dragon564

The ball joints are a REAL MOTHER BEAR to get free.....I have gone at some for 3 or more hours....I have used both the pickle forks and the 7315 (pic above) type at the same time to break those thing free, it just takes some time to get them out......

colsoncj

not to hijack, but i have a quick question that kinda relates to this... wouldn't the cv's make noise only under power transfer?

arielb1

Hey Dave and all,

I found a great website where I purchase the OTC 6295 for $106. I plan to pick it up tomorrow. Turns out they have a local pickup facility. I am hoping this will work for me.

Last night I tried again with a different pickle fork. Wouldn't you know it; it is too narrow. It did not fit between ball joint and arm. IT is either too narrow or the lift is not high enough. How different pickle forks are out there? I would buy one from a website, but now I realize there are various sizes of pickle forks.

Dragon, I have been going at this for at least four hours now. I really feel most of my effort is from learning and not having the proper tools. My biggest concern is not damaging the lower ball joint and/or over extending the brake line. Question for all of you, should I reattach the four nuts on top of the ball joint then whack it with a pickle fork? Until this morning, I thought the 7315 would be enough to break this loose. During my research I found replacement parts for the 7315 so this lead me to believe that the tool can break.

I was told cv's make noise only on full turns going forward or backward. If the car is going straight and still clunking, it is not the cv issue. Go figure.

Thanks all I will keep you posted.

DaveInDenver

Any tool can break, but pullers are pretty simple devices and there's not much to break beyond the body of the tool. I wouldn't worry too much about breaking OTC stuff, they are quality tools. If you do, they should back their products up, they've been around for a long time.

Pickle forks do come in different sizes. You want the fork that is just wide enough to span the threads without too much slop. The only way it seems to get a perfect fit is to buy the Toyota forks, which is big money. Otherwise it's just trial and error.

When removing ball joints and tie rod ends, particularly if they have been in place for years, it does take a lot of force. Spraying them with penetrating oil helps, heat sometimes also helps. But mostly it's gonna seem like you're ready to break something as you turn the wrench and then POP!, it's free. Probably good to point out that glasses & gloves are good, think about safety.

Dunno if it will change anything to reattach the 4 bolts, might hold the ball joint more steady. But with the upper a-arm attached to the ball joint, you'll have to be careful to unload the torsion bars, otherwise you're working again that, too. I'd take a few turns out of the torsion bar, cycle the suspension all the way up and remove the bolts. Then lower the lower a-arm and spindle down away from the upper arm, leaving a few inch gap between the upper arm and top of the upper ball joint. You'll need the space anyway to get the ball joint out. If you take all the twist out of the torsion rods, the arm will stay or you can shove a small piece of wood between the upper bump stop and the bottom of the arm. Use something as a shim that will not break, wood, old brake pads, big hunk of metal.

arielb1

YIPPE ! ! ! Y A H O O O O O O ! ! ! !

Dave, it finally broke free. I must of read your last post 8 times. I used the PB penetration spray to soak it over night. I put the castle nut back on and wacked the nut a few tiimes. Today, I noticed that there was a little thin sleeve around the spindle where the pickle fork should wrap around. It was preventing the pickle fork from going into the spindle. Once I got the the pickle fork wedge between the ball joint and arm, I wacked it until it was stuck between the two components. In fact, I got pretty scared that it would stay that way. Just then I read your post again and followed your 'heating' suggestion. I heated the spindle with a propane torch ( fire extinguisher in arms length) and the top of the arm just till the rubber started melting. I gave it 5 good one arm wacks with my sledge hammer and it finally came OFF! What a relief!!! Good Grief...

I still plan to pick up the OTC tools from my neighborhood store. I am getting the 6295 kit for a steal $105. Since I am now experienced in removing the upper ball joint, I figured I will want this set in the future.

Tomorrow I plan to put everything back together again. Hopefully I did not break anything else. You know Dave, you were an incredible amount of help. Thank you everyone - especially you Dave for your support. I have learned so much. You deserve GREAT Karma. I will pass your good deed onward. You have made me a better mechanic! Someday I will have to learn how to do a lower ball joint and learn what a torsion bar is. I will keep you posted after I reassemble my toy hopefully by this weekend. Okay, I love working on vehicles again...now that the ball joint if off...he he he.

Someone at work said I might as well do the rest; lower ball joint and the other side upper and lower ball joint while I have it apart. Do you agree? It will cost more. Since it has 110k miles, I was told it is time to do it anyway, then have it aligned.

dragon564

I agree with your co worker...but for different reasons.....the lower makes sense I can see replacing them both at the time....the other side.....probally fine. .....but you now know all the tricks to it and sense you should get a front realignment after your done, do them all now and not really have to worry about again for a long time.....however you choose to go with the other three GLAD IT WORKED OUT FOR YOU