arielb1

Thank you for helping me....MTL, hope you see this.

I just started fixing my brakes...again. This is the third time it has been done. Two by a mechanic and my first for me. Essentially, the rotors are warping with 5k miles. The entire truck and steering wheel would shake.

I jacked up the truck and tried to turn the tires before I removed them. I quickly noticed that the tires would not turn easily. After I removed the tires, the rotors would hardly turn. Apparently, the pads were locked onto the rotors. As soon as I removed the calipers, the rotors would turn freely without effort. I was told to replace both calipers since both sides were locked onto the rotors.

Can you please list the steps to replace the calipers? Why do you think both front calipers failed at 110K miles? Is this normal? Any other advise?

Thank you for your help.

eric-the-red

Replacing the calipers isn't too difficult. Undo the brake line, unbolt the caliper, 2 bolts at the back, bolt new caliper on, attach line, insert pads and bleed. This is all after you take the wheels off, of course.
Calipers usually seize up because moisture in the brake fluid causes rust inside the calipers and the pistons get frozen, which stops the brakes releasing. Hence the warped rotors. It's a good idea to replace brake fluid every 2 years as preventative measure.

arielb1

Thanks Eric... Sounds easy enough. I will give it a try now.

eric-the-red

One thing I did forget to mention is make sure you put the new calipers on the correct sides, the bleed screws have to be at the top. Otherwise you'll never get the air out.

arielb1

Hey Eric,

If I take the caliper off, what keeps the brake fluid from coming out?

thanks for your time. I do appreciate it...good karma to you

eric-the-red

Some fluid will come out of the lines, but you have to bleed the brakes after anyway so it doesn't matter. Put a container or some old newspapers under there to catch it. Also I usually take the little rubber cap from the bleed screws and put that on the end of the line, that stops most of the fluid.
Just keep the fluid of the paint, it'll eat it.

arielb1

Thank you eric.

Unfortunately just found out my 3yr daughter has a fever. She stayed home instead of watching the ice skating show with her mom. Now I have to watch her instead of dealing with my break. Furthermore, I have to do more research how to replace the pads. So far it appears all I have to do is remove the paper clips which will release the pads. Once the pads are out, compress the caliper and insert the pads. Of course, bleed the brakes. I will keep in touch. You did your deed for the day. Thanks again. Let me know if you have more to add. Love to hear them. thanks for teaching me....Ariel

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Replacing and/or rebuilding a caliper is an easy job. I just tore down mine on my 85. A couple bolts, a few clips, nothing to it. 1 bananna on a 5 bananna scale.

arielb1

You are too funny Waskilly. I have always enjoyed reading your post. Thanks for the confidence builder.

Hey, do people actually rebuild their caliper? Kinda makes me curious. I have a set arriving from Autozone at 6:00 pst p.m. today although I cannot pick them up until tomorrow. Happy Holidays...Stay safe.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

New OEM caliper for my 85 4Runner...$125 each. Rebuild kit, which is all the guts, you just reuse the cast piece, are $35 each. So $250 vs. $70...guess which one I did?

arielb1

Autozone calipers are $40 a piece. Lifetime warantee. I hope it works out. Cant afford the toyota price. Where did you find the rebuild kit? Just curious.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

$40 lifetime warrantee is a good deal. Rebuild kit is available from the d(st)ealership.

Bigblock

Both calipers at the same time throws a big red flag to me. You need to look above the calipers at the master cylinder. Are you 100% positive that nothing but brake fluid went into the master cylinder. P/S fluid or ATF or engine oil will swell all the rubber parts in the braking system therefore causing malfunction.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

EXCELLENT point.

arielb1

Thanks 3yotys for the red flag.

I thought both calipers failing at the same time was very unusual too. However, I've had this problem for some time now, rotors warping that is. Only until I took the matter in my own hands did I discover both the calipers bound to the rotors. I am absolutely sure nothing but brake fluid went into my reservior. After giving much thought to your 'red flag', I will do a complete flush of the master cylinder. When the new calipers are in, then I plan to bleed all four brakes until I go through two to three bottles of brake fluid to ensure what ever is in the master cylinder will be washed out. Brake fluid is cheap enough. Any thoughts? Oh, the other problem I had was my back shoes apparently were not being used. When I took the drum off the shoes were still like new...remember, I have 110k on my truck. So I when and turned the spindle from behind the back plate until I only got 4-5 clicks when I pulled on my e-brake. One more issue. Only the inner side off my front pad show any wear. The other pad looks new. This might be indicative of calipers failing as well. thanks all.

Marc

If your rotors are too thin they will warp quite quickly. I don't think they can be machined too many times. Also, It is not uncommon for there to be a bit of drag between the pads and the rotor making it difficult to rotate the rotors especially with the wheels off.

arielb1

Thanks Marc,

I don't turn my rotors. They are always new and I verify the thickness of the rotors are the same. The tires would not turn freely at all. When I removed the calipers, then I was able to turn the rotor with hardly any effort. In fact, I could spin the rotors once the calipers were off.

Thank you! ! !

Marc

I would think if you are warping new rotors then the pads must have been riding all the time. I'm sure new calipers will help. Good luck.

Bigblock

Your back brakes sound like they are normal for 110k. You shouldn't have very much drag on your front brakes; unless you have a 40 ft body-lift (literally). There is an adjustment. Have you replaced your master cylinder lately? There's an adjustable nutt sticking out of the brake booster, there must be SOME play between the master cylinder and the brake booster.