Tundra Brake Upgrade - PC'd my Calipers High Gloss Red

Rock Slide · 12-27-2007, 12:37 PM

Well, new brakes are finally on. My old ones have been slowly wearing out and I figured it’s best to replace everything now, then later when I encounter a problem. I also knew that when the time came to do the brake job, I’d replace the front calipers, hard lines and soft lines with new components. (Having bought this 4Runner up North, the front brakes looked 3x their age.

)

I had planned to just replacing everything with OEM stock parts, but for not much more in overall price, I decided to go with the Tundra brakes instead. I purchased the Calipers from my local Advanced Auto Parts Store. I picked up a set of Brembo Blank Rotors from Auto Parts Warehouse. The Pads & Hard Lines I purchased from my local dealer. Last, but not least, I purchased a set of Goodridge SS front braided brakes lines from Wheeler's Off Road to complete the system.

Again, having purchased my 4Runner up North, I also figured the pins and springs in the rear drums would need replacing. Therefore, I purchased a set of rear OEM shoes, pins and springs to completely do the rear drums too.

For the Front, I purchased the following (All Prices listed are 'Total, Out the Door' Prices):

2001 Tundra Reman (S13WE, Pins included) Calipers (2) $300 - $100 Core Charge = $200
2001 Tundra Brembo Blank Rotors (2) = $124.00
2001 Tundra OEM (199mm) Pads (set) = $55.00
2002 4Runner OEM Hard Lines (set) – (These are the hard lines that come directly off the calipers.) = $10.00
2002 4Runner Goodridge SS Braided Brakes Lines (set) =$66.50

Parts Total = $455.50

EDIT: Just to be clear, in order to complete this upgrade, the Hard Lines and/or Soft Lines (SS Braided Brake Lines) DO NOT have to be replaced. I went a step further and did so because my OEM lines needed replacing.

As others have said, yes this was a simple “bolt on” upgrade. However, I knew I would not be able to complete all the work by myself. Yes, I could have done the fronts by myself, but I had planned to have more work than just fronts done. First off, I know zero about installing pins, springs and shoes in the rear brakes. Second, I also wanted my new calipers powder coated while the truck was down. (Yes, I could have had the calipers powder coated before I tore the truck down, but I needed to know if they fit my TRD IS wheels first to see if they rubbed. If they did rub, I’d have to grind the calipers down a bit, and well, I don’t own a grinder

.) With that said, I drove down to WabFab Off Road to pay Brian a visit.

The good news was, when we looked at the rear brakes, everything checked out clean! Not only did the shoes still look good, but it also appears the dealer replaced all the pins and springs in the rears before I bought it a year and a half ago. (Fortunately, I was able to return all the rear parts for a full refund.) I guess that's what I get for assuming the worst.

Now for the fronts - The front calipers & rotors were removed and put to the side. Mounted the new, thicker Tundra Rotors & Tundra Calipers for a test fit to see if they would rub my wheels any. Fortunately, we found no rubbing what so ever

. Plus, the dust shields themselves needed no trimming either.

Next, the new Tundra Calipers were dismantled to be powder coated. Just for grins, I had them powder coated High Gloss Red. Within a few hours of being pc'd, Brian already had them put back together and mounted on the truck. Next came the installation of the hard lines, followed by the ss braided lines. Finally, bled the brakes and I was good to go!

Drove down to the local Advanced Auto and returned my stock cores for a full refund

.

I can’t say enough about WabFab Off Road. Brian’s a great guy to do business with and does exceptional work. I definitely plan to continue doing business with him.

Some pictures from beginning to end:

The Old:

New vs. Old:

New Caliper pc'd and ready to go:

New Calipers, Pads & Rotors installed:

SS Braided Line (As luck would have it, they are red too ):

More shots:

Finished Product:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~

**DISCLAIMER** - The following method worked for me, but by no means is it the ONLY way to properly break-in new brakes. There are many useful tips on the internet that illustrate how to seat new brakes correctly. You may also want to check with your brake component manufacturer to get their recommendations on how to seat brakes properly. If you attempt the below method and it fails, do not seek recourse with me...I am simply passing along useful information.

