Yukon

So My rear axle seals failed, and im pretty sure got oil in the rear brakes. So they need to get fixed. My main question is, is this a shop job, or is it relatively easy? Ive never done any work on drums before...

Obviously you'd need to clean out the drum, brake parts cleaner and towels, or a new/machined drum? Obviously new pads, anything else besides a good bleed?

Id like to get this fixed ASAP, hopefully getting parts today if its a do it yourself type thing.

I searched but couldn't really find any how-to's on how to do it, anyone?

Truck has about 101k on it if it is important

zlathim

If you have never done drum brakes, they might prove to be a bit challenging. Having the right spring tools will help immensly. Those return springs can be a pain in the neck otherwise.

The drums may not necessarily be bad, but they need to be measured to be sure. If there is any doubt, just buy new ones, but replace them both even if only one of them is bad.

I have no idea about your mechanical aptitude, so I hesitate to say "You can handle it!" I have had to help a few guys put things back together after they attempted to do it themselves. If you do decide to give it a shot, be sure to take some digital pics before teardown. It will help you to avoid confusion on reassembly. Do only one side at a time too. That way you can look at the other side to see where things should be if you forget.

If you do not rplace the wheel cylinders, there will be no need to bleed the brakes. Be sure to pull the rubber dust boots back in order to check for leakage.

4x4mike

I replaced the rear pads, a wheel cylinder and axle seal the other week. It's the first big reapir I have done on the 4 runner since I've had it. I used Bobs write up (4runners.org) and it helped a lot. I have worked on drum brakes before but don't have any special brake tools.

Drain the diff. Remove the wheel and them drum. Disconnect the ebrake cable. Disconnect the brake line from the cylinder. Remove the 4 nuts holding the backing plate on the axle tube. Slowly and carefully pull the shaft out of the house while holding onto the backing plate. Yank out and replace the INNER seal. Clean everything. Put axle back in housing. Tighten the 4 bolts. Remove pads (take a picture if you think you're going to have trouble getting everything back where they go, I did). Clean everything. Put everything back together. Spray it with a little brake cleaner. Reinstall ebrake cable and brake line. Fill diff. Put wheel back on. Bleed brakes and drive.

That's it in a nut shell. I did the job myself in 2 hours. I did need help bleeding the brakes but other than that it's a one man job.

Yukon

Thanks for the advice, looks like this is going to be a shop job, my parents insist, and say they'll pay.

What is a good price for doing something like that?

Nuthuts96

iTrader: (1)

i'd say not cheap. just looking at 4x4mike's time, 2 hours (shop will probably charge you 3), at least $75/hour, plus parts, i'd say $350, 400.

that's ballpark (in my mind), but an option would be to look at the local dealer's website, and see if they have a deal running- they usually are pretty comparable if they have a deal to the 3rd party shops.

parents willing to pay for the job are definitely a GOOD alternative!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I'm sure they will charge more than 400.

Did you already get the axle seals (all three per side) replaced? If not, you are just going to keep having the problem

toytech76

Where are you located? To replace rear axle seals, possibly bearings, shoes and turn drums, you are probably looking at $500-$600 worst case. Be sure whoever you have do it, use the updated inner axle seal part # 90310-50006

Yukon

I did the rear seals already myself, drove on it a bit no more leaking so we are god there, just need the brakes done.
Midas said around 200 and the stealer said 269.99 and that includes turnng the drums at $25 a side.

dirtoyboy

I would spend the extra cash and have the dealer do it...much better quality parts...


Alos, Yukon...did you check out your wheel bearings while you had it apart?
OR what was the cause of the seal failure? bad wheel bearings?

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Had the same issue just this past weekend preparing for my trip to California. Did all the "pre-underways" (I'm an ex-sailor) and did all those necessary maintenance things, oil and filter, check boots, greasing, tight undercarriage bolts, exhaust system checks etc. Then when I was rotating the tires, I noted what looked like oil on my left rear brake drum. This started me thinking maybe I had a bad wheel cylinder. this was not in the plan, so I figured I had better check this as I didn't need any issues on the trip so I pulled the drum. The interior of the drum was coated in a dark thick oil, almost like grease. The brake shoes were totally soaked, and smelled of gear oil ... yep, seal was leaking. This was not what I wanted to see just before my trip, but then again, better now then 1/2 way there!

In my case I had purchased a power train Plus after market warranty when I bought the truck a year ago so I checked and found out the seals were covered. Only problem was the brakes are not. Even though I argued with the insurance company that the covered part failed and damaged the brakes, they clearly stated in the warranty that brakes are not a covered item and would not be covered even in the event of a failure of a covered part. Service then informed me the to replace the rear brakes, turn drums assemble, bleed and test was going to be $220.

This was not in the vacation budget! Fortunately I have a great dealership here in Bremerton, and because of another insurance issue they helped me deal with, the finance manager took care of the issue with the brakes. Even though most Toyota OEM parts are marked up a bit, I have always been treated really well at my dealership. I have several people there who value my patronage and treat me very well, Sales, Service, Techs, all around, I don't hesitate taking the truck into them for advice on what needs to be done or for things I know I can't do myself. With only a few days till I leave, yeah, let them do it. My time is worth something too.

So yesterday while the techs were doing the brake work, they also inspected the truck for any other potential issues and found that my valve cover gasket and the rear engine plugs were also showing signs of leakage, so they are getting the insurance company to cover those as well. If all goes well, I will have my truck back today, new rear seal, drained and filled rear differential, new rear brakes, new valve cover gaskets, new rear engine seal plugs ... my cost? $0 Also all the work is covered by the dealership. That aftermarket warranty is finally paying for itself.

Hopefully you have a dealreship you trust and will treat you right. Check with the service department too and see what sort of flyers they have. Most, at least mine does, run summer specials on maintenance items, parts and services. Its worth a check. You will need to replace your rear brakes as the shoes even if you clean them with solvent/brake cleaner, they will weep gear oil and will eventually begine to gum up the shoes and drum. Good luck

SWPERIC

I am going to be replacing my shoes and drums soon. i have never tried this b4. how do i know if i need new wheel cylinders? if they r not leaking should i leave them?

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

How long were the shoes soaked in oil? it may still be useable.. just dry and use fine sandpaper on them. after trying and you find that they ain't working or effective, then replace the just the shoes..no need to work on the drums.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Check the wheel cylinders for leakage, make sure the dust boots are not torn and if they are fine, no need to replace them. Brakes are not that difficult to do yourself. Pads in the front, shoes in the rear, calipers in the front, turn the rotors, replace the shoes and turn the drums in the rear. pretty straight forward. Check a factory service manual or a Haynes manual and you should get all the info you need. Good luck