Ironmike4x4

I searched... I am PURPOSELY trying to tighten my steering on my 3rd gen 4Runner, but how do I go about doing this? The reason is for better "road feel" on the highway or interstates. I do not mind having a tougher time trying to park or turn while driving slow so keep that in mind. Somone suggested getting rid of the power steering belt but I am very weary about that. I was also thinking of maybe going with a bigger pulley at the ps pump and YES I do realize I will lose a little bit of engine power and the pressure. My theory is to lower the pressure by putting on a bigger pulley and longer belt will lower the pressure and increasing the resistance. Will this work or is there any other suggestions? I don't want to convert over to integral steering either so I can't just tighten the steering box.

MTL_4runner

Is this an issue with your steering rack or from sloppy bushings?
Maybe you can elaborate further on what your issue is.

ebelen1

Could it be an alignment issue? Only reason I ask is that I use to have a lot of "play" at higher speeds and this went away partially w/ an alignment. It only went away partially b/c I don't think I'm perfectly aligned yet and I know my tires need road-force balancing as they have a minor shake between 55-65 mph. Just a thought.

MudMonkey

I think putting on a larger pulley will over drive the pump making it easier to steer. You should put a smaller pulley on to get the opposite effect, and gain 1-2 horses.AFAIK.

Flamedx4

None of that is a good idea.

Removing the power steering belt (if it were a separate belt) would certainly increase the steering effort - try it! You will not like it. But, it won't feel much different on the highway. Power steering has a dead-band in the center - driving straight down the freeway there is no boost. So you still don't accomplish what you want.

Altering the speed of the pump won't do what you want. Power steering gears work on flow, not pressure. Either there is enough flow for it to operate, or not. You won't get less "boost" with lower flow or pressure. It will be 'normal,' down to the point where it becomes 'nothing.' Except that at the low end it will refuse to give you boost when you need it most, at idle in a tight situation.

By the way, before someone thinks of it - the steering stabilizer isn't the answer either. Contrary to popular myth - that doesn't do anything to make it steer straight, it only serves to damp sudden jerks caused by bumps and stuff.

Oh, and if you had a conventional steering box and "just tightened it" you would damage it completely in a few hundred miles. Steering gears should not be "tight," there is a very precise preload required - too little and the gear lash is wide and feels loose, too much and it drags, damaging the gear.

If you are having a tracking issue while on the highway, you need an alignment, and/or replace worn parts in your front suspension and steering.

snap-on

smaller stearing wheel?

longer pitnam arm?

Flamedx4

get some new ball joints that have never been lubed,and don't lube em...

ebelen1

Flamed, good advice. I'd like to add that I looked into the steering stabilizer for the 3rd gens (when my alignment was off) and was told we don't have one, at least one that can be replaced.

BajaRunner

Try to figure out if your looseness is coming from the steering gear up (your actual steering wheel linkage), or is it coming from the rack and pinion or steering gear.

I have noticed at of steering wheel play lately, and I know it is most likely from the actual steering wheel column...

Flamedx4

ebelen1 - Never seen a steering damper with r&p, although on the trail it could still be very usefull in extending rack life. All a steering stabilizer is, is a shock absorber. In fact, thats what they ARE - a non-pressurized hydraulic shock - as low tech as it gets. They cannot keep the wheels centered, and they cannot affect your steering or handling at all, any more than your shocks keep your suspension from moving.

Now there IS a few devices on the market that DO that, but none small enough for Yotas that I know of. Google SteerSafe or SafetyPlus (in the various possible spellings) These are centering devices, common on cheap motorhomes that don't drive well, but do double duty as safety devices... Also Howard Steering, which is a real high tech version.


SC - your steering play is most likely mostly from 6" of lift and bigger tires. Even if everything is tight and sweet, there is quite a bit of "amplification" in that setup you have.

PO2SIMS

U Guys are not really answering his biggest question. He is not saying his steering feels loose, but that he wants it to feel more pressure in the wheel when turning. Something no one mentioned is CASTER. Adjust one way and steering gets loose, adjust the other way and steering gets stiffer. I forget which positive or negative affects, but adjust one way and the tires try to steer off the ground, and adjust the other and the tires try to steer into the ground. After installing my lift the caster was adjusted to get camber in spec, and now my steering is slightly loser. Of course u would still want to keep everything in spec, just my thoughts.

marko3xl3

Wouldn't that wear down the tires more? I guess doing an alignment would help in case they do adjust it for the caster to go the stiffer way, if you know what I mean.

As far as I understand, his steering is FINE, not loose, he just wants it tighter for more feel while driving.

And since Flamed professionally explained why messin' with the PS and everything isn't a good idea I dunno man. Weird request for sure tho.

Flamedx4

Yep, more caster could increase the "centered" feel when tracking straight.
That's one of the reasons I suggested alignment.
Another is that the toe setting could be off, which can cause a very light, almost twitchy feel. Too far off and it can cause it to refuse to track straight. Too much in or out won't work, and can even prmaturely destroy the tires though, so toe can't be used to increase the steering effort when driving straight, but making sure it is correct is important.

One thing many don't realise is that wider tires (and wheels) will amplify road feedback - cause more tendency to follow the crown or the ruts in the pavement. Bias ply tires increase this by an enormous amount. Add lift and the additional flex (frame, brackets, everything) amplifies it even more. Steering arms, tie rods, drag links etc not in the proper plane cause bumpsteer, even if minor. Doesn't take but a little to become annoying. Feels less solid, less "on center" feel, more dartiness. We usually learn to live with it... A bit more caster than spec can help. You might sacrifice a bit of tire wear, but it shouldn't matter too much unless you go way the heck out of spec. With really wide tires going closer to zero camber might help too on vehicles that spec a lot of \../ in the camber like most yotas (at least up to 95.)

Ironmike4x4

I've done my own alignment twice after I left and both times were almost dead on and my prealignment inspections showed no other indications of wear and tear. I checked the bushings and they aren't showing wear or cracks on them. I thought myself about adjusting the caster but I'd rather keep them within the specs everytime possible. I borrowed a friend of mine's 4Runner his is an '02 and everything is stock, his felt the same way as mine did on the interstate so I'm sure it's a normal condition. All I'm trying to do is create a much more "road feel" for my driving on the hwys. I may try and see about doing an variable electronic steering system (VESS) from the new Chevy Cobalts or something similar if possible *back to the drawing board* Thanks anyways guys.