A/C blowing fuses? What could it be?
06-15-2010, 04:06 PM
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A/C blowing fuses? What could it be?
I have a 97 4runner SR5 V6 auto and last night about 2 miles from the house the A/C light goes off on the switch and the cold air stops! I found out that fuse 9 under the hood is blowing out. I put a new one in but same thing 10amp fuses just keep popping when i kick the A/C on. I did try to see what a 15amp fuses would do and well it doesn't blow! (don't worry i was making sure not to burn it up) What i noticed is the motor kicks up the RPMs to get ready for the extra load. The A/C compressor front doesn't turn the same speed as the belt does and there is no cold air.
I don't know what to think. I checked the belt and it is tight.
Could it be the clutches gone out in the compressor? Or is there a solenoid (if there is one) that is bad that doesn't let the clutches kick in and there fore its shorting out and making my 10amp fuse blow? I don't know that much about how this A/C unit works any help would be great!
I don't know what to think. I checked the belt and it is tight.
Could it be the clutches gone out in the compressor? Or is there a solenoid (if there is one) that is bad that doesn't let the clutches kick in and there fore its shorting out and making my 10amp fuse blow? I don't know that much about how this A/C unit works any help would be great!
06-15-2010, 04:46 PM
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Unplug the A/C compressor clutch wire and replace fuse and turn on A/C. If it does not blow, it is not anything in the wiring to the compressor. If it blows without the compressor plugged in you are going to have to check wiring and components from the compressor back. Wiring diagrams show two types. Manual A/C system and auto climate control on the 4runner. Climate control has more electrical items than manual type. Unless I am looking at wrong year. I would assume clutch bad.
Last edited by Thelast83inNJ; 06-15-2010 at 05:08 PM.
06-15-2010, 04:50 PM
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Ok Is the wire pretty easy to get to from the bottom? I've already got the skid plate off. And does anyone know if i have to replace the whole unit or can i just replace the clutches?
06-15-2010, 04:59 PM
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Nobody really replaces just the clutch they replace the whole compressor. Sometimes you must remove the compressor just to work on the clutch with special tools that nobody has. Hows our fuse situation?
06-15-2010, 05:07 PM
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get off at 5:30am. I'm sure the wire is just a connector you pull off the compressor right? As in I can't miss it!?
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06-16-2010, 12:06 AM
#8
I guess I should have had the user name of nobody.
I have changed a few compressor clutches over the years. As for special tools nothing I didn`t have at the time. As for cost it is much cheaper IF that is the only problem.
Then again if you are unsure of this by all means get help
I have changed a few compressor clutches over the years. As for special tools nothing I didn`t have at the time. As for cost it is much cheaper IF that is the only problem.
Then again if you are unsure of this by all means get help
06-16-2010, 07:29 AM
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Usually you have to remove the compressor to swap the clutch & coil (we did at Honda). This means you will have to evacuate the refrigerant and recharge it. As for the compressor, from your initial post it seems your compressor is working so there really is no need to replace it, but when you remove the refirgerant lines, replace the o-rings. The clutch & coil will cost about 1/4 of what a compressor will assuming you get one from toyota.
06-16-2010, 02:51 PM
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Ok so today I pulled off the wire to the compressor located on top in a not so great place to get too! Glad thats finally over but I put the 10amp fuse back in and with the compressor unplugged the light stayed on the motor RPM's increased and the fuse didn't blow!!!
I'm thinking that the compressor is fine due to the AC was very cold before. It has been making some noise but its like the belt was slipping. It was a very high pitch screech. So i'm going to replace just the clutched due to i don't want to mess with the compressor, seals, and coolant. What do you guys think?
It would blow 10 amp fuses all day but wouldn't blow the 15amp fuses.
Also after i connected the wire i did test to see if it would blow a 10 amp fuse again and yes it did!
I'm thinking that the compressor is fine due to the AC was very cold before. It has been making some noise but its like the belt was slipping. It was a very high pitch screech. So i'm going to replace just the clutched due to i don't want to mess with the compressor, seals, and coolant. What do you guys think?
It would blow 10 amp fuses all day but wouldn't blow the 15amp fuses.
Also after i connected the wire i did test to see if it would blow a 10 amp fuse again and yes it did!
06-17-2010, 10:26 AM
#12
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You can do just the clutch and bearing since it's your vehicle. I've been burned enough on customers' cars that I can't attempt to save them money on repairs. Once you touch it, it's your fault. If you have enough room in the engine compartment to remove the clutch without discharging and removing compressor, go ahead. Its ok to let it hang on the hoses if that helps for room. I don't know it you need a special puller.
