skrassow's 1999 Tacoma Build-Up Thread
06-01-2009, 08:48 AM
#81
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OK, heres an observation. When starting the truck, when its still cold, it will go into open loop. But it is real lean during this time. It says open loop but is only running about high 15 low 16 AFR. It also seemed to be stuck in open loop...it didnt want to go to closed loop even after it was warm. Restarting it got it to switch over. So Im not sure what to make of that, other than possibly the stock fuel pump just isnt putting out enough to keep up in open loop? I plan to swap that this weekend. all closed loop operations is still pretty good on the AFR.
When letting off the gas, in gear, should I see it lean out? This should be an open loop operation as well correct? If so it should be going to the 11.8 range, not the other way. Just tuning may of course help that, Im just not sure what point to start making adjustments without a datalogger.
Im still waiting on a response from tech support about the datalogger issue, in the mean time Im driving it sparingly and keeping an eye on things, trying to figure out what I can.
On the 02 calibrator, TA, you are using the AFR calibrator correct? If I understand correctly then these units basically do the same thing, just go about it differently. You truck has the newer wideband typs factory sensors and mine has the older ones. so its a diff box, but the concept for tuning it is the same.
When letting off the gas, in gear, should I see it lean out? This should be an open loop operation as well correct? If so it should be going to the 11.8 range, not the other way. Just tuning may of course help that, Im just not sure what point to start making adjustments without a datalogger.
Im still waiting on a response from tech support about the datalogger issue, in the mean time Im driving it sparingly and keeping an eye on things, trying to figure out what I can.
On the 02 calibrator, TA, you are using the AFR calibrator correct? If I understand correctly then these units basically do the same thing, just go about it differently. You truck has the newer wideband typs factory sensors and mine has the older ones. so its a diff box, but the concept for tuning it is the same.
I would not worry too much about when it switches from open to closed loop at this point.
Yes, when you let off the gas it will go real lean for a second, totally normal.
No, i am using the O2 calbrator like you, except i got the cheaper version that comes pre-set and you can't adjust. It keeps me at about 13 afr when boosting in closed loop, not perfect but better then nothing.
06-01-2009, 09:53 AM
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Thats interesting about the open loop on start up. I knew it would do this especially when cold. But I really figured I would see the 11.8ish AFR, or in the least a 14.7. I wonder how its different then any other time you are in open loop?
Also interesting about it going lean when you come off the gas. I wasn't expecting to see that. Good to know thats normal as well.
I see you calibrator now, I didnt realize they had a preset one. Is that the one that comes as the AFR option to the 7th kit? If so that a pretty good cut off the stand alone price. I would have gone that route if I could have. I am a bit confused though, you said its the 02 calibrator. Shouldnt yours be the AFR calibrator? 99 Tacoma still used the older style sensor but the 4runner went to the AFR style, correct?
Also interesting about it going lean when you come off the gas. I wasn't expecting to see that. Good to know thats normal as well.
I see you calibrator now, I didnt realize they had a preset one. Is that the one that comes as the AFR option to the 7th kit? If so that a pretty good cut off the stand alone price. I would have gone that route if I could have. I am a bit confused though, you said its the 02 calibrator. Shouldnt yours be the AFR calibrator? 99 Tacoma still used the older style sensor but the 4runner went to the AFR style, correct?
06-01-2009, 09:57 AM
#83
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Thats interesting about the open loop on start up. I knew it would do this especially when cold. But I really figured I would see the 11.8ish AFR, or in the least a 14.7. I wonder how its different then any other time you are in open loop?
Also interesting about it going lean when you come off the gas. I wasn't expecting to see that. Good to know thats normal as well.
I see you calibrator now, I didnt realize they had a preset one. Is that the one that comes as the AFR option to the 7th kit? If so that a pretty good cut off the stand alone price. I would have gone that route if I could have. I am a bit confused though, you said its the 02 calibrator. Shouldnt yours be the AFR calibrator? 99 Tacoma still used the older style sensor but the 4runner went to the AFR style, correct?
Also interesting about it going lean when you come off the gas. I wasn't expecting to see that. Good to know thats normal as well.
I see you calibrator now, I didnt realize they had a preset one. Is that the one that comes as the AFR option to the 7th kit? If so that a pretty good cut off the stand alone price. I would have gone that route if I could have. I am a bit confused though, you said its the 02 calibrator. Shouldnt yours be the AFR calibrator? 99 Tacoma still used the older style sensor but the 4runner went to the AFR style, correct?
