midiwall

Christian's got my back.

Thanks man!

MTL_4runner

If you really want to make alot of power I might wait and see how these new turbo setups do because intercooling is the key to making significantly more power than with a roots type blower. If you want a quick and dirty bolt on, then go the TRD S/C with the fuel upgrades.

TRDOLMAN

There are a few things you MUST consider that have not been mentioned. One is drivability. You can make as much HP as you want but unless you are building a race vehicle, I think you should consider that there is a point to where your engine becomes a pain in the ass to drive around town. You don't want a setup that you have to tweak every other day in order to keep it tuned and running right. Having to work on your setup every day gets old fast!

You have to consider the whole driveline before you make a decision. There definately is a point you cross where you start grenading drive line parts such as clutch, ring and pinion, axles, and transmission. The engine internals might be strong enough to take 500 HP but if you can't dependably get that power to the ground without trashing driveline parts, it's worthless.

Dependability should be high on your priority list. I like to build things ONCE then have fun with them. You don't want to build a system that is so complicated and sensative that you have to work on it all the time and not have any fun. More than once some of my friends have said "Damn, I wish I would have left it stock!"

My truck makes a little over 300 HP at the wheels that, if you figure a 20% drivetrain loss, is about 380 HP at the crankshaft. I finished "tweaking" it in July of 2005 and haven't touched it since. I get almost 22 MPG on the highway. I have absolutely NO "issues" with the truck. I have hammered the hell out of it during testing with at least 50 dyno runs and at least 10 passes down the strip. WE won't even count all the "ricers" I have done battle with on the street. So far not one failure in the driveline. You can't tell the truck is modded until you nail the throttle. My wife drives the truck with no problem at all. Another plus is that my blower, fuel system, and headers are all CARB legal.

I realize that if I had gone with a turbo system, I would have gotten a lot more HP out of the engine. Sometimes more is not always better.

I did a lot of research and studying before I started my project and I would recommend you do the same. I have a LOT of fun with my truck. I hope when you decide on and build your forced induction setup that you do to.

halcyon0

Thanks for all the great info guys! I really want good reliability and drivability. Something I can drive everyday and not worry about busting something! I think I will keep it mild and go with the motor swap and the TRD SC with URD's fuel system upgrades... I may consider the water injection system some time down the road. Depends on how much my bank account screams!

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

I would love to know the limits of the 3.4. If this motor is built anything like my 7M-GTE, there's lots of room for power without fear of mechanical failure.

My 430 hp Supra is going up for sale this month, so I see engine modifications in my 4Runner's future. Regardless of which route I go (supercharger or turbo) I'll need a $900 fuel system upgrade. I can drop $2k on the TRD SC or hopefully buy a set of exhaust manifolds and fabricate an adapter to run the Supra CT26 turbo I have sitting at my house. I much prefer the feel (and sound) of a turbo over a supercharger setup. The 3.4 will spool the CT26 even faster than my 3.0 Supra and it pulls full boost by 2200 RPMs.

TRDOLMAN

This guy has lower compression pistons and Crower rods but the rest of the internals are stock. Click on the Tacoma Dyno link to see his 800 RWHP dyno run:

http://www.psiracing.com/videos.html

If you notice, the bed of the truck is loaded down with large truck tires and he is still spinning his tires on the dyno!!

midiwall

{holy bajeezus!}

So, a quick sidetrack... I always figured that you want to increase compression in order to increase power (since you'd get a bigger bang). What's the theory behind dropping compression? More room for more mixture?

DavidA

I honestly believe that the 3.4 is capable of the same types of HP gains that they got out of the Supra motors. Toyota has always overbuilt and undertuned their motors for reliability. I think that the latest efforts by the import tuning community are just now starting to see what it can do. I bet we see a close to a 1000hp 3.4 one of these days. We have seen some twin turbo setups on the 3.4 that have not been dyno'ed. Can't wait to see where this all goes.

TRDOLMAN

I don't know the proper terms to explain it properly but if you lower the compression you can up the boost pressure giving you more actual compression (wrong terms but I don't know the right ones). Lowering the compression lets you add more boost without increasing the detonation factor which lets you add in more timing. I'm sure one of the "boost gurus" will chime in and supply the right terms.

midiwall

Ahh.. okay. So... yeah, that makes sense. cool.

Thanks Dave!

halcyon0

I know that the guys over at URD have built a 800hp truck with twin turbochargers. That will put a grin on your face and make your bank account scream for mercy!

midiwall

Check message #13 & 14 in this very thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...5&postcount=13
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...3&postcount=14

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

:drool: