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WRITEUP: The "Seat Knob" mod

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Old 07-29-2005, 10:34 AM
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WRITEUP: The "Seat Knob" mod

Hi folks,

Been awhile since I wrote something In anycase, here's a quick and dirty mod that you can put together to make removing your passenger seats much faster and without using tools. And it looks pretty stock to boot! For those of you who camp and sleep in the back of your 4runners, this mod's for you. Or also, if you've ever been to Home Depot and tried to fit in something longer than 64 inches in the back, this mod will definitely be a life safer.



Enough of my usual babble, here's the link: http://www.4runners.org/articles/seatknobs

Bob
Old 07-29-2005, 10:43 AM
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Great idea. Cheap too.
Old 07-29-2005, 11:19 AM
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Brilliant.

I'm doing this...once Bob or someone works it out a bit more.

Last edited by calrockx; 07-29-2005 at 01:25 PM.
Old 07-29-2005, 11:25 AM
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Man, that is cool. I might do that too.
FYI, you can buy shorter knobs (hehe) with all different shaped knobs (haha) at OSH or Rockler.
Old 07-29-2005, 11:32 AM
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Cool idea, I'll have to try this.
Old 07-29-2005, 11:41 AM
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One thing you may not like is that you won't be able to put the covers back on. But to me, its not noticeable at all and function, in this case, is more important than form.
Doesn't look like you can lift up the seat either without removing it first and I keep a....

...emergency cell phone, GPS, socket set and ratchet, metric and that other type of hex key set, jumper cables, pliers, electric tape, screw driver with a bit set, tire plug kit, 12v test light, etc... in the compartment under the seat.
Old 07-29-2005, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 4RUNR
Doesn't look like you can lift up the seat either without removing it first and I keep a....

...emergency cell phone, GPS, socket set and ratchet, metric and that other type of hex key set, jumper cables, pliers, electric tape, screw driver with a bit set, tire plug kit, 12v test light, etc... in the compartment under the seat.
yup, you are right. perhaps an L-head (smaller) knob could be used instead.

despite that, the seat knobs come off really easy

bob

Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 07-29-2005 at 11:50 AM.
Old 07-29-2005, 01:04 PM
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...alrighty, yours truly didn't think about this as thoroughly as he could have (thanks 4Runr). Back to the drawing board! I've found a solution and I'll fill you guys in once it arrives.

Bob
Old 07-29-2005, 01:14 PM
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This idea will even get a bigger ghetto mod award: but I see taking a regular bolt, bending into an L at the right place, and JB-Welding just one nut in place.

Like this:

And some plastic sleeve over the handle part.

EDIT: Or even better, I know there is some kind of goo selling in hardware stores that you can dip say pliers’s handles in and when it dries it forms a thick and very sturdy cover which works as the grip. Dipping the contraption in that stuff up to and including the nut would make it look almost professional

Last edited by 4RUNR; 07-29-2005 at 01:21 PM.
Old 07-29-2005, 01:35 PM
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4Runr:

McMaster sells a bolt w/ a wing nut head with wings that are only 30mm in width. The rectangular hole that the bolt fits through is 22mm wide and 34mm high. Therefore, if you tighten down the wingnut and make sure its vertical rather than perpendicular, then you presumably can lower the seat the normal way and if you need the extra space, you can still remove the lower seat by unscrewing the wing nut screw.

...but these special M8 50mm wingnut screws are $6.56 EACH

I'm buying them right now

Bob
Old 07-29-2005, 02:10 PM
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Yup, I see them, part #92625A533.

I would be afraid of this:



Not clearing at the top. On the bottom it should be able to swing below and under the wing, even if it was much longer. But if it doesn't stick out too far when tightened down, it might make it, but very close.

EDIT: Looking the picture made me realize, why not just buy a wing-nut and a bolt and glue them together? You could make them for probably $1.50 from local hardware.

Last edited by 4RUNR; 07-29-2005 at 02:13 PM.
Old 07-29-2005, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 4RUNR
Yup, I see them, part #92625A533.

I would be afraid of this:



Not clearing at the top. On the bottom it should be able to swing below and under the wing, even if it was much longer. But if it doesn't stick out too far when tightened down, it might make it, but very close.