As for letting off thegas going lean, it goes into fuel cut when you let off the gas and since you are not making any power at that point going lean doesn't effect anything.
06-01-2009, 10:02 AM
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Ah, fuel cut...makes sense now. Ill have to watch the fuel state page and look for that.
For some reason I though all the 200 and later runners had AFR. Intresting to know. So you have one or two 02 sensors?
For some reason I though all the 200 and later runners had AFR. Intresting to know. So you have one or two 02 sensors?
06-01-2009, 10:03 AM
#85
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I have 2 O2 sensors. From the way i understand it only the cail model 3rd gen 4runners had the AFR, all 4th gens have an AFR though.
06-03-2009, 07:20 PM
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OK, for anyone looking into this mod...install the AFR guage and monitor your OBD info BEFORE you do the SC install. It will make things much easier!
Also, new part # for the TRD AIC chack valve; PTR26-35042. This is WAY bigger than what I was using! This would (IMHO) acount for the occasional stutter under full throttle, as pressure surges though the system I believe I may be getting boost into the AIC line. This would account for that. I am also wandering if this would somehow acount for the high AFR (lean) during cold start, and its reluctance to go back into closed loop? Its odd...Im lean on a cold start, enough to throw a CEL (anyone know what the parameters for the CEL are? How lean for how long before the light triggers). But if it gets warm and stays in open loop...just clear it, restart the truck and it will come back in closed loop, AFR on target. Odd
Another possible culprit could be O2 sensor failing.
I believe I have the datalogger issue resolved. So this weekend (its a "fly week" for me so I havnt had time to mess with it), I will record the data and go from there. Replacing the valve and gasket first. then maybe the O2 sensors if the start up issue is still there.
On the R4 software, I notice that several of the cells turn green or red. What does this indicate? Also, just to clarify and flaunt my ignorance...i am still seeing timing of 30deg advance under heavy accell. To get that back towards 20 I need a LARGER # in that sell in the R4 software, correct? I just rad through speedy's thread again and I think I confused myself
. I think they were using a different piggyback so the #'s are different.
Also, new part # for the TRD AIC chack valve; PTR26-35042. This is WAY bigger than what I was using! This would (IMHO) acount for the occasional stutter under full throttle, as pressure surges though the system I believe I may be getting boost into the AIC line. This would account for that. I am also wandering if this would somehow acount for the high AFR (lean) during cold start, and its reluctance to go back into closed loop? Its odd...Im lean on a cold start, enough to throw a CEL (anyone know what the parameters for the CEL are? How lean for how long before the light triggers). But if it gets warm and stays in open loop...just clear it, restart the truck and it will come back in closed loop, AFR on target. Odd
Another possible culprit could be O2 sensor failing.I believe I have the datalogger issue resolved. So this weekend (its a "fly week" for me so I havnt had time to mess with it), I will record the data and go from there. Replacing the valve and gasket first. then maybe the O2 sensors if the start up issue is still there.
On the R4 software, I notice that several of the cells turn green or red. What does this indicate? Also, just to clarify and flaunt my ignorance...i am still seeing timing of 30deg advance under heavy accell. To get that back towards 20 I need a LARGER # in that sell in the R4 software, correct? I just rad through speedy's thread again and I think I confused myself
. I think they were using a different piggyback so the #'s are different.
06-03-2009, 08:34 PM
#87
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30 degrees is WAY to much, if that is true then something is WAY off. Check your timing and see what you are actually running.
You are looking for about 14 degrees of Actual advance (the OBD should say 20 degrees but you are taking ~6 degrees out with the piggy back).
The start up lean issue is quite odd, your O2 sensor may indeed be the problem. It should never get lean enough to throw a cel.
You are looking for about 14 degrees of Actual advance (the OBD should say 20 degrees but you are taking ~6 degrees out with the piggy back).
The start up lean issue is quite odd, your O2 sensor may indeed be the problem. It should never get lean enough to throw a cel.
06-03-2009, 09:10 PM
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On the R4 software, I notice that several of the cells turn green or red. What does this indicate? Also, just to clarify and flaunt my ignorance...i am still seeing timing of 30deg advance under heavy accell. To get that back towards 20 I need a LARGER # in that sell in the R4 software, correct? I just rad through speedy's thread again and I think I confused myself. I think they were using a different piggyback so the #'s are different.
. I think they were using a different piggyback so the #'s are different.Edit: I looked it up...so if the cell is black the duty cycle is below 85%. If the cell is green then the duty cycle is over 85%. If the cell is red then the duty cycle is over 100%
http://www.splitsec.com/products/datapdfs/R4DS~1.pdf
06-04-2009, 05:52 AM
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The color of the cells designates the duty cycle of the injector in the mapping table.
