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Has anyone replaced their radiator in the 3rd gen runner? After I start my ride I noticed some leaking from the bottom back right of the radiator. It is a steady drip. I was fixing to drive it to the stealership to have the water pump and timing belt done, but it looks like I'll be trailering it now. BLAH!

mkgarrison5

how many miles on the truck? shouldnt be leaking.. check the valve at the bottom of the radiator. could be open slightly causing it to leak

cackalak han

Make sure that it's coming from the radiator, and not the hoses. If it is the radiator (which is not abnormal. Mine went at 70k), you can change it out yourself. If not, you should still be able to drive it to the dealership just fine. Have a bottle of coolant on hand just in case.

mkgarrison5

your radiator went out at 70k miles?? thats way way way too soon for a yota. i know guys who wheel alot and there is still intact at over 200k miles

bob200587

Mine finally went just recently...Got a good 20 years out of the first one, hopefully this one will last just as long.

cackalak han

Yes, at 70k. It was along the top plastic area that started leaking, though. I've actually have heard of many Toyota's (and various other makes) that have problems right around 90k-100k mark. All of my past Honda's have had the radiators go at 100k like clockwork.

There will always be people that have good luck with radiators. Doesn't mean that it's the norm. It's like guys with original timing belts, clutches, brakes at 200k--it IS possible, but not a guarantee.

BTW, my Tacoma is at 107k, so I'm watching it almost daily. Maybe this will be one of the lucky ones that will last 200k. ::

Mtriple

Mine went at 85k, replaced it with a all metal 2 row from radiator barn, couldnt be happier. The thing that you need to be careful about with the stock composite radiator is when you remove it. There are 4 square nuts that are held in a channel on the composite endtanks. If you have any sort of corrosion, when you try to loosen one of the bolts that secure the radiator to the core support, you will spin the square not and crack the radiator endtanks.

https://www.radiatorbarn.com/

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Radiator replacement is really simple to do yourself. All you need is a couple of sockets, ratchet, extention, channel lock pliers and a small flat tip screw driver. Pull the grill (small flat tip screwdriver), drain radiator, remove the clamps to the upper and lower hose (channel lock pliers), remove the hoses from radiator, remove four bolts from inside engine bay holding fan shroud (10 mm), remove the 4 bolts from the front side of the radiator (12 mm & why you removed the grille) which hold the side rails then pull the radiator out. Exactly how I did it when I did the electric fan mod. Getting the radiator out took about an hour and that counts draining it. Reverse the procedure and replace with new radiator hoses and you're going to be good to go. Going with a replacement radiator that is steel construction vice composite would most likely solve the low milage issue of the thing cracking or breaking the rest of the time you own it.

mkgarrison5

interesting..i have been told (granted i said told) time and time again that they do last a long time, well over 100k miles.. hmmm maybe i should keep a closer eye on her then...

mkgarrison5

it only shows a 1 row for our tacos and 4runners not a 2 row.. maybe i looked in the wrong place?

cackalak han

FWIW, I ordered a radiator from radiatorbarn a few years ago for $120 shipped (for my Honda). I installed it and it started leaking. I called them up and they said that I had to ship it back at MY expense and they will test it and either repair or send me a new one in 1-2 weeks. 1-2 weeks??!! I was pissed told them I needed the car, because it was my daily driver, but all they could suggest was that I buy ANOTHER radiator from them and when I send mine back, they could give me a refund MINUS the shipping fee, which came out to $100. So, then, I'd be losing out on $20 to ship the original back, another $120 to get another radiator and up to 2 weeks of downtime. That means I spent $260 on the radiator(s) and a credit of $100 = $160. I just hung up and took the radiator to a local shop that fixed it for $25. They mentioned if I had bought from them, they would've fixed it for free or given me a new one ($110 from them + tax) that day. From then on, I've always tried to buy locally. Not worth the headache. Rant over.

mkgarrison5

good point han, though i bought from the barn for my old wrangler and it was a great replacement. the original was replaced at around 100k miles, the one from the barn (OEM replacement) lasted until i sold it at over 200k miles..

cackalak han

Yeah, it's really a crap shoot, I think. I still have a $30 floor jack I bought from Pepboys 8 years ago and it's been used and abused heavily, but continues to work today, while my friend's $150 Craftsman took a dive after a couple years of use.

Anyway, I don't think it's worth the chances, as the radiators are about the same price locally, plus I really ticked me off how they (radiatorbarn) treated that whole situation. I know people have had good experiences with them, but I personally will never buy from them again.

Mtriple

Hmmm, here's the spec's right from their site.

Specifications
Core Size:22-5/8 X 25-1/4 X 1-5/16
Inlet Header:25-9/16 X 1-3/4
Outlet Header:25-9/16 X 1-3/4
Inlet Connection:TOP 1-3/8 PASSENGERS SIDE
Outlet Connection:BOTTOM 1-3/8 DRIVERS SIDE
Transmission Oil Cooler: YES
Engine Oil Cooler:NONE
Mounting:Notes:TWO ROW, ALL METAL
$183.18 2002 TOYOTA FOUR RUNNER radiator
$0.00 FREE Shipping in the Continental United States
$0.00 FREE Lifetime Warranty
-$5.00 Online Discount

mkgarrison5

i did type in "tacoma" maybe they offer something different? shouldnt! its the same damn truck basically