DocShock

FINALLY!! Put the ol' 4runner to rest for awhile, and picked up a 2005 Tundra 4.7 Auto 4x4 Crew (double) cab Limited with 98k...
She drove excellent home (2oo miles), averaged about 15-16 mpg
After driving her a month, city mileage is 14.2, which doesn't bother me a bit. I love the power of this truck even with the smaller block motor, and have run it thru a few trails and holes already, and was pleasantly surprised by her off road capability (nothing to crazy, just took my 6 & 8 year old out trailing).. It is such a comfortable truck (compared to the 94 4runner, LOL), and I love her
A few of the upgrades I plan on doing soon:
Weather tech or husky mats
Seat covers - thinking wet okole or similar
Dash mat
CAI - possibly K&N - anyone have any thoughts there? Any other engine performance mods quick/cheap/easy I should start with?
Headers and new exhaust - any thoughts there?
Timing belt/water pump job
Surface rust under carriage
Eventually 4-5" suspension lift and Nitto 33-35" tires

I have a couple of questions...
When I first test drove her, at idle, I noticed a slight squeal/squeak that I chalked up to the belt (it was a bitter 45 degrees that night here in S Fla), but as the engine warmed it disappeared... It didn't return until just recently:
But now, not until I hit about 20 mph driving does it return..
It's not God-awful loud, the radio drowns it out, but its there.
It does NOT change with engine rev, putting in neutral, a/c on or off, etc.
My next step is to pull the belt and spin all the pulleys, and replace the belt.
EDIT!: On the way to work this am, I tried a few things... mainly, i put all the windows up except for the back one, and that squeal was very prominent.. Being that it doesn't change with engine rev etc, could it be coming from the driveshaft or rearend?? Guess tomorrow putting her up on blocks and going thru everything with the grease gun, maybe even putting her in drive jacked up to see if something in the driveline is squealing?

Theres no timing belt sticker, so I know that's a must soon - anyone have an idea $ for that job - I read the thread previously posted and I just don't have the down time to do it myself... Could the squeal be the tensioner pulley? I just assumed revving the engine would increase/decrease the noise if it was pulley related?
Any ideas on that much appreciated.

Next question: I've noticed when I come to a stop, usually a pretty abrupt stop, and then let off the brake to move again, there is a clunk (the clunk made me check the transmission mount to make sure it wasn't broken) - almost felt like the rear end had torqued up and shifted back down? Any Tundra guys ever had that feeling?

I also have abit of surface rust on the under carriage, rear axle, driveshaft, body mounts, etc... I was thinking about spraying Os Pho under there to kill the rust and then under coat everything? Any thoughts on that? (anyone know if the os pho would effect rubber brake lines or any other thing underneath the truck?)

My next step with the truck is to put her up in the air and give her a good greasing, check all the fittings and begin to adress the surface rust and anything else I find.

Last question, being that it is a Limited model, it has mostly all the options, but not leather...was this common not having leather in a limited?

I will post some pics as I can, I am pretty excited about the truck!! Just want to get her in tip top shape, as she has to last me at least 3 years or so!

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

87TurboYota

Doc - I just bought a 2005 Tundra Limited Double cab a couple weeks ago. I'll be interested in the answers you receive. I notice when I brake hard that it feels like the rear end torques up. I haven't noticed a clunk though. Could be related to the squeal you are hearing.
My limited does have leather I bet cloth would be pretty rare in the Limited model.
They had undercoating recall and I had mine sprayed this week. However, this recall is only available in certain states.
I also have Weathertech mats and I've never had them before and I really like them so far.

CJM

The clunk is the driveshaft, grease the crap out of it and it goes away. My t100 does same thing, 2 pc driveshaft I think is the issue.