Edit: I looked it up...so if the cell is black the duty cycle is below 85%. If the cell is green then the duty cycle is over 85%. If the cell is red then the duty cycle is over 100%
http://www.splitsec.com/products/datapdfs/R4DS~1.pdf
Edit: I looked it up...so if the cell is black the duty cycle is below 85%. If the cell is green then the duty cycle is over 85%. If the cell is red then the duty cycle is over 100%
http://www.splitsec.com/products/datapdfs/R4DS~1.pdf
06-04-2009, 06:04 AM
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So what do the colors mean on the timing map? Thats actually where I have them, I dont notice anything about that in the manual.
On the timing...the OBD is reading around 30. Still around 10 at Idle though. And I have about 6deg pulled with through the box at the point OBD is showing 30. So thats really 24. But still a good bit more than others are seeing.
Ive got to go fly here in a min, and tonight is wing night at the local bar
so Im not gonna get to mess with it today. Hopefully Ill be able to play with it tomorrow.
On the timing...the OBD is reading around 30. Still around 10 at Idle though. And I have about 6deg pulled with through the box at the point OBD is showing 30. So thats really 24. But still a good bit more than others are seeing.
Ive got to go fly here in a min, and tonight is wing night at the local bar
so Im not gonna get to mess with it today. Hopefully Ill be able to play with it tomorrow.
06-04-2009, 08:03 AM
#91
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So what do the colors mean on the timing map? Thats actually where I have them, I dont notice anything about that in the manual.
On the timing...the OBD is reading around 30. Still around 10 at Idle though. And I have about 6deg pulled with through the box at the point OBD is showing 30. So thats really 24. But still a good bit more than others are seeing.
Ive got to go fly here in a min, and tonight is wing night at the local bar so Im not gonna get to mess with it today. Hopefully Ill be able to play with it tomorrow.
On the timing...the OBD is reading around 30. Still around 10 at Idle though. And I have about 6deg pulled with through the box at the point OBD is showing 30. So thats really 24. But still a good bit more than others are seeing.
Ive got to go fly here in a min, and tonight is wing night at the local bar
so Im not gonna get to mess with it today. Hopefully Ill be able to play with it tomorrow.Hmm, something is wrong with the timing for sure then. That is WAY too much timing. Unlesss you are running race gas and even then that is too much.
06-04-2009, 04:09 PM
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On the timing issue, Im not real sure how to approach that honestly. I am running 93 octane, nothing crazy. I have an new O2 sens and PCV valve (hey its a cheap one...why not) to throw at it. Ill install them and try to log a few sessions tomorrow. Maybe a few runs with both maps at zero to get a new baseline, then turn them back on and see where Im at.
Why else would the ECU put so much timing in to start with?
06-04-2009, 04:16 PM
#93
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Why would the timing map have anything to do with the injector duty cycle? My injector maps do not show any colors, but map A (timing) shows color. If that is injector limits, that really doesn't make sense to me.
On the timing issue, Im not real sure how to approach that honestly. I am running 93 octane, nothing crazy. I have an new O2 sens and PCV valve (hey its a cheap one...why not) to throw at it. Ill install them and try to log a few sessions tomorrow. Maybe a few runs with both maps at zero to get a new baseline, then turn them back on and see where Im at.
Why else would the ECU put so much timing in to start with?
On the timing issue, Im not real sure how to approach that honestly. I am running 93 octane, nothing crazy. I have an new O2 sens and PCV valve (hey its a cheap one...why not) to throw at it. Ill install them and try to log a few sessions tomorrow. Maybe a few runs with both maps at zero to get a new baseline, then turn them back on and see where Im at.
Why else would the ECU put so much timing in to start with?
06-05-2009, 01:05 PM
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Well I played with it for a few more hours today and still cant get the stupid datalogger to work. Thats really pissing me off.
I got the check valve swapped that smoothed things out a lot. I also swapped out the O2 sensor, at first I thought it seemed to help, but I still got a lean start (just once though...so it was better i guess) with the CEL. Ill have to play with the fuel map and add in the injector for idle rpm and 20in hg. That doesnt really seem like the solution, but Id like to see what it does. Since this is happening in open loop only, it seems that should richen it up. Still really odd because at WOT barrelling down the road the AFR hangs out about 11.6-11.8 (after some more tuning).
