JLRSR5

I know there are ton of threads out there about CV Joints. But i'm just trying to get a consensus. I have not yet lifted my 99 runner yet. The lift is almost on the way i'm deciding inbetween a toytech 3inch coils front and back or going with LC Coils rear and Tundra Coils front. I"m deciding on that now but my question is this.

What is the best thing possible to do to avoid CV joint trouble or at least keep it at a minimun. Longer travel Inner CV boots?? Diff drop, or what? Just trying to see what works the BEST for those of you out there who have 3-4 inch lifts and are running 33's on your rig? Thanks.

JLRSR5

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kmcaprice14

diff drop and carry a spare CV with you at all times. or do a manual hub conversion

scuba

My personal vote is OME 881's front, Idk about the rear for your coiled junk..

Here's my taco with + - 3" of lift..


EDIT: Diff drops arent worth a damn dont buy one..


And here are my CV angles..
Right
Left
The fins on the boots dont rub, And I do have manual hubs so I can lift it however much I wanted if I felt like it..

But yeah, My vote is OME all the way around..

JLRSR5

How much does it normally cost or at least an average to do a manual hub conversion??

scuba

Shoooot, On these things, ALOT, There was a recent thread about it, I think you have to buy the whole spindle and whatnot from a taco..And if you have abs well there goes that because no tacos w/ manual hubs ever had abs..

I think Downey offroad sells a kit, But its hella expensive..

My taco came stock with them...

KrashDH

It would have an effect though once you're hubs are engaged correct? So when engaged they will wear, but just slower than hubs w/ push button 4WD because they aren't always turning? If this was true getting a 6" lift wouldn't matter when the hubs are free but once hubs locked this is where the bad angle would/could do some damage?

scuba

Exactly, And I guess I should revise my first post, I should have said " I can lift my truck via the struts as much as I want because the cv's arent always turning, ALTHOUGH, Any strut lift over 3" will probably bind the CV's anyway, so 4x would be usesless

Ok, 6" lifts are drop brackets (well except for SAC's but were talking IFS), They move the whole suspension downward IE : Control arms, Rack and pinion, differential and CV shafts, Thus, A 6" lift kit (skyjacker or what have you), Will not harm cv's, If anything it will keep them at stock angles..Just dropped 6".. Make sense..

Although, You shouldnt get a DB lift, They dont do jack squat for ground clearance..

This is my buddies truck with a 6" DB lift on 35" tires..


Move your computer screen closer to your eyes and you can see the CV's are at basically stock height, Just dropped..

End random repeat of myself...

Does that all make sense..?

KrashDH

Yeah I understand that DB lifts won't get you xtra ground clearance. I guess I was just re-emphasizing the potential damage a largerlift could have if there were no drop brackets, which, is why they are made.

Bighead

Sonoran Steel: Do it yourself Tacoma Manual Hub Swap to a 1996-2002 4Runner

JLRSR5

Thanks for the info!