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Bleeding question

Old 02-17-2005, 10:41 PM
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Bleeding question

Hi,
I just finished installing my SS brake lines and bleeding the brakes with my motive power bleeder. According to writeups found on this site, it says to basically leave the valve open until you dont see anymore bubbles in the line. Do bubbles mean ALL bubbles? Even the little tiny bubbles? There were a few valves that had tiny bubbles coming out of it for the longest time, i was almost running out of fluid (i got the big bottle).
Or is the important thing that i get all the big bubbles out?
I just want to make sure i did it right.
When i took it out for a test drive, the brakes seemed ok... but again i'm paranoid and i dont know what driving around with SS brake lines feels like.

thanks
Old 02-17-2005, 11:01 PM
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The SS brake lines won't make any difference in your brake feel unless your old hoses were swelling up...LOL. But, you need to get ALL of the bubbles out. Pump and hold method works good. Borrow your GF, neighbor, kid, whomever. Also, tap on the calipers (and wheel cylinders if you got'em) with a wrench to break the bubbles loose and work their way to the top easier.

For future reference. When pouring in the fluid into the master cylinder, pour it like a beer if you can or use a funnel. Keeps bubbles to a minimum. Also, just let it sit for a minute or two to let the bubble rise to the top naturally. My 2 cents.

-Wrench
Old 02-17-2005, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wrenchmonster
The SS brake lines won't make any difference in your brake feel unless your old hoses were swelling up...LOL. But, you need to get ALL of the bubbles out. Pump and hold method works good. Borrow your GF, neighbor, kid, whomever. Also, tap on the calipers (and wheel cylinders if you got'em) with a wrench to break the bubbles loose and work their way to the top easier.

For future reference. When pouring in the fluid into the master cylinder, pour it like a beer if you can or use a funnel. Keeps bubbles to a minimum. Also, just let it sit for a minute or two to let the bubble rise to the top naturally. My 2 cents.

-Wrench
WHAAAT? Really? So i pretty much wasted my money on those SS lines? DAAAH!!
As for the bubbles... really? Even all the little tiny ones? hmm... i need more brake fluid then. I went to autozone and bought one of those big bottles of synthetic brake fluid. I guess i need to go back tomorrow and bleed some more then. I mean... the truck is driveable... but guess more flushing/bleeding is needed.

By the way, what's the pump and hold method? I've been using the motive power bleeder. Is that the same thing?

thanks
Old 02-18-2005, 03:59 AM
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i found if you put a hose over the bleeder valves and run the brake fluid into a cup you can just re-use it instead of wasteing it all.
Old 02-18-2005, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 85TurboRunner
i found if you put a hose over the bleeder valves and run the brake fluid into a cup you can just re-use it instead of wasteing it all.
Brake fluid is cheap. Don't reuse it. You don't want any contaminants in the stuff that is supposed to save your life.
Old 02-18-2005, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by gwhayduke
Brake fluid is cheap. Don't reuse it. You don't want any contaminants in the stuff that is supposed to save your life.
I wasn't going to reuse it. I reason i bought the big bottle was so that i could flush out the system while i was at it since it's never been flushed since it was new. I guess i will have to go out and buy another bottle to get ALL of the bubbles out. Even the little tiny ones.

thanks
Old 02-18-2005, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Alin10123
By the way, what's the pump and hold method? I've been using the motive power bleeder. Is that the same thing?

thanks

The pump and hold method is the old tried and true method of bleeding hydraulic systems. You have someone pump the pedal 10x's and hold it to the floor, while you crack the bleed screw, peat and repeat. Over and Over at each wheel until all of the system is bleed out. The power bleeder takes the place of a person pumping by putting pressure at the top of the resevoir and pushing everything down stream, allowing one person to do all of the work.
Old 02-18-2005, 10:34 AM
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Use a clear piece of tubing on the bleeder screw, it makes it easier to see any bubbles in the system (make sure to keep the hose submerged in fluid in a bottle or cup). Yes, you do want to get all the bubbles out so take your time doing it. You should only see bubble only for a little bit if at all and if you keep seeing them it may be that you have the bleeder screw open too far and air is getting in at the threads (you only need to open it enough to get fluid out). I wouldn't reuse brake fluid unless you have no other choice (ie sunday night, need to get to work on Mon, type of deal).
Old 02-18-2005, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
Use a clear piece of tubing on the bleeder screw, it makes it easier to see any bubbles in the system (make sure to keep the hose submerged in fluid in a bottle or cup). Yes, you do want to get all the bubbles out so take your time doing it. You should only see bubble only for a little bit if at all and if you keep seeing them it may be that you have the bleeder screw open too far and air is getting in at the threads (you only need to open it enough to get fluid out). I wouldn't reuse brake fluid unless you have no other choice (ie sunday night, need to get to work on Mon, type of deal).
Hmm... i think you may have something there. I did open a few of the brake bleed valves a little more than i should have.
Yes, i did use a clear hose on the valve.
Do i have to leave it submerged in the fluid? really? how come?
Old 02-18-2005, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Alin10123
Hmm... i think you may have something there. I did open a few of the brake bleed valves a little more than i should have.
Yes, i did use a clear hose on the valve.
Do i have to leave it submerged in the fluid? really? how come?
Submerging the hose in fluid keeps the system from sucking air back in, like if you were doing the old method and your partner let the pedal up before you tightened the bleed screw.

