capacitors
#3
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Those are usually used on bass amps only. They help deliver juice quicker than a battery can. The value you need is directly related to the watts you are pumping to the subs.
#4
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Since u running 3 amps i would suggest a highoutput alternator.but if u need a quick fix for flickering lights get the cap.I just put a digital cap in my ride it was an easy install.
#5
The general rule of thumb regarding Stiffening Capacitors is 100,000 uF per 100 Watts. For instance, if you have 500 watts total power, then you want a 500,000 uF or 1/2 Farad Cap. If you have 1000 Watts, then you want a 1 Farad Cap.
Hope this helps.
Dr. Z
Hope this helps.
Dr. Z
#6
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fwiw... Be careful working with high capcity caps like this.
Like was mentioned above, the reason that you want them in the audio system is that they can deliver impulse current faster than a battery can. That will give you a "tighter" bass response.
But... When you wire them up, be VERY VERY sure that nothing can short them out. As well, be sure that you don't lean across them or somehow get your body in the discharge path when they're charged. The quick impulse response of a cap translates to a LOT of current - and in electricity, it's not the voltage that kills you, it's the current.
For example, you can survive a smack from a spark plug wire - that's high voltage, but low current. Depending on the current path, you may NOT survive a smack from a charged 1 farad capacitor, even if it's "just" 12 volts.
Like was mentioned above, the reason that you want them in the audio system is that they can deliver impulse current faster than a battery can. That will give you a "tighter" bass response.
But... When you wire them up, be VERY VERY sure that nothing can short them out. As well, be sure that you don't lean across them or somehow get your body in the discharge path when they're charged. The quick impulse response of a cap translates to a LOT of current - and in electricity, it's not the voltage that kills you, it's the current.
For example, you can survive a smack from a spark plug wire - that's high voltage, but low current. Depending on the current path, you may NOT survive a smack from a charged 1 farad capacitor, even if it's "just" 12 volts.
#7
Yeah, 1 Farad x 12V = 12 Amps of Current capacity. That's a lot of electrons.
The instructions that come with the better, brand name Caps usually outline this kind of information. But be extra careful anyway.
Peace!
Dr. Z
The instructions that come with the better, brand name Caps usually outline this kind of information. But be extra careful anyway.
Peace!
Dr. Z
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#8
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Also, try to get a regular cap. Not to burst A+'s bubble, but the digital voltmeters built into the top of those caps cause resistance, which kind of defeats the purpose of the cap. I don't know exactly how much resistance, but I figure for this application, the more free flowing, the better.
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Originally posted by DuB
Also, try to get a regular cap. Not to burst A+'s bubble, but the digital voltmeters built into the top of those caps cause resistance, which kind of defeats the purpose of the cap. I don't know exactly how much resistance, but I figure for this application, the more free flowing, the better.
Also, try to get a regular cap. Not to burst A+'s bubble, but the digital voltmeters built into the top of those caps cause resistance, which kind of defeats the purpose of the cap. I don't know exactly how much resistance, but I figure for this application, the more free flowing, the better.
#11
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Caps have been HOTLY debated in Db Drag Racing, where the main goal is spl. (as loud as you can get.)
Capacitors are only designed to deliver a surge of power on demand for a quick bass transient. If you ask any more than about 0.2 seconds of current, the cap becomes fully discharged and merely becomes a drain on the electrical system as well - thus lowering your voltage farther and reducing scores. That's the case about 98% of the time.
If you are experiencing voltage problems where you voltage drops below 12.5v, your best (and most expensive ) bet is to go with a Hi output alternator. The second best bet is to add batteries so that the voltage "floor" is higher when there is an extreme demand for current. The 3rd and generally scoffed at option are caps.
I would avoid wasting the money on them until you get the voltage problem fixed first, THEN get the cap(s) to help the bass during initial attack.
Adding caps to help sagging voltage is a band-aid fix at best and is analogous to having serious ignition coil problems and instead of fixing the coil, you replace the plugs with splitfires or bosch 4+'s expecting a huge improvement.
Add a hi amp alt, then add a cap for your bass amp to improve the sq (sound quality.)
Weather or not it will be a noticable difference in sq will depend upon a lot of things, but most say it does nothing for the sq again much like those bosch 4+ platinums...
(yeah i run the 4+'s and have been wondering if they were worth the 6$/plug price)
steve
Capacitors are only designed to deliver a surge of power on demand for a quick bass transient. If you ask any more than about 0.2 seconds of current, the cap becomes fully discharged and merely becomes a drain on the electrical system as well - thus lowering your voltage farther and reducing scores. That's the case about 98% of the time.
If you are experiencing voltage problems where you voltage drops below 12.5v, your best (and most expensive ) bet is to go with a Hi output alternator. The second best bet is to add batteries so that the voltage "floor" is higher when there is an extreme demand for current. The 3rd and generally scoffed at option are caps.
I would avoid wasting the money on them until you get the voltage problem fixed first, THEN get the cap(s) to help the bass during initial attack.
Adding caps to help sagging voltage is a band-aid fix at best and is analogous to having serious ignition coil problems and instead of fixing the coil, you replace the plugs with splitfires or bosch 4+'s expecting a huge improvement.
Add a hi amp alt, then add a cap for your bass amp to improve the sq (sound quality.)
Weather or not it will be a noticable difference in sq will depend upon a lot of things, but most say it does nothing for the sq again much like those bosch 4+ platinums...
(yeah i run the 4+'s and have been wondering if they were worth the 6$/plug price)
steve
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 03-03-2003 at 09:25 AM.
