Proper soldering techniques
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Proper soldering techniques
I have to solder the FTC from URD's fuel kit to my ECU this weekend. What precautions do I need to make so I won't short out or damage either the ECU or FTC? I do know to disconnect the battery. I'll probably try to remove the ECU from the vehicle so I can work on it more easily.
-S
____
-S
____
#4
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SLC Punk
Heat the wire, not the solder..
When I installed my TMC 1.1, it came with wire splices. Can't you use the same thing for the FTC?
When I installed my TMC 1.1, it came with wire splices. Can't you use the same thing for the FTC?
#6
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, well, I guess I know a little more than I let on. I do know to heat the work, not the solder. What I'm really after is if there is any chance I can do electrical damage to the devices. I don't really understand the physics of electric stoves and soldering irons, so I don't know if they put off an electrical charge if they get grounded. (I've never tried to put both hands on the stove so see if it would shock the life out of me....)
Thanks, guys, for the reminder. Somebody might read this thread in the future and not already know to heat the work.
-Sherpa
Thanks, guys, for the reminder. Somebody might read this thread in the future and not already know to heat the work.
-Sherpa
#7
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think you'll be ok. I used to install stereos where I used to work and I soldered all the time with the battery connected and never had a problem.
Trending Topics
#8
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SLC Punk
Heat the wire, not the solder..
When I installed my TMC 1.1, it came with wire splices. Can't you use the same thing for the FTC?
When I installed my TMC 1.1, it came with wire splices. Can't you use the same thing for the FTC?
-S
#9
Registered User
sherpa,
in my write up on http://4runners.org/articles/headunit/ about installing a new head unit, look under "step 2". in the last paragraph or so, there's a link on the proper way to solder. its the best tutorial w/ pics that i've seen on soldering.
edit: a good tip is to use a box and cut slits in it. place the shrink tubing on one of the wires, twist them together, and then put the two wires on the box slits. heat the wires and eventually when the wire is hot enough, touch the solder to the bare wires and then it'll flow into all the little wire crevices.
i'd recommend practicing to get the "feel", especially to get a sense of how many seconds it takes before the wire is hot enough to apply the solder
bob
in my write up on http://4runners.org/articles/headunit/ about installing a new head unit, look under "step 2". in the last paragraph or so, there's a link on the proper way to solder. its the best tutorial w/ pics that i've seen on soldering.
edit: a good tip is to use a box and cut slits in it. place the shrink tubing on one of the wires, twist them together, and then put the two wires on the box slits. heat the wires and eventually when the wire is hot enough, touch the solder to the bare wires and then it'll flow into all the little wire crevices.
i'd recommend practicing to get the "feel", especially to get a sense of how many seconds it takes before the wire is hot enough to apply the solder
bob
#10
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I think you'll be ok. I used to install stereos where I used to work and I soldered all the time with the battery connected and never had a problem.
#11
you shouldn't hurt any of the electronics if you are just soldering the wires... Just don't heat up the electronics... More than likely the chips in the ECU were/are soldered to some type of interconnect board (ie printed circuit board) so they were heated under assembly unless they were wire bonded using ultrasounics.
edit do disconnect the ECU first...
edit do disconnect the ECU first...
Last edited by TacomaTRD; 01-11-2005 at 01:28 PM.
#14
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Outstanding! That is exactly what I was looking for! Much appreciated!
-Sherpa
I love these forums. It is the wealth of knowledge and the sharing of that knowledge that is just one of the things that makes this such a cool place. -S
-Sherpa
I love these forums. It is the wealth of knowledge and the sharing of that knowledge that is just one of the things that makes this such a cool place. -S
Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
sherpa,
in my write up on http://4runners.org/articles/headunit/ about installing a new head unit, look under "step 2". in the last paragraph or so, there's a link on the proper way to solder. its the best tutorial w/ pics that i've seen on soldering.
edit: a good tip is to use a box and cut slits in it. place the shrink tubing on one of the wires, twist them together, and then put the two wires on the box slits. heat the wires and eventually when the wire is hot enough, touch the solder to the bare wires and then it'll flow into all the little wire crevices.