Once my install was complete, I followed the following break-in period in order to properly seat the brakes: (This information comes to you courtesy of Squid...the site owner of Toyota Tundra Forum)

Brake Bedding:

Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated. This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc. Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder, and cracks or fissures in the brake pad material.

Pad glazing is typically caused by operating the brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not properly following the 'Bedding-in' instructions for the brake pads. Always follow the manufacturers brake pad bedding-in instructions and use a brake pad that has a temperature range that is sufficient for its intended use.

For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor. This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries. It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application.

Bedding In Advantages:

1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.
2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface.
This will eliminate 'green fade'.
3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer film, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.
4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.
5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.
6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.

I now have over 38,000 miles on my truck and no judder. I wonder if it's because I always perform this procedure on all my new vehicles (even motorcycles) and whenever I do a brake job.
For stop and go driving this is very important and I have a hunch that this might be part of the problem.

Bed In Procedure:

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 miles per hour. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS.

At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.

-Squid

This information can also be found on his site: Click here

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~

Hope this info helps

**

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

linuxrunner · 12-27-2007, 12:40 PM

Now that looks strong!!!! and clean, it's going to suck the first time you get it all mudy and dirty.

MillerPKA · 12-27-2007, 12:42 PM

good job man, i usually think red calipers are a bit too blingy but they blend in perfectly with the rest of the setup, props!

**waskillywabbit** · 12-27-2007, 12:50 PM

I'm not a fan of red by any means, but Bill's 3rd gen 4Runner is one of the cleanest and most meticulously kept I've seen, and the red looks good on his truck...especially to offset some of that damn nasty orange and blue. Looks good Bill!

Roll tide!

Rock Slide · 12-27-2007, 01:16 PM

Thanks guys.

Yeah, red was definitely not my 1st choice either (was leaning towards black or silver), but once I saw a small sample of the high gloss red, I was hooked

emptypockets · 12-27-2007, 01:24 PM

Nice! Looks like an upgrade to definitely keep in mind. I've been lucky with my brakes: 85K, all original and still going strong!

Mason Dixon · 12-27-2007, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

I'm not a fan of red by any means, but Bill's 3rd gen 4Runner is one of the cleanest and most meticulously kept I've seen, and the red looks good on his truck...especially to offset some of that damn nasty orange and blue. Looks good Bill!

Roll tide!

Roll Tide!

Walkerhiboost · 12-27-2007, 08:18 PM

I'm with him.... Roll Tide!!!

AustinTaco · 12-27-2007, 11:14 PM

sweet. I scored a set of tundra calipers and rotors on craigslist for $25! The pads have about 12k on them. I tempted to just try the setup as is instead of getting new pads.

Thanks for posting. Now i want to pc my calipers to match the Tacoma.

RacerX · 12-27-2007, 11:20 PM

I really wanted to do this as well but my runner is red so it would look a bit ridiculous.

I have to say; yours looks absolutely incredible...

RUMBLES · 12-28-2007, 12:40 AM

good job!! Thank you for the good information.
I got interested in caliper swap through this thread.

***Corey*** · 12-28-2007, 06:40 AM

I think it looks really good.
I have been thinking of doing the same, but with the brush on paint made for them.

Rock Slide · 12-28-2007, 06:54 AM

Yeah, I probably would have painted them by hand too, but for as little as Brian charged me to pc them, I couldn't refuse

.

Now days, anyone interested in having something pc'd, there are literally hundreds of colors to choose from. In one brochure I looked at, even a color that "glows in the dark" is offered. Possibilities are endless with this stuff.

Thanks again for all the compliments.

Nate08 · 12-28-2007, 08:34 AM

Rock Slide, how has the braking performance changed?

SC4Runner · 12-28-2007, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nate08

Rock Slide, how has the braking performance changed?

By just the color of those calipers, I would have to say "YES, by 10 fold!!"

No, seriously, that looks good!!! And, I am jealous of your Tundra brakes. I want to do this now.

Rock Slide · 12-28-2007, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nate08

Rock Slide, how has the braking performance changed?

To be honest, it's tough to pin point exactly. Reason being, I've been driving on bad brakes for some time now (2+ months). Therefore any thing new I put on there would have been an improvement over what I had.

