The cheapest/easiest way to do the ISR on a 3.slow...
#1
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The cheapest/easiest way to do the ISR on a 3.slow...
I've been researching some stuff and I think I've come up with the easiest and cheapest way to do the ISR mod on a 3.0. I initially found some intake tube couplers at an import shop for $10 a pop. Well that's just too expensive. So I looked some more and found some different one's a Autozone for $5 a piece. Now that's what I'm talking about. So far you should only need one because you can turn the air tube coming off the TB sideways and extend the PCV hose with 1/2" fuel line.
The next thing to tackle is the intake tube itself. Now you only need a 22.5 degree bend to meet up with your original tube coming off the TB. I talked to a guy at Midas (you could probably get it cheaper somewhere else) and he said the most expensive part is the bending of the pipe. He was saying it probably wouldn't be more than $25 for a piece of pipe and 2 bends. Well now we've cut the piece of pipe down to maybe a 1 ft. long and one bend.
The next thing that would have to be taken care of is the other PCV line. Some people have expressed worries about the nut on the inside of the 3/8" brass fitting coming off and going down the intake. Right now I can think of two ways to solve this problem.
1. Use the really strong locktite with the nut and RTV or silicone on the inside and outside to seal it. Or...
2. Just use JB weld on the outside to seal it and hold it in place. JB weld is some pretty powerful stuff. By using a decent amount on a clean surface, I think it would hold just fine. There really isn't any stress being put on the fitting. I don't know if there would be any problems with using it with brass but I wouldn't think so.
Here's what I've come up with so far. I'm pretty swamped with school work right now but I'll try to get to Autozone in the next week and get some pipe cut too.
Let me know what you think.
:bounce2:
The next thing to tackle is the intake tube itself. Now you only need a 22.5 degree bend to meet up with your original tube coming off the TB. I talked to a guy at Midas (you could probably get it cheaper somewhere else) and he said the most expensive part is the bending of the pipe. He was saying it probably wouldn't be more than $25 for a piece of pipe and 2 bends. Well now we've cut the piece of pipe down to maybe a 1 ft. long and one bend.
The next thing that would have to be taken care of is the other PCV line. Some people have expressed worries about the nut on the inside of the 3/8" brass fitting coming off and going down the intake. Right now I can think of two ways to solve this problem.
1. Use the really strong locktite with the nut and RTV or silicone on the inside and outside to seal it. Or...
2. Just use JB weld on the outside to seal it and hold it in place. JB weld is some pretty powerful stuff. By using a decent amount on a clean surface, I think it would hold just fine. There really isn't any stress being put on the fitting. I don't know if there would be any problems with using it with brass but I wouldn't think so.
Here's what I've come up with so far. I'm pretty swamped with school work right now but I'll try to get to Autozone in the next week and get some pipe cut too.
Let me know what you think.
:bounce2:
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I can see why you couldn't drill the holes to the proper size and use PCV grommets and the plastic PCV fittings for the hook ups. They seal air tight!! Just a thought!!
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I haven't really studied the intake yet but the last time I took off my air flow meter the opening seemed very small. Wouldn't that be more of a bottle neck for the air flow than the intake tube? Have you guys gone to a bigger air flow meter? I'm new at this engine mod stuff so maybe I'm way off base here.
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
I haven't really studied the intake yet but the last time I took off my air flow meter the opening seemed very small. Wouldn't that be more of a bottle neck for the air flow than the intake tube? Have you guys gone to a bigger air flow meter? I'm new at this engine mod stuff so maybe I'm way off base here.
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The early '82 AFM (part #22250-43110) will bolt right up to the 22RE w/ no problems or need to change over electronics (3.0 AFM the same?). The voltage was reversed on the early '82 AFM's making it plug and play. It will run leaner due to more air getting in, which proves it flowing better, it just has to be readjusted to richen it up.
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