Crankshaft pulley bolt COMES OFF!!
11-07-2010, 09:06 PM
#62
OK, she's all finished! I'll spread this over a couple posts so I don't lose anything if my computer decides to not cooperate...
I'll start with the parts/tools, they showed up just in time; got home last night and got everything done today.
Here's the torque wrench I bought and the spanner tool:
the spanner was good quality seems like, worked really well and also does work to hold the camshaft pulleys if needed. a few shots of the tool:
here's my parts that showed up; timing belt, no.1 lower cover/gasket and the pulley:
the new pulley (covered in dust...)
I measured the inside diameter of the old and new pulleys to see how much the old one was damaged, there was a pretty big difference
Here's the new one:
and the old one (and bigger)
Anyway, everthing I needed was finally here yesterday and got home last night, started on it late this morning and buttoned everything up by 7pm.
more pics to follow....
I'll start with the parts/tools, they showed up just in time; got home last night and got everything done today.
Here's the torque wrench I bought and the spanner tool:
the spanner was good quality seems like, worked really well and also does work to hold the camshaft pulleys if needed. a few shots of the tool:
here's my parts that showed up; timing belt, no.1 lower cover/gasket and the pulley:
the new pulley (covered in dust...)
I measured the inside diameter of the old and new pulleys to see how much the old one was damaged, there was a pretty big difference
Here's the new one:
and the old one (and bigger)
Anyway, everthing I needed was finally here yesterday and got home last night, started on it late this morning and buttoned everything up by 7pm.
more pics to follow....
11-07-2010, 09:20 PM
#64
first thing I did was change out the thermostat, went super smooth... see the difference between the crappy aftermarket one and the toyota/kuzeh stock thermostat. the toyota one is on the right:
the old thermostat still in, notice the jiggle valve was not installed at the 12 o'clock like it's supposed to be, it's over at about 3 o'clock, probably not a huge deal but ya know....
and another shot of the two thermostats...
as she came off, not too bad! pretty clean inside, some grime outside but not bad
had to pull the AC/bracket off to access the tensioner (I don't have the compression tool), this bolt almost held me up, didn't want to come loose. I did the thermostat while I waited for the penetrating oil to do it's job...
the bracket removed:
and the TB tensioner removed:
spec on this says the protrusion should not be outside of 2.394-2.425", mine was about 2.435" but it will stay for now
the old timing belt removed:
the new timing belt was a geniune Toyota one, very helpful lining up the marks, highly recommend buying a geniune belt. my old one had zero markings on it whatsoever and while you could easily mark the new belt off the old one, the Toyota one was spot on and super easy to line up.
lining up the marks on the pulleys w/ the covers....
oh yeah, used bungee cords to hold the PS pump and AC compressor while they were loose, I left the hoses connected, just removed the electrical connections. worked pretty well.
more to come.....
the old thermostat still in, notice the jiggle valve was not installed at the 12 o'clock like it's supposed to be, it's over at about 3 o'clock, probably not a huge deal but ya know....
and another shot of the two thermostats...
as she came off, not too bad! pretty clean inside, some grime outside but not bad
had to pull the AC/bracket off to access the tensioner (I don't have the compression tool), this bolt almost held me up, didn't want to come loose. I did the thermostat while I waited for the penetrating oil to do it's job...
the bracket removed:
and the TB tensioner removed:
spec on this says the protrusion should not be outside of 2.394-2.425", mine was about 2.435" but it will stay for now
the old timing belt removed:
the new timing belt was a geniune Toyota one, very helpful lining up the marks, highly recommend buying a geniune belt. my old one had zero markings on it whatsoever and while you could easily mark the new belt off the old one, the Toyota one was spot on and super easy to line up.
lining up the marks on the pulleys w/ the covers....
oh yeah, used bungee cords to hold the PS pump and AC compressor while they were loose, I left the hoses connected, just removed the electrical connections. worked pretty well.
more to come.....
11-07-2010, 09:35 PM
#66
and the new belt on all lined up, lower cover w/new gasket already on:
left cam marks.... (a little blurry...)
and the passenger side:
the CS pulley on zero:
fan bracket put back on and AC bracket/AC unit back on:
a shot of the new pulley/bolt, the original problem that started this whole nut roll...