#12
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Originally posted by Shane
Still hurts like a &@#%$ tho'
Still hurts like a &@#%$ tho'
#13
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Let's just say it felt like someone shoved a red hot rod up my arm from hand to elbow. My arm was tingling for a good 30 minutes afterwards but no burns thankfully.
Hurts more than 110vAC, but don't ask how I know...
Hurts more than 110vAC, but don't ask how I know...
#14
Re: capacitors
Originally posted by C2damuthafuqinLO
If i go with a setup that contains 3 amps... is it recommended that i buy a capacitor???
If i go with a setup that contains 3 amps... is it recommended that i buy a capacitor???
I didn't take the time to read the rest of the responses, but.....
A capacitor is just a band-aid. It will never fix any electrical issues you have, it will merely cover them up, and could make your system perform worse if it sucks enough energy to charge. What you should do is either get an optima blue (yes they are for marine but they will work as a starter + they are deep cycle + have more power than yellows) or a dual battery setup (use 2 of the exact same batteries, same age, same amps, even better if you can get two off the same pallet)
#15
Originally posted by Dr. Zhivago
Yeah, 1 Farad x 12V = 12 Amps of Current capacity. That's a lot of electrons.
The instructions that come with the better, brand name Caps usually outline this kind of information. But be extra careful anyway.
Peace!
Dr. Z
Yeah, 1 Farad x 12V = 12 Amps of Current capacity. That's a lot of electrons.
The instructions that come with the better, brand name Caps usually outline this kind of information. But be extra careful anyway.
Peace!
Dr. Z
Oh, they may come with instructions, but 90% of caps are all made by the same manufacturer, which I believe is Lightning Audio. So just get the cheapest Lightning audio, and it will be the same as a Rockford Fosgate or Kicker or whatever.
#16
Registered User
Originally posted by Los Gatos?
Oh, they may come with instructions, but 90% of caps are all made by the same manufacturer, which I believe is Lightning Audio. So just get the cheapest Lightning audio, and it will be the same as a Rockford Fosgate or Kicker or whatever.
Oh, they may come with instructions, but 90% of caps are all made by the same manufacturer, which I believe is Lightning Audio. So just get the cheapest Lightning audio, and it will be the same as a Rockford Fosgate or Kicker or whatever.
**cough**...Rockford Fosgate owns (like is the parent company of) Lightning Audio...**cough**
They also are the parent company for MB Quart
Just like how DEI purchased PPI, Orion, and A/D/S/
If you must get a cap, get the one with the lowest EGR and highest voltage/surge voltage rating you can find. Also do not pay any more than 50bux for a 1farad new otherwise you are getting butt-raped.
steve
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 03-03-2003 at 09:47 AM.
#17
Originally posted by Shane
Let's just say it felt like someone shoved a red hot rod up my arm from hand to elbow. My arm was tingling for a good 30 minutes afterwards but no burns thankfully.
Hurts more than 110vAC, but don't ask how I know...
Let's just say it felt like someone shoved a red hot rod up my arm from hand to elbow. My arm was tingling for a good 30 minutes afterwards but no burns thankfully.
Hurts more than 110vAC, but don't ask how I know...
I had a '68 Chevelle with a 327 at the time, and we all took out our distibutors that evening to learn about them, then put them back.
I touched a plug wire by accident while timing the distributor, and yes, it about knocked me on my keester.
It's a lot of juice and feels like the flesh inside of your whole arm is moving back & forth.
Worse than an electric fence, as I have been shocked by them also.
But back to the cap, I don't run one on my system, and I have tight bass.
I run two RF amps.
A 200a4 for the two door speakers unbridged, and a 500a2 bridged for one 15" sub.
System plays loud, and my lights don't flicker with big bass passeges.
I'm running the stock alternator and with a "copy" of a red top Optima sold by Les Schwab.
#19
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Another Idea
As has been mentioned 10000 times already, capacitors are for bass -- quick surges of power. I am running 3 amps with a maximum of 3000 watts and I considered a capacitor at one time. I was running off of my stock battery, but at night my headlights dimmed when the bass hit. Also, if your amps are near the wattage of mine, it WILL screw up your alternator after a while unless there is a bigger power pool. I waited until my 4Runner frequently wouldn't start. After one time when it was freezing and raining outside and I had to jump the truck I was fed up. I'd definately suggest getting another battery. Make sure to get a DRY CELL BATTERY though if it's inside your 4Runner. Wet cell ones will be very hazardous and can explode, leak, etc. I got an Optima Red Top for about $120. I think they have them at Advanced Auto Parts, but I doubt they'd have them at Wal-Mart. They're the best batteries around, and they're dry cell. Don't do this, but just to show you their durability, a friend of mine (a redneck, yes) shot the corner off of one with a 9mm and it still worked! Also, you can mount them any which way you want. Upside down, sideways... They're nice too -- they come with a carrying strap, stand, and also they have 2 possible ways to connect them, with safety capt of course. Definately recommended if you want to spend the money. My headlights don't dim now and the car starts very strong. Sound system has no problems now either, and I'm glad I spent the money. Wet-cell batteries are cheaper if you want to try to find some space in your engine bay, but if you're putting it inside, get a dry cell.
Zach
Zach
#20
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Capacitors are a waste of money, they fix very few problems if any. Even if they do fix them the can cause unnessacry strain on your alternator, which is the problem in the first place. The only sure way to fix a problem like this is to get a highoutput alterantor. A red top battery would be a good idea to. But def a new alternator is needed. Ive gone throught this all before myself dont bother with the capacitors.
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