WRITEUP: The "Seat Knob" mod

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 10:34 AM

Hi folks,

Been awhile since I wrote something

In anycase, here's a quick and dirty mod that you can put together to make removing your passenger seats much faster and without using tools. And it looks pretty stock to boot! For those of you who camp and sleep in the back of your 4runners, this mod's for you. Or also, if you've ever been to Home Depot and tried to fit in something longer than 64 inches in the back, this mod will definitely be a life safer.

Enough of my usual babble, here's the link: http://www.4runners.org/articles/seatknobs

Bob

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naksukow · 07-29-2005, 10:43 AM

Great idea. Cheap too.

calrockx · 07-29-2005, 11:19 AM

Brilliant.

I'm doing this...once Bob or someone works it out a bit more.

FirstToy · 07-29-2005, 11:25 AM

Man, that is cool. I might do that too.
FYI, you can buy shorter knobs (hehe) with all different shaped knobs (haha) at OSH or Rockler.

rwmorrisonjr · 07-29-2005, 11:32 AM

Cool idea, I'll have to try this.

4RUNR · 07-29-2005, 11:41 AM

Quote:

One thing you may not like is that you won't be able to put the covers back on. But to me, its not noticeable at all and function, in this case, is more important than form.

Doesn't look like you can lift up the seat either without removing it first and I keep a....

...emergency cell phone, GPS, socket set and ratchet, metric and that other type of hex key set, jumper cables, pliers, electric tape, screw driver with a bit set, tire plug kit, 12v test light, etc... in the compartment under the seat.

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RUNR

Doesn't look like you can lift up the seat either without removing it first and I keep a....

...emergency cell phone, GPS, socket set and ratchet, metric and that other type of hex key set, jumper cables, pliers, electric tape, screw driver with a bit set, tire plug kit, 12v test light, etc... in the compartment under the seat.

yup, you are right. perhaps an L-head (smaller) knob could be used instead.

despite that, the seat knobs come off really easy

bob

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 01:04 PM

...alrighty, yours truly didn't think about this as thoroughly as he could have (thanks 4Runr). Back to the drawing board! I've found a solution and I'll fill you guys in once it arrives.

Bob

4RUNR · 07-29-2005, 01:14 PM

This idea will even get a bigger ghetto mod award: but I see taking a regular bolt, bending into an L at the right place, and JB-Welding just one nut in place.

Like this:

And some plastic sleeve over the handle part.

EDIT: Or even better, I know there is some kind of goo selling in hardware stores that you can dip say pliers’s handles in and when it dries it forms a thick and very sturdy cover which works as the grip. Dipping the contraption in that stuff up to and including the nut would make it look almost professional

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 01:35 PM

4Runr:

McMaster sells a bolt w/ a wing nut head with wings that are only 30mm in width. The rectangular hole that the bolt fits through is 22mm wide and 34mm high. Therefore, if you tighten down the wingnut and make sure its vertical rather than perpendicular, then you presumably can lower the seat the normal way and if you need the extra space, you can still remove the lower seat by unscrewing the wing nut screw.

...but these special M8 50mm wingnut screws are $6.56 EACH

I'm buying them right now

Bob

4RUNR · 07-29-2005, 02:10 PM

Yup, I see them, part #92625A533.

I would be afraid of this:

Not clearing at the top. On the bottom it should be able to swing below and under the wing, even if it was much longer. But if it doesn't stick out too far when tightened down, it might make it, but very close.

EDIT: Looking the picture made me realize, why not just buy a wing-nut and a bolt and glue them together? You could make them for probably $1.50 from local hardware.

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RUNR

Yup, I see them, part #92625A533.

I would be afraid of this:

Not clearing at the top. On the bottom it should be able to swing below and under the wing, even if it was much longer. But if it doesn't stick out too far when tightened down, it might make it, but very close.