With the timing issue, I was able to resolve that it is showing 30deg just BEFORE it hits open loop. When I go to actual WOT it is about 20ish. Hard to tell exact since the datalogger isnt running. So while Im holding on for dear life I had the OBD info up on the gauge for a few runs and thats what Im seeing. So if I was seeing 20 on the gauge and had 6 pulled with the box, that seemed a bit much. I zeroed out the timing map and started from there. Of course I got the ping back, but added in more fuel to take some of it back out. I then pulled about 3deg max to smooth it a bit more. So now the timing is showing 22 or so and I have 3 pulled. Thats about on par with what others are seeing. There is still some ping below 2500rpm.
I still think there is more power left in there...the injector is only at about a max of %25 duty cycle. So I may play with it some more, but with the AFR where its at in open loop (already 11.6-11.8) Im not sure where to go with it. Thats also at a max boost of 8.3 (yes the back end was all over the place), with the stock TB gasket. Gadget just got a batch in so mine didnt go out until today. that should be good for another 1.5psi or so. That should be close to 10psi!
Im not sure its entirely necessary, but I think Ill go ahead and swap out the fuel pump tomorrow. Just as insurance (hey I paid for the thing, may as well use it).
I got the check valve swapped that smoothed things out a lot. I also swapped out the O2 sensor, at first I thought it seemed to help, but I still got a lean start (just once though...so it was better i guess) with the CEL. Ill have to play with the fuel map and add in the injector for idle rpm and 20in hg. That doesnt really seem like the solution, but Id like to see what it does. Since this is happening in open loop only, it seems that should richen it up. Still really odd because at WOT barrelling down the road the AFR hangs out about 11.6-11.8 (after some more tuning).
With the timing issue, I was able to resolve that it is showing 30deg just BEFORE it hits open loop. When I go to actual WOT it is about 20ish. Hard to tell exact since the datalogger isnt running. So while Im holding on for dear life I had the OBD info up on the gauge for a few runs and thats what Im seeing. So if I was seeing 20 on the gauge and had 6 pulled with the box, that seemed a bit much. I zeroed out the timing map and started from there. Of course I got the ping back, but added in more fuel to take some of it back out. I then pulled about 3deg max to smooth it a bit more. So now the timing is showing 22 or so and I have 3 pulled. Thats about on par with what others are seeing. There is still some ping below 2500rpm.
I still think there is more power left in there...the injector is only at about a max of %25 duty cycle. So I may play with it some more, but with the AFR where its at in open loop (already 11.6-11.8) Im not sure where to go with it. Thats also at a max boost of 8.3 (yes the back end was all over the place), with the stock TB gasket. Gadget just got a batch in so mine didnt go out until today. that should be good for another 1.5psi or so. That should be close to 10psi!
Im not sure its entirely necessary, but I think Ill go ahead and swap out the fuel pump tomorrow. Just as insurance (hey I paid for the thing, may as well use it).
06-05-2009, 03:00 PM
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TA, I decided to read through your post again. Looks like you were having some similiar issues. So I decided to look around again for fuel or vac leaks. I do notice a SLIGHT fuel smell. Its really pretty tiny though and only with the hood open. I dont notice it in the truck.
I was able to hear a slight hissing from the back of the SC. Is this where you put rtv?
its coming from the unpainted area near the main SC body. Im going to get some rtv and see what happens. Its pretty small and my problems arent near as bad right now as it seems yours were. But that vac leak cant be right
Possibly when its cold there is enough of a leak to cause the cold start AFR issue. Once it heats up and things expand just enough to seal it up pretty well and no more afr problems?
I was able to hear a slight hissing from the back of the SC. Is this where you put rtv?
its coming from the unpainted area near the main SC body. Im going to get some rtv and see what happens. Its pretty small and my problems arent near as bad right now as it seems yours were. But that vac leak cant be right
Possibly when its cold there is enough of a leak to cause the cold start AFR issue. Once it heats up and things expand just enough to seal it up pretty well and no more afr problems?
Last edited by skrassow; 06-05-2009 at 03:02 PM.
06-05-2009, 04:00 PM
#96
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Well I played with it for a few more hours today and still cant get the stupid datalogger to work. Thats really pissing me off.
I got the check valve swapped that smoothed things out a lot. I also swapped out the O2 sensor, at first I thought it seemed to help, but I still got a lean start (just once though...so it was better i guess) with the CEL. Ill have to play with the fuel map and add in the injector for idle rpm and 20in hg. That doesnt really seem like the solution, but Id like to see what it does. Since this is happening in open loop only, it seems that should richen it up. Still really odd because at WOT barrelling down the road the AFR hangs out about 11.6-11.8 (after some more tuning).