I used a 6pt 19mm socket on the torque wrench and a 1/2" drive ratchet on the tool, used the driver's side frame rail and some 2x4's and some metal shims to block the pulley, pulled the 220 ft/lbs and walllaaa!
Oh yeah, chef you were right, the loctite DID dry on the threads, even sitting in the bag (after it was opened...) put new loctite on there after cleaning the threads, I used roughly the same amount of red (High-strength) loctite, I assume it's close
close to finished:
finished:
another beautiful sight to see.... finally done..!!!!
triple checked all my bolts/connectors and belts then fired her up. started right up and so far is acting/sounding/running completely normal!!! success..... scared to drive it but I know she is buttoned up good. I have dH2O in the radiator right now until I buy more toyota coolant and need to tighten the radiator/fan shroud bolts but she's pretty much good to go. road test tomorrow....
left cam marks.... (a little blurry...)
and the passenger side:
the CS pulley on zero:
fan bracket put back on and AC bracket/AC unit back on:
a shot of the new pulley/bolt, the original problem that started this whole nut roll...
I used a 6pt 19mm socket on the torque wrench and a 1/2" drive ratchet on the tool, used the driver's side frame rail and some 2x4's and some metal shims to block the pulley, pulled the 220 ft/lbs and walllaaa!
Oh yeah, chef you were right, the loctite DID dry on the threads, even sitting in the bag (after it was opened...) put new loctite on there after cleaning the threads, I used roughly the same amount of red (High-strength) loctite, I assume it's close
close to finished:
finished:
another beautiful sight to see.... finally done..!!!!
triple checked all my bolts/connectors and belts then fired her up. started right up and so far is acting/sounding/running completely normal!!! success..... scared to drive it but I know she is buttoned up good. I have dH2O in the radiator right now until I buy more toyota coolant and need to tighten the radiator/fan shroud bolts but she's pretty much good to go. road test tomorrow....
11-07-2010, 09:52 PM
#69
oh yeah sorry, I put the wrong size specs on that TB tensioner protrusion pin; got excited I guess but the last digits are what I was talking about, the manual is outside in my truck, don't feel like looking it up right now. it was just barely out of spec but I will most likely be tearing this thing down completely here in the next 50-60k miles for my turbo build anyway (if she will hold up after this ordeal that is...) it is definetely a 10 year old engine but this is literally the first thing that has ever gone wrong with it minus a TPS that was randomly throwing a CEL but still worked fine...
I used the air compressor a lot today, I used foamy engine bright to scrub the bottom CS timing pulley and inside the crankshaft. after putting the belt on, I turned her a few times and all the marks were lining up again and she runs good so must have got it right. now knowing how easy this was, I won't be visiting a shop for a TB ever again!
I still have an idle problem that I had before due to my inability to connect to my FTC unit, that is the next project so I can smooth out the bottom rpms.. it's smooth but it fluctuates rpm at idle for a little bit, then settles on 700 rpm. occasionally (every 500th time) it will actually die. starts right up again and only happened maybe 5 times over the last few months but it is annoying. Will see how she pulls tomorrow, will take it easy for a bit then wind it up and see if I lost any power or messed anything up. seems fine though...
I used the air compressor a lot today, I used foamy engine bright to scrub the bottom CS timing pulley and inside the crankshaft. after putting the belt on, I turned her a few times and all the marks were lining up again and she runs good so must have got it right. now knowing how easy this was, I won't be visiting a shop for a TB ever again!
I still have an idle problem that I had before due to my inability to connect to my FTC unit, that is the next project so I can smooth out the bottom rpms.. it's smooth but it fluctuates rpm at idle for a little bit, then settles on 700 rpm. occasionally (every 500th time) it will actually die. starts right up again and only happened maybe 5 times over the last few months but it is annoying. Will see how she pulls tomorrow, will take it easy for a bit then wind it up and see if I lost any power or messed anything up. seems fine though...
11-07-2010, 09:56 PM
#70
sounds good vital! we are pretty close, should get together sometime and help each other out, I'm still learning the tuning process. it's not all that difficult but I'm scared to make big changes after my first professional tune that I paid for! I will try to connect to my FTC unit again tomorrow after I run to Toyota for some coolant/road test, and see if I can get in there. my timing map is still zeroed out and the fuel map needs to be tweaked for my custom air intake (that was the cause of my wierd idle issue, extra air)
are you having any problems or just looking for a finer tune?
are you having any problems or just looking for a finer tune?
