious rig. Its almost bone stock at the moment (i have $3,000 to blow with more coming). I'm basically buying a lot of things all at once and i dont have tires, yet.
Im convinced now on getting the 4Crawler silderZ and i'll be ordering a R.B. 1" BL as well. My suspension is still undecided partly due to the choice of 10.50 or 12.50 but i know i want/need sliders now.
With that said, (sorry its not much) what would you get..straight sliderZ or the 1" kickout? I dont have the ability to measure anything right now but I can say i wont ever go bigger than 33X12.50
Last edited by rocket; 07-12-2005 at 11:25 PM.
#20
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
I give some tips on measureing tire/track width with changes in tire and wheel size and offset on this section of my web page:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires...ningTrackWidth
Or wait until the lift is on, wheels and tires installed and check then.
Basically though it is all about what you want. Some folks like the look of the kickouts, some prefer the "cleaner" lines of the straight bar. Some get just a rear kickout, some front and rear. You could always order them straight then have them modified later if you want a kickout. Just take a cut along the outside edge, bend the tube outward and weld up the seam and repaint.
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires...ningTrackWidth
Or wait until the lift is on, wheels and tires installed and check then.
Basically though it is all about what you want. Some folks like the look of the kickouts, some prefer the "cleaner" lines of the straight bar. Some get just a rear kickout, some front and rear. You could always order them straight then have them modified later if you want a kickout. Just take a cut along the outside edge, bend the tube outward and weld up the seam and repaint.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 07-13-2005 at 06:49 AM.