With the timing issue, I was able to resolve that it is showing 30deg just BEFORE it hits open loop. When I go to actual WOT it is about 20ish. Hard to tell exact since the datalogger isnt running. So while Im holding on for dear life I had the OBD info up on the gauge for a few runs and thats what Im seeing. So if I was seeing 20 on the gauge and had 6 pulled with the box, that seemed a bit much. I zeroed out the timing map and started from there. Of course I got the ping back, but added in more fuel to take some of it back out. I then pulled about 3deg max to smooth it a bit more. So now the timing is showing 22 or so and I have 3 pulled. Thats about on par with what others are seeing. There is still some ping below 2500rpm.
I still think there is more power left in there...the injector is only at about a max of %25 duty cycle. So I may play with it some more, but with the AFR where its at in open loop (already 11.6-11.8) Im not sure where to go with it. Thats also at a max boost of 8.3 (yes the back end was all over the place), with the stock TB gasket. Gadget just got a batch in so mine didnt go out until today. that should be good for another 1.5psi or so. That should be close to 10psi!
Im not sure its entirely necessary, but I think Ill go ahead and swap out the fuel pump tomorrow. Just as insurance (hey I paid for the thing, may as well use it).
I got the check valve swapped that smoothed things out a lot. I also swapped out the O2 sensor, at first I thought it seemed to help, but I still got a lean start (just once though...so it was better i guess) with the CEL. Ill have to play with the fuel map and add in the injector for idle rpm and 20in hg. That doesnt really seem like the solution, but Id like to see what it does. Since this is happening in open loop only, it seems that should richen it up. Still really odd because at WOT barrelling down the road the AFR hangs out about 11.6-11.8 (after some more tuning).
With the timing issue, I was able to resolve that it is showing 30deg just BEFORE it hits open loop. When I go to actual WOT it is about 20ish. Hard to tell exact since the datalogger isnt running. So while Im holding on for dear life I had the OBD info up on the gauge for a few runs and thats what Im seeing. So if I was seeing 20 on the gauge and had 6 pulled with the box, that seemed a bit much. I zeroed out the timing map and started from there. Of course I got the ping back, but added in more fuel to take some of it back out. I then pulled about 3deg max to smooth it a bit more. So now the timing is showing 22 or so and I have 3 pulled. Thats about on par with what others are seeing. There is still some ping below 2500rpm.
I still think there is more power left in there...the injector is only at about a max of %25 duty cycle. So I may play with it some more, but with the AFR where its at in open loop (already 11.6-11.8) Im not sure where to go with it. Thats also at a max boost of 8.3 (yes the back end was all over the place), with the stock TB gasket. Gadget just got a batch in so mine didnt go out until today. that should be good for another 1.5psi or so. That should be close to 10psi!
Im not sure its entirely necessary, but I think Ill go ahead and swap out the fuel pump tomorrow. Just as insurance (hey I paid for the thing, may as well use it).
Also, get that ping taken care of that is what kills motors, not power. First reset your ECU (reset it anytime you make a significant change), then get that timing so that it shows 20 degrees but is really about 14 - 15.
Tuning takes time, but taking the time now will ensure a long lasting well running engine.
TA, I decided to read through your post again. Looks like you were having some similiar issues. So I decided to look around again for fuel or vac leaks. I do notice a SLIGHT fuel smell. Its really pretty tiny though and only with the hood open. I dont notice it in the truck.
I was able to hear a slight hissing from the back of the SC. Is this where you put rtv?
its coming from the unpainted area near the main SC body. Im going to get some rtv and see what happens. Its pretty small and my problems arent near as bad right now as it seems yours were. But that vac leak cant be right Possibly when its cold there is enough of a leak to cause the cold start AFR issue. Once it heats up and things expand just enough to seal it up pretty well and no more afr problems?
I was able to hear a slight hissing from the back of the SC. Is this where you put rtv?
its coming from the unpainted area near the main SC body. Im going to get some rtv and see what happens. Its pretty small and my problems arent near as bad right now as it seems yours were. But that vac leak cant be right
Possibly when its cold there is enough of a leak to cause the cold start AFR issue. Once it heats up and things expand just enough to seal it up pretty well and no more afr problems?
06-05-2009, 07:51 PM
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All you care about is keeping the AFR's at 11.8. Some trucks need more fule then others. Don't worry about anything except that.