EDIT: Looking the picture made me realize, why not just buy a wing-nut and a bolt and glue them together? You could make them for probably $1.50 from local hardware.

yeah, i thought about that too. if i can find a similar one tonight at the hardware store, i'll give it a go.

about jb welding a wing nut on: good idea. i'll see if i can pick up a few and see what can be done. the only prob though, is that the wing nut needs to be sufficiently large enough to be easily gripped and allow good turning motion. the little ones most people typically use will be murder on the fingers.

bob

FirstToy · 07-29-2005, 02:27 PM

flipping thru the rockler catalog, i see a couple knob-screws that could work fine, narrower and lower profile.
I used these knob-screws to hold down my CO2 mount on my old cargo box- got them at OSH. They might work and allow you to put the cover back on as well.

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 02:35 PM

james,

i didnt see any metric knobs in the rockler catalog. they have to fit an M8 socket head screw. can you point me in the right direction if they exist on the rockler site?

bob

FirstToy · 07-29-2005, 03:27 PM

I'll look in the catalog tonite. OSH also has a selection of these knobs, although I'm not sure if they had metric

Bob_98SR5 · 07-29-2005, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FirstToy

I'll look in the catalog tonite. OSH also has a selection of these knobs, although I'm not sure if they had metric

FT,

i checked out OSH on fair oaks and they only had very short screws w/ the knobs attached. thats why i bought at mcmasters

bob

FirstToy · 07-29-2005, 08:02 PM

yeah looks like rockler doesnt have any metric

Oh well, I'll keep an eye out for you

Bob_98SR5 · 08-04-2005, 12:10 AM

Late nite success!

I received the wing nut bolts this afternoon and I just gave it a go around midnite (yes, i was that eager to try it out

).

Testing it out w/ the same number of washers as the original mod, it stuck out too far and it also did not allow the bottom seat to flip up. But i could tell that removing a few washers might work---and it did. It could be tightened down with less washers than the original seat knob---exactly 5 less (or a total of 14). Because of the smaller number of washers used, this means that a shorter wing nut bolt could also be used. I purchased a 50mm length WNB and i am guessing that a 40mm WNB could be used safely:

Wing Nut "C" (40mm length)
Part #92625A529
$5.73 each

Here's a pic of the unfinished seat knob:

As 4Runr correctly pointed out, the seat was not able to lower with my original idea. However using this wingnut bolt, not you can you easily and completely remove the seats without tools, but also flip up the seats as normal.

One minor caveat: Because the total width of the hinged seat's rectangular-shaped opening is 34mm x 22mm (l x w), you have to make sure that the final, tightened down position of the wingnut's wings are either completely vertical or diagonal. If they are horizontal, the seat won't be able to flip up.

Thanks for everyone's feedback. And for those of you guys headed to Pismo this weekend, I'll bring both for those of you interested in checking this mod out in person.

Bob

sschaefer3 · 08-04-2005, 05:44 AM

How big are those washers? Because you could TIG weld on a short section of tube to the bottom of the wing.

I have OD 3/4", ID 1/2" tube here now for sleeveing 1/2" or M12 bolts.

One welded piece would be slick right? Has to be TIG because MIG would booger the thing up.

I can TIG but don't have a TIG machine, but I know who does.............

I see they are 1/4" washers, I'll look into it.

Bob_98SR5 · 08-04-2005, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sschaefer3

How big are those washers? Because you could TIG weld on a short section of tube to the bottom of the wing.

I have OD 3/4", ID 1/2" tube here now for sleeveing 1/2" or M12 bolts.

One welded piece would be slick right? Has to be TIG because MIG would booger the thing up.

I can TIG but don't have a TIG machine, but I know who does.............

I see they are 1/4" washers, I'll look into it.

