kevin444

After dealing with fedex which lost my package for 1.5 weeks it finally came in this morning.

10-am woke up heard fedex dropped off the damn fan.
12-pm tackling taking off clutch assembly
2-pm fan installed
4-pm put hoses back on
4:30pm leak on lower radiator hose
6-pm fan not operational with control box.
11pm still leaking. and went to sleep.

So basically im just having probelms with the F C UKin thermostat bulbs thing in the inlet of the radiator and +12v hookups with the controller. The fans work because i just tested them directly to the battery and they work. But as far as with the controller i dont know.. I have no clue if the controller is bad or its just miswired. As far as for the leaks it seems impossible to actually have it installed withOUT causing leaks. I tried a s h i t load of electrical tape and with the rubber gasket and it still freakin leaks. i HAVE NO SANE IDEA ON WHAT TO DO.. iM DOWN TO 1/2 LEFT OF BRAND NEW COOLANT THAT COSTED ME $16 THATS $8 LOSSED FROM THE STUPID LEAKS...


- HOW DO YOU GUYS WIRE THIS DAMN THING UP?
- HOW DO YOU GUYS PUT THE DAMN THERMO SENDSING BULB PROPERLY?
- wheres the ignition +12v acc connection in a 2000 4runner?

mikedog

From what I can recall on mine, one wire goes to 12V battery power, one wire goes to 12V switched ignition power and the other wire goes to negative ground. Of course, this is with a FAL 165, but I believe the wiring should be basically the same.

Do you have additional connectors on the controller for the manual fan switch option? Mine does. Maybe you're accidentally connecting one the 12V leads (ignition or battery) to one of the manual fan switch connectors on the controller?

rimpainter.com

Use two hose clamps on the bottom rad hose, strategically placed over that triangular grommet thing they provide (to allow the thermo line to run through). 2 clamps will solve your problem.

How are you testing operation? Are you bringing the vehicle up to operating temp with the control box turned all the way down to (-)?

midiwall

A couple of us around here (myself included) cheated and just stuffed the thermostat bulb in-between the fins of the radiator. I never had to pull the hose at all.

It works fine... the thermostat won't see the actual temp of the coolant, but it's all relative. There's plenty of adjustment room for you to set it at whatever temp it's reading when you get to "that spot" on the gauge in your dash.


For the ACC line, I cheated (again!) and ran a line out from under the dash. I couldn't find a spot under the hood.

HaveBlue

As Christian said earlier, use TWO hose clamps to stop the leak. Also, zip tie or tape all your wires together and then cover them in split loom. They tend to come apart from the control box.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

This is how I had mine wired up when I ran one:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#FanControl

00Runner

I just followed the instructions that came with mine and everything works fine. I don't have it hooked to the AC or a source that is only powered when the truck is on so the wiring is pretty simple. Two wires to the battery and one to ground and that's it. I have the bulb in the lower radiator hose and had two clamps just in case, but one was enough and I haven't had any leaks.

In regards to the controller unit, it is pretty simple to disasemble and see how it works. I had to disassemble mine once because it got so caked with sand at Pismo that the contacts weren't contacting and the fan wouldn't turn on. I would take yours apart and make sure that everything looks like it is functioning properly.

kevin444

It's 11/26/04 7:16pm as of now the fan works. I found out the controller box is retarded so i asked my neighbor to buy me one to do the job that the controller should do but cant. Yet i still have leaks. SOo tmrw morning im going to dissassemble this POS and put back the fcucking clutch fan. My whole idea on the clutch fan has failed taurus and flex a lite.. Soo yeah.. If you want whats left of it. I'll sell it to you for $50 just get it out of my freakin sight. i wasted too much money and i bought 2 total of new bottles of coolant!!!!

mikedog

Just call corporate and them send you a new controller. There should be 1-year warranty on all fan components.

My old controller flaked out after about 8-months. I called Flexalite and they promptly shipped me a new one next-day-air. The new controller has been working fine for nearly 2-years now.

rimpainter.com

I agree, don't give up so easy Kevin. FLX corporate is pretty cool. You will be happy once you get them running. Give them a call.

Cebby

I've got the same setup...

kevin444

Well been quite busy but i was done on the morning of thanksgiving.

rimpainter.com

Hmmm, I have always ran the thermoprobe to the lower rad pipe...

midiwall

Yeah, since that's the inlet to the radiator on these engines. But hmmm... It may be "fine" in the same way that the system works with the bulb just stuffed in the fins. Since you only really care about the temperature difference (versus the actual temp) then it should be okay.


I know you really fought the fight on this one Kevin, but I dunno about the box being mounted right there. It may end up getting in the way if you have to get into the engine bay for anything. I have mine mounted up high to the left (as you face the engine) of the top hose.

Also, watch that the power wiring there doesn't get hung up in the alternator or that belt.

Kudos to sticking with it though!

kevin444

Cleaned up the wiring and rigged up a switch to the dash area. Here's some pics of the wiring job.

midiwall

k3wl!

Congrats Kevin!

AznSky

engine bay too clean!!!! -_- puk guy

Gadget

Man, that is not a very good wiring job at all. Please neaten that up and be sure to watch your temp gauge like a hawk.

Here is my wiring job:

http://gadgetonline.com/fan.htm

Better yet loose that junky fan controller and upgrade to the newer variable speed controller. Nothing gets stuck in the hose.

Gadget

00Runner

Lets see some pics of the switch you put in the cab.

kevin444

NO WAY!!??!!