As for painting the under carriage. Rustoleum rust converter topped off with rustleum pro black. Just did my rear diff over again cause it had some nasty rust (swapped rears awhile back) and sprayed with those two and its been a nasty winter in NJ with lots of snow and salt..no rust.

toyota4x4907

The 2UZ-FE is an awesome engine. Far superior to the 22re and 3vze.
My Tundra has done the clunk thing the entire 2 years I've owned it but I have never had any issues nor I have I looked into it though.

Check out TundraSolutions.com for a much larger group of knowledge.

DocShock

Thanks guys, I did join tundra solutions and found out the clunk is the driveshaft - where the 2 driveshafts meet, is there a zirk fitting? I couldn't find one but i didnt get chance to clean good under there yet. I greased all the u joints, but the squeal/whine over 20 is still there. Ill have to look into the recall, probably not if FL for the unercarriage..It surprised me when I saw it.. nothing bad deterioration, just a lot of surface rust.
Again, Thanks for the replies... Lovin' this baby, that is for sure!

DocShock

Are you talking the zirk fitting on the second (rear) driveshaft near the rear diff u-joint?
I put 5-6 pumps in there, but didn't want to go crazy.. where does that grease come out? is that the fitting for the 2 driveshaft linkage?
Thanks

DocShock

How many miles on your Tundra?
Has the timing belt/water pump been changed yet?
Done anything else to her yet?
Def a nice riding, comfortable, capable truck!

I read on tundra solutions that the CAI and exhaust makes some noticeable improvements, so after the timing/water pump that is high on my to do list...

CJM

There are zerks all over the shaft. You need to jack up the back and have the truck in neutral and you can spin the shaft, there are zerks in the double cardan shaft.

87TurboYota

There are 105k miles on my 2005 Tundra. I love it. It rides great and does everything well. It does have a wide turning radius but it is a long truck.
I didn't get any records from the previous owner but he told me he took it to the dealership every 30k miles for service. I went to a Toyota dealership and they printed all the service records. The timing belt was replaced at 90k.

I think painting your frame with Rustoleum is a good idea. I got mine sprayed at the dealer and I'm glad I did (free) but they didn't do as good of a job as I would have. Rustoleum will have smoother finish than what the dealership used. I still have areas that I'm going to paint. I've also used Kimball Midwest paints on frames before and that is a very good paint but you have to order and it is more expensive than Rustoleum.

DocShock

Gotchya, that's exactly what I did... The only zerks I found on the rear 2 driveshafts was on each u-joint (there's 4 on the 2 rear shafts - 1 zerk at every ujoint and 1 at the junction of the 2 shafts, and one zerk on the rear shaft by the diff) totalling 6 zerks.
I figured there'd be some way to grease the mounting bracket that the front of the 2 rear shafts sits in: I thought maybe that hole in front of the 2 ujoints led to a zerk, but cannot find one upon spinning the shaft:



The rear ujoint and zerk on the sliding shaft


You can also get an idea of the surface rust under there...so rustoleum makes a paint that halts or kills the rust, and then spray over that with the black? Think I should spray the driveshaft, rear axle/diff, and everything pretty much metal under there?

Thanks for all the replies, fellas!
Doc

DocShock

Cool, glad yours has had it done! A guy on tundratalk.net told me he just had it done for $610 total parts and labor...about what I figured..
Lack of time prevents me from digging in..I think I could handle it, but damn, I already need about 6 more hours a day how it is, LOL
What'd you pay for your truck (if ya don't mind)?
I paid 15k plus tax, had to use a dealer, they were actually had the only 4x4 crew cab at the time I was buying in the whole state! The only thing that threw me a bit when I saw it first was the cloth seats..has power seats, but no leather..Maybe it was a special order or something? I have dealer service records thru 55k (has 99 on it now), so I feel pretty good, and like I said, the dealer replaced the rear driveshafts (probably for the clunking) about 52k..
Have a great weekend!
Doc

DocShock

Next thing I will do is replace the serp belt... the dang squealing/whining is still there after greasing the heck outta the driveshafts..I guess having the rear window down just lets the motor noise in thru between the bed and the cab louder..
But why wouldn't the whine change with RPM? Maybe one of the pulleys, or something?