i'd recommend practicing to get the "feel", especially to get a sense of how many seconds it takes before the wire is hot enough to apply the solder
bob
in my write up on http://4runners.org/articles/headunit/ about installing a new head unit, look under "step 2". in the last paragraph or so, there's a link on the proper way to solder. its the best tutorial w/ pics that i've seen on soldering.
edit: a good tip is to use a box and cut slits in it. place the shrink tubing on one of the wires, twist them together, and then put the two wires on the box slits. heat the wires and eventually when the wire is hot enough, touch the solder to the bare wires and then it'll flow into all the little wire crevices.
i'd recommend practicing to get the "feel", especially to get a sense of how many seconds it takes before the wire is hot enough to apply the solder
bob
#15
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm just soldering the harness, not circuit boards. I've done a little soldering in the past, but never on something so expensive. I figured now would be a good time to make sure I was doing it right!
-S
-S
Originally Posted by Cebby
Are you soldering in the harness or on a circuit board (did I miss this detail?)
#16
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will. The power inverter I used can connect directly to the battery, so I'll just disconnect the negative terminal.
-S
-S
Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
just unplug the neg battery cable to be safe.
bob
bob
#17
Contributing Member
The soldering iron does not produce any external charge (ie no current or voltage given off) at all and thus you are fine to use it on really any electronics you want. As someone mentioned, the easiest way to really do damage is to overheat something on a circuit board (I have done that more times than I care to admit....but you gotta learn right!?). Since I assume you are not soldering directly on any boards then you should be totally safe. I try to use the rule of not soldering within 3" of a connector (esp when it connects to a circuit board) and that way you make sure the heat doesn't travel down the wire and damage a component on a board or melt part of the connector.
Another good tip for soldering is to clean the tip regularly after it has been tinned and used a bit. I usually clean it after each connection is made. You do this with an old sponge or folded paper towel soaked in water and wipe off any excess solder and any burnt crap that accumulates on the tip. While you are using the iron the tip should be nice and shiny (if it is not, clean it and if it is still covered in black crap, just hit it lightly with a file or scrape with a razor or knife). This just ensures maximum heat transfer from the iron and all but guarantees a good solder joint. Be sure to get rosin core solder and some extra flux if you get a joint that does not want to cooperate.
This was a great site Bob!...good find!
http://tools.aubuchonhardware.com/do..._to_solder.asp
Another good tip for soldering is to clean the tip regularly after it has been tinned and used a bit. I usually clean it after each connection is made. You do this with an old sponge or folded paper towel soaked in water and wipe off any excess solder and any burnt crap that accumulates on the tip. While you are using the iron the tip should be nice and shiny (if it is not, clean it and if it is still covered in black crap, just hit it lightly with a file or scrape with a razor or knife). This just ensures maximum heat transfer from the iron and all but guarantees a good solder joint. Be sure to get rosin core solder and some extra flux if you get a joint that does not want to cooperate.
This was a great site Bob!...good find!
http://tools.aubuchonhardware.com/do..._to_solder.asp
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 01-12-2005 at 06:14 AM.
#18
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jamie,
Thanks for the additional tips. I have learned a lot from this thread! Now I think I know why my el cheapo soldering pencil didn't work very well. It had an entirely black tip. Next time I find it and use it I'll be sure to take a wire brush to the tip and clean off all the paint or whatever black coating is on it. I also didn't know anything about tinning before now.
Thanks to all!
-Scott
Thanks for the additional tips. I have learned a lot from this thread! Now I think I know why my el cheapo soldering pencil didn't work very well. It had an entirely black tip. Next time I find it and use it I'll be sure to take a wire brush to the tip and clean off all the paint or whatever black coating is on it. I also didn't know anything about tinning before now.
Thanks to all!
-Scott
#19
Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oswego County, NY (no, not near NYC)
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've been a computer tech for the past 15 years, and one thing I would recommend is to use a soldering iron with a grounded tip. One is available from Radio Shack for under $10. I know you're not working on IC's, but it does involve a computer, and you can never be too safe, especially with the small price.
#20
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 5,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There isn't much room back there and the wires are pretty short.
http://slcpunk2003.tripod.com/id16.html
http://slcpunk2003.tripod.com/id16.html