Steve,

Yeah like I wrote in the writeup, if i had a welder and some other material other than washer's, that would be better and cleaner looking than a stack of JB welded washers

However, function over form since I dont have the right equipment. And since most people don't either, a good "home brew" solution like this is is very practical for the members

The total height of the stacked washers is 13/16" or 20.6mm. The diameter of the washer is 3/4" or 19mm

Bob

sschaefer3 · 08-04-2005, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5

Steve,

Yeah like I wrote in the writeup, if i had a welder and some other material other than washer's, that would be better and cleaner looking than a stack of JB welded washers

However, function over form since I dont have the right equipment. And since most people don't either, a good "home brew" solution like this is is very practical for the members

The total height of the stacked washers is 13/16" or 20.6mm. The diameter of the washer is 3/4" or 19mm

Bob

Cool, I'll have to tinker with some TIG welded ones, since I have the tube onhand already.

See you tomorrow !!!

sschaefer3 · 09-12-2005, 10:56 AM

Another Schaefer/Stubbs creation. I'm adding these into the Sonoran Steel Store if anyone wants any. We don't expect to sell alot but the more you offer the better.

Tacoma Dude · 09-12-2005, 11:05 AM

Whoa, that's pretty nice

I've been taking my seats out more often now that I have a dog. I'll have to get these once I figure out where to put my seats when I'm not using them.

Bob_98SR5 · 09-12-2005, 11:30 AM

Steve,

You rock

Look's great. Nice when you have the right tools and knowledge. Steve, what does the other side of the screws look like? Near the threaded end? Hopefully its nice and flat

...I will now send my patent attorney after you

Expect a call from Cheatum and Schiester LLC

Bob

4RUNR · 09-12-2005, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sschaefer3

Another Schaefer/Stubbs creation.

Looks weak! You need to CNC that from a solid block.

07-29-2005, 10:43 AM	#2 (permalink)
naksukow Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Big Bear or Tahoe Posts: 371	Great idea. Cheap too. __________________ 2001 4Runner 3.4V-6 SR5 4x4 \| 18x,xxx miles \| Stubbs SKO sliders \| Bud Built front skid \| Trail Carnage belly skid \| Shrockworks front \| Rockware rear \| Goodyear Duratracs \| SS 1.2 \| Detroit Locker rear \| Truetrac front \| 4.88s 2008 FJC TT SE 6 SPEED

07-29-2005, 11:19 AM	#3 (permalink)
calrockx Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Santa Clarita, California Posts: 4,740	Brilliant. I'm doing this...once Bob or someone works it out a bit more. __________________ [2002 4Runner 4WD] Last edited by calrockx; 07-29-2005 at 01:25 PM.

07-29-2005, 11:32 AM	#5 (permalink)
rwmorrisonjr Contributing Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Home: Aurora, CO; Work: The People's Republic of Denver Posts: 1,990	Cool idea, I'll have to try this. __________________ DD: 2006 Jeep Commander Sport 4.7l Trail rig: 1984 BII, 2.8, MSD 6A & Blaster 2 coil, Holley 2300, C5, OEM 1350, 7.5 & D28 with 4.56s, 33x12.50 BFG AT KOs on 15x8 black steelies, new "jeep" seats. Ugly but it runs and its paid for! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "An armed society is a polite society. Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life."- Robert A. Heinlein

07-29-2005, 01:14 PM	#9 (permalink)
4RUNR Guest Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Pole Posts: 1,619	This idea will even get a bigger ghetto mod award: but I see taking a regular bolt, bending into an L at the right place, and JB-Welding just one nut in place. Like this: And some plastic sleeve over the handle part. EDIT: Or even better, I know there is some kind of goo selling in hardware stores that you can dip say pliers’s handles in and when it dries it forms a thick and very sturdy cover which works as the grip. Dipping the contraption in that stuff up to and including the nut would make it look almost professional Last edited by 4RUNR; 07-29-2005 at 01:21 PM.