Just looking at it quickly this am, and there is no tensioner? Ya gotta loosen up the a/c or power steering mount to get the belt slack?
Thanks

CJM

Yea my truck looked similar. I sprayed with the rustoleum rust converter after I pressure washed and made sure was dry. Then I coated over it after a few hours with the rustoleum pro (drys faster than standard paint). Very little rust came back. This is only for surface rust tho, if you can chip it away decently you need to clean it off with say a wire brush.

87TurboYota

Doc - What the latest on your truck? The only surprise I've had is I put a CD in and I can't get it out. I've ordered a new stereo from Crutchfield but won't arrive until early April.
I knew I was going to have to get remote fobs because the previous owner lost them both. I ordered two key fobs off the internet and tried to self program them but I think because I don't have an original key it won't work. Anyone else had this issue?

DocShock

Well, still chasing my slight squeal/whine. Changed the serp belt and tensioner pulley, diff and tcase fluids to RP (but they had been done recently, I was pleasantly surprised). Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, new denso iridium plugs.
Just ordered the scan gauge 2 for it so I can really get a handle on the efficiency. Still averaging 14.2-14.5 so I want to try a few things to see what I can get. The SG just makes it easier for me to see real time what's working and not.
I'm gonna start looking into the squeal over 20mph a little more, gonna research the driveshaft carrier bearing and see what I come up with (I can hear it the best with the back window down, thinking its driveline). Oh and greased the driveline/steering and suspension all real good.
I really just need to securely jack up the rear and get the wheels spinning over 20 so I can see where the hell that noise is coming from.

Aside from that, I LOVE THIS THING!! Looking at doing the bilstein 5100's to level her out and maybe a 1.5" aal in the rear. Clamping down the cv boots and maybe lowering the front diff an inch. Will go ahead and replace the steering rack bushings and sway bushings/end links while I'm at it. Once these tires wear out, will consider what size to go with next (stock 265/65 r17 on there now). Then maybe headers and intake mods, maybe a chip after that I don't know?

I lover her as she is, tho! These are just mods to keep me interested over the next few years!

Thanks,
Doc!

DocShock

Oh and this damn tpms!! I guess one or more of the sensors batteries went dead (light constantly flashing)
Didn't know the spare had one too so just checked and corrected that psi but still flashing, lol

87TurboYota

Wow you aren't playing around. You have been busy and have a lot of plans. I bought mine with 2.5 leveling kit and it has 265/70 R17 Goodyear Wranglers on it. I'm going to replace them the same size I think General Grabber AT2s. It is the best riding full size truck I've ever ridden in.
I haven't checked the gas mileage. I'm a little afraid to. I'll have to check that and let you know. When I got the maintenance records on my truck from Toyota there was one entry where the truck was brought in to have that tpms code cleared because the light wouldn't go off.
I changed the oil on it last night and used Mobil 1 full synthetic. I'm up to 106,700 miles. I've never heard of lowering the front diff what is the advantage doing that?

DocShock

Ya nothing is wrong with it, I love it and I want to keep it in tip top shape, lol
Diff lowering is just a spacer that lowers to diff to reduce the dangle of the cv joints. Some guys say do it se don't. 2.5" I'd do it just to be safe. Check your cv boots. The joint on the inside can start to rub it and rear it from the inside out. Also check to make you are not slinging cv grease from the stock clamps. It's a pretty easy fix with 2 hose clamps if you are. I won't change the tires for awhile being mine are new, but want to level it out, and maybe eventually go with 285/70 r17 (about 32.7"). But who knows!? I should go on and do the shocks/struts soon and I'll probably do the diff lowering, cc boot clamps and new ploy steering rack bushings then and sway bar bushings.
Good luck man, and check out tundrasolutions.com too. World of info on 1st gen tundras.