yota5VZFE

Hi, I searched and I found lots of threads regarding the transmission oil change, flush out 100% of the old fluid from the tranny using machines, etc. and a lot of confusion there. What do you guys do to make life easier for tranny oil change if you don't have the machines or if you want to do it yourself ? I know doing oil change, differential oil change, and coolant change, those are pretty straight forward. You just drain the old fluid out and then refill with new fluid. As for the transmission, it is not the same. When you drain the old fluid and refill with new fluid for the tranny, you are only replacing about 3 quarts with new fluid, there are about 13 quarts of old fluid (if I am correct) still sitting in the torque converter and the rest of the tranny system. What do you guys usually do in tranny oil change ? do you just drain and refill about 3 quarts of new fluids every 15K or you would do a complete 100% fluid exchange every 30K with flushing machine ? also, Toyota says that there is no filter in the transmission on the 3rd Gen., but Gadget says there is a filter. Do you guys actually replace with new transmission filter or you don't ? This transmission oil change got me confused. thank you for your input

ebelen1

My understanding is that there is no filter (I was wrong as Jaime has pointed out. There is a filter, just not one that you replace.), just magnets in the pan that require cleaning. There is a thread here on how to do a transmission flush the old fashioned way but I searched and I can't find it. MTL4runner and Nrgetic are two people that come to mind that really understand ATF and related maintenance.

You can always go to a shop that has a machine but I'm sure you know this. Good luck.

MTL_4runner

Ok, there are a few ways to go about this. First, you can either do a fluid change or a fluid flush. The fluid change is similar to a typical oil change where you just unbolt the filler plug, drain and refill (which only does 3-4 quarts max). The other is a fluid flush which requires a machine or can be done at home using the stock cooler lines as flush/fill lines (which will change all the fluid, all 15 quarts). I prefer to to just change the fluid every 10-15k and then I drop the pan every 45-50k to clean the filter/screen. If you only want to do it every 45-50k then go the flush route.

To answer the question, yes there is a filter screen, but filter is serviceable/cleanable so no need to replace it (which is probably why the dealer guys said there was none (this is not a part they usually even carry). I usually just clean it with brake cleaner when I drop the pan (you should clean the magnets in the pan too).

Here is what it looks like:

yota5VZFE

The owner's manual says that if I just perform a "drain and refill" on the tranny, it's 2.1 quarts. Is that a typo ? you said about 3 to 4 quarts and I heard most people said about 3 quarts. I want to make sure I will buy enough transmission oil to do the drain and refill.

ebelen1

The manual my mechanic had said the same. However, after dropping the pan and clearing the cooler, I added about 4 quarts of ATF. I would rather have more than less.

shazaam

Aamco has a special going on right now $60 for a power flush

mach4

For what it's worth, the machine flush guys claim the screen filter is automatically cleaned of metal particles and other gunk with the flush itself.

I called several places local to me, including the stealer, and no one drops the pan and cleans the filter. This is the method preferred by Gadget.

So I will do the flush every 45k-50k miles where the rig pump does the work, and let my local shop do the flush. Sounds pretty messy to attempt at home.

BTW - I will be using Amsoil ATF.

MTL_4runner

If you look how the screen is set up you can see that what the machine flush guys are saying is BS (even if what they say was true, you can read below from Gadget himself why that would be very bad). A flush is by far the best way to bring a neglected or severe duty (ie if you drive it like you stole it) vehicle's tranny back up to snuff. After that you can get away with a drain and fill every 2-3 oil changes (again unless your vehicle is in the severe duty category). A tranny cooler can also help to greatly reduce tranny temps and prevent burning fluid so this should definately be added as well as a preventative measure.

From Gadget's site (on cooler line flush which supposedly cleans the filter):
"The other thing I do not like about this type of flush is that they sell the supposed benefit that they do not have to drop the pan and change the filter like that is a benefit. Dropping the pan is very important. Looking in the pan is a fantastic diagnostic tool that can tell you if something is going wrong in your transmission. Now lets say some crud is flushed out of the trans with this flush method. Where does it go? It can go into the pan, and then sucked up into the filter that may clog the filter causing the pump to starve for fluid and a pressure loss. On the engine the filter is after the pump and if the filter gets clogged there is a bypass valve that opens and oil bypass the clogged filter so the engine is still supplied with oil. Unlike the engine oil pump and filter the filter is on the intake side of the pump. If it gets clogged, that is it, it is clogged and stuff does not get lubricated and the clutches do not get enough clamping pressure and they slip and burn up. In just a faction of a second you just bought a new transmission if the filter clogs."

Gadget does go on to say on his site that the filter should always be replaced but I absolutely disagree with him there (which I rarely do). The screen/filter is a very fine metal mesh which can be reused (after a thorough cleaning) many times without needing replacement. Bottom line is you should ALWAYS drop the pan about every 50k to clean the filter and ensure all is well with your transmission.

NESW20

the way i prefer to do a flush is to put cleaner in, drive it, change the filter, then perform the flush with a flush machine.

-Mike

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

Jamie,

There was a thread here about an online manual for 1997-2000 Toyota trucks. In that manual, it says that whenever you remove the pan, you need to realign (after cleaning) the magnets in some specified location (dimensions were given). Is that true? How difficult is it to do it?

Thanks.

MTL_4runner

The magnets do need to be in a certain location in the pan but it really isn't that big of a deal because there are indents in the pan to show you where they go. It can be a pain to get all the metal shavings off of them during a good cleaning but cleaning the magnets are the simple part of dropping the pan.

Here are the magnets in the pan:

bamachem

flush it yourself. i did. it was easy.

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/ATF_and_F...Procedures.pdf

gohawks

http://aarc.epnet.com/application/93...MENDATIONS.htm

That is a link that should get you to an online service manual. I can't get to the exact page, so you will have to click on the table on contents to go to the page relating to transmission service.

It has information related to magnent placement.

MTL_4runner

Nice link, that is almost a full FSM document (too bad it is in Java so you can't link to it).
I am not sure which tranny it refers to since I have only seen the 4 magnet pan mentioned (where indents are in pan).

Anyone care to comment on this?
Which trannys require magnet precision?

dirtypuke

i went to napa the other day and asked about a tranny filter and pan gasket and they sell the kit for $20. so why not drain your pan and install a new filter? is there any other way to drain all of the fluid, other that a flush?

MTL_4runner

No, a flush is the only way to remove all the fluid.

I have seen several kits for the fliter and none had a filter as well built as the OEM version. I was ready to change my filter too the first time I pulled the pan (I had kits from Napa, Checker and Autozone since they all looked slightly different), but after comparing the two, it seemed a waste to burn $20 for a fliter that could easily be cleaned and reused (the entire filter is metal, both the body and the screen). I have already reused the same filter 3 times after cleaning (about every 50k) with absolutely no issues.

dirtypuke

awsome save me beer money.

mach4

Nice procedure.
After reading thru it, I might just tackle the flush myself.
The problem I was having was finding a shop that did the Gadget preferred flush so I was ready to settle on the flush without dropping the pan.

Anyone have a good cleaning procedure once the pan is off?
It sounds like rags shouldn't be used?
What seals are required to be replaced?