11-07-2010, 10:02 PM
#71
I'm still running the base tune from urd on it. I suspect since my ecu is from a 97 its having a hard time keeping the long term fuel trim. Not 100 percent on that. Need to call up gadget and see what he says. other wise.. when its right... she pulls hard into 5+ rpms
11-07-2010, 10:06 PM
#72
oh yeah........
and warmed up, still runnin' smooth....
I really hope this thing doesn't grenade again, this was a huge fix for a stupid problem... make sure you CHANGE THE BOLT and TORQUE IT TO SPEC!!!!!! apparently the shop didn't think that necessary, I should have known better... and buy Toyota T-stat/WP, highly recommend the toyota timing belt ($40) and CS bolt at a minimum...
oh yeah, that lower cover, guess what that piece of crap ran?? $40 !!!! rape!!!
I'm going to take the old one and use some epoxy to build it up so it is useable again.
Anyone want a boogered up CS pulley or an old timing belt?? hahahaa!
the more you know, right?! I can't even imagine what this would have cost if I had taken it to a shop. pretty sure I would be thousands of dollars poorer than I am now. start to finish including incidentals/new drive belts, etc.... I'm sitting at about $550 in parts, spent about $165 on tools. still an ouch but I can go in comfort knowing I cleaned and torqued everything down the way it should be now.
and warmed up, still runnin' smooth....
I really hope this thing doesn't grenade again, this was a huge fix for a stupid problem... make sure you CHANGE THE BOLT and TORQUE IT TO SPEC!!!!!! apparently the shop didn't think that necessary, I should have known better... and buy Toyota T-stat/WP, highly recommend the toyota timing belt ($40) and CS bolt at a minimum...
oh yeah, that lower cover, guess what that piece of crap ran?? $40 !!!! rape!!!
I'm going to take the old one and use some epoxy to build it up so it is useable again.
Anyone want a boogered up CS pulley or an old timing belt?? hahahaa!
the more you know, right?! I can't even imagine what this would have cost if I had taken it to a shop. pretty sure I would be thousands of dollars poorer than I am now. start to finish including incidentals/new drive belts, etc.... I'm sitting at about $550 in parts, spent about $165 on tools. still an ouch but I can go in comfort knowing I cleaned and torqued everything down the way it should be now.
11-07-2010, 10:11 PM
#73
ooh! you have LOTS of ponies waiting for you! I ran the base map for about 6 months, ran fine but after I tuned it, it went from 163 rwhp to 227 (just from the fuel map). but like I said, I didn't do that, I paid a hefty chunk o' change (hence the 6 month wait to save up for it) to have her tuned and dyno'ed. At the price I paid though, I will be doing my own tuning from here on out.
do you have a wideband/AFR meter? I just bought an Innovative Motorsports LM-II meter but you will have to put an O2 sensor bung somewhere upstream of your cat to put the sensor itself in. I haven't had a chance to play with mine yet due to my connection issues but it's a must to go along with the R4 software from URD.
We should plan a tuning party.....
11-07-2010, 10:21 PM
#75
here's a link to my 'tuning' thread, it was kinda a 'build' thread really but morphed into 'my ongoing project' thread.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...18/index2.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...18/index2.html
11-07-2010, 10:26 PM
#76
you have the same AFR meter I have sounds like....
I went to Turbo Technologies in Tacoma, they are basically behind the 'Brickhouse' bar/grill just off of South tacoma way and 56th street. EXTREMELY professional IMO, I was expecting to get blown off because I didn't have a 1000hp race car but they were very helpful and knew what they were doing. it took them 5 hours to tune (figure out the R4 software maybe) but when all said and done, the results were phenominal. total tuning and MANY dyno pulls (23 to be exact!!!) and adding an O2 sensor bung, I became $900 poorer but many hp faster. I also buy my methanol from them now also.
I will be using them to fab up a turbo exhaust manifold for my truck next year hopefully...
11-08-2010, 07:48 AM
#78
Registered User
Just want to say congratulations on a job well done and thanks for the pics and write-up. I know how good I felt when I started mine after the TB job. What a lovely sound...
11-08-2010, 09:20 AM
#80
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern Cali
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I ran my 22re for a few years in high school with no pulley bolt! i put a long breaker bar on the cs pulley bolt and put it against the frame rail and have someone hit the starter. kinda scary but it works.
