skrassow

picture is worth a thousand words

After staring at it a while longer I have them all hooked up the way I THINK they should be. This is after staring at what I have to work with and at how they were hooked up previously. As long as the SC doent DRASTICALLY change the layout of things, then I should be close. So did you use any T fitting besides off the boost port for the URD box and boost gauge?

skrassow

I decided to move on to the rest of the electrical while I wait on answers from gadget and pics from TA. So I got the URD boxes soldered in and the PLX stuff all hooked up. I was a bit worried at first, although the PLX stuff came on and the rest of my gauges/lights/ etc seemed normal, when I turned the key back off, the check engine light, airbag, and oil light stayed on! I thought for sure I screwed something up...turns out I forgot that the OBD plug in the engine bay was still not grounded. So after plugging that back in, all the electrical SEEMS to be good for now.

So after running all the wires and realizing the stupid cable on the gauge is too short to make it to the rear of the cab, I picked up what I thought would work as an extension cable(looks like a SVGA cable), but it did not work. I tried three different ones with no success and found out from PLX that it cant be extended Why the heck would you make something that way! So i had to relocate it to underneath the drivers seat

The URD PCU sits under the pass side

With the o2 sens behind the kick panel (just happened to be a threded hole there to mount it with Its an M6 x 1.0 pitch)

My homemade wiring harness extensions...its at least close

And the remote for the PLX gauge and aux input for my stereo

The PLX can diplay up to 4 sensors in real time. You can select from any OBD sensor or and of the PLX sensors. Ill have AFR and boost for sure. Im not exactly sure what the OBD has the ability to display in this truck so Ill have to wait till its back together. Im hoping to get water temp and oil press, but Im not sure if the OBD has actual values for these or is just a limit switch (ie, above limit or below limit, but has no idea what the actual value is). I want to wait and see what ability it has and then add sensors as necessary. For data logging i can use RPM, AFR, throttle position, and speed. Not too sure on the last two, im still reading up on the tuning bit to see what the most important parameters to have are. AFR and RPM I know are a must though.






digital format display

graphing display

4 sensors in digital


Hopefully Ill be up and running by the weekend and I can start playing with the tuning. Just gotta figure out the vacuum hoses for sure first!

Texas_Ace

I REALLY like that gauge! i will have to look into that for my next build of an OBDII car. How much that cost if you don't mind?

And here are some quick pictures of my vacume lines, carful thought is what i used to hook them up, nothing too crazy with them, and worse that can happen if you mix them up is a vacume/boost leak.

okie81

You still got the silencer on yours TA? I thought that thing would be long gone by now.

The line going into the intake elbow, is that the one that goes down to the power steering? IIRC, I capped that line on my s/c, but it's a 2nd gen. If you do the ISR mod at any point, I believe you have to account for that line with the 1st gen s/c.

And yes, I'm really digging that gauge too...

Texas_Ace

Yeah it is still there, on the dyno i found that the short ram intake i was using actually made my lose power for some reason, and i gained the power with the stock intake.

So i switched back and have not got around ot taking the ISR out yet, all my time has been spent on the MR2 as of late. Got a few things the truck needs to have done but just have not got around to them.

skrassow

The PLX stuff can be found here; plxdevices.com. You can find SLIGHTLY better prices on ebay for some of the stuff. If you good with making your own pod, or modifying it at least, they also have a 60mm gauge that has an easier read out for all this stuff. It seems a bit pricey, but consider that its also a code reader, and with a $60 cable its also a datalogger. Somehow you can make and upload your own wallpaper into it, but I havnt got that far yet!

TA, I think Im almost there on the vac lines. I have it pretty close anyway. PCV valvle, crank case breather, and boost port are right for sure.

- I have the fast Idle going to the same location, but I dont have a T in it. Im now seeing that this is supposed to T off into the 4x4 supply tank, but I cant seem to find that anywhere?