You should only open the bleed screw enough that fluid starts to come out of it, like MTL said.
Old 02-18-2005, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Alin10123
Do i have to leave it submerged in the fluid? really? how come?
It is not as critical since you are using a power bleeder but it is good practice anyway.
If you were using the old pedal pump method, it is a must to prevent air getting sucked back into the system.
Old 02-18-2005, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Alin10123
I went to autozone and bought one of those big bottles of synthetic brake fluid.

By the way, what's the pump and hold method? I've been using the motive power bleeder. Is that the same thing?

thanks
When you say you got synthetic brake fluid, what is the DOT number on that and do you have an ABS system?

The Motive power bleeder is the very best way to flush your brakes. Do not ever let anyone talk you into using the pedal pump method over the power bleeder.

Gadget
Old 02-18-2005, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Gadget
When you say you got synthetic brake fluid, what is the DOT number on that and do you have an ABS system?

The Motive power bleeder is the very best way to flush your brakes. Do not ever let anyone talk you into using the pedal pump method over the power bleeder.

Gadget
According to the label. It's called "Valvoline Synpower ABS Synthetic DOT 3 & DOT 4 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid". In the description it talks about exceeding Dot 4 federal specifications.

Am i using the right stuff? Here's a pic of it.





When i was bleeding/flushing, i bought a big 32oz bottle of that stuff. I was afraid i was going to run out of fluid and yet there were still tiny bubbles in the line. I actually did run out of fluid right when i finished.

Am i doing this right? Should it take that much fluid to get all the bubbles out?

thanks
Old 02-18-2005, 03:57 PM
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DOT 3 or 4 is fine but DOT 5 is not!....that is silicone fluid and does not mix with other types.

You are doing fine with using the power bleeder and I would just be careful with the bleeder screws (I bet that is where the little bubbles are coming from). It should not take too long to get them all out but if the air is leaking in at the bleeders, it will look like you never got all the air out of the system.
Old 02-18-2005, 04:06 PM
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Ok, credit to other peoples posts. Here are my additions, take 'em or leave 'em. Pump and hold: One person "pumps" the pedeal to build pressure in the system. Then "holds" as the other person opens up the bleeders. The person opening the bleeder will make the play calls. Now, the person inside will still be holding the pedal in the down position until the bleeder is closed. Once the bleeder is closed then the pedal can be relased and pumping up to build pressure can resume and the cycle starts over again. Clear tube in fluid a good idea.

Now, a few tips. Make sure when you fill the resovoir that the cap goes back on before pumping up the pedal. Check it throughout the process so that the fluid level never gets too low. Also, you can put some vaseline or grease around the base of the bleeders to prevent air getting past the threads while bleeding. And most importantly, there is a correct pattern to follow. Your bleeding pattern is as follows: RR, LR, RF, LF. Remember the right side is the passengers side. Basically you are starting from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and progressively getting closer.

As far as pressure bleeding is concerned, yes it is the preferred method. But it's not necessary. You can get just as good a pedal with the pump and hold method as with any other.

-Wrench
Old 02-18-2005, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Alin10123
According to the label. It's called "Valvoline Synpower ABS Synthetic DOT 3 & DOT 4 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid". In the description it talks about exceeding Dot 4 federal specifications.

Am i using the right stuff? Here's a pic of it.





When i was bleeding/flushing, i bought a big 32oz bottle of that stuff. I was afraid i was going to run out of fluid and yet there were still tiny bubbles in the line. I actually did run out of fluid right when i finished.

Am i doing this right? Should it take that much fluid to get all the bubbles out?

thanks
That fluid is fine. Just wanted to make sure you did not have silicone fluid.

Yes, use the power bleeder and get all the bubbles out. That is the whole point of bleeding.

When I flush my brakes, I do all my vehicles at the same time and use about a gal and half of fluid. You want to keep a good amount in the power bleeder tank and a good amount will be dumped out when you are done.

You never want to save, reuse, or anything like that with brake fluid. Always make sure you use stuff with a factory seal on the container. If you have a bottle that is half full when you are done, in the trash it goes. I keep big and little sealed bottles on hand.

Gadget
Old 02-18-2005, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gadget
That fluid is fine. Just wanted to make sure you did not have silicone fluid.

Yes, use the power bleeder and get all the bubbles out. That is the whole point of bleeding.

When I flush my brakes, I do all my vehicles at the same time and use about a gal and half of fluid. You want to keep a good amount in the power bleeder tank and a good amount will be dumped out when you are done.

You never want to save, reuse, or anything like that with brake fluid. Always make sure you use stuff with a factory seal on the container. If you have a bottle that is half full when you are done, in the trash it goes. I keep big and little sealed bottles on hand.

Gadget

Thanks for everybodys input. I went out today and bought another 32 oz bottle of brake fluid and i'm going to try this again over the weekend.

This time i'll be sure to open the bleeder screws just enough to get the fluid flowing.

thanks again, i'll let you guys know how it goes.
Old 02-21-2005, 05:03 PM
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Ok... update... i redid the flush this time and this time i opened the bleeder screws just enough to get the fluid flowing and it seemed to help. I also adjust the parking brake tighter and then pulled it a few times to adjust the drums in the back properly. The braking seems a whole lot tighter now.

thanks for your help guys!
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