84runner

My car has been making a "clunking" noise for the past two weeks. It has been progressivly getting worse and worse.

now my 1985 4*4 4 runner will barely move without MASSIVE clunks!.


The clunking sounds JUST like the u joint on the driveshaft, and feels like it too. However, the driveshaft is just fine, and has new u joints already.

A mechanic rode in it, and right away said "transfer case". Does my description sound like a bad transfer case?

If so, how much should i pay for a used one, and are there any better/stronger transfer cases that i can use with minimal custimizations?

thanks in advance for ANY info.

toy283

I'd be more inclined to think differential. Toyota transfer cases are quite strong and problems tend to be few and far between. That said, if it does prove to be the transfer case, used ones will typically run $100-200 or so depending on where you are and where you buy. There really isn't a "stronger/better" option because there doesn't need to be. If you're inclined to tear into yours, I can undoubtedly save you some money as I have a few transfer cases stripped down to parts; an input shaft or whatever will cost you less thean a complete case.

84runner

so when a rear diff is going out,it will clunk like a u joint?(i hope its that!!!)

IF it does turn out to be the transfer case, how difficult are they to tear apart, diagnose, and repair for a novice?

I do 99% of the work on my vehicles, and even built my chevy 350 for my 1956 chevy panel. However, tranny rebuilts scare the Sh#t outa me! Is it as difficult as a tranny rebuild, or less parts?

Thanks again for the reply, and any advice you can offer.

toy283

Toyota transfer cases are downright simple. If you've done an engine, a transfer case will be no big deal. The only thing I can think of in a transfer that might result in your clunking is a broken gear, probably one of those in the low-gear train. Have you tried driving with the transfer case in low gear? Also, is this "clunking" something you hear or feel? Does it change when you shift into 4-hi and 4-lo?

84runner

i can deff. feel and hear it. It shakes the crap outa my truck, and feels like it's going to explode!!

It feels exactly like when my u joint went out, just 100 times louder, and ruffer.

I did try to 4 low without the hubs locked in front, and it did the same thing.

How long would it take to pull the transfer case, and open it up for a first timer?

thanks again. I really appritiate your help!

superjoe83

first, before you tear in to your t-case, i would take off the rear drive shaft, lift the rear wheels off the ground and spin the pinion with your hand, and see if there are any rough spots, if its not there then its got to be in your transmission or t-case, good luck

toy283

One of the benefits of the Toyota design is that you don't even necessarily have to pull it to work on it... if you have enough work space underneath. The transfer case disassembles from the rear so it can be removed as you disassemble it. If you'd rather take it out full and work on a bench that's ok too. All told, I'd give yourself a good full day or even a weekend if you rely on this for daily transportation. While I said I can save you some money by supplying individual parts, most junkyards are not the same way. They will not usually separate a transfer case for parts opting instead to sell the complete thing. If your truck is a daily driver that cannot be down for any length of time, this may be your only option. If you can have it down for a couple weeks or so, I can probably ship you the part you end up needing. There are a few tools you'll need that may not be in your toolbox:

• Impact gun or large ½" drive breaker bar
• 30mm or 1-3/16" socket
• External lock-ring pliers (the kind with a wide, flat tip)
• Hydraulic press for removing some bearings, if needed. A shop can provide this service as needed so don't worry about having one yourself.
• Torque wrench capable of 100ft-lbs

Like said, I would pull the rear diveshaft , jack up the rear wheels and give the differential pinion a spin first. Make sure your problem isn't there before continuing. If that proves to be ok, basic procedure for pulling the t-case is:

• Drain differential and tranny oils.
• Disconnect front and rear driveshafts, speedo cable, and 4WD indicator wire.
• If you have a good impact gun skip you can skip this step. Otherwise, put tranny in 1st gear, transfer case in 4-lo. Unstake the flange nut on both transfer case output flanges. Loosen the flange nuts but do not remove. These nuts are very tight so it'll take quite a bit of effort. They are also standard right-hand thread.
• Remove transfer case shifter
• Remove four transfer case mount bolts from the crossmember. Put a jack under the transmission to support the weight and remove the crossmember.
• Remove the transfer case by removing six bolts just ahead of the transfer case mount. Transfer case weights in around 80lbs or so. It isn't too heavy but don't let it drop. Some prefer to use a jack, I prefer to just crawl under it myself and lower it to my chest then kinda roll over so it's on the ground. Be careful!

All told you should be able to remove the transfer case in about 1-2 hours. Putting it back will take a little longer. Tearing into the transfer case requires a little more detail (I'm working from memory here) and will have to wait for another post if needed.

84runner

you are awesome.

Thank you sooooo much for your time and detailed explanation. I have the impact and everything else except for the press, so i'll try to tackle this one on my own. That was also a great idea about checking the rear diff.

I'll do that, and HOPE its there! If not, t-case here i come!

thanks again.

Gabe

one other thing, I had the same clunk problem at low speeds, turns out it was my worn out BFG M/T's-never figured out why but it sounded like my drive shaft was loose, or my CV's were toast--who knows, bought new tires and the noise was gone...

leiniesred

do you have aftermarket rear suspension? If you are using a bolt or greasable pin in the rear spring hangers instead of the stockers, it is likely that the bolt or pin can MOVE instead of the bushing. This will wear a groove in the bolt or wallow out the hole in the spring hangers in just a couple of years. Under throttle, the torque will slam worn out bolt or hole around yeilding a tasty KLUNK. Best clunks are achieved after hard braking which can lever the bolt into the "low" position before the axle wrap slams the bolt into the HIGH position.

I'd jack it up and pull those bolts/pins before going deep in the T-case or axle. Look for a broken leaf in your spring pack while you are down there too.

I found my fancy-pants greasable pins cut 1/2 way through in about 2 years. I think my 9/16ths bolts are trashing the holes in the spring hanger too. I can see where the washer MOVES! (I welded the washer to the hanger so the bolt now has to wear out the washers too.) gonna tack the head of the bolt to keep it from moving. cheby 63" swap here I come.