Tacoma Manual Hub Conversion With Factory Parts Complete
#1
Tacoma Manual Hub Conversion With Factory Parts Complete
The motivation for this was to disallow the cv shaft rotation at highway driving....plus the locking hubs look cool.
I now need to lock the hubs before going offroad, then use the selector stick as usual.
Don't have any pictures but I just did this swap over the weekend. Was pretty straightforward.
The most difficult part was changing the upper balljoints with the c-clamp tool since the ones I got with the parts were old.
Other thing that was a little hard was removing the locking hub mechanism from the wheel hub. There are these little cones around the bolts that are on there pretty tight. You need to hit the side of the locking hub with a hammer to pop these things out to remove the locking hub. Dont hit too hard or it deforms the aluminum of the locking hub. But it is needed to remove this to install the axle c-clip.
Truck: 96 tacoma 4x4 with t-case gear selector
Parts list:
cv axles from locking hub tacoma
complete uprights with wheel hubs and locking hubs still installed
all from a tacoma with locking hubs (2.7 L was the most common I think)
moog upper and lower ball joints from advance
Tools:
regular hand tools
impact wrench
prybars
c-clamp balljoint tool from advance
3-jaw puller from advance
chassis grease
anti-seize
wire bruches
paint (I chose to paint the spindles black with the rustoleum in the can)
patience
I now need to lock the hubs before going offroad, then use the selector stick as usual.
Don't have any pictures but I just did this swap over the weekend. Was pretty straightforward.
The most difficult part was changing the upper balljoints with the c-clamp tool since the ones I got with the parts were old.
Other thing that was a little hard was removing the locking hub mechanism from the wheel hub. There are these little cones around the bolts that are on there pretty tight. You need to hit the side of the locking hub with a hammer to pop these things out to remove the locking hub. Dont hit too hard or it deforms the aluminum of the locking hub. But it is needed to remove this to install the axle c-clip.
Truck: 96 tacoma 4x4 with t-case gear selector
Parts list:
cv axles from locking hub tacoma
complete uprights with wheel hubs and locking hubs still installed
all from a tacoma with locking hubs (2.7 L was the most common I think)
moog upper and lower ball joints from advance
Tools:
regular hand tools
impact wrench
prybars
c-clamp balljoint tool from advance
3-jaw puller from advance
chassis grease
anti-seize
wire bruches
paint (I chose to paint the spindles black with the rustoleum in the can)
patience
Last edited by dfoxengr; 09-20-2010 at 04:58 AM.
#3
The motivation for this was to disallow the cv shaft rotation at highway driving....plus the locking hubs look cool.
Other thing that was a little hard was removing the locking hub mechanism from the wheel hub. There are these little cones around the bolts that are on there pretty tight. You need to hit the side of the locking hub with a hammer to pop these things out to remove the locking hub. Dont hit too hard or it deforms the aluminum of the locking hub.
Other thing that was a little hard was removing the locking hub mechanism from the wheel hub. There are these little cones around the bolts that are on there pretty tight. You need to hit the side of the locking hub with a hammer to pop these things out to remove the locking hub. Dont hit too hard or it deforms the aluminum of the locking hub.
You don't want to hit the hub with a regular hammer, go to northern tool and get yourself a brass hammer. The hammer deforms before the aluminum does.
Mauzer I spent around 500 on my manual hub swap, and for me it was well worth it
#6
Also:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a...ersion-181105/
and
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/review...ub_conversion/
ORS and Downey are now both out of business however.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a...ersion-181105/
and
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/review...ub_conversion/
ORS and Downey are now both out of business however.
Last edited by DeathCougar; 04-24-2014 at 06:57 PM.
#7
yeah I dont have ABS and I paid 450 shipped for hubs, spindles, axles, and all necessary hardware from a Non-ABS Tacoma.
but it's not too terribly expensive except for the new balljoints...
but it's not too terribly expensive except for the new balljoints...
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#8
If i have ABS (i do) but don't really need it, if I do this swap will the ABS light come one? If so is there a way to disable it...w/o covering it w/ electrical tape lol
#9
the light should come on. i am not sure how to disable, but i would recommend getting the parts pressed into your spindle and keep the abs. would probably be best for safety inspection if you have it, and insurance.
#10
hmm sounds pretty easy, if you could get those pics up it would help i want to do the conversion a.s.a.p. and need to upgrade my suspention at the same time maby a front locker as well. thanks for the info
#11
wow, i don't come on here often, haha.
The pictures really won't help much, it was just a bolt on affair. After removing the factory spindles and axles replace with the replacements as taken off a manual hub truck.
The pictures really won't help much, it was just a bolt on affair. After removing the factory spindles and axles replace with the replacements as taken off a manual hub truck.
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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
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