With that said, yes braking is much, much better than it was before and I don't "baby" my brakes nearly as much as I did before either. I know it will stop now when I want it to.

As others have noted, the pedal did go down a tad bit further at first, but now it's as firm as stock. Once these brakes grab, they really grab.

Rock Slide · 12-28-2007, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SC4Runner

By just the color of those calipers, I would have to say "YES, by 10 fold!!"

No, seriously, that looks good!!! And, I am jealous of your Tundra brakes. I want to do this now.

Yep, color is everything

I say, go for it. It's just money...you'll earn more tomorrow.

Skrillah · 12-28-2007, 09:04 AM

Me too!!

x2 how has it changed/helped?

MTL_4runner · 12-28-2007, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rock Slide

As others have noted, the pedal does go down a tad bit further, but once it grabs, it grabs.

Try bleeding them with a homemade power bleeder:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...16142#msg16142

Mine went down a bit further too when I first installed them but the power bleeding fixed that.
My pedal is about the same firmness as stock, but grabs much quicker if you really get on the pedal.

Rock Slide · 12-28-2007, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skrillah

Me too!!

x2 how has it changed/helped?

see a couple posts up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTL_4runner

Try bleeding them with a homemade power bleeder:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...16142#msg16142

Mine went down a bit further too when I first installed them but the power bleeding fixed that.
My pedal is about the same firmness as stock, but grabs much quicker if you really get on the pedal.

Oops...guess I was thinking one thing and typing another

. Yes, my brake pedal went down a little further at first, but now it's as firm as stock. Thanks for pointing that out Jamie...I'll update my older post. Don't want to confuse anyone.

Ron Helmuth · 12-28-2007, 03:07 PM

Nice writeup and shots. I read nothing but good things about those wab-fab dudes. Thanks for sharing your results.

Sloan · 12-28-2007, 08:08 PM

sweet, i think i wanna do blue on mine..

4rnr4nick · 12-31-2007, 10:38 AM

How much did the whole project cost you roughly?

cuz my brakes SUCK! and it takes a lot of pushing to actually stop, so I'm thinking about doing the upgrade...

I would paint mine prolly blue

cackalak han · 12-31-2007, 10:56 AM

4runr4nick - Look up the Tundra brake upgrade in the tech section. It lists all of the parts and prices.

Rock Slide - Good job on the pics. I wanted to go with Tundra's, too, but I will see how this new set up works before spending any more cash.

Rock Slide · 12-31-2007, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4rnr4nick

How much did the whole project cost you roughly?

cuz my brakes SUCK! and it takes a lot of pushing to actually stop, so I'm thinking about doing the upgrade...

I would paint mine prolly blue

I've edited my original post to include where I purchased each of the parts and the prices of each. (Paragraph above parts list tells where I bought them.)

Yeah, these new brakes are great. I actually enjoy stopping now

Quote:

Originally Posted by cackalak han

4runr4nick - Look up the Tundra brake upgrade in the tech section. It lists all of the parts and prices.

Rock Slide - Good job on the pics. I wanted to go with Tundra's, too, but I will see how this new set up works before spending any more cash.

I was unable to find the parts at the same prices as others did, so I went ahead and edited my original post to include the prices I paid for them. Thank you anyway though.

Again, it wasn't much more for the Tundra parts vs the stock parts since I was replacing everything anyway.

12-27-2007, 12:42 PM	#3 (permalink)
MillerPKA Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: GSU/ATL/SD Posts: 1,322	good job man, i usually think red calipers are a bit too blingy but they blend in perfectly with the rest of the setup, props! __________________ Weston 97 SR5: Profile 883/LC with OME/PC shocks ∙ 2" body lift ∙ ARB bull bar ∙ Safari Snorkel ∙ KC/IPF aux lighting ∙ 315/75 BF Goodrich KM2s ∙ LC Wheels ∙ Vortex Cherrybomb ∙ Custom black/tan color scheme ∙ couple other things Toytec 4Runner Catalog

12-27-2007, 12:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,559	I'm not a fan of red by any means, but Bill's 3rd gen 4Runner is one of the cleanest and most meticulously kept I've seen, and the red looks good on his truck...especially to offset some of that damn nasty orange and blue. Looks good Bill! Roll tide! __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

