Cyl. #2 Misfire major headache
#1
Cyl. #2 Misfire major headache
Alright to begin this journey....I have a 99 tacoma 3.4 with 135K on it 4wd xtended cab. I had a remote start installed on it then it all came apart.... From a cold start it runs great, I can run it as long as I want to no miss....Turn it off after warmup for 20 or more minutes and then restart.. It misses like crazy. Only cyl. 2. I have so far tried, moving coil packs around and plugs, miss did not move. Tried fuel system cleaner and sea foam thru pcv hose, only throttle response inproved.. Replace all spark plugs with ngk's, no improvement... Had compression test done on all cylinders. All held around 165 give or take. Had yota dealer check fuel system they say the injectors pattern fine no clog, I haven't checked the ohms on it yet though. never can trust those guys completely....original spark wires, going to replace soon.Having shop look at their wiring of remote start wed, maybe a grounded wire or open... My question is could that remote start cause the miss after warm up or am I crazy..... I have looked everywhere so far no problems similar to mine.... any help would be appreciated
#2
Cylinder #2 has a wire going to it(should be stamped #5,I believe)..I would try a wire set...
I would not think the remote start would have anything to do with only one cylinder missing...
I would not think the remote start would have anything to do with only one cylinder missing...
Last edited by 97ltd4x4; 04-07-2009 at 03:34 PM.
#3
Contributing Member
In my experiences in the shop its usually an injector. I would first put a noid light to the injector itself and see if it's getting the signal to the injector itself. If no signal is present then you have a wiring or ECU failure. If signal is present then most likely an injector. Don't take my word for it, I'm just going by my experiences with GM but from a carryover it's what I would check for.
#4
Problem fixed!!! Leaky injector was the problem.... I have another question though..... Running it with a bad miss, can it put it out of time.... I now notice a shake at idle, almost like a miss....and exhaust is sounding out of rythym.
#5
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There are basically two things that could result from unburnt fuel down the exhaust. Pretty much, it could foul out your plug for that cylinder- But the plug should clean itself up with a good long drive. Or damage to your catalytic converter or o2 sensor could happen.
How long was the vehicle driven like this?
How long was the vehicle driven like this?
#6
Registered User
I would honestly say to seafoam it again and see if that helps.
What are your rpms at idle? and what wires do you have and have you
checked their resistance?
also foam the tank
watch the video and follow their instructions see what happens OK maybe not the crank case
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...90865726229173
What are your rpms at idle? and what wires do you have and have you
checked their resistance?
also foam the tank
watch the video and follow their instructions see what happens OK maybe not the crank case
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...90865726229173
Last edited by eddieleephd; 04-21-2009 at 02:44 PM.
#7
It was driven with the bad injector for about two weeks, it was hard to find a day off with the weather being good enough to work on it.....no garage. My rpms at warm idle are right at 600 to 700, with sometimes at 500 to 550. I got new bosch spark plug wires, and have replaced the plugs just after it first started to miss, I am going to seafoam again today.... will get back with news
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#8
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Oh yeah I had an issue once with the coil pack on one of my cyl.s!
the issue I found was that the spring in the tube was compressed and
there for not contacting the plug! I ended up pulling the spring out and stretching
it, then I put some dielectric grease and works fine since!
Forgot to mention this earlier because it did not seem to apply.
just to say it it was kinda a pita to get it back in the tube in the right way
it kinda locks in at the top and I had to use some thing like a coat hanger
to put in the middle of the spring and catch one side of it to push it back
in to the locking position "gotta love the redneck tool box"
Once in the locking position dielectric and reinstall.
"redneck tool box: bailing wire, duct tape and a couple of coat hangers"
don't think I am missing much
the issue I found was that the spring in the tube was compressed and
there for not contacting the plug! I ended up pulling the spring out and stretching
it, then I put some dielectric grease and works fine since!
Forgot to mention this earlier because it did not seem to apply.
just to say it it was kinda a pita to get it back in the tube in the right way
it kinda locks in at the top and I had to use some thing like a coat hanger
to put in the middle of the spring and catch one side of it to push it back
in to the locking position "gotta love the redneck tool box"
Once in the locking position dielectric and reinstall.
"redneck tool box: bailing wire, duct tape and a couple of coat hangers"
don't think I am missing much
#10
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I remember reading that 5VZ engines run 2 different sets of spark plugs on both sides of the bank. Did you replace all the spark plugs with the same kind? That probably wouldn't be helping your situation
Here's the link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/e...h-bank-177019/
Here's the link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/e...h-bank-177019/
#11
Registered User
I remember reading that 5VZ engines run 2 different sets of spark plugs on both sides of the bank. Did you replace all the spark plugs with the same kind? That probably wouldn't be helping your situation
Here's the link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/e...h-bank-177019/
Here's the link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/e...h-bank-177019/
and totally satisfied!
There is really is no need to run two different types of plugs as long as you run either NGK or DENSO designed for the reach and threads!
Last edited by eddieleephd; 04-22-2009 at 06:04 PM.
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