Engine died, no power, ?electrical?
#1
Engine died, no power, ?electrical?
My 4runner wouldn't start (3 weeks ago), so I jumped it and I took it to Autozone to test the battery and alternator. Everything checked out ok but I decided to replace the battery anyway. The car has been starting well up until today. The car has also been idling rough and a check engine light (code 71-emissions rich/lean mixture) has been on for months. I haven't done anything about this since it California only, yet I suspect its causing the it to idle rough. I started the car to let it warm up and all of a sudden... it died, no lights, no power, no nothing. I got it jumped and as soon as I put it in gear it stalled again and lost all power. I have been unable to move it without having it stall. My car is still in the parking lot at work since I can't seem to get it started or keep it running. Please help !!!!
#4
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is it possible that the rough idle and the engine not starting are 2 separate things? Guys?
How'd the idle sound before you put it in gear? Strong?
This may sound like a dumb question (but I know this from experience :pat: ) are your battery cables on tight?
How'd the idle sound before you put it in gear? Strong?
This may sound like a dumb question (but I know this from experience :pat: ) are your battery cables on tight?
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Mooresville (Lake Norman) NC
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check your grounds and make sure you have you clamps on the battery terminal as tight as you can get them. Pull the fuse that says EFI and leave it out for 15 minutes, should reset computer codes. If light reappears, check your exaust pipe and headers. Also check your air filter or intake tube for dirt or mud.
#6
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: portland oregon
Posts: 705
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mine was the starter/alternator harness where battery acid ate it away, why i use gell cell bateries now.
but it could be the maf, or the crank pulley, or a timing belt, or :pat:
but it could be the maf, or the crank pulley, or a timing belt, or :pat:
#7
Weirdest thing....We left the car and took the battery home to test it and it was fully charged. Today, we put the battery back in the car and I had power and the engine cracked over like no problem. We were going to trace the electrical starting from the battery but now its working. I am worried about when this intermittent problem might strike again. Thanks for your suggestions. I will be checking the connection to starter/alternator. Is there a trick to pulling out the EFI fuse? I had wanted to do it earlier but did not want to force anything. The battery cables are tight and clean, I changed the ground connection a couple of weeks ago. The car still idles rough yet it doesn't stall anymore when I put it into gear. Last night, the car sould shut off as soon as you started to let out the clutch. The darn thing also pops out of first all the time
I will also look into the MAF (how will I now if its working properly)
Could a starter relay cause this? I wonder if I have a loose ground connection somewhere that could be causing an open circuit. The 4runner is running now and I am afraid to drive it anywhere and become stranded. Thanks guys.
I will also look into the MAF (how will I now if its working properly)
Could a starter relay cause this? I wonder if I have a loose ground connection somewhere that could be causing an open circuit. The 4runner is running now and I am afraid to drive it anywhere and become stranded. Thanks guys.
Trending Topics
#9
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by FrustratedJane
Is there a trick to pulling out the EFI fuse? I had wanted to do it earlier but did not want to force anything.
Is there a trick to pulling out the EFI fuse? I had wanted to do it earlier but did not want to force anything.
I dunno if yours has the convenient tweezer thingy but when I've encountered problems in the past a nice set of needle nose pliers worked just fine
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It sounds like the battery is being drained or isn't getting charged by the alternator (which has a built-in regulator.
Sometimes it's as simple as cleaning the positive battery post.
It's a good idea to clean the negative as well.
WARNING: The acid from the battery (sulphuric) will eat through your clothing and will burn your skin.
Recommend Backing Soda and Water solution if the terminal is highly corroded.
Then a battery post cleaner or smal wire brush to clean the post so they're shiny. Clean the termina as well.
A Battery Brush works best for both and usually be picked up at a Wal-Mart for less than $5.
- Good Luck
Sometimes it's as simple as cleaning the positive battery post.
It's a good idea to clean the negative as well.
WARNING: The acid from the battery (sulphuric) will eat through your clothing and will burn your skin.
Recommend Backing Soda and Water solution if the terminal is highly corroded.
Then a battery post cleaner or smal wire brush to clean the post so they're shiny. Clean the termina as well.
A Battery Brush works best for both and usually be picked up at a Wal-Mart for less than $5.
- Good Luck
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It sounds like the battery is being drained or isn't getting charged by the alternator (which has a built-in regulator.
Sometimes it's as simple as cleaning the positive battery post.
It's a good idea to clean the negative as well.
WARNING: The acid from the battery (sulphuric) will eat through your clothing and will burn your skin.
Recommend Backing Soda and Water solution if the terminal is highly corroded.
Then a battery post cleaner or smal wire brush to clean the post so they're shiny. Clean the termina as well.
A Battery Brush works best for both and usually be picked up at a Wal-Mart for less than $5.
- Good Luck
Sometimes it's as simple as cleaning the positive battery post.
It's a good idea to clean the negative as well.
WARNING: The acid from the battery (sulphuric) will eat through your clothing and will burn your skin.
Recommend Backing Soda and Water solution if the terminal is highly corroded.
Then a battery post cleaner or smal wire brush to clean the post so they're shiny. Clean the termina as well.
A Battery Brush works best for both and usually be picked up at a Wal-Mart for less than $5.
- Good Luck
#12
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by FrustratedJane
The darn thing also pops out of first all the time
The darn thing also pops out of first all the time
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ps+out+of+gear
Also it sound like your alternator is bad. I had an S-10 with a bad alternator that I could jump but as soon as you put a load on the engine (such as putting it in gear or turning on any electronics) it would die. Good luck with fixing it.
#13
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to take out my alternator this weekend and have it checked. I had it checked at autozone while it was in the car and they said it was fine. The battery terminals and clamps have been clean and they're tight.
Thanks for the link to the shift lever seat and bushing. Sounds like something that I will be able to do and it will save me from a lot of grief.
My friends tell my that my car is possessed.
Thanks for the link to the shift lever seat and bushing. Sounds like something that I will be able to do and it will save me from a lot of grief.
My friends tell my that my car is possessed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
FS[SouthEast]: Mercury Villager Fan & DCC Fan Controller
coryc85
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
6
09-09-2015 06:24 AM