07-29-2005, 02:10 PM	#11 (permalink)
4RUNR Guest Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Pole Posts: 1,619	Yup, I see them, part #92625A533. I would be afraid of this: Not clearing at the top. On the bottom it should be able to swing below and under the wing, even if it was much longer. But if it doesn't stick out too far when tightened down, it might make it, but very close. EDIT: Looking the picture made me realize, why not just buy a wing-nut and a bolt and glue them together? You could make them for probably $1.50 from local hardware. Last edited by 4RUNR; 07-29-2005 at 02:13 PM.

07-29-2005, 01:04 PM	#8 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	...alrighty, yours truly didn't think about this as thoroughly as he could have (thanks 4Runr). Back to the drawing board! I've found a solution and I'll fill you guys in once it arrives. Bob

07-29-2005, 01:35 PM	#10 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	4Runr: McMaster sells a bolt w/ a wing nut head with wings that are only 30mm in width. The rectangular hole that the bolt fits through is 22mm wide and 34mm high. Therefore, if you tighten down the wingnut and make sure its vertical rather than perpendicular, then you presumably can lower the seat the normal way and if you need the extra space, you can still remove the lower seat by unscrewing the wing nut screw. ...but these special M8 50mm wingnut screws are $6.56 EACH I'm buying them right now Bob

07-29-2005, 02:35 PM	#14 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	james, i didnt see any metric knobs in the rockler catalog. they have to fit an M8 socket head screw. can you point me in the right direction if they exist on the rockler site? bob

08-04-2005, 12:10 AM	#18 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	Late nite success! I received the wing nut bolts this afternoon and I just gave it a go around midnite (yes, i was that eager to try it out ). Testing it out w/ the same number of washers as the original mod, it stuck out too far and it also did not allow the bottom seat to flip up. But i could tell that removing a few washers might work---and it did. It could be tightened down with less washers than the original seat knob---exactly 5 less (or a total of 14). Because of the smaller number of washers used, this means that a shorter wing nut bolt could also be used. I purchased a 50mm length WNB and i am guessing that a 40mm WNB could be used safely: Wing Nut "C" (40mm length) Part #92625A529 $5.73 each Here's a pic of the unfinished seat knob: As 4Runr correctly pointed out, the seat was not able to lower with my original idea. However using this wingnut bolt, not you can you easily and completely remove the seats without tools, but also flip up the seats as normal. One minor caveat: Because the total width of the hinged seat's rectangular-shaped opening is 34mm x 22mm (l x w), you have to make sure that the final, tightened down position of the wingnut's wings are either completely vertical or diagonal. If they are horizontal, the seat won't be able to flip up. Thanks for everyone's feedback. And for those of you guys headed to Pismo this weekend, I'll bring both for those of you interested in checking this mod out in person. Bob

08-04-2005, 05:44 AM	#19 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,516	How big are those washers? Because you could TIG weld on a short section of tube to the bottom of the wing. I have OD 3/4", ID 1/2" tube here now for sleeveing 1/2" or M12 bolts. One welded piece would be slick right? Has to be TIG because MIG would booger the thing up. I can TIG but don't have a TIG machine, but I know who does............. I see they are 1/4" washers, I'll look into it. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer Last edited by sschaefer3; 08-04-2005 at 05:48 AM.

09-12-2005, 10:56 AM	#22 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,516	Another Schaefer/Stubbs creation. I'm adding these into the Sonoran Steel Store if anyone wants any. We don't expect to sell alot but the more you offer the better. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * TOYTEC Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

09-12-2005, 11:05 AM	#23 (permalink)
Tacoma Dude Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 8,359	Whoa, that's pretty nice I've been taking my seats out more often now that I have a dog. I'll have to get these once I figure out where to put my seats when I'm not using them. __________________ Peter! 2002 Tacoma 1986 4Runner

09-12-2005, 11:30 AM	#24 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	Steve, You rock Look's great. Nice when you have the right tools and knowledge. Steve, what does the other side of the screws look like? Near the threaded end? Hopefully its nice and flat ...I will now send my patent attorney after you Expect a call from Cheatum and Schiester LLC Bob Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 09-12-2005 at 11:36 AM.

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