06-17-2010, 02:59 PM
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Well I got the front of the clutch off and getting ready to pull the snap ring but the clutch dust is so caked on there i can't get it scrapped off! Looks like i'll be pulling the radiator tomorrow to get crap dug out to get to the first snap right to get the pull off the compressor. Any suggestions of how to get the crap off the best?
06-17-2010, 04:07 PM
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It looks like to me (now I maybe wrong) that you need to be careful in scraping/chiseling/digging off the crap because (I think) that the snap ring sits on the compressor snout groove. (the large diameter). Is there a washer inside the clutch recess? If there is, don't lose it. It sets the clearance between the clutch and coil. This melted metal will have to be cleaned off because it will hold off the clutch. Pick set, tiny screwdriver, patience. It will take some time to scrape off. This is why I suggested complete unit. I will follow.
07-18-2010, 06:26 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a.../#post51501676
Just get a new clutch bearing, 52mmx30mmx22mm I believe. I found one on ebay for $19.00.
Another thought, all that gunk in there is most likely the epoxy substance that is used to seal the coil of wires in the clutch coil. The bearing went bad, and I suspect that the entire assembly started spinning on the shaft creating alot of heat. A theory is that enough heat was generated to melt the "varnish" on the wires that form the coil and that created a dead short. I also found a new clutch coil on ebay for $19.00. So basically a new clutch for $38.00.
I had the size of the bearing wrong: I have edited and fixed that mistake. The correct size is in fact 52mm (od) 30mm(id) 22mm (height), Originally posted 20mm.
Just get a new clutch bearing, 52mmx30mmx22mm I believe. I found one on ebay for $19.00.
Another thought, all that gunk in there is most likely the epoxy substance that is used to seal the coil of wires in the clutch coil. The bearing went bad, and I suspect that the entire assembly started spinning on the shaft creating alot of heat. A theory is that enough heat was generated to melt the "varnish" on the wires that form the coil and that created a dead short. I also found a new clutch coil on ebay for $19.00. So basically a new clutch for $38.00.
I had the size of the bearing wrong: I have edited and fixed that mistake. The correct size is in fact 52mm (od) 30mm(id) 22mm (height), Originally posted 20mm.
Last edited by skyratcalls; 07-19-2010 at 05:49 AM.
07-19-2010, 03:55 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a.../#post51501676
Just get a new clutch bearing, 52mmx30mmx20mm I believe. I found one on ebay for $19.00.
Another thought, all that gunk in there is most likely the epoxy substance that is used to seal the coil of wires in the clutch coil. The bearing went bad, and I suspect that the entire assembly started spinning on the shaft creating alot of heat. A theory is that enough heat was generated to melt the "varnish" on the wires that form the coil and that created a dead short. I also found a new clutch coil on ebay for $19.00. So basically a new clutch for $38.00.
Just get a new clutch bearing, 52mmx30mmx20mm I believe. I found one on ebay for $19.00.
Another thought, all that gunk in there is most likely the epoxy substance that is used to seal the coil of wires in the clutch coil. The bearing went bad, and I suspect that the entire assembly started spinning on the shaft creating alot of heat. A theory is that enough heat was generated to melt the "varnish" on the wires that form the coil and that created a dead short. I also found a new clutch coil on ebay for $19.00. So basically a new clutch for $38.00.
07-27-2017, 11:27 AM
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I have a 97 4runner SR5 V6 auto and last night about 2 miles from the house the A/C light goes off on the switch and the cold air stops! I found out that fuse 9 under the hood is blowing out. I put a new one in but same thing 10amp fuses just keep popping when i kick the A/C on. I did try to see what a 15amp fuses would do and well it doesn't blow! (don't worry i was making sure not to burn it up) What i noticed is the motor kicks up the RPMs to get ready for the extra load. The A/C compressor front doesn't turn the same speed as the belt does and there is no cold air.
I don't know what to think. I checked the belt and it is tight.
Could it be the clutches gone out in the compressor? Or is there a solenoid (if there is one) that is bad that doesn't let the clutches kick in and there fore its shorting out and making my 10amp fuse blow? I don't know that much about how this A/C unit works any help would be great!
I don't know what to think. I checked the belt and it is tight.
Could it be the clutches gone out in the compressor? Or is there a solenoid (if there is one) that is bad that doesn't let the clutches kick in and there fore its shorting out and making my 10amp fuse blow? I don't know that much about how this A/C unit works any help would be great!