-In the second picture, I see the line coming off the SC going to the evap canister. I have that, but the diagram shows a bypass valve being Teed into this. I dont see that T in you pictures and I dont know where this bypass valve is? So do you actually have a T in there?

-Also, in the 3rd pic along the firewall you have something Teed into what I thought were heater lines (with the blue loom around it)? Surely that has nothing to do with the SC setup.

Of course your 4runner may have different options. Mine is a 99 SR5, no locker, manual hubs, etc etc. Of course it looks like you have a WHOLE MESS of electrical crap on the pass side firewall...what the heck is that man!?


So I kind of got off topic a bit there.

-T off fast idel valve into 4wd supply, where is it?
-bypass valve into evap can line...what/where is bypass valve?

Texas_Ace

The 4x4 supply line is near the battery, though I think i didn't have ot T off it, i just hooked up to it.

The bypass valve is that thing on the back of the SC, it connects to the SC itself, you don't have to T it in.

That T in the heater lines you see is the factory rear seat heater on my limited model. Don't worry about that.

All those wires ont eh passanger side go to my underbody lights (rock lights/show-off look cool lights lol), wiring is actually pretty neat and tidy, just takes up space. Needless to say, don't worry about it, i have more eletrical stuff on my truck (and had even more) then most people have on all there cars combined! lol

skrassow

WOOHOO!!! It runs!!!! It smells a little rich, but Im sure a bit of tuning will set that right. I did find out that the check valve I was using wasnt going to work. When I first fired it up, it would run but idle would get down to 500 or less, the computer would try and compensate, it would rev up, then repeat and eventually sputter and die. Definate vacuum leak. I instantly looked to the IAC line to see that the check valve was pulling out. I had to pull off the TB to get at it and also noticed that the TB gasket had torn pretty bad. Making it useless. So I pulled out the check valve (temporary), and put the stock gasket back on, and it runs fine (although it smells a bit rich). So now I need to get a new gasket and a check valve. It also has a stutter right when you give it gas

TA, Turns out I have everything right minus the 4WD supply tank. Im still looking for that one. When you say you did not have to T into it I assume you mean at the supply tank? I do see one line capped off. Its located on the drivers side inner fender. It looks like it disappears into the Tcase. If its capped now Im just not understanding why we are adding vacuum to it?



BTW, I figured all that elec was for something else. Just curious...thats a lot of wiring in there!

Texas_Ace

Make sure you get a correct gasket for the TB, there is a differnt one you need with the SC. You can get it from URD.

Make sure you have all the vacume leaks taken care of and it is running good before you really hammer it. Don't want it to go lean before tuning and something go boom.

That does look like the correct line for the 4x4 but if it was already capped, then just leave it alone and see if everything still works. If so then forget it.

skrassow

I took it for a spin around the block last night and everything seems OK. I know there are a few small issues however. The stutter that I noted earlier is gone. And as I think about it I seem to remember it doing this after it has sat for a week or more and is still cold. Once its warmed up and if driven regularly it goes away, so I believe that is a separate and minor issue.

The engine Idles well just above 700rpm, So that seems right on. and after about 10 min of driving the OBD shows water temp stable at about 190.

I did plug in the TRD boost gauge I have temprarily to see what it is doing. While at idle I am shoing a vacuum of about 15 in hg. revving the engine to about 3k will bring it up to about 10, but no boost. Having never had a FI vehicle Im not sure what I should see, but something tells me there should be boost at some point? Im not sure if it would change under load, but I may take it for another short test drive and see what it does there. PLacing my finger over the hose confirms there is vacuum at that line, at least in idle (hard to put your finger on it while driving!). So what do you guys see on the boost gauge in idle and no load?

Texas_Ace

Great! Glad it is working.

You do have some issues. Your vacume should be ~-20hg So you DO have a vacume leak someplace.

As for boost, with this style of SC boost is in direct relation to how much you press down on the gas pedal. Blip the gas and you should see it go from vacume to boost.