Also, get that ping taken care of that is what kills motors, not power. First reset your ECU (reset it anytime you make a significant change), then get that timing so that it shows 20 degrees but is really about 14 - 15.
Tuning takes time, but taking the time now will ensure a long lasting well running engine.
Yes, that is where i had the leak, i think i have pictures in the thread. Seemed ot help a little when i put RTV on that, but honestly don't do it. it was a PAIN to get that sucker out. The o-ring will get caught intside the SC and then to even re-mount it you have to basically ruin the o-ring. If anything just put some RTV on the outside but don't take it apart like i did.
Also, get that ping taken care of that is what kills motors, not power. First reset your ECU (reset it anytime you make a significant change), then get that timing so that it shows 20 degrees but is really about 14 - 15.
Tuning takes time, but taking the time now will ensure a long lasting well running engine.
Yes, that is where i had the leak, i think i have pictures in the thread. Seemed ot help a little when i put RTV on that, but honestly don't do it. it was a PAIN to get that sucker out. The o-ring will get caught intside the SC and then to even re-mount it you have to basically ruin the o-ring. If anything just put some RTV on the outside but don't take it apart like i did.
) Closed loop while drving hunts around a bit but seems to stay pretty close to 14.7...+/- .3 or .4. So that leaves me with the pinging and the cold start lean condition. As I try and tune out the ping with timing...can I expect to need to adjust fuel? Meaning as I retard timing, will I need to add fuel...or any combination of that?
06-05-2009, 08:05 PM
#98
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Yeah I wasnt going to take it apart. I just put a good bead on the outside. On the AFR, I think i am pretty good on the open loop, at least at WOT. Still a bit confused on the cold start. But WOT is 11.6-11.8. That of course is just using the eyeball method. But its a digital gauge...so its pretty easy to see while holding on for dear life (kinda scary in a lifted truck) Closed loop while drving hunts around a bit but seems to stay pretty close to 14.7...+/- .3 or .4. So that leaves me with the pinging and the cold start lean condition. As I try and tune out the ping with timing...can I expect to need to adjust fuel? Meaning as I retard timing, will I need to add fuel...or any combination of that?
) Closed loop while drving hunts around a bit but seems to stay pretty close to 14.7...+/- .3 or .4. So that leaves me with the pinging and the cold start lean condition. As I try and tune out the ping with timing...can I expect to need to adjust fuel? Meaning as I retard timing, will I need to add fuel...or any combination of that?Your closed loop should be a lot richer then that, your O2 sensor calibrator is not working if it doesn't richen up when in boost and still in closed loop.
Your AFR's should drop to at least 13 ANYTIME you are in boost.
06-05-2009, 08:27 PM
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Yeah, I thought it should be lower in boost. But frankly, without datalgging its kind of hard to tell. Trying to get into boost and watch the AFR while making sure I dont go into open loop is a bit tricky. I suspect it may be doing just that (dropping to 13ish in closed loop boost) as the AFR drop pretty easy. I just cant really verify it. Ill have to try it a few more times and keep an eye on it.
Its obvious the O2 sensor cal is doing something. if you recall things were really erratic witch turned out to be a kinked boost line to the O2 sens calibrator. One thoght that did cross my mind is that perhaps I have the wrong one (If I verify that the AFR is not dropping properly). When I spoke with URD I think we came to the conclusion that being a 99 with only one cat then it uses the older style sensor. So as long as thats all correct, then im sure its working. When I get some better idea of what its doing Ill take a look at the map on the O2 sens calibrator (ugh, that means taking that trim panel apart....again! that sucker is $95 if i have to replace it!)
Its obvious the O2 sensor cal is doing something. if you recall things were really erratic witch turned out to be a kinked boost line to the O2 sens calibrator. One thoght that did cross my mind is that perhaps I have the wrong one (If I verify that the AFR is not dropping properly). When I spoke with URD I think we came to the conclusion that being a 99 with only one cat then it uses the older style sensor. So as long as thats all correct, then im sure its working. When I get some better idea of what its doing Ill take a look at the map on the O2 sens calibrator (ugh, that means taking that trim panel apart....again! that sucker is $95 if i have to replace it!)
06-06-2009, 06:44 AM
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OK, So Im going to go ahead and swap out the fuel pump and put a new filter in today. It says to disconnect the EFI circuit relay, start the engine and let it die to depressurize the fuel sys. I disconnected the relay, but it wont even start at all. Will just cranking it a few times be enough to depress the system? Anyone else done this?