EDIT: Looking the picture made me realize, why not just buy a wing-nut and a bolt and glue them together? You could make them for probably $1.50 from local hardware.
yeah, i thought about that too. if i can find a similar one tonight at the hardware store, i'll give it a go.

about jb welding a wing nut on: good idea. i'll see if i can pick up a few and see what can be done. the only prob though, is that the wing nut needs to be sufficiently large enough to be easily gripped and allow good turning motion. the little ones most people typically use will be murder on the fingers.

bob
Old 07-29-2005, 02:27 PM
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flipping thru the rockler catalog, i see a couple knob-screws that could work fine, narrower and lower profile.
I used these knob-screws to hold down my CO2 mount on my old cargo box- got them at OSH. They might work and allow you to put the cover back on as well.
Old 07-29-2005, 02:35 PM
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james,

i didnt see any metric knobs in the rockler catalog. they have to fit an M8 socket head screw. can you point me in the right direction if they exist on the rockler site?

bob
Old 07-29-2005, 03:27 PM
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I'll look in the catalog tonite. OSH also has a selection of these knobs, although I'm not sure if they had metric
Old 07-29-2005, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstToy
I'll look in the catalog tonite. OSH also has a selection of these knobs, although I'm not sure if they had metric
FT,

i checked out OSH on fair oaks and they only had very short screws w/ the knobs attached. thats why i bought at mcmasters

bob
Old 07-29-2005, 08:02 PM
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yeah looks like rockler doesnt have any metric
Oh well, I'll keep an eye out for you
Old 08-04-2005, 12:10 AM
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Late nite success!

I received the wing nut bolts this afternoon and I just gave it a go around midnite (yes, i was that eager to try it out ).

Testing it out w/ the same number of washers as the original mod, it stuck out too far and it also did not allow the bottom seat to flip up. But i could tell that removing a few washers might work---and it did. It could be tightened down with less washers than the original seat knob---exactly 5 less (or a total of 14). Because of the smaller number of washers used, this means that a shorter wing nut bolt could also be used. I purchased a 50mm length WNB and i am guessing that a 40mm WNB could be used safely:

Wing Nut "C" (40mm length)
Part #92625A529
$5.73 each

Here's a pic of the unfinished seat knob:



As 4Runr correctly pointed out, the seat was not able to lower with my original idea. However using this wingnut bolt, not you can you easily and completely remove the seats without tools, but also flip up the seats as normal.

One minor caveat: Because the total width of the hinged seat's rectangular-shaped opening is 34mm x 22mm (l x w), you have to make sure that the final, tightened down position of the wingnut's wings are either completely vertical or diagonal. If they are horizontal, the seat won't be able to flip up.

Thanks for everyone's feedback. And for those of you guys headed to Pismo this weekend, I'll bring both for those of you interested in checking this mod out in person.

Bob
Old 08-04-2005, 05:44 AM
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How big are those washers? Because you could TIG weld on a short section of tube to the bottom of the wing.

I have OD 3/4", ID 1/2" tube here now for sleeveing 1/2" or M12 bolts.

One welded piece would be slick right? Has to be TIG because MIG would booger the thing up.


I can TIG but don't have a TIG machine, but I know who does.............



I see they are 1/4" washers, I'll look into it.

Last edited by sschaefer3; 08-04-2005 at 05:48 AM.
Old 08-04-2005, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
How big are those washers? Because you could TIG weld on a short section of tube to the bottom of the wing.

I have OD 3/4", ID 1/2" tube here now for sleeveing 1/2" or M12 bolts.

One welded piece would be slick right? Has to be TIG because MIG would booger the thing up.


I can TIG but don't have a TIG machine, but I know who does.............



I see they are 1/4" washers, I'll look into it.
Steve,

Yeah like I wrote in the writeup, if i had a welder and some other material other than washer's, that would be better and cleaner looking than a stack of JB welded washers However, function over form since I dont have the right equipment. And since most people don't either, a good "home brew" solution like this is is very practical for the members

The total height of the stacked washers is 13/16" or 20.6mm. The diameter of the washer is 3/4" or 19mm

Bob

Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 08-04-2005 at 08:48 AM.


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