At idle you should be able to pretty much hit full boost if you push the pedal to the floor. You will gain a little when actually driving but only a PSI or 2.

Find that vacume leak, it could be your TB gasket. Get the right one, the stock one also takes ~1.5psi of boost away.

Then once everything is running fine start giving it some boost and see what your AFR's do. If they go leaner then 12.8 or so let off and start tuning. But that is another step, we will get into that when you are ready.

First get all the little bugs worked out.

okie81

Like TA said, boost at idle should floor the needle (or in your case the display) to below 20hg.
Looks like you have a different pulley on yours but with a stock (2.3) pulley you should be around:
15hg cruising around 40-45
10hg cruising around 65-70
6-7 psi wide open

Aside from other factors, these are just general ranges...

skrassow

Well I played around with the interconnects I was using to connect the hard plastic boost line into the T fittings. Seems there was a small leak in one of them. After playing with that I am right at 20in hg at Idle. I have yet to really floor it, but driving around with no more than about %65 throttle I was able to see boost of around 5-6. This is just on the TRD gauge so it is hard to read exact, especially while its sitting in the cup holder and Im going down the road

I also got the AFR guage running, and at Idle it looks like I am mid 10's! That was esily confirmed by a CEL lean code. That PLX is handy, clear it out... code doesnt come back...drive home So I am comfortable that its time to start tuning. Im gonna go back and read all the guides again and try to get started on it this weekend.

Also, if anyone is trying to do this with a used unit...the IAC check valve uses a new part #. That was the difficulty in finding it. I dont remember the new #, when it gets here I can post it if anyone is looking for it.

Oh yeah, gasket is on the way from URD too...ordered two this time!

Texas_Ace

10's at idle? somthing is bad wrong if that is the case. this is even after it warming up?

Should read right at 14.7 at idle/normal driving. And ~11.8 at WOT (well after tuning that is)

skrassow

Well I thought that seemed pretty bad as well. But Im not too sure what to make of it right now. Like I said, the truck runs smooth and temps are OK. I got the CEL lean code (P0171) just the once. It DEFINITELY has the ping issue, and I suspect is not making anywhere near the power it should (hard to compare when I havnt driven a properly tuned SC truck, and I didnt run mine hard yet. But it doesnt seem that much more than stock). I dont know of anyway to determine the accuracy of the AFR guage, but Im going to assume its OK. At this point Ill just have to plug in the laptop and see whats going on. From memory I was seeing around 30 of timing, long term fuel trim wasin the mid 30's i believe. Thats really all I remember off the top of my head.

Texas_Ace

timing was 30? that is way off.

It sounds like for some reason it is running real rich. and the gauge backs that up.

Now why it is running rich, do you have the 7th injector turned on at all? Try zeroing the WHOLE URD fuel map (leave the timing map for now).

See what that does.

skrassow

I have not messed with the injector at all. I cant find my stinkind serial to USB cable Looks like Ill be making ANOTHER run to radio shack. Thing that kills me is I know I bought one the other day

skrassow

Well I need to modify my previous statement. Timing at idle is +7-9. Around 30 at 2500ish rpm. Should have verified before I spoke...er wrote...whatever. I agree the guage and my nose telling me its rich, but why the CEL lean code? P0171...Unless Im worse with #'s than I though and that was really a 2 on the end (which would be a rich code)

skrassow

And just to add to the confusion...Its not 10 AFR, its 1.08 "lambda". 1.0 is supposedly ideal. Oddly, when it is set for a gas engine (gives me actual AFR readings) it reads REAL lean. That explains the ping and the CEL, but now there is some confusion with the whole lambda issue.


BTW, if your looking into the PLX stuff...their documentation, manuals and such...is TERRIBLE. I have emailed them several times now, and the way they tell me to set it up is not even close to what the manual says. In fact the manual wasnt even close to right!

Texas_Ace

Ah, that makes more sence, running a little lean is more normal.

That should be fixed when you fix the vacume leak.