12-27-2007, 01:16 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rock Slide Contributing Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: B'ham, AL... 2002 4Runner Sport 4WD Posts: 2,046	Thanks guys. Yeah, red was definitely not my 1st choice either (was leaning towards black or silver), but once I saw a small sample of the high gloss red, I was hooked __________________ 2002 4Runner Sport 4WD My 4Runner Profile Accessories: SS 7.1 Lift Kit, WabFab 1" BL, TJM T15, Stubb Sliders, FX/TSX HID Projector Retrofit, 1st Gen Rollbar, Tundra Brake Upgrade, Hilux Surf Field Monitor, TRD Ivan Stewart Wheels, Nitto TG 265/75s, WeatherTechs, Hella HID 4000s, LED Tail Lights, JBL Speakers Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod & Rear Diff Breather Mod *"Why fix a Jeep, when you can drive a Toyota?"*

12-27-2007, 01:24 PM	#6 (permalink)
emptypockets Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Spencer, Iowa Posts: 842	Nice! Looks like an upgrade to definitely keep in mind. I've been lucky with my brakes: 85K, all original and still going strong! __________________ Model: '02 4Runner SR5 - White On Natural Oak, Tan Interior Engine/Performance: 3.4L V6, Auto, AndyMod, Jardine Catback Exhaust, S&B Intake Rear Suspension: 3.75" lift with LC coils and Rancho RS5000 shocks Front Suspension: 3" lift with OME 882 springs and OME N91sc shocks, Diff Drop Tires: 285/75 R16 Fierce Attitude M/T's, Pacer 164P Alloy Wheels Misc: Full Time Power Outlet Mod, Extra Power Outlet Mod, GE Nighthawks My Profile: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2915959

12-27-2007, 11:20 PM	#10 (permalink)
RacerX Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 88	I really wanted to do this as well but my runner is red so it would look a bit ridiculous. I have to say; yours looks absolutely incredible... __________________ 97 4runner 2.7L Auto 2WD Radiant Red, Hypersilver Tundra wheels, Tundra brake upgrade, Cooper ATRs ---In the garage--- 88 BMW E30 M3- stroker motor-- garage queen 93 NX2000-road race car-- 2250lbs@300whp/tq--kidney killing suspension and a few dents

12-27-2007, 08:18 PM	#8 (permalink)
Walkerhiboost Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 27	I'm with him.... Roll Tide!!!

12-27-2007, 11:14 PM	#9 (permalink)
AustinTaco Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 280	sweet. I scored a set of tundra calipers and rotors on craigslist for $25! The pads have about 12k on them. I tempted to just try the setup as is instead of getting new pads. Thanks for posting. Now i want to pc my calipers to match the Tacoma.

12-28-2007, 12:40 AM	#11 (permalink)
RUMBLES Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Japan Posts: 21	good job!! Thank you for the good information. I got interested in caliper swap through this thread. __________________ '96 Hilux Surf 4WD 3.0L Turbo Diesel Intercooler 6" Lift 315/75R16 MT's My Hilux Surf Profile

12-28-2007, 06:40 AM	#12 (permalink)
*Corey* Co-Founder/Administrator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: Auburn, Washington Posts: 26,081	I think it looks really good. I have been thinking of doing the same, but with the brush on paint made for them. __________________ Corey 2007 FJ Cruiser Built for 4wheelin', expedition, camping, and overlanding use PNW FJ Cruisers ☺ Detailing 101 ☺ Join Topsites ☺ Muffler Comparisons ☺ Maggiolinas In The Wild FJ Cruiser Buildup ☺ New Roof Top Tent ☺ Video Of My Penthouse Part II ☺ Rehinge Your ARB/Engel Fridge Blog About Roof Top Tents ☺ FJC Magazines Online Review Of My Tent ☺ 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Pro

