Need help fast! Re: gears & locker scenarios & prices

98LimitedCustomized · 12-28-2006, 05:22 PM

Okay I've got a 98 4Runner with 4.10's and am running 32" tall tires. I'm taking off on a LONG road trip and am passing some yards that have 4.30 rear ends with lockers as well as 4.30 fronts as well as just diffs. The rear axle is $460, front is $350, and $150 for just the front diff. I'm hoping I can sell my old axles.

But then I got to thinking... How far off would I be in price from a set of new 4:56's? How about with an ARB or two installed. Thing is, I can do the complete axles, but not gears and or lockers. I'm sluggish now and think my mileage could go back up, and I'd like to move to 33's in the future. Can I get your opinions, experiences, and maybe some $$ figures as well. I'm leaving for this trip in the morning so I need to decide in the next 4 hours!

RustBucket · 12-28-2006, 05:32 PM

It depends mostly on what you want to do with your 4Runner... lots of wheeling? Just occasionally?

Tanto · 12-28-2006, 05:37 PM

If 33"+ tires are in the distant future for you, 4.30 should be fine and you'll save some money while you're at it. Probably enough to put an ARB in the rear if you really wanted to.

<96 Runner> · 12-28-2006, 05:44 PM

Go for the full swap, front and rear. Sure it took some work, but in the end I am very happy I did it. Be prepared for the front swap though, that my friend, is not fun.

You should be able to sell your stock 4.10's for a little cash as well.

Jonathan · 12-28-2006, 09:17 PM

Definetly get the entire rear axle if you can and not just the third member, that way you won't have to modify the axle housing like I did. Pick up the front diff as well, that price is very fair for a 4.30 front. If you can, grab the ECU and all the wires as well or take the easy way out and order a wiring kit from Inchworm.

It'll take a good bit more money to get the gears and ARB's installed, because you have to buy the gears and the lockers then have someone set up the gears and install the lockers, plus the air compressor for the lockers. I wouldn't set up gears and then go back and set up lockers later because it wouldn't be cost effective, seeing that you would have to open everything back up twice to do each install. My rig drives so much better now with the 285's and 4.30's then when I just had the 4.10's.

98LimitedCustomized · 12-29-2006, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonathan

Definetly get the entire rear axle if you can and not just the third member, that way you won't have to modify the axle housing like I did. Pick up the front diff as well, that price is very fair for a 4.30 front. If you can, grab the ECU and all the wires as well or take the easy way out and order a wiring kit from Inchworm.

It'll take a good bit more money to get the gears and ARB's installed, because you have to buy the gears and the lockers then have someone set up the gears and install the lockers, plus the air compressor for the lockers. I wouldn't set up gears and then go back and set up lockers later because it wouldn't be cost effective, seeing that you would have to open everything back up twice to do each install. My rig drives so much better now with the 285's and 4.30's then when I just had the 4.10's.

Thank you! That's kind of what I was thinking, but it's a tough call on the "still in college budget".

KyleT · 12-29-2006, 07:04 AM

I just put in 4.88's and have 295's. it drives a ton better than before with 4.10's

12-28-2006, 05:22 PM	#1 (permalink)
98LimitedCustomized Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Minnesota Posts: 431	Need help fast! Re: gears & locker scenarios & prices Okay I've got a 98 4Runner with 4.10's and am running 32" tall tires. I'm taking off on a LONG road trip and am passing some yards that have 4.30 rear ends with lockers as well as 4.30 fronts as well as just diffs. The rear axle is $460, front is $350, and $150 for just the front diff. I'm hoping I can sell my old axles. But then I got to thinking... How far off would I be in price from a set of new 4:56's? How about with an ARB or two installed. Thing is, I can do the complete axles, but not gears and or lockers. I'm sluggish now and think my mileage could go back up, and I'd like to move to 33's in the future. Can I get your opinions, experiences, and maybe some $$ figures as well. I'm leaving for this trip in the morning so I need to decide in the next 4 hours! __________________ 98 Limited, 3.4 Auto, 4.30's w/E-locker; TJM T-15, Tundra coils/OME lift, 235/85/16 Nokian Hakka 10's, custom 200 amp GM alternator, dual batteries, Brembo/PF brakes, modified Injen intake, Hella 500's, Hayden 678, Taurus Fan, etc

12-28-2006, 05:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
RustBucket Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Cumming, GA Posts: 890	It depends mostly on what you want to do with your 4Runner... lots of wheeling? Just occasionally? __________________ Rust-Free '88 4Runner 22re (Reed Speed & Sport rebuild with Engnbldr components and 268 cam), 4.88's open rear and front TrueTrac. Homemade sliders, TJM front bumper W6000, custom rear bumper, Budbuilt crossmember & skid. Honda GXV270 9hp piston hanging from the back, in case you ever wonder.

12-28-2006, 05:44 PM	#4 (permalink)
<96 Runner> Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Arizona Posts: 10,690	Go for the full swap, front and rear. Sure it took some work, but in the end I am very happy I did it. Be prepared for the front swap though, that my friend, is not fun. You should be able to sell your stock 4.10's for a little cash as well. __________________ Christian <>< My SC'd 4Runner's Profile My YouTube vids

12-28-2006, 09:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
Jonathan Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Greenville, South Carolina Posts: 1,745	Definetly get the entire rear axle if you can and not just the third member, that way you won't have to modify the axle housing like I did. Pick up the front diff as well, that price is very fair for a 4.30 front. If you can, grab the ECU and all the wires as well or take the easy way out and order a wiring kit from Inchworm. It'll take a good bit more money to get the gears and ARB's installed, because you have to buy the gears and the lockers then have someone set up the gears and install the lockers, plus the air compressor for the lockers. I wouldn't set up gears and then go back and set up lockers later because it wouldn't be cost effective, seeing that you would have to open everything back up twice to do each install. My rig drives so much better now with the 285's and 4.30's then when I just had the 4.10's. __________________ 1996 Black 4Runner V6 5 speed 4X4\| Retrofitted E-Locker\| SAW's\| LC coils and Doetschtech shocks\| ATS arms \| 285 Goodyear MTR's\|TJM T-15 With Warn M8000\|Retrofitted Toyota Hood Scoop\| Stubbs Sliders\|Bushwacker Extend-A-Fender Flares\| Extended rear diff breather\| Uniden 510XL CB w/ 4 Ft. Firestik II Antenna\|Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler\|Black headlights and corners\| More to come... 2007 VW GTI 6 Speed Last edited by Jonathan : 12-28-2006 at 09:24 PM.

12-29-2006, 07:04 AM	#7 (permalink)
KyleT Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS Posts: 1,092	I just put in 4.88's and have 295's. it drives a ton better than before with 4.10's __________________ - Kyle Former Owner of - 1996 Sunfire Red Metallic 4Runner Limited updated 10/31/06 OEM/TRD Lift Kit #1 from Sonoran Steel with 1 Top-out spacer - Lexus GX470 rims - 295/70r17 Nitto Terra Grapplers Yukon 4.88's, E-Locked Rear, Waiting to blow up front diff #2

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