ulysses76

It seems to small to access the fuel pump. If you did, it would be pretty tricky.

So I'm still waiting on the fuel pump mount to be delivered. In the meantime I ordered a an Equus 3130 scanner here's the data I pulled, these ranges are from warm idle(CL) to driving about 30mph. I'm not sure what the normal should be on most of these.

LT -1 - 1.5%
ST -.3 - 4%
TPS starts at 10.1 and advances to about 15.2 WOT (I feel like the starting should be lower)
MAF .5 - 1.01
Spark Adv 11-29

Here's another quick question about the data. My o2 doesn't swing from .100 to 850 but goes .130, .450, .800, .500, .130, .450, .800. Is this normal for this scanner model to catch the mid-range or is the o2 sensor malfucntioning?

Also no trouble codes.

93toyrunner2

I removed the port cover, and used sheet metal snips to cut out an oval shape in addition to the port opening. This allowed me to remove the pump cover, and pull it through the opening and cut out area. This is not a weight support area, so I was not too concerned about the hole, other than covering it with some sheet metal and gasket maker. I found this trick on yotatech, and it saved me hours of dropping the tank, etc.

j2the-e

Your tps is bad. Should be 10% or so to 75-85% or so. Also check idl (idle) should say "on" with the throttle closed. I don't understand your maf readings. Not sure what settings you have, I use gram/second and it should be around 2.5-3.5 at idle and 12-15 at 3k(unloaded) or close to those #s. There are many variables. Also check you coolant temp sensor. These engines have 1 sensor for the gauge and 1 for the ecu. Your gauge can be fine but the ecu sees something else. Fuel trim is good, it should be less than 25-30% total. Don't worry about the o2 right now, It switches faster than your scanner can read, a graph is a better way to look at that.

ulysses76

When I drove to work this morning the TPS seem to match the rpms. The max being 38%. Out of load I won't rev the car past 4k but when i get close to that it reads about 37-42%.

My MAF is lbs/min and starts at .75 and runs to about 3 at 3k rpms not under load.

TPS is only $52 at autozone. Its probably worth replacing because my idle hunts between .6 and 1 intermittently. I have an incredibly high idle at cold start 2.2 and it takes about 10 minutes of drive time to lower.

Still waiting on the fuel pump bracket that I think is the cause of lot of these problems.

j2the-e

You said tps was 15.2 WOT. Now its 38% at part throttle? You can watch it with the key on and engine off. No need to rev it up to check it

ulysses76

it was at 15.2 under load. i know my data seems to be all over the place but i dont have the right port to connect my obd to my computer so I cant record and graph data. Most of this is me holding the scan tool while driving then stopping and making notes.

j2the-e

TPS doesn't care about load. To check the tps, just sit in the truck with the key on and engine off. Then go from idle to WOT and watch the numbers. You can also check coolant temp running in park. And check your maf readings running while parked. Idle and at 3k rpm. See if you can change the maf to read in grams/second.

ulysses76

I wanted to post an update. I replaced the fuel pump mount and the gas smell is gone and mpgs are up. Complete pita if done on a residential street. but it still runs rough.

About 2 or 3 weeks ago I hopped out of my car on a cold start to get something out of the back and almost lost my mind when I saw a little puff of white smoke and moisture dripping from the pipe. The smoke only shows up on a cold start and lasts about 3 minutes then gone. It's never that much either, just a little. I ran a compression test, all cylinders hit between high 140s and high 150s. No real big dips there. I checked my oil: clean. I leave my scanner on drives and the ect always runs between 181 and maxes at 185 but mostly sits at 183. Coolant level has never dropped. Siphoned some out, here are the results:

I read that moisture can seep into an exhaust leak and thats what I think I have. I ran seafoam through the booster line and found no smoke under the hood.

Here are the symptoms: runs a little rough all of the time but around 2500 in any gear it feels like it's maxing out and it sounds like its winding really tight. I can push it to 3 but I dont like to. Another important thing I remembered is that when all of this started is that my post cat flange gasket blew and later my post cat 02 sensor had a heater malfunction.

So here's my question. Could my muffler be frakked? Would that cause poor performance? It's definitely louder than it was before. Or does this sound like a manifold leak/crack? What should my next step be?

Thanks for all of the help so far.

j2the-e

-Back to your fuel pressure regulator issue, if you don't have vacuum to it, you should check the metal tube that the vacuum line connects to. they can rust from the inside out like clogged arteries. But that shouldn't cause your symptoms.

-Some smoke and moisture out of the exhaust on a cold start is normal. Condensation can form in the exhaust as it cools off and then burn out when you start it next.

-If you have no codes, and data looks ok, you might have a restricted exhaust. Get a friend to rev it a little and see how much flow is coming out the tail pipe. You can hold a folded up rag or towel over it and feel the pressure (just don't burn yourself) Compare it to a friends 3.4 that runs good. An exhaust leak won't cause these symptoms but this test can also make a leak easier to find

KU_MechE

You did it wrong

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/y...n-port-230029/