12-28-2007, 06:54 AM	#13 (permalink)
Rock Slide Contributing Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: B'ham, AL... 2002 4Runner Sport 4WD Posts: 2,046	Yeah, I probably would have painted them by hand too, but for as little as Brian charged me to pc them, I couldn't refuse . Now days, anyone interested in having something pc'd, there are literally hundreds of colors to choose from. In one brochure I looked at, even a color that "glows in the dark" is offered. Possibilities are endless with this stuff. Thanks again for all the compliments. __________________ 2002 4Runner Sport 4WD My 4Runner Profile Accessories: SS 7.1 Lift Kit, WabFab 1" BL, TJM T15, Stubb Sliders, FX/TSX HID Projector Retrofit, 1st Gen Rollbar, Tundra Brake Upgrade, Hilux Surf Field Monitor, TRD Ivan Stewart Wheels, Nitto TG 265/75s, WeatherTechs, Hella HID 4000s, LED Tail Lights, JBL Speakers Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod & Rear Diff Breather Mod *"Why fix a Jeep, when you can drive a Toyota?"* Last edited by Rock Slide; 12-28-2007 at 06:56 AM.

12-28-2007, 08:34 AM	#14 (permalink)
Nate08 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Bristol, TN Posts: 647	Rock Slide, how has the braking performance changed? __________________ Nate [/font] Suspension: Tundra TRD Fronts w/ Dual 3/8" "TerraBull" spacers: 2.5",Trekmasters, LC's/OEM LC Shocks: 3.5"... Performance: 4" Deckplate, TrueFlow Air Filter, ISR Mod... Shoes: 285/75/16 Nitto TG's, OEM 16x7 (6 spoke)... Armor: Stubbs Sliders... Exhaust: 18" Magnaflow SIDO, Magnaflow High-Flo Converter, 2.5" and 2.25" piping... Other Necessities: Custom Extendable Panhard Bar, Custom Bumpstop Drop Brackets, 1" Diff Drop...

12-28-2007, 09:04 AM	#18 (permalink)
Skrillah Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Bloomington,Indiana Posts: 859	Me too!! x2 how has it changed/helped? __________________ 1997 Toyota 4runner 4x4, 2.7L, Auto, 146k miles, KC Slimlites, Bilsteins, OME 881/890s, Custom Westin Push Bar, Brembo/Hawk Pads, Yakima Gear, Midland CB, 265/75/16 Bridgestone Revos, Limited 5-spoke rims (Custom),Herculined Rocker Panels, Diff. Breather mod,Deckplate mod,4.56 gearing, Pioneer head unit w/Ipod connection and Sirius Sat. Radio.

12-28-2007, 03:07 PM	#21 (permalink)
Ron Helmuth Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Denver metro area-CO Posts: 1,339	Nice writeup and shots. I read nothing but good things about those wab-fab dudes. Thanks for sharing your results. __________________ 99 4Runner SR5 4wd 3.4/5 spd- Fact. Rr. Locker/Diff Breather Ext. Old Man Emu lift springs- 881 fronts/890 rears O/M/E shocks- N91s fr./N86 rr. All Pro Off Road welded sliders-prevent body damage! ARB"Taco"bumper/Gamiviti clear lenses/Hella 500s Redline Tuning hood struts/Bushwacker Extend a Fenders all my photos are over on Facebook now-I gave up on photo hosting sorry.... http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&l=5795132731

12-31-2007, 10:38 AM	#23 (permalink)
4rnr4nick Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 81	How much did the whole project cost you roughly? cuz my brakes SUCK! and it takes a lot of pushing to actually stop, so I'm thinking about doing the upgrade... I would paint mine prolly blue

12-31-2007, 10:56 AM	#24 (permalink)
cackalak han Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Salt Lake Posts: 1,768	4runr4nick - Look up the Tundra brake upgrade in the tech section. It lists all of the parts and prices. Rock Slide - Good job on the pics. I wanted to go with Tundra's, too, but I will see how this new set up works before spending any more cash. __________________ 01 Tacoma DC TRD OR 4x4

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Tundra Brake Upgrade...	bamachem	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	102	03-16-2007 04:21 PM
Tundra brake upgrade	ohio4runner4x4	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	6	11-17-2006 08:54 AM
Need brake pads for my 13WL (231mm) Tundra calipers	maguirre	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	6	11-10-2006 09:25 PM
brake upgrade on 84 sfa to ifs calipers and land cruiser rotor	titicaca	84-85 Trucks & 4Runners	6	10-01-2006 07:03 AM